THEIR  OPERATION.USE  AND  CARE 


VERRILL 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 

THEIR  OPERATION,  USE  AND  CARE 

A  COMPREHENSIVE,  SIMPLE  AND  PRACTICAL  WORK 

Treating  of  Gasolene  Engines  for  Stationary,  Marine  or 
Vehicle  Use.  Their  Construction,  Design,  Management, 
Care,  Operation,  Repair,  Installation  and  Troubles. 

Written  especially  for  the  Owner,  Operator  or  Purchaser 
of  Gasolene  Motors  who  is  unfamiliar  with  Technicalities 
and  is  not  a  mechanic  or  engineer.  A  book  that  is  indis- 
pensable to  the  Amateur  and  of  value  to  the  Professional. 

Containing  also  a  complete  table  of  Motor  Troubles  and 
Remedies  and  a  full  Glossary  of  Technical  Terms  used  in 
Connection  with  Gasolene  Engines. 


By  A.  HYATT  VERRILL 


Fully  Illustrated  n£*tk  1^2  Original  Engravings 


NEW  YORK 

THE  NORMAN  W.  HENLEY  PUBLISHING  CO. 

132  NASSAU  STREET 

1912 


/ 


COPYRIGHTED    1912 

BY 
THE  NORMAN  W.   HENLEY  PUBLISHING  Co. 


Composition,  Electrotyping  and  Printing 
by  the  Publishers  Printing  Co.,  New  York 


TABLE    OF   CONTENTS 

PAGE 

INTRODUCTION         »       .»        .  "  '•-..  • :     .        .        .        .        .        9 
CHAPTER   I 

Types  of  Motors.     Operation  of  Two-cycle  Motor.     Operation 

of  Four-cycle   Motor 15 

CHAPTER   II 

Various  Designs,  Makes,  and  Forms  of  Two-cycle  Motors. 
Three-port  Motors.  Combination  and  Four-port  Motors. 
Open-base  and  Distributor-valve  Motors.  Multiple- 
cylinder  Two-cycle  Motors  .  .  .  .  .  32 

CHAPTER   III 

Various  Forms,  Designs,  and  Variations  of  Four-cycle  Motors. 
Valves  and  their  Operation.  Valve  Mechanisms  and 
Motions.  Automatic  and  Mechanically-operated  Valves. 
Sleeve-valve  and  Rotary-valve  Motors.  Opposed-cylinder 
and  Offset-crank  Motors,  Freak  Motors,  and  Horizontal 
Motors  ....  .-.  .  .  .  .  .  54 

CHAPTER   IV 

Parts  of  Two-cycle  Motors.  Parts  of  Four-cycle  Motors. 
Design  and  Construction  of  Motor  Parts.  Cylinders, 
Pistons,  Crank-cases,  Rings,  Pins,  Jackets,  Shafts,  Con- 
necting-rods, Bearings,  Cams  and  Gears.  Cooling 
Methods.  Water-  and  Air-cooled  Systems  .  .  .75 

CHAPTER  V 

Motor  Accessories.  Vaporizers  and  Carburetors.  Pumps, 
Fans,  and  Water  Circulation.  Lubrication.  Gravity 
and  Force-feed  Oiler,  Grease  Cups  and  Oiling  Methods  98 

267^97 


.  OF    CONTENTS 

CHAPTER   VI 

IGNITION 

PAGE 

Principles  of  Electrical  Ignition.  Dynamos  and  Magnetos. 
High-  and  Low-tension  Magnetos.  The  Wico  Igniter. 
Spark  Coils.  Spark  Plugs.  Vibrators.  Timers.  The 
Delco  System.  Make-and-break  Ignition.  Igniters. 
Operation  of  Igniters.  Comparison  of  Make-and-break 
and  Jump  Spark.  Altering  Make-and-break  to  Jump 
Spark 124 

CHAPTER  VII 

Mufflers  and  Exhaust  Devices.  Governors.  Fuel  and  Fuel 
Consumption.  Oils  and  Greases.  Installation.  Piping 
and  Wiring.  Gaskets  and  Packings.  Adjustments. 
General  Care  of  Motors 162 

CHAPTER  VIII 

Table  of  Motor  Troubles  with  Causes  and  Remedies.  Tools. 
Emergency  Repairs  and  Makeshifts.  Grinding  Com- 
pounds, Polishes,  Enamels,  Paints,  etc.  Carbon  Removers 
and  Cleansers.  Belts  and  Belt  Dressings.  Anti-freezing 
Mixtures 208 

CHAPTER   IX 

Glossary  of  Alphabetically  Arranged  Technical  Terms  with 
Explanations.  Heat  Values  of  Fuels.  Size  and  Capacity 
of  Tanks.  Iron  Pipe  Table.  U.  S.  Standard  Screw 
Threads.  Cap-screw  Sizes.  Drills  for  Screw  Holes. 
Surface  and  Volume  Tables  .  ...  .  .  246 


LIST    OF    ILLLUSTRATIONS 

Cover  design,  drawn  specially  for  this  book  by 
DOROTHY  I.  VERRILL 

riGURE  PAGE 

1.  Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine        .         .         .         .         .17 

2.  Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine        .         .         .         .         .18 

3.  Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 19 

4.  Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 20 

5.  Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine  22 

6.  Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine       .-•-••-.         .         .         .  23 

7.  Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine    '  .    ^     »     .    .         .         .  24 

8.  Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine       .         .         .         .         .  25 

9.  Three-port  Motor     .         .         .         .         .         *        .         .  33 

10.  Gray  Model  "T"  Motor     '   .        .        .        .        ,.        .  34 

11.  Two-three-port  Motor     .>       .         .      .  .         .-.       .         .  35 

12.  Two-three-port  Motor  with  Accelerator      .  .(-   •  .        .  37 

13.  Crasser  Motor         .         .         .        ;        .•      .        .        .  38 

14.  Smalley  Motor ^         .  40 

15.  Powell  Open-base  Motor          .         .        .:     -  .      :.        .  42 

16.  Motor  with  Throttle  in  By-pass       .         .         .v     .         .  44 

17.  Elmore  Motor  with  Distributor      .         .         .        i         .  46 

1 8.  Two-throw  Crank  Shaft          .         .         .        .;  '.    ,.         .  50 

19.  Three-throw  Crank  Shaft        .         .         .         .    \/.   .     .  50 

20.  A,  Four-throw  Crank  Shaft  at  90  Degrees           .         .  50 

20.  B,  Four-throw  Crank  Shaft  at  180  Degrees           .         .  50 

21.  Cylinders  Cast  en  bloc 51 

22.  Separate  Cylinders  on  Solid  Base          ....  52 

23.  Tappet  Valve 55 

24.  Poppet-valve  Mechanism        ......  56 

25.  Mechanically  Operated  Valves       .....  58 

26.  L-head  Cylinder 59 

27.  Valve  in  Head  Cylinder 60 

28.  Sleeve-valve  Motor;   Sleeves  and  Piston          ...  62 

29.  Sleeve-valve  Motor;    General  Plan          ....  63 

30.  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Section 64 

31.  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Section 65 

32.  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Section    .,,,,«  66 

3 


4  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIGURE  PAGE 

33.  Diagram  of  Cylinder  Head  of  Reynolds  Motor  and  Valve 

Removed  with  Gear 67 

34.  Motor  with  Offset  Crankshaft 69 

35.  Opposed   Cylinder   Motor 71 

36.  Freak  Balanced  Motor 73 

37.  Horizontal  Motor     ........  74 

38.  Parts  of  Two-cycle  Motor       .         .         .         .         .         -77 

39.  Parts  of  Four-cycle  Motor 79 

40.  Make-and-break  Spark  System 81 

41.  Piston  and  Rings 83 

42.  Piston  Pin 84 

43.  Section  of  Piston  with  Pin  held  by  Set-screws         .         .  85 

44.  Piston  Pin  Bushed  in   Piston 86 

45.  Piston  Pin  Bushed  in  Connecting  Rod         ...  86 

46.  Connecting  Rod  with  Hinged  Cap         ....  86 

47.  Connecting  Rod  with   Bolted  Cap         ....  87 

48.  Solid  Base  with  One  End  Removable        ....  87 

49.  Split  Base        .         .         .                  .         .         .         .         .  88 

50.  Base  with  Both  Bearing  Ends  Removable         ...  89 

51.  Cylinder  with  Separate  Head 9° 

52.  Cylinder  with  Water  Jacket  Clamped  on         .         .         •  91 

53.  Methods  of  Attaching  Counterweights  92 

54.  Gray  Counterbalanced  Shaft    .         .         ...         •         -93 

55.  Removable  Bearings,  Gray      .....         .         •  94 

56.  Tapered  Fly-wheel  Shaft           .         .         .         .         ,         .  -96 

57.  Tapered   Fly-wheel   Shaft  with  Bushing         .         .         .  96 

58.  Tapered  Fly-wheel  Shaft  with  Releasing  Nut         .         •  96 

59.  Vaporizer          .         .         .         .~                .         .         ,         .  99 

60.  Schebler  Model  "D"  Carburetor     .        ..         .     .    »         .  101 

61.  Krice  Carburetor     .         .         .         .         ;     •    .     ••'..„         .  103 

62.  Kingston  Carburetor       .         .        ...         .    .     .         »         •  104 

63.  Cadillac   Carburetor        .         .         .....         »         -105 

64.  Plunger   Pump         .         ...         *•    :..  .-••».      ...   .     .  108 

65.  Rotary    Pump          .         .         .                  .:'   '.,.&  Y>  ;-:.>  -      .  109 

66.  Lobee  Gear  Pump  (Ghost  View)     .    .     .  - ,'-   ;         .         .  no 

67.  Lobee  Gear  Pump,  Flow  of  Water     •   „        .        .         .  in 

68.  Ferro  Water-circulating  System       .    .     *     .    .         .      112-113 

69.  Multiple   Oiler         .         .         .      .  .         .         .,       ^  .      .  115 

70.  Detroit  Force-feed  Oiler         .         .         .         ..    .~t^-     .  116 

71.  Osgood  Force-feed  Oiler         .        ..         .     '   .    .  -Wv      •  117 

72.  Buffalo  Oiling  Rings       .         .        ^     >  »   ",    >    ;-V    -.    .  120 


LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS  5 

FIGURE  PAGE 

73.  Buffalo  Oiling  Rings  Assembled  on  Shaft         .         .         .121 

74.  Gray  Oiling  System        .         .       •-..        .         .         .         .122 

75.  Grease  Cup 122 

76.  Ferro  Oiling  System       .         .         .         .         .         .         .     123 

77.  Diagram  of  Dynamo       .......     127 

78.  Diagram  of  Magneto 128 

79.  Parts  of  Comet  Magneto       .     .    . ..      .         .         .         .     131 

80.  Wico  Igniter    .         .       -.         .        i.         .     .   .         .         .     132 

81.  Diagram  of  Jump-spark  Coil          .        >         .         ,         .     137 

82.  Types  of  Vibrators   .         -.         .......         .         .138 

83.  Connecticut  Plug  Coil     .         .         .         .         .         .         .     141 

84.  Standard  Plugs       .        ^..;     ..-       .  '     v        .         .         .     143 
-    85.  Reliance   Plugs    '  -  >.   ;      .     :.  i .'-•.    *         .         .         .         .144 

86.  Breech-block    Plugs      -._...       ->  ,      .         .     145 

87.  Rajah  Plugs     .         .         .-      .....        *        .         .     146 

88.  E-Z  Plugs        .         ;         .  -    V     :•         •        •        «         •     J47 

89.  Magneto  and  Edison  Plugs     .     ':.;*,>».         .     148 

90.  Cam  and  Spring  Timer    »       r»  ;       .         .         .         •         .149 

91.  Simple   Timers         ........     149 

92.  Tuttle  Timers  Assembled  on  Motor         .         .         .         .150 

93.  Tuttle  Timers,  Sectional  View       .         .         ...     151 

94.  Roller  and  Spring  Wipe  Timers         .         .         ...     153 

95.  Delco    System .:       „      154-155 

96.  Make-and-break  Igniter  with  Lettering    .         .    \^.     .    .     157 

97.  Make-and-break  Igniter  ....        i ;        *         .     158 

98.  Make-and-break  Igniter,  Self-contained.       :  i.     •>    .     .     159 

99.  Make-and-break  Igniter,  Altered  to  Jump  Spark     .         .160 

100.  Gray  Auxiliary   Exhaust          .         .         .         .         .         .163 

101.  Auxiliary  Exhaust  Chamber 164 

102.  Reid  Underwater  Exhaust  Head 166 

103.  Reid  Underwater  Exhaust  Connected  to  Boat         .         .166 

104.  Underwater  Exhaust  Connections  and  Fittings         .         .167 

105.  Underwater  Exhaust  Connections  and  Fittings         .         .     168 

1 06.  Muffler  with  Pebbles .169 

107.  Muffler  with  Perforated  Inlet  Pipe         .         .         .         .     169 

1 08.  Muffler  with  Inlet  and  Outlet  Perforated     .  .         .         .170 

109.  Baffle-plate    Muffler 170 

no.  Yankee  Auto  Muffler 171 

in.  Yankee  Marine  Muffler 171 

112.  Ejector  Muffler i?2 

113.  Hydrex  Silencer i?3 


6  LIST    OF    ILLUSTRATIONS 

FIGURE  PAGE 

114.  Thermex  Silencer 174 

115.  Exhaust- valve  Governor 175 

1 1 6.  Throttle-valve  Governor 176 

117.  Hit-and-miss  Governor    .         .         .         .         .         .         .177 

1 1 8.  Inertia  Governor     .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .178 

119.  Concrete   Beds         ........  184 

120.  Beds   in   Boats 186 

121.  Marine  Exhaust  Properly  Connected  (Under  Water)         .  188 

122.  Marine  Exhaust  Properly  Connected  (Above  Water)         .  189 

123.  Stationary  Exhaust  with  Connections     .         .         .         .190 

124.  Detroit  3-way  Valve 191 

125.  Gasolene  Piping  and  Connections    .....  193 

126.  Wiring  Single-cylinder  Jump  Spark  for  Batteries           .  194 

127.  Wiring  Single-cylinder    Jump  Spark    for  Batteries  and 

Magneto       .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .         .  195 

128.  Wiring  Two-cylinder  Jump  Spark  for -Batteries         .         .  196 

129.  Wiring  Make-and-break  for  Batteries      .         .         .         .197 

130.  Wiring  Make-and-break  for  Batteries  and  Magneto         .  197 

131.  Wiring  any  Number  of  Cylinders  with  Master  Vibrator  198 

132.  Alpco  System  with  Generator  and  Storage  Battery         .  199 

133.  Wiring  for  Perfex  or  Orswell  Systems       .         .         .         .199 

134.  Wiring  for  Perfection  Plug  Transformer         .         .         .  200 
135-  Wiring  for  Connecticut   Plug  Coil         ....  200 

136.  Wiring  "  Delco "  System         .         .         .         .         .         .  201 

137.  Reliance   Terminals 202 

138.  "Connecticut"  Terminals        .         .         .         .         .         .  203 

139.  Old  Bolt  Split  to  Tighten 212 

140.  Slit   Lock   Nut 213 

141.  Monkey  Wrench  Used  with  File  as  Pipe  Wrench         .  214 

142.  Patching  Leaky  Jacket 216 

143.  Set-screw  to  Tighten  Bearings 219 

144.  Valve  Lifter .  220 

145.  Valve  Grinding  Tool  from  Augur 221 

146.  Valve  with  Ball  Race 223 

147.  Morgan  Priming  Cup 224 

148.  Spreading  Rings  with  Pliers     .         *      -  £ '...-%-    \        .         .  225 

149.  Shims  for  Removing  Rings      .         .         ...         .  225 

150.  Pliers  for  Spreading  Rings      .         .         .    . ,  >:;.     .         .  226 

151.  Wedges  on  Cylinder-head  for  Putting  in  Piston       ...  .      .  227 

152.  Shims  for  Inserting  Piston  in  Cylinder         .         .        ,  228 


PREFACE 

IN  the  preparation  of  this  work  the  author  has  endeav- 
ored to  produce  a  book  which  will  serve  as  a  practical 
guide  and  handbook  to  all  those  who  at  any  time  have 
occasion  to  use  or  operate  gasolene  engines.  It  is  par- 
ticularly intended  for  those  with  little  or  no  knowledge 
of  mechanics  or  engineering,  and  with  this  purpose  in 
view  technical  terms  and  names  have -been  practically 
eliminated  from  the  text  and  descriptions,  and  explana- 
tions have  been  made  as  clear  and  plain  as  possible  and 
as  concise  as  a  full  explanation  will  admit.  As  tech- 
nicalities cannot  be  entirely  avoided  in  any  work  dealing 
with  machinery,  a  full  glossary  of  such  terms,  as  applied 
to  gasolene  motors,  has  been  added  to  the  work,  and  the 
reader  who  is  without  any  knowledge  whatever  of 
machinists'  and  engineers'  terms  will  find  in  this  feature 
a  ready  reference  and  explanation. 

Appreciating  the  value  of  illustrations  as  an  aid  to 
text  description,  the  author  has  endeavored  to  figure 
each  and  every  part  and  feature  treated  in  the  work; 
and  in  order  to  make  the  illustrations  more  plain  and 
understandable  every  part  or  portion  not  directly  related 
to  the  point  under  discussion  has  been  eliminated  in  the 
figures. 

The  illustrations  are  in  no  sense  working  drawings, 
but  are  mainly  diagrammatic,  and  no  attempt  has  been 
made  to  draw  them  to  accurate  scale,  while  in  order 

7 


8  PREFACE 

to  bring  out  certain  features  of  construction  or  opera- 
tion such  features  have  been  purposely  exaggerated. 
This  is  the  case  with  the  tapered  shafts  on  page  '96, 
as  well  as  with  the  pitch  of  various  screw  threads  and 
gear  teeth.  This  may  be  wrong  theoretically,  but  in  serv- 
ing its  purpose  it  is  good  practically,  which  is  exactly 
the  reverse  of  many  theories  in  mechanics  and  engi- 
neering. 

While  volumes  might  be  devoted  to  enumerating  and 
describing  all  the  troubles  which  might  occur  in  gasolene- 
engine  operation,  yet  the  number  that  are  likely  to  be 
met  are  comparatively  few  and  are  fully  covered  in  the 
alphabetically  arranged  table  of  troubles  in  the  work. 

The  plain  and  simple  tables  of  screw  threads,  pipe 
sizes,  etc.,  will,  it  is  hoped,  prove  of  value,  especially  to 
those  having  occasion  to  replace  or  order  fittings  or 
screws. 

The  chapter  on  useful  hints  and  makeshift  repairs 
has  been  compiled  from  actual  experience  and  each 
has  been  tried  and  tested  many  times  in  real  practice. 

The  author  sincerely  hopes  that  the  work  will  prove 
as  useful  and  valuable  to  all  his  readers  as  a  similar 
work  would  have  been  to  him  in  the  early  years  of  his 
gasolene-motor  experiences. 

September,  1912. 


INTRODUCTION 

THE  discovery  of  the  Gas  Engine  marked  a  new  era 
in  mechanical  progress  and  its  perfection  has  led  to  some 
of  the  most  marvellous  and  important  of  modern  inven- 
tions and  achievements. 

Through  its  use  aeroplanes  and  submarines  have 
become  possible,  and  motor  vehicles  of  all  kinds  depend 
largely  upon  the  gasolene  engine  for  power;  while 
motor  boats,  launches,  and  power  cruisers  have  placed 
yachting  within  reach  of  the  man  of  moderate  means, 
whereas  a  few  years  ago  the  use  of  steam  confined  this 
pleasure  to  the  wealthy  few. 

Useful  and  important  as  the  gas  motor  has  proved 
for  vehicle  and  marine  use,  even  more  valuable  are  its 
services  in  stationary  form.  In  factory,  home,  and  farm 
the  stationary  gasolene  engine  is  in  daily  use,  performing 
steadily  and  easily  the  work  of  many  hands  at  a  fraction 
of  the  cost  of  the  old  steam  engine.  On  the  farm  espe- 
cially has  the  explosive  motor  proven  its  worth,  and  this 
light,  simple,  portable  power-plant  has  revolutionized 
farm  work  in  many  sections.  Labor  that  was  formerly 
slow  and  irksome  is  now  performed  easily,  quickly,  and 
pleasurably  and  the  ingenious  farmer  finds  a  thousand 
and  one  uses  for  his  motor.  It  will  separate  his  cream, 
turn  his  grindstone,  do  the  wife's  washing,  and  light  the 
home  with  electricity;  and  if  mounted  on  a  "tractor" 

9 


10  INTRODUCTION 

it  will  plough  and  harrow  the  fields,  plant  and  cultivate 
the  crops,  and  will  mow,  thresh,  and  grind  the  grain. 

When  we  consider  the  manifold  uses  of  the  gas  engine 
and  the  number  in  daily  use  it  seems  surprising  that  so 
few  owners,  operators,  or  users  thoroughly  understand 
their  engines  or  their  construction,  operation,  or  care. 
Many  a  man  who  would  feel  incompetent  to  operate  a 
steam  engine  will  .undertake  to  handle  a  large  or  com- 
plicated gas  engine;  and  yet,  as  a  matter  of  fact,  the 
latter  is  by  far  the  more  delicate  piece  of  mechanism. 
It  certainly  speaks  well  for  the  modern  gas  motor  that, 
under  the  ordinary  conditions  and  in  the  hands  of  so 
many  people  absolutely  ignorant  of  the  first  principles 
of  engineering  or  mechanics,  there  is  so  little  trouble. 
It  is  no  uncommon  thing  to  hear  the  owner  of  a  gasolene 
engine  boast  that  his  motor  has  run  so  many  miles  or  so 
many  hours  without  missing  an  explosion.  Did  you 
ever  hear  a  steam-engineer  boast  that  his  engine  had  run 
a  few  hours  or  a  few  days  without  blowing  up  the  boiler 
or  bursting  a  cylinder? — and  yet  there  is  as  much  reason 
for  one  as  for  the  other.  If  a  gas  motor  is  properly 
adjusted  and  runs  smoothly  for  an  hour  there  is  no 
earthly  reason  why  it  should  not  continue  to  run  for 
days,  months,  or  years,  as  long  as  it  is  fed  fuel,  lubri- 
cating oil,  and  electric  current,  and  ordinary  wear  and 
tear  are  attended  to,  as  in  any  other  piece  of  machinery. 

The  idea  that  a  gas  engine  must  give  trouble,  that  it  is 
an  obstinate  and  balky  thing,  and  that  it  will  fail  at  the 
most  critical  time  without  cause  is  pure  nonsense.  If  a 
gas  engine  fails  to  operate  there  is  some  good  and  suffi- 
cient reason;  for  the  modern  gas  engine  is  no  longer 


INTRODUCTION  11 

an  experiment,  made  by  guess  and  by  hand,  but  is  a 
thoroughly  well  made,  carefully  designed,  and  well 
tested  mechanical  device;  but  like  any  other  machine, 
to  operate  successfully,  it  must  be  given  certain  con- 
ditions. Nine  times  out  of  ten  the  "balkiness  and 
obstinacy"  are  in  the  operator  and  not  in  the  motor, 
and  a  little  common  sense  and  judgment  will  do  far 
more  than  a  lot  of  swearing,  cranking,  and  hit-or-miss 
adjusting. 

One  often  sees  a  man  operating  a  motor,  which  is 
running  smoothly  and  well,  continually  loosening  a  nut 
or  screw  here  and  tightening  there,  or  fooling  with  some 
part  or  another  of  his  engine.  This  practice  is  sure  to 
cause  trouble  and  sooner  or  later  the  motor  skips  and 
stops.  Being  perfectly  ignorant  of  the  cause,  or  of  the 
former  adjustment  of  the  parts,  the  operator  tries  one 
thing  after  another  and  eventually  either  gives  up  in 
despair  or  by  pure  luck  gets  the  motor  running.  In  the 
former  case  a  repairman's  bill  results  in  blaming  the 
motor  and  gas  engines  in  general,  while  in  the  latter  case 
our  friend  flatters  himself  that  he  knows  all  about  gas 
engines  and  thereafter  poses  as  an  expert  with  a  fund  of 
ready  advice  to  every  other  user  of  a  motor;  and  yet, 
should  the  same  trouble  arise  again,  he  would  be  as 
much  at  a  loss  as  before.  This  sort  of  trouble  is  far 
commoner  with  marine  motors  than  with  those  in  motor 
vehicles,  for  in  a  boat  the  engine  is  exposed  and  within 
easy  reach,  whereas  in  the  vehicle  it  cannot  be  touched 
or  meddled  with  while  operating.  It  is  mainly  for  this 
reason  that  vehicle  motors  appear  to  run  more  regularly 
and  reliably  than  marine  motors.  Of  course  one  now  and 


12  INTRODUCTION 

then  runs  across  an  old,  poorly  designed,  or  worn-out 
engine  that  will  run  badly  and  cannot  be  depended  upon, 
but  in  most  cases  a  little  adjustment  here  and  there,  a 
little  lubrication,  or  some  other  small  matter  is  all  that 
is  required.  During  a  number  of  years'  experience  in 
handling  and  repairing  gasolene  engines,  the  author  has 
yet  to  find  a  motor  which  could  not  be  made  to  run — 
save  in  one  or  two  cases  where  the  engine  was  completely 
worn  out  and  fit  only  for  the  junk  heap. 

Many  books  have  been  written  on  gas  engines  and  their 
care  and  operation,  but  in  the  majority  of  cases  these 
works  are  either  too  technical  or  are  confined  to  one 
particular  class  of  engines.  Others  describe  and  discuss 
oil,  kerosene,  and  producer-gas  engines,  as  well  as  those 
designed  to  operate  on  gasolene,  and  this  is  apt  to  be 
very  confusing  to  the  inexperienced,  for  while,  strictly 
speaking,  all  these  are  gas  engines,  yet  the  individual 
peculiarities  of  different  fuels  require  certain  variations 
in  design  and  operation  in  the  motors  and  each  should  be 
made  a  separate  study  in  itself.  The  purpose  of  the 
present  work  is  to  furnish  all  the  necessary  information 
regarding  gasolene  engines  in  simple  language  free  from 
technical  terms  and  as  far  as  possible  cover  all  varia- 
tions, types,  and  classes  of  these  motors  and  their 
various  parts,  accessories,  and  appliances.  In  order  to 
illustrate  the  various  types  of  engines  and  devices  cer- 
tain makes  with  distinctive  characters  have  been  used 
as  examples,  but  the  author  wishes  it  clearly  understood 
that  such  mention  of  a  certain  make  of  engine  or  accessory 
does  not  imply  that  it  is  the  best  or  that  it  is  recom- 
mended or  endorsed  by  this  work.  Such  mention  merely 


INTRODUCTION  13 

indicates  that  the  motor  or  appliance  is  typical  of  its 
class  and  is  a  well  known  and  standard  make. 

As  the  number  of  gasolene  motors  on  the  market  is 
steadily  increasing  and  there  are  over  ten  thousand 
manufacturers  of  explosive  engines  in  the  United  States 
to-day,  it  is  practically  impossible  to  mention  more 
than  a  very  limited  portion  of  the  various  designs, 
innovations  and  improvements  constantly  being  made 
in  this  industry.  In  all  gasolene  engines  the  principle 
is  the  same,  and  the  care  and  operation  identical,  and 
the  man  who  becomes  thoroughly  familiar  with  one 
engine  will  have  no  trouble  in  mastering  any  other. 

As  technical  terms  cannot  be  avoided  under  certain 
conditions,  such  as  ordering  new  parts,  making  repairs, 
machine-shop  work,  etc.,  a  glossary  of  such  terms  with 
an  explanation  of  the  meaning  of  each  has  been  added 
to  the  work  as  well  as  an  alphabetically  arranged  table 
of  common  troubles  and  their  symptoms  and  remedies, 
features  which  the  author  believes  will  prove  of  great 
value  to  all  owners,  users,  or  operators  of  gasolene 
motors. 


GASOLENE    ENGINES 


CHAPTER  I 

TYPES  OF  MOTORS.    OPERATION  AND  EXPLANATION  OF  TWO-CYCLE 
AND  FOUR-CYCLE  MOTORS 

ALL  gas,  gasolene,  or  oil  motors,  known  collectively  as 
Explosive  Engines,  may  be  roughly  divided  into  two 
classes  or  types:  the  Two-cycle  or  Two-stroke  engines 
and  the  Four-cycle  or  Four-stroke  engines.* 

While  these  two  types  are  quite  distinct  in  their  con- 
struction and  operation,  yet  the  principle  in  each  is  the 
same.  A  charge  of  gas,  gasolene,  or  oil  vapor  is  drawn 
into  the  cylinder,  is  compressed  therein  by  a  piston,  and 
while  under  compression  is  ignited  by  an  electric  spark 
or  similar  device.  The  force  of  the  exploding  gas  drives 
down  the  piston  which*,  acting  upon  a  crank,  transmits 
the  power  of  the  explosion  to  a  revolving  shaft  and  thence 
to  the  boat,  vehicle,  or  machine  requiring  the  power. 

It  will  thus  be  seen  that  a  gas  of  the  highest  explosive 

*  The  author  is  well  aware  that  certain  six-cycle  motors  have  been 
built  and  used  to  some  extent.  In  these  engines  the  additional  idle 
stroke  is  utilized  to  draw  a  charge  of  clean  air  into  the  cylinder  in 
order  to  more  perfectly  scavenge  the  burnt  gases.  Such  motors 
have  not  come  into  general  use,  however,  and  the  ordinary  operator 
is  not  likely  to  encounter  an  engine  of  this  type.  They  are  not 
considered  of  sufficient  importance  to  be  worthy  of  consideration 
in  the  present  work. 

15 


16  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

power,  an  ignition  device  that  can  be  depended  upon, 
and  a  cylinder  that  will  not  leak  and  lose  compression 
are  the  most  necessary  essentials  for  the  proper  operation 
of  a  gas  motor. 

The  simplest  form  of  gasolene  engine  is  the  Two-cycle 
in  which  the  parts  may  be  reduced  to  a  minimum,  only 
three  moving  parts  being  absolutely  essential  (Fig.  i). 

In  this  figure  the  piston  A  is  represented  as  being  at 
the  upward  limit  of  its  stroke  with  the  space  between  the 
top  of  piston  and  top  of  cylinder  B  filled  with  a  charge 
of  compressed  gas.  At  this  position,  or  "Firing  Stroke," 
an  electric  spark  takes  place  at  C  and  ignites  the  gas 
which,  exploding,  drives  the  piston  A  downward.  At 
the  point  illustrated  in  Fig.  2  the  opening  D  in  the 
cylinder  wall  is  uncovered  by  the  piston,  and  the  burning 
and  practically  exhausted  gas  rushes  out  through  this 
opening  and  escapes.  Almost  at  the  same  instant  the 
opening  E  is  uncovered  and  a  fresh  charge  of  gas — which 
has  been  contained  in  the  base  F — is  forced  up  through 
the  opening  G  to  take  the  place  of  the  exhausted  charge 
(Fig.  3).  The  momentum  of  the  moving  fly-wheel  and 
shaft  now  carries  the  piston  on  its  upward  course,  closing 
the  openings  or  "ports"  D  and  E  and  at  the  same  time 
drawing  by  suction  a  fresh  charge  of  gas  or  gasolene 
vapor  into  the  base  through  the  opening  H  (Fig.  4).  As 
the  piston  reaches  the  top  of  its  stroke  a  spark  again 
ignites  the  compressed  charge,  the  piston  is  again  forced 
down,  and  the  operation  repeated  over  and  over  again. 
In  this  motor  it  will  readily  be  seen  that  an  explosion 
or  impulse  takes  place  at  every  complete  revolution  of 
the  shaft  or,  in  other  words,  at  every  two  strokes  of  the 


THEIR  OPERATIONS,   USE,  AND  CAKE 


17 


Fig.  i. — Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 
(See  page  16) 


18 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


Fig.  2. — Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 
(See  page  16) 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE 


19 


Fig.  3. — Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 
(See  page  16) 


20 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  4. — Operation  of  Two-cycle  Engine 
(See  page  16) 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        21 

piston.  In  order  to  first  start  a  two-cycle  motor  in  its 
operation  a  charge  of  gas  or  vapor  must  be  drawn  into 
the  base  and  forced  up  to  the  top  of  the  cylinder  and 
compressed  there.  One  complete  revolution  of  the 
shaft  is  necessary  to  accomplish  this,  and  this  revolving 
a  shaft  by  hand  is  commonly  known  as  "cranking.'' 
Unless  a  motor  is  out  of  order  or  some  adjustment  is 
wrong  one  revolution  only  should  suffice  to  start  the 
engine,  and  if  it  fails  to  start  then  further  cranking  is 
merely  a  waste  of  time  and  strength  until  the  fault  is 
corrected.  Indeed  most  motors  when  properly  adjusted 
will  start  by  merely  rocking  the  fly-wheel  back  and  forth 
and  "throwing  it  up"  against  compression.  In  cold 
weather,  however,  motors  will  often  start  very  hard 
and  at  such  times  "priming"  should  be  resorted  to. 
This  matter  will,  however,  be  fully  dealt  with  in  the 
succeeding  chapters. 

In  Figs.  5  to  8  a  section  of  a  four-cycle  engine  is 
illustrated.  In  this  type  of  motor  the  parts  are  far  more 
numerous  and  the  operation  more  complicated.  The 
motor  is  shown  in  Fig.  5  with  the  piston  P  at  the  top 
of  stroke  or  "firing  stroke,"  with  a  compressed  charge 
ready  to  explode,  and  with  both  the  valves  VI,  VE 
closed.  The  explosion  taking  place  the  piston  is  forced 
down  as  in  the  two-cycle  motor  already  described,  and 
the  shaft  is  turned  half  a  revolution.  In  its  downward 
passage  the  exhaust  valve  VE  is  opened  through  the 
action  of  a  cam  C  and  gear  G  connected  to  the  main 
shaft,  and  the  motor  then  appears  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  6. 
The  piston  now  commences  its  upward  stroke,  thus 
forcing  the  burnt  gas  out  through  the  exhaust  valve 


22 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


which  remains  open  until  the  piston  has  reached  its 
upward  limit  and  has  commenced  to  descend.  At  this 
point  the  exhaust  valve  closes  and  the  intake  valve  VI 


Fig.  5. — Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine 

commences  to  open  (Fig.  7).  As  the  piston  continues 
on  its  downward  course  its  suction  draws  a  charge  of  gas 
in  through  VI  until  the  lowest  point  of  the  stroke  is 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


23 


reached.  The  intake  valve  VI  now  closes,  and  as  the 
exhaust  valve  VE  still  remains  closed  the  upward  stroke 
of  the  piston  compresses  the  gas  until  again  ignited  by 


Fig.  6. — Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine 

the  spark  (Fig.  8) .  The  operation  is  then  repeated  over 
and  over.  By  reference  to  the  figures  and  the  explana- 
tion it  will  be  seen  that  in  this  form  of  motor  an  explosion 


24 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


takes  place  at  every  two  revolutions  of  the  shaft  or  at 
every  four  strokes  of  the  piston. 
To  the  uninitiated  it  would  appear  that  an  engine 


Fig.  7,-f-Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine 

receiving  an  explosive  impulse  on  every  two  strokes 
would  naturally  be  more  powerful  and  would  run  more 
steadily  and  with  less  vibration  than  a  motor  receiving 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE 


25 


an  impulse  only  on  every  fourth  stroke.  In  reality 
there  is  but  little  difference  in  the  power  delivered  by  a 
two-cycle  or  a  four-cycle  engine;  while,  as  a  rule  steadi- 


Fig.  8. — Operation  of  Four-cycle  Engine 

ness  and  reliability  are  in  favor  of  the  four-cycle  motor. 
Probably  the  four-cycle  motor  uses  less  fuel  for  the  same 
power  than  a  two-cycle,  but  even  this  may  be  doubted 


26  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

in  the  case  of  many  of  the  better  classes  of  two-cycle 
engines.  In  the  four-cycle  type  the  burnt  gases  have  a 
longer  opportunity  to  escape,  besides  being  mechanically 
forced  out  by  the  piston  itself,  and  as  a  result  the  fresh 
charge  of  gas  is  purer  and  possesses  better  explosive 
properties  and  more  power.  Moreover,  the  idle  stroke 
allows  the  cylinder  more  time  to  cool  off  while  the  valve 
action  regulates  the  amount  of  charge  taken  into  the 
cylinder  more  accurately  than  in  the  fixed  opening,  or 
port,  of  the  two-cycle  type.  Each  type  of  motor  has  its 
devotees  who  claim  all  the  advantages  for  their  own 
particular  type,  but  it  is  doubtful  if  there  is  any  great 
difference  as  far  as  actual  utility  is  concerned.  Both  the 
two-  and  four-cycle  types  are  used  extensively  in  station- 
ary work,  but  for  light  marine  work  the  two-cycle  type 
is  the  most  used.  For  larger  boats  and  where  great 
power  is  desired  the  four-cycle  engines  predominate, 
while  in  automobiles  and  other  motor  vehicles  four- 
cycle engines  are  almost  universally  used.  This  seems 
to  be  due  to  the  greater  perfection  of  the  four-cycle 
engines  rather  than  to  their  actual  performance  as  com- 
pared with  the  two-cycle,  for  in  a  few  makes  of  cars  the 
latter  are  employed  with  very  marked  success.  Although 
the  two-cycle  is  so  much  simpler  in  construction  and 
operation  yet  it  is  harder  to  design  and  build  a  really 
good  two-cycle  motor  than  a  four-cycle,  and  usually  it 
requires  more  care  and  more  knowledge  to  regulate  and 
adjust  one  correctly.  This  seeming  paradox  is  explained 
by  the  fact  that  in  a  four-cycle  motor  the  timing  and 
regulating  of  the  valves  may  be  made  to  overcome 
many  faults  in  the  design  or  construction  of  the  motor 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND    CARE  27 

or  its  parts,  whereas  in  the  two-cycle  motor  every 
measurement  must  be  within  very  exact  limits  in  order 
for  the  motor  to  work  at  all.  In  adjusting  motors  the 
valves  again  cause  the  four-cycle  to  be  the  simpler,  for  a 
considerable  difference  in  the  amount  of  air  or  fuel, 
or  even  in  more  important  matters,  makes  but  slight 
difference  in  the  apparent  working  of  the  motor,  whereas 
in  the  two-cycle  type  a  very  slight  difference  in  the  pro- 
portions of  the  fuel  causes  a  marked  difference  in  the 
results  obtained. 

It  has  been  claimed  by  many  that  the  four-cycle  is 
more  flexible,  or,  in  other  words,  can  be  varied  in  speed 
and  power  to  a  greater  extent  than  the  two-cycle  motor, 
but  I  am  inclined  to  doubt  this.  A  properly  designed 
and  constructed  two-cycle  motor  may  be  run  satisfac- 
torily at  from  one  hundred  to  several  thousand  revolu- 
tions per  minute  without  trouble,  and  many  of  the  best 
four-cycle  engines  fail  to  run  at  all  regularly  when  the 
speed  is  varied  suddenly  to  any  extent. 

A  very  important  point  that  is  all  too  frequently 
overlooked  by  the  owner  or  user  of  gasolene  motors  is  the 
"  human  element."  One  man  will  get  splendid  results 
from  a  certain  type  or  make  of  engine  while  another 
person  will  have  continual  trouble  with  it  and  condemn 
it  outright.  This  peculiar  adaptability,  or  "knack"  as 
it  may  be  called,  of  some  operators  with  certain  engines 
seems  remarkable  at  first  sight,  but  if  carefully  studied 
will  usually  prove  to  be  due  to  the  fact  that  the  operator 
has  thoroughly  learned  his  engine.  No  two  gasolene 
motors  are  exactly  alike,  and  no  two  engines  will  run 
equally  well  with  exactly  the  same  treatment.  This  is 


28  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

more  often  due  to  surrounding  conditions  than  to  the 
motor  itself,  but  nevertheless  I  have  yet  to  see  the 
engine  that  does  not  require  some  " humoring"  and  for 
this  reason  I  strongly  advise  every  purchaser  or  user  of  a 
gasolene  motor  to  be  sure  that  he  has  thoroughly  mastered 
his  motor  and  learned  its  ways  before  deciding  that  there 
is  really  anything  wrong  with  the  mechanism  itself. 

Before  deciding  on  the  type  or  make  of  motor  suited 
to  your  particular  requirements,  study  the  matter  care- 
fully and  study  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of 
each  until  thoroughly  satisfied  that  you  have  selected 
the  best  motor  for  your  purpose.  There  are  many 
hundreds  of  motors  made,  and  while  practically  every 
well-known  and  reliable  firm  turns  out  a  good  motor 
nowadays,  yet  some  are  better  than  others  and  each 
make  and  type  possesses  certain  advantages  that  fit  it 
for  particular  purposes  or  conditions. 

Do  not  expect  to  get  a  first-class  motor  at  an  absurdly 
low  price.  It  costs  money  to  design  and  build  a  good 
engine,  and  while  the  large  manufacturer,  with  special 
tools  and  machinery  and  every  facility  for  turning  out 
motors  in  large  numbers,  can  make  a  much  lower  price 
than  the  man  who  makes  each  motor  by  hand  and  builds 
only  a  few  at  a  time,  yet  if  a  motor  is  advertised  at  a 
very  low  figure,  steer  clear  of  it.  As  a  rule  the  motors 
made  by  large  firms  at  a  reasonable  price  are  far  better 
than  those  made  in  small  numbers  at  a  high  price,  for 
in  the  former  case  the  parts  are  interchangeable  and  new 
pieces  may  be  purchased  at  a  low  figure  and  will  always  fit, 
whereas  the  small  manufacturer  seldom  turns  out  parts 
that  do  not  require  considerable  hand  work  before  they 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  29 

can  be  made  to  fit  an  old  motor.  Many  manufacturers 
depend  on  overrating  their  motors  to  increase  sales. 
They  will  advertise  a  motor  at  almost  double  its  actual 
power  and  sell  it  at  the  price  others  charge  for  the 
actual  power  advertised  and  thus  appear  to  sell  a  motor 
at  a  very  low  price.  Usually  such  motors  are  extremely 
high-speed,  short-lived  engines,  or  else  the  maker  is 
deliberately  trying  to  defraud  you.  There  is  no  excuse 
for  being  swindled,  however,  for  it  is  a  simple  matter 
to  determine  the  horse-power  of  any  motor.  Bore  and 
stroke  and  speed  give  the  power,  and  while  various 
motors  may  give  more  or  less  power  according  to  design 
and  workmanship,  yet  within  certain  limits  the  power 
may  be  readily  determined. 

The  amount  that  the  explosive  gas  is  compressed 
before  ignition  also  affects  the  power  of  the  motor, 
as  well  as  the  proper  adjustment  of  fuel,  proper  lubrica- 
tion, and  correct  ignition.  The  power  computed  from 
these  established  factors  is  known  as  the  Indicated 
Horse-power,  but  the  whole  of  this  power  is  never 
available.  A  large  part  is  consumed  in  overcoming  the 
friction  in  the  motor  itself,  and  the  power  remaining 
after  this  is  overcome  is  called  the  Delivered  Horse-power. 
The  proportion  of  the  Delivered  Power  to  the  Indicated 
Power  is  known  as  the  Mechanical  Efficiency,  and  is 
usually  expressed  in  per  cent.  Thus  if  the  Indicated 
Horse-power  of  an  engine  is  10  H.P.  and  the  Delivered 
Power  is  8  H.P.,  the  Mechanical  Efficiency  will  be  8/10 
or  80  per  cent,  and  the  friction  load  (overcome  in  oper- 
ating) will  equal  10  — 8  or  2  H.P.  While  the  pressure 
of  the  gas  under  compression  varies  considerably,  accord- 


30  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

ing  to  the  fuel  used  and  design  of  engine,  yet  the  pressures 
are  so  well  known  and  the  proper  pressure  so  well 
established  that  an  average  of  about  70  pounds  per  square 
inch  may  be  counted  on.  With  these  factors  known  the 
following  formulas  may  be  depended  upon  to  ascertain 
with  reasonable  accuracy  the  Delivered  Horse-power  of 
any  gasolene  motor. 

For  four-cycle  motors:  D.H.P.  =  Diam.  of  cylinder 
multiplied  by  itself,  times  the  length  of  stroke,  times 
the  number  of  revolutions  per  minute,  divided  by  18,000. 
For  example,  the  D.H.P.  of  a  motor  with  a  3-in.  bore, 
3-in.  stroke,  running  1,000  revolutions  per  minute  = 
3X3X3X1,000  =  27,000,  divided  by  1 8,000  =  i>£  D.H.P. 

For  the  D.H.P.  of  a  two-cycle  motor  proceed  in  the 
same  manner,  but  divide  by  13,500.  Thus,  a  two-cycle 
motor  with  3-in.  bore,  3-in.  stroke,  and  operating  at 
1,000  revolutions,  would  show  3  X3  X3  X  1,000  =  27,000, 
divided  by  13,500,  or  2  D.H.P. 

Usually  motors  are  tested  by  some  form  of  pressure 
brake  and  the  D.H.P.  thus  obtained  is  called  Brake 
Horse-power.  Such  tests  are  reliable  and  accurate, 
but  it  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  motors  while 
undergoing  these  factory  tests  are  operated  under  the 
most  favorable  conditions  and  by  skilled  engineers  and 
mechanics;  and  the  same  motor  that  delivers  10  H.P. 
under  a  factory  brake-test  may  not  deliver  over  6  H.P. 
when  installed  and  operated  by  yourself. 

It  is  far  better  to  have  too  much  power  than  too  little, 
and  a  few  horse-power  more  or  less  makes  little  difference 
in  price.  All  other  things  considered  you  should  choose 
the  motor  having  the  longest  stroke  and  largest  diameter 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  31 

and  operating  at  a  medium  speed.  High  speed  means 
short  life,  and  large  bore  and  short  stroke  mean  high 
speed.  Extreme  long  stroke  and  small  bore,  however, 
mean  slow  speed  and  additional  weight,  and  an  excess 
of  either  is  undesirable. 

With  these  remarks  on  the  operation  and  principle 
of  gasolene  engines  in  general,  we  will  now  take  up  the 
matter  of  the  various  motors  and  their  parts  and  acces- 
sories in  detail. 


CHAPTER  II 

TWO-CYCLE  OR  TWO-STROKE  MOTORS 

THE  two-cycle  motor  already  described  and  figured 
in  the  preceding  chapter  is  known  as  the  Two-port  motor 
from  the  fact  that  there  are  but  two  openings,  or  ports, 
from  the  cylinder.  Another  form  of  two-cycle  motor 
in  common  use  is  known  as  the  Three-port  motor  (Fig.  9) . 
The  operation  of  this  motor  is  essentially  the  same  as 
the  two-port  type,  but  in  addition  to  the  two  ports 
this  motor  has  a  third  port  or  opening,  A ,  which  is  closed 
by  the  piston  acting  as  a  sliding  valve.  On  the  downward 
stroke  of  this  motor  the  third  port  is  closed  as  shown 
in  the  figure,  while  the  gas  in  the  base  is  forced  up  to  the 
top  of  the  cylinder  through  the  by-pass  B.  On  the  up- 
ward stroke  the  gas  is  sucked  into  the  cylinder  through 
the  port  A,  as  in  the  two-port  type.  The  only  advantage 
of  this  type  of  motor  over  the  two-port  is  that  no  check 
valve  is  required  in  the  inlet  for  fuel  at  A.  It  is  usually 
a  high-speed  engine,  and  as  a  partial  vacuum  is  created 
in  the  base  on  the  upward  or  suction  stroke  and  a  con- 
siderable pressure  must  be  maintained  on  the  downward 
stroke,  tight  bearings  and  joints  are  essential  and  these, 
especially  in  a  marine  engine,,  are  hard  to  retain  for  any 
length  of  time.  Many  of  the  more  recent  types  of  two- 
cycle  engines  are  constructed  so  that  either  a  two-  or 
three-port  system  may  be  used  as  desired.  A  very 
successful  motor  of  this  design  is  the  Gray  Model  "T," 

32 


THEIR      OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


33 


illustrated  in   Fig.    10.     Almost  any  good  three-port 
motor  may,  however,  be  transformed  to  a  two-port 


Fig.  9. — Three-port  Motor 

engine   even   after  its   efficiency   as  a   three-port  has 
expired. 

Many  of  the  best  so-called  two-port  motors  are  in 
reality  a  sort  of  combination  of  the  two-  and  three-port 
3 


34 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


types.  Such  a  motor  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  n.  In  this 
motor  the  inlet,  or  fuel,  port,  instead  of  being  in  the  base 
as  illustrated  in  Chapter  I,  is  situated  in  the  by-pass  B 
midway  between  the  base  and  the  inlet  to  cylinder  C. 


Fig.  10. — Gray  Model  "T"  Motor 

The  operation  of  this  type  of  motor  is  precisely  the  same 
as  in  the  straight  two-port,  but  it  possesses  many  advan- 
tages over  either  the  two-  or  three-port  type.  The  suc- 
tion created  by  the  piston  is  greater  than  in  either  of  the 
other  types,  while  no  great  pressure  is  required  in  the  base 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


35 


Fig.  ii. — Two- three-port  Motor 


36  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

as  in  the  three-port.  The  fuel-mixing  device  is  elevated 
more  than  in  the  two-port,  which  is  a  distinct  advantage 
in  a  boat,  and  the  gas  or  vapor  striking  on  the  walls  of 
the  by-pass,  instead  of  on  the  base  of  the  engine,  results 
in  far  better  vaporization  and  consequently  better 
combustion.  The  walls  of  the  base  are  usually  cold  or 
nearly  so  and  the  mixture  of  gasolene  and  air  tends 
to  cool  them  off  even  more;  whereas  in  the  motor  under 
consideration  the  walls  of  the  by-pass  are  always  warm 
while  the  motor  is  in  operation  and  the  mixture  of  gaso- 
lene and  air  striking  this  warm  metal  is  immediately 
thoroughly  vaporized.  Many  of  the  motors  of  this  type 
have  an  opening  in  the  base  into  which  the  fuel  intake 
may  be  screwed.  In  such  cases  the  operator  may  use 
his  motor  as  a  regular  two-port  or  as  a  combination  as 
desired.  In  many  motors  of  this  class  very  superior 
results  are  obtained  by  attaching  an  auxiliary  air  inlet 
in  the  base.  This  is  closed  when  starting  or  running 
slowly,  but  when  running  at  high  speed  is  gradually 
opened  until  the  best  possible  results  are  obtained. 
Such  an  auxiliary  inlet  is  shown  in  Fig.  12  (A),  and  is 
known  as  an  "Accelerator." 

Two-cycle  motors  are  also  made  which  possess  some 
of  the  best  features  of  both  the  two-  and  three-port 
types.  An  example  of  this  style  of  engine  is  the  Crasser 
motor  illustrated  in  Fig.  13.  This  motor  has  a  vaporizer 
A,  as  well  as  an  automatic  air  valve  B,  a  third  port  C, 
and  a  transfer  port  D,  which  acts  as  the  second  port  on  a 
two-port  motor.  In  operation  the  piston  on  its  upward 
stroke  draws  a  charge  through  the  vaporizer  A  into  the 
crank  case  E,  until  it  reaches  a  point  where  the  third 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  37 


Fig.  12. — Two-three-port  Motor  with  Accelerator 


38 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  13. — Crasser  Motor 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        39 

port  C  is  uncovered.  This  permits  the  vacuum  remaining 
to  be  displaced  by  air  through  the  air  valve  B.  As  soon 
as  the  piston  starts  on  its  downward  stroke  the  valve  in 
A  closes  and  the  charge  in  the  base  is  forced  up  through 
the  transfer  port  D  into  the  cylinder.  This  arrangement 
permits  of  a  large,  full  charge  of  gas  with  consequently 
higher  compression,  more  power,  and  freedom  from 
crank-case  explosions.  In  this  motor  the  ports  are 
placed  in  the  forward  and  rear  sides  of  the  cylinders: 
by  this  method  the  piston  and  cylinders  wear  longer 
than  if  the  ports  were  cut  in  the  sides  of  the  cylinder 
walls  as  the  main  thrust  of  a  piston  is  sideways. 

Still  another  type  of  two-cycle  engine  is  so  constructed 
as  to  admit  the  charge  from  the  base  through  a  port  in 
the  piston  walls  and  hence  through  a  by-pass  and  valve  in 
the  top  of  the  cylinder.  The  Smalley  engine  is  of  this 
design,  and  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  14.  On  the  upward 
stroke  of  the  piston  a  charge  of  gas  is  drawn  through 
the  fuel  inlet  A  into  the  crank  case  B.  When  the  piston 
starts  downward  this  vapor  is  brought  under  compression 
until  the  piston  reaches  the  lowest  point  of  its  stroke, 
whereupon  the  port  C  in  the  piston  comes  into  line  with 
the  port  D  in  the  cylinder,  thus  allowing  the  compressed 
gas  to  rush  up  through  the  by-pass  E  and  through  the 
valve  Fj  into  the  top  of  the  cylinder.  At  the  commence- 
ment of  the  upward  stroke  of  the  piston  the  valve  F 
closes  by  the  spring  G,  and  the  gas  held  in  the  top  of  the 
cylinder  is  compressed  and  ignited;  the  piston  is  driven 
down  and  the  exhaust  gas  passes  out  through  the  open- 
ing H,  as  usual.  This  motor  has  several  advantages, 
not  the  least  of  which  is  the  cooling  effect  on  the  piston 


40 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


of  the  fresh  charge  of  cool  gas  rushing  through  it  at 
each  stroke.  The  fresh  charge  coming  directly  in  from 
the  head  of  the  cylinder  also  serves  to  drive  out  all 


Fig.  14. — Smalley  Motor 

traces  of  burnt  gas  and  results  in  a  cleaner  and  better 
charge  for  firing.  The  only  disadvantage  in  this  engine 
lies  in  the  inlet  valve  in  the  cylinder  head.  This  valve 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE  41 

in  time  will  wear  and  cause  loss  of  compression  and  will 
require  regrinding  as  often  as  the  valves  of  a  four- 
cycle motor,  and  to  the  ordinary  operator  grinding  of 
valves  is  a  bugbear.  Moreover,  if  the  valve  sticks,  or 
the  spring  breaks,  the  motor  is  temporarily  put  out  of 
service,  and  usually  such  accidents  occur  at  the  most 
inopportune  and  critical  times;  a  similar  engine  with 
mechanically  operated  valve  might  be  more  satisfactory. 
Several  good  motors  of  the  two-cycle  type  are  now 
constructed  with  an  open  base,  or,  in  other  words, 
without  the  closed  crank  case  usually  seen.  This  style 
of  motor  has  many  advantages  over  a  closed-base  engine. 
All  the  working  parts  of  the  crank,  shaft,  etc.,  are  readily 
accessible  for  adjusting  and  oiling,  and  any  danger  of 
leakage  and  loss  of  compression  in  the  base  is  obviated. 
An  engine  of  this  style  of  construction,  made  by  the 
Powell  Engine  Co.,  is  shown  in  Fig.  15.  As  will  be  seen 
by  the  diagram  the  piston  P  is  hollow,  and  below  it  and 
above  the  base  a  compression  plate  A  is  placed  through 
which  the  piston  rod  slides.  Below  the  compression  plate 
the  piston  rod  is  pivoted  to  the  connecting  rod  B,  at  the 
cross-head  C,  which  is  a  part  of  the  same  casting  as  the 
piston  rod  itself.  On  the  upward  stroke  of  the  piston 
the  gas  is  drawn  into  the  space  D,  between  the  piston  P 
and  the  compression  plate  A,  through  the  inlet  port  E. 
On  the  downward  stroke  the  gas  is  forced  up  through  the 
by-pass  F,  to  the  port  G,  and  thence  to  top  of  cylinder, 
exactly  as  in  the  ordinary  two-port  motor.  After  the 
explosion  occurs  the  exhaust  gases  pass  out  through  the 
port  H.  This  motor  possesses  stronger  compression  than 
in  a  closed-base  engine  for  forcing  the  charge  into  the 


42 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  15. — Powell  Open-base  Motor 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  43 

cylinder,  with  a  result  that  a  quicker  firing  charge  is 
obtained  and  also  better  scavenging  of  the  burnt  gases. 
The  carburetor  may  be  placed  far  lower  than  the  lowest 
level  of  the  cylinder,  thus  eliminating  any  danger  of 
flooding,  while  the  straight  thrust  of  the  piston  rod  and 
cross-head  bearing  do  away  with  all  side  wear  on  the 
piston  and  cylinder  walls.  The  cold  charge  of  gas 
inside  the  piston  also  helps  materially  to  cool  the  same, 
while  the  heat  from  the  piston  aids  in  better  vaporization 
of  the  gas  before  its  transfer  to  the  firing  chamber. 
The  only  objection  to  this  type  of  motor  is  the  additional 
height  made  necessary  by  the  cross-head  and  connecting 
rod  below  the  cylinder  level.  In  stationary  or  marine 
use  this  is  no  serious  objection,  but  for  vehicle  use  it 
would  necessitate  a  very  high  engine  hood  or  small 
clearance  beneath  the  shaft. 

Several  makers  of  two-port  motors  have  also  resorted 
to  placing  a  throttle  valve  in  the  by-pass  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1 6  (r),  and  while  the  speed  and  power  of  a  motor 
so  equipped  may  be  controlled  to  some  extent  by  this 
arrangement,  yet  as  a  rule  I  have  found  them  rather 
unsatisfactory.  A  throttle  on  the  fuel-mixing  apparatus 
is  far  more  reliable  and  easier  to  adjust.  Some  motors 
are  also  manufactured  with  a  fourth,  or  air,  port,  and 
wonderful  results  are  claimed  for  this  type  of  motor. 
Undoubtedly  it  possesses  many  good  points,  but  as  a 
rule  the  fewer  ports  there  are  the  more  reliable  the  engine. 
To  obtain  the  best  results  each  port  must  be  accurately 
designed  and  finished,  and  in  a  small  engine  the  varia- 
tion of  a  small  fraction  of  an  inch  in  the  size  of  one  or 
more  ports  will  make  a  wonderful  difference  in  the 


44 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  16.— Motor  with  Throttle  in  By-pass 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        45 

power  and  operation  of  the  motor.  Moreover,  the  first 
part  of  a  motor  that  wears  loose  is  generally  the  piston 
or  the  connecting  rod  between  the  piston  and  crank 
shaft.  As  a  slight  wear  here  causes  the  piston  to  have 
considerable  play  up  and  down  in  the  cylinder,  it  will  be 
easily  seen  that  the  variation  in  the  amount  of  opening 
of  each  port  during  operation  is  considerable.  With 
every  port  added  this  variation,  due  to  looseness, 
increases  the  resulting  variation  of  the  amount  of  fuel 
admitted  to  the  cylinder,  and  as  the  amount  of  play 
varies  quite  a  little  according  to  the  load  of  the  engine 
and  its  speed,  it  is  very  difficult  to  adjust  a  motor  thus 
worn.  In  fact  the  results  from  a  three-  or  four-port 
motor  with  a  loose  piston  or  connecting  rod  are  almost 
as  great  as  if  the  ports  were  rapidly  but  unevenly  opened 
and  closed  by  hand.  Any  one  can  thus  readily  under- 
stand why  a  strictly  two-port  motor  will  run  more 
satisfactorily  when  old  or  badly  worn  than  a  three-  or 
four-port  engine. 

Probably  the  most  reliable  and  efficient  two-cycle 
motor  yet  produced  is  the  Elmore,  which  is  used  in  the 
well-known  Elmore  automobiles.  This  motor,  which  is 
illustrated  in  Fig.  17,  is  entirely  distinct  from  most  other 
two-cycle  motors  and  in  its  construction  and  operation 
it  overcomes  most  of  the  objectionable  features  of  the 
two-cycle  engine.  The  figure  is  purely  diagrammatic 
and  represents  a  section  of  one  of  the  four  cylinders  and 
a  portion  of  the  base  cut  away. 

The  piston  of  the  Elmore  motor  differs  materially  from 
that  of  other  motors,  inasmuch  as  the  lower  half  or  base 
is  much  greater  in  diameter  than  the  piston  proper  (Fig. 


46 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  17. — Elmore  Motor 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  47 

iy-4).  The  up-and-down  motion  of  this  large  half  of 
the  piston  acts  as  a  gas  pump  and  alternately  draws  in 
gas  to  fill  the  lower  half  of  cylinder  or  base,  H,  and  forces 
it  out  under  considerable  pressure.  When  the  slightly 
compressed  gas  is  driven  out  of  the  base  it  does  not  at 
once  find  its  way  up  through  a  by-pass  and  port  into 
the  same  cylinder  as  in  the  ordinary  motor,  but,  through 
the  agency  of  a  gas  " distributor,"  is  introduced  to  the 
firing  chamber  of  another  cylinder.  This  " distributor," 
which  is  the  essential  portion  of  the  Elmore  motor,  con- 
sists of  a  revolving  cylinder  B  almost  surrounded  by 
another  cylinder  C.  The  chambers  thus  formed  are 
provided  with  long  ports  running  lengthwise;  those 
of  one  chamber  opening  on  one  side  of  the  distributor  D 
and  those  of  the  other  chamber  opening  on  the  opposite 
side  E.  In  operation  the  distributor  is  revolved  within 
its  casing  by  a  silent  driving  chain  from  the  crank  shaft, 
each  end  being  supported  by  spindles  and  ball  bearings. 

In  action  each  lower  half  of  a  cylinder  receives  gas 
drawn  through  the  outer  chamber  of  the  distributor. 
This  gas  under  low  compression  is  then  returned  to  the 
inner  chamber  of  the  distributor,  from  which  it  is  led 
into  the  firing  chamber  of  the  cylinder  whose  piston  is 
just  commencing  the  ascending  or  compression  stroke. 
Compression  and  explosion  then  follow  exactly  as  in  any 
other  engine,  and  the  operation  is  repeated  in  each 
cylinder  in  proper  order,  thus  giving  four  explosions  or 
impulses  to  the  crank  shaft  with  cranks  set  at  po-degree 
angles. 

It  must  be  borne  in  mind  that  the  chambers  of  the 
distributor  do  not  extend  through  its  entire  length.  The 


48  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

inner  chamber  B  is  divided  at  its  centre,  thus  dividing 
the  distributor  into  two  equal  parts.  These  two  parts 
are  connected  by  means  of  a  by-pass  F  which  is  opened 
or  closed  by  the  operation  of  the  throttle  G.  Until  the 
throttle  is  opened  half-way  the  two  halves  of  the  dis- 
tributor operate  independently,  with  the  result  that  the 
cylinders  work  in  pairs.  When  the  throttle  is  half- 
opened  the  central  control  automatically  opens  and 
the  power  of  the  motor  is  then  at  once  increased  through 
all  four  cylinders  operating  alternately. 

This  Elmore  motor,  although  apparently  complicated, 
is  in  reality  far  simpler  and  has  less  parts  than  the 
ordinary  four-cycle  engine.  Although  advertised  as  a 
"valveless"  motor,  it  is  not  strictly  a  valveless  engine, 
for  the  "  distributor "  is  actually  a  sort  of  rotary  valve. 
The  motor  may  therefore  be  considered  a  rotary-valve 
two-cycle  motor.  There  is  no  doubt  of  the  high  efficiency 
of  this  engine,  and  its  design  and  construction  mark  a 
great  advance  in  two-cycle  engines.  The  loss  of  base 
compression,  unequal  distribution  of  gas,  loss  or  waste 
of  fuel,  and  various  other  defects  of  the  ordinary  two- 
cycle  engine  are  entirely  overcome  in  the  Elmore,  and  its 
flexibility,  power,  reliability,  and  economy  of  fuel  are 
fully  equal  to  many,  if  not  all,  six-cylinder,  four-cycle 
motors  of  equal  rating.  In  comparison  with  four- 
cylinder,  four-cycle  motors  of  the  ordinary  type,  the 
Elmore  is  far  ahead.  The  trouble  and  difficulties  expe- 
rienced with  poppet-valve,  four-cycle  motors  is  absent 
in  the  present  motor,  but  the  revolving  distributor, 
chains,  numerous  rotating  ports  of  the  distributor,  and 
the  various  other  parts  must  be  perfectly  timed  and 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        49 

free  from  any  lost  motion  or  undue  wear  to  work  satis- 
factorily. These  various  parts  of  the  rotating  mechanism 
render  the  motor  far  more  complicated  than  the  regular 
two-cycle  machine  and  it  is  therefore  doubtful  if  this  type 
of  motor  is  so  well  adapted  to  the  ordinary  needs  of  the 
gasolene-engine  user  as  either  the  regular  two-  or  four- 
cycle engine.  As  a  vehicle  motor  it  is  most  efficient, 
and  for  this  purpose — for  which  it  was  designed — 
the  rotary  distributor  is  no  objection.  For  small  boat  or 
stationary  use,  however,  the  simplest  engine  is  the  best, 
and  motors  for  this  purpose  should  be  selected  which 
can  be  readily  repaired,  adjusted,  or  taken  down  and 
cleaned  by  inexperienced  hands. 

Two-cycle  motors,  as  well  as  those  of  the  four-cycle 
type,  are  usually  made  in  either  one,  two,  three,  four,  or, 
six  cylinders.  The  operation  of  a  multiple-cylinder,  two- 
cycle  engine  is  practically  the  same  as  in  a  single-cylinder, 
but  certain  parts  are  slightly  different  in  construction 
and  design.  In  a  two-cylinder  motor  the  piston  of  one 
cylinder  is  on  the  downward  stroke  while  that  of  the 
other  is  on  the  upward  stroke,  or,  in  other  words,  the 
cranks  of  the  shaft  are  set  opposite  one  another  or  at  an 
angle  of  180  degrees  (Fig.  18).  In  a  three-cylinder 
motor  the  cranks  are  set  at  120  degrees  (Fig.  19),  while 
in  a  four-cylinder  motor  the  cranks  may  be  set  at  90 
degrees  (Fig.  20  A),  or  at  180  degrees  as  shown  in  Fig. 
20  B,  C. 

Three-cylinder  motors  have  some  advantages  over  the 
two-    or   four-cylinder   machines,    but   they   are   more 
difficult  to  time  correctly  and  either  two-  or  four-cylinder 
engines  are  more  widely  used. 
4 


50 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  1 8. — Two-throw  Crank 


Fig.  19. — Three-throw  Crank 


Fig.  2oA. 


Fig.  206. 


20C. 


Fig.  20A-B-C. — Four-throw  Crank 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


51 


A  multiple-cylinder  motor  will  not  deliver  as  much 
power  in  proportion  as  the  same  number  of  cylinders  in 
separate  motors,  but  on  the  other  hand  they  run  far 
more  steadily  and  with  less  vibration  than  the  single- 
cylinder  engine.  Moreover,  they  are  easier  to  control 
and  if  one  or  more  cylinders  fail  to  work  the  engine  will 


Fig.  2 1 . — Cylinders  en  bloc 

usually  operate  on  the  remainder,  and  while  in  action 
the  faulty  cylinders  may  be  adjusted  until  all  are  in 
running  order.  Few  multiple-cylinder  engines  will  carry 
a  full  load  when  any  of  the  cylinders  fail;  and  as  a  rule 
such  engines,  as  well  as  all  but  the  smaller  single- 
cylinder  motors,  should  be  provided  with  a  clutch,  or 
gear,  so  that  they  can  be  run  free  from  a  load  when  so 
desired. 

Multiple-cylinder  motors  have  numerous  disadvan- 


52 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


tages,  especially  for  the  person  unfamiliar  with  explosive 
engines  or  other  machinery;  their  parts  are  far  more 
numerous  than  in  the  single-cylinder  motor;  they  are 
harder  to  " crank"  or  turn  over,  and  if  any  adjustment 
or  regulation  is  wrong  it  is  far  more  difficult  to  locate 
the  trouble.  In  case  of  a  serious  trouble  or  breakage 


Fig.  22. — Separate  Cylinders  on  Solid  Base 

a  multiple-cylinder  motor  is  more  difficult  to  take  down 
than  an  engine  of  one  cylinder,  and  in  many  makes  the 
entire  machine  must  be  taken  apart  in  order  to  reach  a 
break  or  injury  in  any  one  of  the  cylinders  or  its  parts. 
Multiple-cylinder  engines  of  the  two-cycle  type  are 
made  either  "en  bloc"  with  the  several  cylinders  in  one 
casting  (Fig.  21),  or  are  built  up  of  several  separate 
cylinders  bolted  to  a  single  bed  plate  or  base  (Fig.  22). 
Each  of  these  systems  has  its  advantages,  for  while  the 
solid  casting  results  in  a  more  compact  and  stronger 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  53 

engine,  the  built-up  motor  is  easier  to  take  apart  and 
repair. 

For  vehicle  use  and  marine  work,  where  considerable 
power  is  required,  multiple-cylinder  motors  are  almost 
universally  used,  but  for  stationary  work,  except  where 
great  power  is  necessary,  single-cylinder  engines  give 
satisfactory  results. 

In  estimating  the  power  of  motors  with  several  cyl- 
inders the  formulae  already  given  may  be  used,  but  the 
square  of  the  bore  times  the  length  of  stroke  should  be 
multiplied  by  the  number  of  cylinders  before  multiplying 
by  the  number  of  revolutions;  for  example,  to  find  the 
D.H.P.  of  a  three-cylinder  motor  of  4-in.  bore  and  4-in. 
stroke  operating  at  500  revolutions  per  minute:  4X4X4 
X3X 500  =  96,000  divided  by  13,500  =  7^  D.H.P.  It 
must  be  borne  in  mind  that  these  figures  are  merely 
approximate.  The  only  method  for  determining  the 
exact  power  of  an  engine  is  by  actual  test,  but  the  use 
of  formulae  helps  a  great  deal  in  selecting  a  motor,  as  it 
gives  the  prospective  purchaser,  or  user,  a  reasonable 
idea  of  the  power  he  may  expect  a  motor  to  deliver  under 
normal  conditions  when  operating  at  the  number  of 
revolutions  indicated. 


CHAPTER  III 

FOUR-CYCLE  MOTORS 

To  a  person  familiar  with  two-cycle  motors  the  four- 
cycle engines  appear  extremely  complicated  at  first. 
With  the  number  of  moving  parts  reduced  to  the  mini- 
mum in  the  former,  their  operation  and  care  seem  easy 
and  their  mechanical  construction  and  principle  very 
simple.  In  the  four-cycle  motors  the  parts  are  greatly 
increased  in  number  while  the  moving  push  rods,  cams, 
gears,  and  springs  make  the  engine  appear  a  most  bewil- 
dering piece  of  mechanism.  This  apparent  complication 
has  done  much  to  prevent  the  adoption  of  four-cycle 
motors  for  light  marine  and  stationary  work,  for  many 
people  seem  to  think  a  skilled  engineer  is  necessary  to 
operate  one  of  these  motors.  In  reality  a  four-cycle 
engine  is  very  simple  if  we  study  it  properly,  and  its 
care  and  operation  are  almost,  if  not  quite,  as  easy 
as  those  of  a  two-cycle. 

In  fact,  a  good  four-cycle  engine  requires  less  personal 
attention  and  can  be  handled  more  readily  when  at  a 
distance  or  out  of  reach  than  a  two-cycle,  as  is  evident 
from  the  facility  with  which  •  automobile  motors  are 
started,  stopped,  and  handled  from  the  driver's  seat 
while  the  motor  is  completely  out  of  sight  and  reach. 
Four-cycle  motors  are  made  in  any  number  of  cylinders 
from  one  to  eight  or  more;  but  as  the  mechanism  and 
operation  are  identical  in  each  cylinder,  a  single-cylinder 

54 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


55 


machine   once   understood   will   render   any   multiple- 
cylinder  motor  intelligible. 

Four-cycle  motors,  like  the  two-cycle  engines,  consist 
of  a  cylinder,  piston,  base  or  crank  case,  connecting  rod, 
shaft,  and  fly-wheel.  In  addition  to  these  common 
parts  it  also  has  a  number  of  other  moving  pieces  whose 
function  is  to  operate  the  valves.  These  parts  are  known 
collectively  as  the  valve  mechanism, 
and  as  they  seldom  require  atten- 
tion their  complicity  need  cause  no 
worry.  As  in  two-cycle  motors, 
there  are  various  styles  and  vari- 
ations in  four-cycle  types.  The 
commonest  form  in  use  is  known 
as  the  poppet-valve  or  mushroom- 
valve  engine.  In  this  motor  the 
valves  for  the  inlet  of  the  vapor 
charge  and  for  the  outlet  of  the  ex- 
haust are  mushroom-shaped,  con- 
sisting of  a  rounded  or  flat  disk- 
like  head  attached  to  a  cylindrical  Fis-  ^.-Tappet  Valve 
shaft  or  spindle  called  the  valve- 
stem  (Fig.  23).  Nine- tenths  of  the  four-cycle  motors 
in  use  to-day  employ  this  style  of  valves,  and  their 
variation  consists  mainly  in  the  method  employed  to 
operate  the  valves  or  in  the  location  of  the  valves  in 
the  cylinder  casting.  As  the  valves  operate  but  once  for 
each  complete  revolution  of  the  crank,  it  is  necessary 
to  attach  the  valve  mechanism  to  some  form  of  gear  with 
a  ratio  of  two  to  one,  or,  in  other  words,  to  so  reduce 
the  speed  of  the  shaft  operating  the  valves  that  it  makes 


56 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


but  one  revolution  to  every  two  revolutions  of  the  motor 
shaft. 

This  may  be  accomplished  by  either  cog-wheels, 
worm-gear,  or  sprocket-wheels  and  chain.  Practically 
every  form  of  gear  is  used  by  the  various  makers  of  four- 
cycle engines,  but  the  worm-  or  screw-gear,  or  the  gear- 
wheels with  slanting  teeth  known  as  the  " helical  gear," 
are  the  most  satisfactory  and  are  now  generally  used. 


Fig.  24. — Valve  Mechanism.     Cadillac 

In  the  earlier  designs,  as  well  as  in  many  modern  motors, 
plain  cog-wheels  or  spur-gears  are  used.  These  work 
very  well,  but  wear  faster  and  are  far  more  noisy  than 
the  screw,  or  helical,  forms.  In  Fig.  24  the  valve  mecha- 
nism of  a  motor  using  the  spur-gear  is  shown.  In  'fne 
illustration,  T  represents  the  cog-wheel  attached  to  the 
engine  shaft,  and  S  a  gear  of  twice  the  size  of  T,  attached 
to  a  separate  shaft.  Keyed  to  this  shaft  is  a  cam  R, 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  57 

which  turns  against  the  roller  Q  pivoted  in  the  push- 
rod  P.  As  the  engine  shaft  revolves  in  the  direction 
indicated  by  the  arrows,  the  wheel  S  revolves  at  half 
the  speed  and  in  the  opposite  direction.  When  the  cam 
R  runs  against  the  push-rod  P,  it  pushes  it  outward 
against  the  bell  crank  0.  This  in  turn  presses  the 
valve  stem  L  upward  and  lifts  the  outlet  valve  H  from 
its  seat  /,  thus  allowing  the  burnt  gas  to  escape.  The 
spring  M,  acting  against  the  valve  foot  N,  serves  to 
bring  the  valve  firmly  on  its  seat  and  to  cause  the  push- 
rod  to  follow  back  against  the  cam.  In  this  motor  it 
will  be  seen  that  the  inlet  valve  E  is  not  connected  with 
any  valve  gear  or  other  mechanism,  but  is  provided  with 
a  spring  C,  which  serves  to  keep  it  firmly  seated.  This  is 
known  as  an  automatically  operated  valve,  while  the  outlet 
valve  is  a  mechanically  operated  valve.  Many  motors 
are  built  in  this  way,  for  the  suction  of  the  piston  on  the 
intake  stroke  is  sufficient  to  act  on  the  inlet  valve  and 
cause  it  to  open  long  enough  to  admit  the  proper  charge 
of  gas. 

Although  several  excellent  motors  utilize  this  sys- 
tem, yet  they  have  many  disadvantages.  The  springs 
soon  lose  their  strength  and  liveliness,  causing  the 
valve  to  open  slowly  or  unevenly,  or  else  to  open  too 
readily  and  seat  too  lightly.  In  one  case  the  charge 
admitted  is  insufficient,  while  in  the  other  case  the  com- 
pressed gases  are  liable  to  escape  backward  into  the 
inlet  and  cause  loss  of  power  and  back-firing.  Moreover, 
in  case  of  a  leakage  around  the  piston,  or  in  the  firing 
chamber,  the  suction  of  the  piston  may  prove  unequal 
to  the  task  of  opening  the  inlet  valve  far  enough  or  long 


58 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


enough  to  admit  a  full  charge.  It  is  far  better  to  operate 
both  inlet  and  outlet  valves  by  mechanical  means  as 
illustrated  in  Fig.  25,  in  which  the  exhaust  valve  is 


'E 

ig.  25. — Mechanically  operated  Valves 

actuated  by  the  push-rod  and  cam  A,  attached  to  the 
cam-shaft  B,  and  the  inlet  valve  VI  is  also  operated  by 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


59 


another  push-rod  D  through  the  cam  E,  on  the  same 
shaft  with  the  exhaust-cam,  but  set  at  an  angle  with  it. 
By  this  method  there  is  no  chance  of  the  inlet  valve 
sticking  on  its  seat  or  failing  to  seat  and  if  the  cams 
and  gears  are  set  properly  a  uniform  and  correct  charge 
will  always  be  admitted  to  the  cylinder  at  exactly  the 


Fig.  26. — "L"-head  Cylinder 

right  time.  This  is  a  very  common  and  widely  used 
type  of  four-cycle  motor.  The  exterior  form  is  shown  in 
Fig.  26.  It  is  known  as  the  T-head  or  L-head  type  from 
the  shape  of  the  cylinder  and  valve  chamber.  More 
recent  still  is  the  valve-in-head  type  in  which  the  two 
valves  are  located  in  the  head  of  the  cylinder  instead 
of  in  an  offset,  or  separate,  chamber.  This  type  (Fig.  27) 
has  many  advantages  over  the  T-head  type,  and  is  now 
generally  acknowledged  to  be  far  more  effective  and 


60 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


economical.  The  two  valves  being  set  in  the  cylinder 
head  allows  the  interior  to  be  machined  smooth  and 
free  from  corners,  or  pockets,  where  burnt  gas  might 
accumulate.  The  incoming  charge  also  serves  to  thor- 
oughly fill  the  chamber  and  the  outgoing  exhausted  gas 
is  more  thoroughly  discharged.  The  cylinder  head  and 


Fig.  27. — Valves  in  Head 

valve  seats,  as  well  as  the  piston  head,  are  also  greatly 
cooled  by  the  fresh  charges  of  gas,  while  the  arrangement 
of  the  valves  allows  the  greatest  cubical  capacity  of  the 
cylinder  with  the  least  area  of  surface.  Most  of  the 
various  makes  of  poppet-valve  motors  vary  principally  in 
the  valve  mechanism,  style  of  gear,  and  other  minor 
details;  but  motors  with  rotary  and  sliding  valves  have 
now  come  into  use  and  in  their  perfected  state  give 
results  equal  to,  or  even  better  than,  the  best  poppet- 
valve  engines. 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        61 

The  Knight  Sleeve  Valve  motor  is  a  comparatively 
recent  invention,  but  has  won  its  way  rapidly  to  pop- 
ularity and  success  by  its  remarkable  performances 
in  several  well-known  makes  of  automobiles.  In  this 
engine,  which  is  shown  in  Fig.  28,  the  piston  is  surrounded 
by  two  cylindrical  sleeves,  or  tubes,  one  within  the  other 
and  both  between  the  piston  itself  and  the  walls  of  the 
cylinder  proper.  The  diagram  (Fig.  28)  shows  a  section 
cut  away  to  show  the  piston  P,  the  inner  sleeve  5,  and 
the  outer  sleeve  O,  while  C  represents  the  cylinder  walls. 
The  two  sleeves  are  connected  with  connecting  rods  and 
eccentrics  to  the  gear  shaft,  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  29,  in 
which  P  represents  the  piston,  5  the  inner  sleeve,  O  the 
outer  sleeve,  C  the  cylinder,  A  and  B  the  connecting  rods 
to  the  two  sleeves,  and  D  the  eccentric  attached  to  the 
gear  shaft  E.  The  gear  is  in  the  form  of  a  sprocket-wheel 
E  connected  with  the  main  shaft  by  a  roller  chain  F. 
In  the  sleeves  are  openings,  or  ports,  G,  H,  which  are 
alternately  brought  opposite  the  exhaust  and  inlet 
ports  in  the  cylinder,  I,  J.  In  operation  the  sleeve  O, 
sliding  past  the  sleeve  S,  brings  the  ports  G,  H  opposite 
one  another  as  well  as  in  line  with  the  inlet  port  /.  This 
occurs  on  the  downward  stroke  of  the  piston  and  the 
charge  of  gas  is  thus  drawn  into  the  cylinder  as  in  Fig.  30. 
On  the  upward  or  compression  stroke,  the  sleeves  move 
to  the  position  shown  in  Fig.  31,  in  which  the  ports 
G,  H,  I,  J  are  all  out  of  line  and  thus  closed  against  the 
escape  of  gas  from  the  cylinder.  The  charge  is  com- 
pressed and  fired  on  the  limit  of  this  upward  stroke  as 
usual  and  the  piston  driven  downward.  Near  its  lower 
limit  two  of  the  ports  are  again  brought  opposite  the 


62 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  28. — Knight  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Piston  and  Sleeves 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


63 


outlet  port  and  the  burnt  gas  is  forced  out  through  the 
exhaust  on  the  upward  return  stroke  as  in  Fig.  32.  This 
Knight  type  of  motor  is  practically  noiseless  in  operation, 
has  little  wear,  and  obviates  all  trouble  with  badly 
fitting  or  worn  valves  or  weak  springs.  It  also  provides 


Fig.  29. — Knight  Sleeve-valve  Motor;  General  View 

an  ample  and  uniformly  sized  opening  for  both  intake  and 
exhaust  of  gases,  and  tests  appear  to  prove  that  it 
actually  improves  in  efficiency  with  age  and  use.  The 
sliding  sleeves  must  of  course  create  quite  an  appreciable 
amount  of  friction,  although  it  is  doubtful  if  this  is  much 


64 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


greater  than  the  combined  friction  on  the  various  cams, 
push-rods,  valve  stems,  springs,  and  other  parts  of  the 
poppet-valve  motor.  Lubrication  is  very  essential  to  this 
motor,  for  if  allowed  to  run  dry,  or  to  overheat,  the 


Fig.  30. — Knight  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Section  to  show  Operation 

friction  on  the  sleeves  becomes  enormous  and  severe 
cutting  and  extreme  wear  soon  result. 

Rotary -valve  motors  are  now  being  made  which  work 
excellently;    and   the   Reynolds   motor,   illustrated   in 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


65 


Fig.  33,  has  proven  a  most  practical  and  reliable  engine 
of  this  type.  The  illustration  represents  a  view  of  the 
upper  portion  of  the  cylinders  with  the  rotary  valves  A 
in  place  in  cylinders  //,  ///,  and  IV,  and  removed  from 


Fig.  31. — Knight  Sleeve- valve  Motor;  Section  to  show  Operation 

cylinder  /.  The  valves  consist  of  circular  disks  A,  A, 
revolving  in  recesses  machined  in  the  cylinder  heads 
R,  R,  and  are  provided  with  openings  B,  which  correspond 
in  shape  with  openings  in  the  cylinder  heads,  C,  D.  The 
5 


66 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


stems  of  these  disk  valves  are  connected  together  on 
top  of  the  cylinders  by  means  of  spiral  or  helical  gears  E, 
which  are  in  turn  operated  by  a  geared  vertical  shaft  F 
connected  at  its  lower  end  with  a  gear  on  the  engine 


Fig.  32. — Knight  Sleeve-valve  Motor;  Section  to  show  Operation 

shaft*  On  the  suction  stroke  the  valves  are  rotated 
through  the  action  of  the  gears,  and  the  opening  B  in  a 
valve  moves  into  line  with  the  corresponding  inlet  port 
C,  thus  allowing  a  charge  of  gas  to  be  drawn  into  the 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE  67 


ig-  33- — Reynolds  Rotary  Valve  Motor.    Top  of  Cylinder  and  Valve 


68  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

cylinder  (position  IV).  On  the  upward  or  compression 
stroke  the  valve  continues  in  its  rotation  and  covers 
the  inlet  port  C  and  permits  proper  compression  of  the 
charge  which  is  fired  in  the  usual  manner  (position  II). 
After  the  explosion  the  piston  on  its  downward  stroke 
revolves  the  shaft  with  its  connecting  gears  and  thus 
rotates  the  valves  until  the  opening  B  uncovers  the 
exhaust  port  D,  through  which  the  burnt  gases  are  forced 
by  the  returning  piston  (position  ///).  This  motor  is 
too  new  to  judge  of  its  ultimate  future  or  general  adoption, 
but  it  possesses  many  advantages  over  either  the  poppet- 
valve  or  sleeve-valve  types,  and  where  it  has  been  used 
it  has  given  most  highly  satisfactory  results.  The 
exhaust  opening  being  a  trifle  larger  than  the  inlet, 
allows  a  full  and  perfect  scavenging  of  the  burnt  gas, 
while  the  uniform  and  accurate  opening  of  the  inlet 
and  exhaust  ports  is  fully  equal  to  the  same  results 
obtained  in  the  Knight  motor.  The  valves  being  of 
bronze  form  their  own  bearing  surface  on  the  iron  of 
the  cylinders,  while  the  constant  rotary  motion  and  the 
fact  that  they  are  always  firmly  seated  prevent  the 
formation  of  carbon  deposits.  Of  course  there  is  some 
wear  of  the  valves  against  their  seats,  but  adjustment 
for  taking  up  this  small  amount  of  abrasion  is  provided. 
•  There  is  comparatively  little  friction  and  the  valves 
are  provided  with  ball  bearings  at  the  upper  end  of  the 
stems,  while  the  action  of  the  spiral  or  helical  gears  is 
positive,  accurate,  and  practically  noiseless.  The  shaft 
gear,  vertical  valve  driving  rod,  and  valve  gears  are  all 
enclosed,  giving  the  motor  a  very  neat  and  clean  appear- 
ance, and  yet  all  are  readily  accessible.  Although  here- 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


69 


tofore  used  principally  as  a  marine  engine,  yet  there  is 
no  reason  why  the  rotary-valve  motor  should  not  give 
equally  good  results  in  stationary  or  vehicle  use,  and 
automobiles  are  now  being  equipped  with  this  motor 
which  will  doubtless  prove  most  successful. 
Another  rotary-valve  engine  which  has  recently 


Fig-  34- — Offset  Cylinder  Motor 

appeared  on  the  market  is  the  Russell  motor  manufac- 
tured by  The  Silent  Valve  Co.  of  America.  In  this 
engine  the  rotating  valves  are  conical  in  form  and 
through  a  special  arrangement  of  driving  yokes  and 
springs  the  valves  automatically  adjust  themselves  for 


70  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

wear  or  expansion.  Doubtless  many  other  designs  of 
rotary-  and  slide-valve  motors  will  soon  appear,  for  the 
present  tendency  of  design  is  to  improve  upon  the  old 
poppet-valve  mechanism.  For  general  use,  however,  it  is 
doubtful  if  this  type  of  valve  can  be  greatly  improved 
upon. 

Four-cycle  motors  vary  considerably  in  design  and 
arrangement  of  parts  with  different  makers.  These 
motors,  as  well  as  those  of  the  two-cycle  type,  are  often 
made  with  the  cylinders  offset  (Fig.  34),  a  system  which 
is  supposed  to  overcome  the  tendency  to  a  dead  centre 
and  which  is  used  to  a  considerable  extent  on  vehicle 
motors  but  has  never  become  general  on  marine  or 
stationary  engines,  but  is  a  special  feature  of  the  well- 
known  Ferro  engines.  Motors  with  the  cylinders 
horizontal  and  opposed  or  opposite  are  also  widely 
used,  and  this  arrangement  has  many  advantages  over 
the  vertical-cylinder  motors  and  has  been  adopted  by 
many  makers  of  marine,  vehicle,  and  stationary  engines. 
These  motors  are  very  compact,  light,  and  powerful, 
and  the  balanced  method  of  construction  gives  a  mini- 
mum vibration  owing  to  the  impulse  from  the  opposite 
pistons  overcoming  the  jar  and  rotary  tendency  of 
ordinary  motors  (Fig.  35).  For  small  vehicles  such 
motors  are  excellent  and  in  many  classes  of  boats  they 
are  far  more  convenient  than  the  regular  vertical  engines. 
Their  operation,  as  well  as  that  of  certain  " V-shaped" 
models,  is  practically  the  same  as  in  the  ordinary  four- 
cycle motor,  but  in  the  opposed-cylinder  type  the  two 
cylinders  may  be  adjusted  so  that  the  explosion  in  the 
two  cylinders  occurs  alternately,  thus  giving  an  impulse 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


71 


for  every  revolution  as  in  a  two-cycle  motor.  Multiple- 
cylinder,  four-cycle  motors  are  made  in  from  two  to 
six  or  more  cylinders,  but  in  the  four-cylinder  machine 


Fig-  35- — Opposed  Cylinder  Motor 

the  cranks  are  set  at  an  angle  of  180  degrees  and  are 
commonly  constructed  with  the  two  central  cranks  close 
together  without  a  central  bearing,  or  with  a  very  small 


72  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

one,  thus  allowing  the  two  middle  cylinders  to  be  more 
closely  placed  and  saving  considerable  space  (Fig.  20, 
B,  C).  This  method  is  possible  in  a  four-cycle  motor 
as  the  crank  case  is  open  and  is  one  continuous  chamber 
from  the  front  to  rear  cylinder.  In  the  two-cycle  motors 
the  crank  cases  are  separate  and  closed  and  it  is  therefore 
necessary  to  have  each  crank  separated  by  a  gas-tight 
bearing  on  the  shaft. 

The  fact  that  four-cycle,  four-cylinder  motors  have 
cranks  at  i8o-degree  angles  renders  such  motors  more 
irregular  in  the  pressure  exerted  on  the  shaft  and  causes 
more  vibration  than  either  three-  or  six-cylinder  motors 
of  the  same  type;  and  the  latter  are  rapidly  taking  the 
place  of  the  four-cylinder  engines  where  silent,  steady 
operation  is  desired. 

In  addition  to  the  ordinary  types  and  practical  forms 
of  both  two-  and  four-cycle  motors,  many  original  and 
remarkable  variations  in  design  and  construction  are  fre- 
quently patented  and  offered  for  sale.  Such  designs 
are  mainly  freaks,  and  while  some  of  them — such  as  the 
true  rotary  motor — may  eventually  be  perfected  and 
become  practical  for  every-day  use,  yet  at  the  present 
time  a  satisfactory  rotary  gasolene  engine  is  unknown. 
Among  these  freak  designs  is  the  type  illustrated  in  Fig. 
36.  In  this  engine  the  explosion  is  balanced  by  the 
motion  being  transmitted  through  the  levers  D,  F  to 
the  cranks  G,  while  the  explosion  occurs  between  the 
two  pistons  H,  H,  thus  driving  the  levers  D,  D  by  the 
connecting  rods  E,  E.  While  this  motor  actually  works, 
yet  it  has  no  advantage  over  any  other  opposed -cylinder 
motor  and  has  innumerable  disadvantages,  not  the  least 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


73 


of  which  is  the  extra  weight  of  the  various  moving  parts. 
All  these  levers,  cranks,  etc.,  also  add  a  great  deal  to 
the  friction,  while  the  loss  of  power  through  worn  bearings 
and  lost  motion  more  than  offsets  any  possible  advan- 
tages the  design  may  possess.  Numerous  motors  have 
been  designed  in  which  an  impulse  occurs  alternately 
at  opposite  ends  of  a  piston,  thus  giving  an  explosion  for 
every  stroke  of  the  piston.  Motors  of  this  design  are 
expensive  to  construct  and  the  difficulties  in  properly 


Fig.  36. — Freak  "Balanced"  Motor 

cooling  and  lubricating  the  connecting  and  piston  rods 
are  very  great.  In  very  large  sizes  such  engines  are 
in  use,  however,  and  give  excellent  satisfaction.  A 
detailed  description  is  not  necessary,  as  the  operation 
of  these  motors  is  practically  identical  with  single- 
acting  engines,  although  in  some  designs  the  mixture 
of  fuel  and  air  is  forced  into  the  compression  chamber 
by  the  action  of  a  pump  cylinder  operated  by  an  eccentric 
or  cam. 


74 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Both  two-cycle  and  four-cycle  motors  are  frequently 
made  in  horizontal  form  (see  Fig.  37)  for  stationary  use. 
For  such  purposes  a  horizontal  engine  is  often  superior 
to  a  vertical  machine,  as  it  gives  a  wider,  longer,  and 
more  stable  bed  in  proportion  to  the  height  from  floor, 
and  in  addition  it  permits  of  the  use  of  large  and  heavy 


Fig.  37- — Horizontal  Motor 

fly-wheels  which  give  steadier  running  with  less  vibra- 
tion and  decrease  to  a  minimum  the  liability  of  the 
motor  stalling  when  operating  under  a  heavy  load. 
The  operation  £>f  a  horizontal  engine  is  in  no  manner 
different  from  that  of  a  vertical  motor  of  the  same  type, 
and  hence  a  further  description  is  not  necessary. 


CHAPTER  IV 

PARTS  OF  TWO-CYCLE  MOTOR. — PARTS  OF  FOUR-CYCLE  MOTOR. — 
.COOLING  METHODS;  WATER-  AND  AIR-COOLED  MOTORS. — 
DESIGN  AND  CONSTRUCTION  OF  MOTOR  PARTS;  CYLINDERS, 
PISTONS,  PISTON-RINGS,  CONNECTING-RODS,  CRANK-CASES, 
JACKETS,  SHAFTS,  COUNTER'WEIGHTS,  BEARINGS,  GEARS,  CAMS 
AND  VALVES,  FLY-WHEELS;  ACCESSIBILITY. 

BY  reference  to  the  following  figures  and  explanations 
of  cuts  it  will  be  seen  that  the  number  of  parts  in  the 
two-  or  four-cycle  engine  is  not  very  great,  but  as  many 
of  the  smaller  parts,  such  as  the  various  bolts,  screws, 
nuts,  pins,  springs,  washers,  etc.,  are  duplicated  many 
times,  the  actual  number  of  pieces  used  in  an  engine 
is  very  large.  While  the  main  parts,  such  as  cylinder, 
shaft,  piston,  connecting-rod,  piston-rings,  crank-case, 
fly-wheel,  etc.,  are  identical  in  either  type  of  motor  as  far 
as  actual  numbers  go,  and  in  multiple-cylinder  engines 
are  merely  duplicated  for  each  cylinder,  the  four-cycle 
motor  has  in  addition  numerous  pieces  of  mechanism 
connected  with  the  valve  and  cam  shaft  that  are  wanting 
in  the  two-cycle  motor.  The  illustrations  represent 
motors  of  both  the  water-cooled  and  air-cooled  jump- 
spark  type.  Air-cooled  motors  have  fewer  parts  owing 
to  the  absence  of  pump,  water  pipes,  check  valves,  etc. 
(Fig.  39),  while  the  make-and-break  system  of  ignition 
requires  more  parts  than  the  jump  spark  (see  Fig.  40). 
All  gasolene  and  internal-combustion  engines  require 
cooling  of  some  sort  to  prevent  overheating,  warping, 

75 


76 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


PARTS  OF  TWO-CYCLE  MOTOR 
(Jump  Spark,  Water-cooled) 


A,  Cylinder 

5,  Water  Jacket 

C,  Piston 

D,  Piston  Rings 
£,  Piston  Pin 

F,  Connecting  Rod 

G,  Crank  Case  or  Base 

H,  Bearing  Head  or  End  Plate 

7,  Main  Bearings 

J,  Connecting-rod  Bearings 

K,  Piston-pin  Bushings 

L,  Counterweights 

M,  Oil  Duct  to  Connecting-rod 

Bearings 
N,  Crank 
O,  Crank  Shaft 
P,  Timer  Gears 


Q,  Gear  Cover 

'R,  Timer  Shaft 

S,  Timer 

T,  Fly-wheel 

U,  Fly-wheel  Locknut 

V,  Fly-wheel  Key 

W,  Ball  Thrust 

X,  Pump  Eccentric 

Y,  Pump  Plunger 

Z,  Pump  Packing  Gland 

PK,  Pump  Packing 

PB,  Pump  Body 

CV,  Check  Valves 

DC,  Drain  Cock 

FC,  Firing  Chamber 

SP,  Spark-plug  Hole 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


77 


Fig.  38. — Parts  of  Two-cycle  Motor 
Water-cooled,  Jump  Spark 


78 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


PARTS  OF  FOUR-CYCLE  MOTOR 
(Jump  Spark,  Air-cooled) 


A,  Cylinder 

AH,  Cylinder  Head 

B,  Radiating  Flanges 

C,  Piston 

D,  Piston  Rings 
DC,  Drip  Cock 

E,  Piston  Pin 

F,  Connecting  Rod 

FA,  Connecting-rod  Cap 
FC,  Firing  Chamber 

G,  Crank  Case 
GA,  Base  Plate 
H, 

I,  Main  Bearings 

J,  Connecting-rod  Bearings 

K,  Crank  Pin 

LL,  Counterweights 

M,  Valve  Driving  Gear 

N,  Crank 

O,  Crank  Shaft 

Pt  Timer  Gears 

<2,  Valve-gear  Shaft 


R,  Timer  Shaft 

S,  Timer 

SP,  Spark  Plug 

T,  Fly-wheel 

U,  Fly-wheel  Locknut 

V,  Fly-wheel  Key 
W,  Ball  Thrust 
X,  Valve  Gear 

F,  Valve  Cam 
Z,  Valve  Push-rod  Roller 
ZA,  Valve  Push-rod 
VE,  Exhaust  Valve 
VEF,  Exhaust-valve  Foot 
VEG,  Exhaust-valve  Stem  Guide 
VES,  Exhaust-valve  Stem 
VET,  Exhaust- valve  Spring 

VI,  Inlet  Valve 

VIG,  Inlet- valve  Stem  Guide 
VIS,  Inlet- valve  Stem 
VIT,  Inlet- valve  Spring 
IV,  Inlet 
EX,  Exhaust 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


79 


AH 


Fig.  39. — Parts  of  Four-cycle  Motor 
Air-cooled,  Jump  Spark 


80  GASOLENE   ENGINES 


EXPLANATION  OF  FIG.  40 
(Parts  of  Two-cycle  Make-and-break  System) 

A,  Spark  Plug  /,  Plunger  Spring 

B,  Movable  Electrode  K,  Rocker-arm  Spring 

C,  Electrode  Rocker  Arm  L,  Dog  Spring 

D,  Electrode  Spindle  M,  Slide  Bar 

E,  Electrode  Spindle  Bushing  N,  Slide-bar  Guide 

F,  Angular  Dog  O,  Ecccentric  and  Eccentric  Rod 

G,  Trip  Adjusting  Screw  P,  Pump 

H,  Plunger  Q,  Pump  Plunger 

/,  Plunger  Thimble 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARF 


Fig.  40. — Parts  of  Make-and-break  System 


82  GASOLENE   ENGINES  * 

and  seizing  of  the  cylinders  and  pistons,  and  this  is 
accomplished  either  by  means  of  air  forced  past  the 
cylinders  by  a  fan  or  blower,  or  by  water  circulated 
between  the  cylinder  proper  and  an  outer  covering  known 
as  the  water  jacket  (Fig.  38  B). 

Air-cooled  motors  are  usually  provided  with  flanges 
of  thin  metal  cast  on  the  cylinders  (Fig.  39),  to  aid  in 
radiating  the  heat,  and  are  little  used  in  comparison 
with  water-cooled  motors.  In  marine  use  the  water- 
cooling  system  is  used  invariably,  as  it  is  very  easy  to 
connect  the  pump  to  an  outlet  and  inlet  and  thus  keep 
fresh,  cool  water  circulating  through  the  jacket  while 
the  motor  is  operating.  When  used  for  vehicle  or 
stationary  use  a  radiator  or  similar  cooling  system  is  used, 
through  which  the  water  is  forced  by  the  pump,  and 
which,  by  numerous  thin  flanges  or  by  thin-walled  com- 
partments of  small  capacity,  tends  to  radiate  heat  and 
thus  cool  the  water.  In  stationary  engines  a  large  tank, 
or  hopper,  is  usually  sufficient  to  cool  the  water  through 
exposure  of  a  large  surface  to  the  air.  A  sheet  of  cloth, 
wire  gauze,  or  a  perforated  plate  is  often  used  to  aid  in 
cooling  the  water  from  stationary  motors,  as  the  hot 
water  from  the  engine  flowing  over  this  is  rapidly  cooled 
by  radiation  of  heat  from  the  large  surface  exposed  to 
the  air. 

Ignition  of  either  the  jump  spark  or  make-and-break 
spark  may  be  used  in  gasolene  motors  and  as  far  as 
efficiency  is  concerned  there  is  but  little  choice;  the 
make-and-break  system  is  electrically  simple  and 
mechanically  complicated,  while  the  jump-spark  sys- 
tem is  just  the  reverse — electrically  complicated  and 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


83 


mechanically  simple.  Ignition  systems  will,  however, 
be  dealt  with  in  detail  in  a  following  chapter  and  are 
only  mentioned  here  in  connection  with  the  various  parts 
of  the  motors. 

The  actual  value,  life,  and  power  of  a  motor  depend 
almost  as  much  upon  the  quality  of  material  used  and 
care  taken  in  the  construction  of  its  various  parts  as 
upon  its  design  and  proportions.  The  cylinders  are 
commonly  made  of  fine-grained  cast  iron,  and  after 
boring  to  the  proper  size  should  be  ground  to  a  mirror 
finish  and  fitted  to  within 
i/iooo  of  an  inch.  The  piston 
may  vary  considerably  in  shape 
and  proportion  with  different 
makes  and  types  of  engines, 
but  the  general  principle  of 
construction  is  the  same,  and 
cast  iron  is  principally  used  in 
making  them.  A  perfect-fitting 
piston  is  essential  to  a  good 
motor,  for  if  too  loose  the 
compression  will  be  lost,  where- 
as, if  too  tight,  it  will  bind 
when  hot  and  score  the  cyl- 
inder walls  or  prevent  the 
motor  from  operating.  It  is 
customary  to  test  all  pistons 
and  cylinders  by  limit  gauges; 


Fig.  41. — Piston  and  Piston 
,  Rings 


one  of  these  gauges  is  1/2000  of  an  inch  oversize,  the  other 
the  same  amount  undersize,  and  if  the  parts  fit  the  under- 
size  gauge  or  fail  to  fit  the  oversize  gauge  they  should  be 


84  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

discarded.  The  piston  should  not  fit  the  cylinder  too 
snugly,  however,  for  allowance  must  be  made  for  expan- 
sion when  hot,  and  in  order  to  allow  for  this  and  yet  to 
retain  gas  under  compression,  piston  rings  are  provided. 
These  rings  are  made  of  cast  iron  and  are  turned  and 
faced  on  a  lathe,  ground  on  the  sides,  and  are  then  cut, 
clamped  together,  and  ground  on  the  faces.  They  are 
made  eccentric, — thicker  on  one  side  than  the  other,— 
and  are  cut  with  a  diagonal  or  lapped  joint  on  the  thinner 


Fig.  42. — Piston-pin 

side.  The  rings  may  be  two,  three,  or  four  in  number  and 
are  placed  in  grooves  on  the  piston  and  are  usually 
pinned  in  position  (Fig.  41).  The  rings  are  slightly  com- 
pressed when  the  piston  is  inside  of  the  cylinder  and  their 
tendency  to  expand  keeps  them  pressed  firmly  against 
the  cylinder  walls,  thus  forming  a  gas-tight  joint. 

The  connecting-rod  may  be  either  of  steel  or  bronze, 
and  may  be  either  cast  or  forged.  The  upper  end,  which 
fits  inside  the  piston,  is  held  in  place  by  a  hardened  pin 
passing  through  the  piston  from  one  side  to  the  other 
and  known  as  the  piston  pin  (Fig.  42).  There  are 
various  methods  of  fastening  this  pin  in  place,  but 
set-screws  within  the  piston  (Fig.  43,  5)  are  perhaps  the 
most  satisfactory.  Some  makers  bush  the  pin  where  it 
fits  the  piston  walls  and  fasten  the  connecting-rod  to 
the  pin  (Fig.  44),  while  others  fasten  the  pin  to  the  piston 
and  provide  a  bearing  surface  for  the  connecting-rod 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE 


85 


head  by  placing  a  bronze  bushing  between  the  pin  and 
connecting-rod  (Fig.  45).  The  latter  system  is  preferable 
as  it  obviates  any  danger  of  the  pin  working  endwise 
and  scoring  the  cylinder  walls.  The  lower  end  of  the 
connecting-rod  is  split,  or  cut,  through  the  centre  of  the 
hole  bored  for  the  crank  shaft,  and  a  babbitt,  or  bronze, 
bearing  fitted  in  place  and  the  two  parts  clamped 
together  around  the  crank  shaft.  There  are  various 
methods  of  fastening  the  bottom  cap  to  the  rod  proper, 


Fig.  43. — Piston-pin  held  by  Set-screws 


but  a  hinge  on  one  side  and  cap-screw  with  double  nuts 
on  the  other  is  widely  used  (Fig.  46).  Other  makers 
used  a  loose  cap  held  to  the  rod  by  screws  on  either  side, 
and  while  this  method  allows  of  finer  adjustment,  it  is 
not  so  convenient  as  the  hinged  cap  (Fig.  47).  Crank 
cases  may  be  cast  from  iron,  steel,  aluminum  or  other 
metal,  and  may  be  made  either  solid,  with  one  end 
removable  (Fig.  48) ;  with  split  base  (Fig.  49) ;  with  both 


86 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


bearings  or  end  plates  separate  (Fig.  50) ;  or  the  upper 
portion  of  crank  case  and  cylinder  may  be  cast  in  one 
piece  with  a  separate  cylinder  head  held  in  place  by  bolts 
(Fig.  51);  or  a  combination  of  two  or  more  of  the  above 


Fig.  44. — Piston-pin  bushed  in 
Piston 


Fig.  45. — Piston-pin  bushed 
in  Connecting-rod 


may  be  used.  In  either  case  all  joints  should  be  turned 
and  faced  true  and  smooth  and  thin  gaskets  of  paper, 
or  similar  packing,  placed  between  the  ground  surfaces. 


Fig.  46. — Connecting-rod  with  Hinged  Cap 

Crank  cases  are  commonly  furnished  with  hand-hole 
plates  on  the  sides  (Figs.  50,  51,  H),  and  these  should  be 
of  ample  size  to  permit  tightening  or  adjusting  the 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


87 


connecting-rod  bearing  without  taking  down  the  motor; 
many  motors  are  made  in  which  the  hand-hole  plates 
are  so  small  that  they  are  absolutely  useless.  Of  course, 


Fig.  47. — Connecting-rod  with  Bolted  Cap 


in  four-cycle  motors,  the  base  being  open  and  the  entire 
side  plates  removable,  there  is  no  trouble  in  getting  at 
the  crank  shaft. 
In  small-sized  motors  it  is  often  easier  to  remove  the 


Fig.  48. — Base  with  One  End  Removable 

cylinder  to  reach  the  piston  and  crank  shaft  than  to 
attempt  working  through  a  hand-hole  in  the  base,  but 
in  large-powered  and  heavy  motors  the  hand-holes  are 


SO  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

preferable,  and  in  this  class  of  engines  removable 
cylinder  heads  are  a  great  convenience  as  they  permit 
the  piston  being  withdrawn  through  the  cylinder  by 
simply  removing  the  head  and  disconnecting  the  con- 
necting-rod from  the  shaft  through  the  hand-hole  plates. 


Fig.  49. — Split  Base 

Water  jackets  are  usually  cast  integral  with  the  cylinders 
(Fig.  38),  but  in  a  number  of  light-weight  motors — 
especially  those  for  vehicle  use — the  jacket  is  formed 
from  spun  copper  or  similar  material  and  is  clamped 
over  the  cylinder,  leaving  a  space  between  the  two 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


(Fig.  52).  This  method  is  very  satisfactory  where  fresh 
water  is  used  for  cooling,  but  for  salt-water  use  it  is  not 
advisable,  as  the  salts  in  the  sea- water  set  up  galvanic 
action  between  the  copper  jacket  and  the  iron  cylinder 


Fig.  50. — Both  Ends  of  Base  Removable 

and  this  soon  eats  away  the  cylinder  and  causes  rapid 
corrosion. 

Crank  shafts  are  perhaps  too   often  neglected  in  the 
smaller  and  cheaper  motors,  and  even  in  many  of  the 


90 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


larger  sizes  they  are  not  given  as  much  care  and  attention 
as  they  should  have.  Crank  shafts  bear  all  the»  strain 
and  pressure  of  the  explosive  impulses  and  serve  to 


o 


^v  ^ 


f   T 


Fig.  51. — Cylinder  with  Separate  Head 

transmit  all  the  power  to  the  machinery;  they  should 
therefore  be  designed  with  a  large  excess  of  strength  and 
should  be  forged  from  the  highest  grade  of  steel.  Open- 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE 


91 


hearth  .35  to  .45  carbon  steel  is  excellent  material,  and 
after  forging  into  shape  it  should  be  annealed,  which 
relieves  the  strain  from  forging  and  renders  the  steel 
tough  and  strong.  They  should  then  be  machined  to 


Fig.  52. — Water  Jacket  Clamped  On 

within  3/1000  of  an  inch  in  size,  and  finally  ground  to 
a  mirror  finish,  where  the  bearings  are  to  fit.  Many 
otherwise  good  motors  have  cranks  without  counter- 
balances, but  these  are  most  essential  to  single-cylinder 


92 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


motors  if  smooth  running  and  lack  of  vibration  are 
desired.  There  are  many  methods  of  fastening  counter- 
weights to  crank  shafts,  some  of  which  are  shown  in 
Fig.  53.  Malleable-iron  weights  fitted  to  the  crank 
and  dowelled  and  riveted  answer  very  well  and  are 
widely  used  (Fig.  54).  This  is  the  method  adopted  by 
the  Gray  Motor  Co.  Bearings  are  most  important  parts 
of  a  motor,  and  various  materials  are  used  by  different 
makers.  Babbitt,  bronze,  white-bronze,  and  various 


Fig-  53- — Methods  of  Fastening  Counterweights 

special  alloys  are  utilized,  and  each  has  its  advantages 
and  disadvantages.  Babbitt  is  excellent,  if  of  very  high 
grade,  but  will  melt  and  cut  badly  if  improperly  lubri- 
cated or  overheated.  Bronze  will  wear  well  and  will 
stand  considerable  heat,  but  will  cut  and  injure  the  shaft 
or  other  moving  parts  if  allowed  to  run  dry  or  wear  loose. 
Whatever  material  is  used,  the  fit  should  be  perfect  and 
the  bearings  so  constructed  that  they  are  easily  remov- 
able and  interchangeable.  The  Gray  Motor  Co.  uses  a 
very  high  grade  special  babbitt,  and  the  main  bearings 
are  very  long  and  so  constructed  that  they  are  removable 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


93 


and  interchangeable  in  a  few  moments  (Fig.  55).  In  a 
two-cycle  motor  the  size  and  length  of  the  main  bearings 
are  very  important,  for  if  worn  or  loose  the  crank  com- 
pression will  be  lost  and  the  motor's  efficiency  destroyed. 
Gears,  timer  parts,  and  all  water  connections  on  marine 


Fig.  54. — "Gray"  Counter  Weights 

motors  should  be  of  bronze,  or  similar  metal,  to  prevent 
rust  and  corrosion ;  and  if  quiet-running  gears  are  desired 
they  should  either  be  made  in  pressure  die  moulds  from 
bearing  metal  or  should  be  made  with  fibre  or  rawhide 
inserts  or  with  slanting  or  helical  teeth  (Fig.  33).  The 
particular  kind  of  gears  used  depends  largely  upon  the 


94  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

experience  and  personal  choice  of  the  manufacturer. 
Some  use  one  kind  and  some  another,  but  iron  or  steel 
gears  are  to  be  avoided  as  far  as  possible  unless  of  the 
worm  or  helical  type,  for  bevel  or  spur  gears  of  these 
metals  are  invariably  noisy  and  wear  rapidly.  The 
bearing-metal  gears  used  in  the  " American  motors" 
run  very  quietly  and  give  excellent  results.  These  gears 
are  cast  in  special  moulds  and  are  formed  under  several 
tons'  pressure.  Other  makers  obtain  equally  good 


Fig-  55. — "Gray"  Removable  Bearings 

results  by  using  fibre  inserts  in  the  teeth,  or  by  taking 
great  care  in  cutting  all  gears  on  special  machines  which 
insure  the  utmost  accuracy. 

Cams  for  operating  the  valve  mechanism  of  four-cycle 
motors  should  be  of  case-hardened  steel,  and  the  same 
metal  should  be  employed  wherever  severe  friction  or 
continual  pounding  occurs,  as  on  push-rods,  valve-stem 
feet,  rocker  arms,  etc.  Valves  are  made  of  various 
materials,  but  the  best  forms  are  those  forged  from  high- 
grade  nickel  steel.  Cast-iron  valves  with  steel  stems 
riveted  in  place  were  formerly  used,  but  it  well  repays 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE        95 

any  motor-owner  to  replace  all  such  valves  with  new  ones 
forged  from  the  best  quality  steel. 

Accessibility  in  a  motor  is  a  very  important  matter 
and  one  that  is  all  too  often  overlooked.  Many  motors  of 
excellent  design  and  most  careful  construction  are  so 
assembled  that  in  order  to  get  at  some  small  minor  part 
it  is  necessary  to  take  down  the  entire  motor.  Of  course 
it  is  practically  impossible  to  build  a  motor  in  which 
every  part  can  be  removed  without  disturbing  some  other 
part,  but  the  nearer  one  can  come  to  this  ideal  condition 
the  better.  Cylinders  should  be  removable  without 
disturbing  the  base  or  shaft,  and  all  piping  and  water 
connections  should  be  so  arranged  that  they  can  be 
easily  removed  or  disconnected  without  disturbing  the 
rest  of  the  motor.  In  this  connection  the  fly-wheel  is 
of  considerable  importance,  and  in  many  motors  this 
is  very  difficult  to  remove,  although,  in  order  to  reach 
the  gears  or  pump  eccentric,  it  is  necessary  to  remove  it. 
Wheels  that  are  fitted  to  a  straight  shaft  and  keyed  in 
place  often  rust  fast  to  the  shaft  and  are  almost  as  solid 
as  if  a  part  of  it.  While  it  is  absolutely  necessary  to 
have  the  fly-wheel  tight,  to  avoid  vibration  and  pounding, 
yet  it  should  be  fastened  in  such  a  way  that  it  can  be 
taken  off  without  special  tools  or  machinery.  Several 
makers  use  a  tapered  end  to  the  shaft  fitted  in  a  tapered 
hole  in  the  fly-wheel.  The  wheel  is  forced  on  the  taper 
by  a  large  nut  and  is  prevented  from  slipping  by  a  key 
(Fig.  56).  Such  wheels  are  usually  easy  to  remove, 
but  a  still  better  plan  is  to  use  a  bushing  of  bronze 
between  the  shaft  and  the  wheel,  as  this  prevents  the 
iron  wheel  from  rusting  to  the  steel  shaft  (Fig.  57). 


96 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Fig.  56. — Tapered  Fly-wheel  Shaft  with  Key 


Fig.  57. — Tapered  Fly-wheel  Shaft  Bushed 


Fig.  58. — Tapered  Fly-wheel  Shaft  with  Releasing  Nut 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  97 

Still  another  method  which  renders  the  wheel  easy  to 
remove  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  58.  This  consists  of  a 
tapered  shaft  with  shoulder  A,  which  is  threaded  and 
provided  with  a  nut  B.  The  wheel  is  forced  up  on  the 
taper  and  shoulder  as  in  the  ordinary  tapered  shaft 
and  the  nut  B  is  then  set  up  against  it.  When  the  wheel 
is  to  be  taken  off  the  forward  lock-nut  C  is  removed, 
and  by  turning  the  rear  nut  B  against  the  wheel  the  latter 
is  easily  forced  off  the  shaft.  This  idea  is  original  with 
the  author  and  has  been  employed  on  several  motors 
with  great  success.  Even  with  a  straight  shaft  and  key 
the  rear  nut  will  force  the  wheel  from  the  shaft  unless 
very  badly  corroded. 


CHAPTER   V 

MOTOR  ACCESSORIES — VAPORIZERS — CARBURETORS — COOLING  SYS- 
TEMS— FANS  AND  PUMPS — CIRCULATING  DEVICES — LUBRICA- 
TION— GRAVITY  AND  FORCE-FEED  OILERS — GREASE  CUPS — 
OILING  SYSTEMS. 

ALL  attachments  and  parts  of  a  gasolene  engine,  not 
actually  a  part  of  the  motor  itself,  may  be  classed  under 
the  general  head  of  Accessories,  for  while  these  various 
devices  may  outnumber  the  parts  of  the  motor  and  the 
latter  may  be  incapable  of  operating  without  them,  yet 
they  are  seldom  manufactured  by  the  motor  manufac- 
turers and  often  are  of  equal  importance  and  of  greater 
value  than  the  bare  engine.  In  fact  a  motor  without 
accessories  is  no  better  than  so  much  old  metal,  as  far 
as  use  is  concerned.  Nevertheless,  many  owners  or 
operators  of  gasolene  motors  who  are  very  careful  to 
purchase  or  use  the  best  motor  that  money  can  buy 
are  very  careless  or  indifferent  where  the  attachments 
or  accessories  are  concerned.  In  reality  most  failures  of 
gasolene  motors  to  give  satisfaction  are  due  to  faulty 
or  poorly  constructed  or  obsolete  accessories.  The  best 
motor  in  the  world  will  not  operate  properly  with  poor 
ignition  or  poor  vaporizing  devices,  whereas  a  poor  motor 
will  often  work  fairly  well  if  furnished  high-class  ignition 
and  fuel-mixing  apparatus.  Every  gasolene  motor  must 
be  supplied  with  some  sort  of  device  for  furnishing  the 
explosive  gas  and  for  so  combining  the  air  and  fuel  as  to 

98 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


99 


form  the  proper  mixture  or  "gas"  to  give  the  greatest 
possible  explosive  force  without  waste  of  fuel. 

Such  devices  are  known  as  mixers,  carburetors,  or 
vaporizers,  and  they  may  be  roughly  divided  into  three 
groups:  Vaporizers,  Float-feed  Carburetors,  and  Me- 
chanically operated  Mixers.  Gasolene,  benzine,  kero- 
sene, alcohol,  or  any  other  liquid  fuel  must  be  vaporized 
or  transformed  into  an  explosive  gas  by  mixing  with  air 


Fig-  59' — Vaporizer 

before  it  can  be  utilized  as  a  fuel  for  internal-combustion 
engines.  The  function  of  either  mixers,  carburetors, 
or  vaporizers  is  to  create  a  mixture  of  gasolene  or  other 
fuel  with  the  air  in  such  proportions  as  to  give  the  highest 
efficiency.  Vaporizers  as  a  rule  are  cheaper  and  simpler 
than  carburetors  and  are  not  nearly  as  satisfactory.  A 
common  form  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  59.  In  this  cut  A 


100  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

represents  the  inlet  to  motor;  B,  the  gasolene  supply 
pipe  or  inlet;  C,  the  air  intake;  D,  the  needle  valve; 
and  E,  the  check  valve.  The  gasolene  flows  through  the 
opening  of  the  needle  valve  D  and  the  amount  admitted 
to  the  motor  is  varied  by  screwing  the  valve  up  or  down. 
While  the  check  valve  E  is  held  on  its  seat  by  the  spring 
F,  the  opening  of  the  needle  valve  is  closed  and  no 
gasolene  flows  through.  As  soon  as  the  motor  commences 
to  operate  the  suction  through  the  inlet  A  draws  air 
through  the  inlet  C  and  this  suction  raises  the  check 
valve  from  its  seat,  allowing  a  small  jet  of  gasolene  to 
run  into  the  vaporizer.  This  gasolene  is  mixed  with  the 
air  as  it  rushes  through  from  C  to  A  and  passes  into  the 
motor  in  the  form  of  a  vapor  or  fine  spray.  By  varying 
the  adjustment  of  the  needle  valve  D  and  the  lift  of  the 
check  valve  E,  the  proportion  of  gasolene  to  air  can  be 
varied  to  suit  the  speed  or  condition  of  the  motor.  In 
theory  this  system  is  excellent,  but  in  actual  operation 
it  often  proves  faulty. 

The  best  form  of  fuel  mixer  is  undoubtedly  the  float- 
feed  carburetor.  A  number  of  makes  of  these  carbu- 
retors are  on  the  market  and  each  has  its  own  good  points 
and  advantages.  The  operation  of  all  is  very  similar 
and  if  one  is  thoroughly  understood  the  others  are  easily 
mastered.  A  form  in  common  use  and  which  invariably 
gives  most  satisfactory  results  is  known  as  the  "Scheb- 
ler."  This  carburetor  is  made  in  several  forms  and  types, 
varying  in  the  arrangement  of  air  and  gasolene  supply 
and  regulating  devices,  but  the  simpler  form  known  as 
"Model  D"  is  as  satisfactory  for  general  use  as  any 
and  is  far  easier  to  understand  than  the  more  complicated 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE, '  A&D   GARS' 


iOi 


models.  This  carburetor  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  60,  in 
which  R  represents  the  inlet  to  motor;  G,  the  gasolene 
pipe  inlet;  A-Ct  the  air  intake;  D-E,  the  needle  valve; 
O,  the  automatic  air  valve;  F,  the  float;  and  H,  the 
float  valve.  The  flow  of  gasolene  fills  the  float  chamber  B 
until  the  float  F  rises  upward  and  shuts  off  the  supply 

MODEL  "D" 


Fig.  60. — Schebler  Carburetor 

by  the  float  valve  H.  As  long  as  the  motor  is  inactive 
this  level  remains  constant  and  no  gasolene  passes  into 
the  motor.  As  soon  as  the  piston  moves  on  the  suction, 
or  intake,  stroke  a  current  of  air  is  drawn  through  C  and 
across  the  opening  of  the  needle  valve  towards  the  motor 


162  'GASOLE'NE  ENGINES 

inlet  R.  This  draught  of  air  sucks  a  small  quantity  of 
gasolene  from  the  opening  of  the  needle  valve  and  this, 
gathering  upon  the  walls  of  the  air  passage,  rapidly 
evaporates  and  is  readily  combined  with  the  inrushing 
air  and  converted  into  an  almost  dry  gas  or  vapor. 
The  small  amount  of  gasolene  drawn  from  the  full 
chamber  is  at  once  replaced  by  the  automatic  action 
of  the  float  and  float  valve.  The  proportion  of  air  to 
gasolene  is  easily  and  accurately  regulated  by  means 
of  the  needle  valve  and  air  valve,  D  and  O.  It  is  usual 
to  regulate  the  supply  for  the  motor  while  running  at 
medium  speed  and  then  by  speeding  up  and  slowing 
down  so  adjust  the  automatic  air  valve  0,  by  means 
of  the  thumb  nut  W,  that  the  best  results  are  obtained 
at  all  speeds.  The  function  of  the  check  valve  which  is 
attached  between  carburetor  and  engine  is  merely  to 
prevent  the  vapor  in  motor  base  from  rushing  back 
through  the  carburetor  instead  of  upward  through  the 
by-pass  to  the  firing  chamber.  It  is  therefore  only 
necessary  on  two-port,  two-cycle  motors,  for  in  the  three- 
port  type  the  piston  itself  acts  as  a  check  valve,  while 
in  four-cycle  motors  the  mechanically,  or  spring,  actuated 
intake  valve  prevents  any  backward  pressure  of  the 
gases. 

This  carburetor,  as  well  as  those  of  other  makes  and 
most  vaporizers,  is  also  provided  with  a  throttle  valve 
K,  operated  by  a  lever  P,  and  which  shuts  off  all  or  a 
portion  of  the  gas  entering  the  chamber  of  the  motor 
by  closing  the  opening  R.  This  lever  may  be  so  adjusted 
by  the  set-screw  5  that  the  throttle  cannot  be  com- 
pletely closed,  but  will  serve  to  feed  just  the  right 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


103 


amount  of  vapor  to  operate  the  motor  at  the  slowest 
possible  speed. 

Another  excellent  carburetor  of  the  float-feed  type  is 
the  "Krice"  illustrated  in  Fig.  61.  In  this  carburetor 
C  is  the  motor  connection,  D  the  cylindrical  throttle; 
E  the  annular  gasolene  openings;  F  the  gasolene  level 


K 


Fig.  61. — Krice  Carburetor 

and  float;  G  the  gasolene  bowl;  K  the  needle-valve 
adjustment;  L  the  throttle  lever;  M  the  air  intake; 
R  the  inlet  valve  operated  by  the  float;  T  the  gasolene 
connection;  U  the  needle  valve;  and  V  the  drain  cock. 
The  advantages  claimed  for  this  carburetor  are  that  the 
gasolene,  instead  of  being  drawn  from  the  needle-valve 
opening  direct,  is  drawn  through  a  narrow  slit  or  open- 
ing nearly  three  inches  in  circumference  and  i/ioo  of  an 
inch  wide  and  is  vaporized  within  the  chamber  H,  thus 


104  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

producing  more  rapid  evaporation  and  drier  gas.  The 
throttle  D  is  also  novel,  being  semi-cylindrical  in  form, 
and  not  only  acts  as  a  throttle,  but  also  as  an  air  adjust- 
ment for  varying  speeds  of  the  motor. 

Still  another  excellent  type  of  float-feed  carburetor 


Fig.  62. — Kingston  Carburetor 

is  the  "  Kings  ton"  illustrated  in  Fig.  62.  This  car- 
buretor acts  on  the  same  general  principle  as  those 
already  described,  but  has  five  supplemental  air-suppl} 
inlets  which  are  automatically  opened  and  closed  by 
bronze  balls  M,  which  float  within  the  retainers  N  at 
high  speeds,  but  close  against  their  seats  at  slow  speed, 
thus  doing  away  with  the  more  uncertain  spring  action 
of  other  automatic  air- regulating  devices.  As  a  rule 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


105 


the  simpler  and  more  positive  the  better  in  carburetor 
design,  for  a  slight  derangement  in  any  part  will  result 
in  variation  of  mixture  and  loss  of  power  or  stoppage  of 
the  motor. 

A  form  of  mechanically  operated  mixer  is  shown  in 
Fig.  63,  which  represents  the  mixer  used  on  the  Cadillac 


i         K  r 

J          v  ^G 

\    A — r-sr 


Fig.  63. — Mechanical  Mixing  Valve  (Cadillac) 

single-cylinder  automobiles.  In  this  cut,  A  represents 
the  inlet  to  the  motor;  B  the  gasolene  inlet;  C,  the  air 
intake;  D,  the  needle  valve;  E,  the  diaphragm;  F,  the 
valve  seat;  G,  the  adjusting  screw;  H,  the  mixer  binder; 
/,  the  needle-valve  spring;  /,  the  binder  screw;  and 
K,  the  adjusting-screw  binder.  In  operation  the  air, 
drawn  inward  by  the  suction  stroke  of  the  cylinder, 
causes  the  diaphragm  E  with  the  needle  valve  attached 


106  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

to  lift  from  the  valve  seat  and  thus  permit  a  small  quan- 
tity of  gasolene  to  escape  and  mix  with  the  inrushing  air. 
The  screw  G  bears  upon  a  spring  H  which  presses  upon 
the  top  of  the  needle- valve  stem,  and  this  spring  and 
screw  are  adjustable  by  means  of  the  binder  H  and  screw 
/  so  that  the  spring  exerts  greater  or  less  pressure  upon 
the  needle  valve  and  thus  allows  it  to  raise  higher  or 
lower  according  to  the  requirements  of  more  or  less  gaso- 
lene. When  correctly  adjusted  this  mixer  gives  excellent 
results,  but  the  adjustments  must  vary  with  climatic 
variations  and  the  conical  head  of  the  needle  valve  and 
its  seat  become  rapidly  worn  and  often  permit  too  much 
gasolene  to  enter  the  chamber. 

The  carburetor  of  a  motor  is  its  most  delicate  piece  of 
mechanism  and  has  been  aptly  called  the  "Heart  of  the 
Gas  Engine."  It  should  never  be  tampered  with  until 
everything  else  has  been  looked  over  in  case  of  trouble, 
for  it  is  often  the  work  of  several  hours  to  readjust  a 
carburetor  correctly.  It  is  a  very  common  fault  of  many 
operators  to  continually  fool  with  the  carburetor  or  even 
to  use  it  to  turn  off  the  supply  of  gasolene  by  screwing 
the  needle  valve  onto  its  seat.  This  is  a  practice  that 
cannot  be  too  strongly  condemned.  Turning  the 
needle  valve  against  its  seat  injures  both  valve  and  seat 
and  it  is  practically  impossible  to  adjust  it  once  it  be- 
comes rough,  burred,  or  bent.  A  regular  cut-off  valve 
or  cock  should  be  placed  in  the  pipe  line  outside  the  car- 
buretor, and  this  should  always  be  used  for  shutting 
off  the  fuel  supply  when  the  motor  is  not  in  use.  A 
great  deal  of  trouble  with  carburetors  is  caused  by  water, 
or  particles  of  dirt,  getting  in  the  gasolene  and  finding 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE  107 

its  way  into  the  needle  valve.  A  gasolene-strainer 
should  be  placed  between  the  fuel  tank  and  carburetor, 
but  even  this  will  not  always  prevent  foreign  matter 
from  working  into  the  valve.  Practically  all  float-feed 
carburetors  have  a  drain  cock  at  the  bottom  of  the  cham- 
ber, and  this  should  be  frequently  opened  after  the  motor 
has  stood  idle  for  some  time  and  the  gasolene  allowed 
to  run  off.  If  the  gasolene  thus  drained  is  caught  in  a 
glass  bottle  or  similar  vessel  you  will  be  surprised  to  find 
how  much  water  or  dirt  frequently  drains  off.  On 
multiple-cylinder  motors  it  is  often  customary  to  use  a 
single  carburetor  with  the  intake  pipe  or  manifold 
attached  to  the  several  cylinders.  This  system  often 
works  to  perfection,  but  in  other  cases  a  separate  car- 
buretor attached  to  each  cylinder  proves  far  more  satis- 
factory. Frequently  on  two-cycle,  two-port  motors 
apparent  carburetor  trouble  is  due  to  the  check- valve 
spring  being  either  too  weak  or  too  stiff.  It  usually 
pays  to  have  several  springs  of  varying  strengths  on 
hand  and  by  experimenting  with  these  excellent  results 
may  often  be  obtained  when  it  is  impossible  to  get  satis- 
factory operation  through  carburetor  adjustments  alone. 
A  very  important  part  of  the  motor  is  the  cooling 
system.  In  the  case  of  air-cooled  motors  a  simple  fan 
driving  the  cool  air  across  the  motor  is  all  that  is  required, 
and  this  is  so  simple  and  so  easily  watched  that  any 
tendency  to  overheat  can  be  easily  attended  to.  In  the 
case  of  water-cooled  motors  the  system  is  far  more 
complicated,  and  overheating  may  be  caused  by  some 
portion  of  the  cooling  system  failing  to  operate  where 
it  is  very  difficult  to  locate  it.  A  very  simple  system  of 


108 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


water-cooling  used  in  many  stationary  motors,  and  in 
some  vehicle  motors,  depends  upon  the  well-known 
fact  that  hot  water  rises,  and  by  placing  a  hopper,  or 
radiator,  at  an  elevation  slightly  higher  than  the  motor 


=== 



_  _ 

Fig.  64. — Plunger  Pump 

and  connecting  it  to  the  water  jacket  the  water  con- 
tinually flows  through  the  motor  about  the  cylinder. 
This  system  does  not  prove  very  satisfactory  with  two- 
cycle  motors,  as  in  this  type  of  engine  the  explosion  at 
every  revolution  tends  to  heat  the  cylinder  walls  far 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  109 

faster  than  in  the  four-cycle  motors  where  an  explosion 
only  occurs  at  every  other  revolution,  thus  allowing  the 
motor  to  cool  off  appreciably  between  the  explosions. 
Usually  a  pump  of  some  sort  is  used  to  force  the  water 
through  the  jacket  and  around  the  cylinders.  This 
pump  may  be  either  of  the  plunger  type  (Fig.  64),  of 
the  gear  type,  or  of  the  true  rotary  type.  The  plunger 
type  of  pump  is  very  satisfactory  where  clear  water  is 


Fig.  65. — Rotary  Pump 

used,  but  in  marine  use  it  frequently  becomes  clogged 
by  bits  of  seaweed,  shells,  gravel,  or  other  matter  becom- 
ing wedged  between  the  check  valves  (Fig.  64,  A,  A) 
and  their  seats.  This  is  readily  removed  by  unscrewing 
the  check- valve  caps  (Fig.  64,  B,  B). 

In  addition  to  this  trouble  the  plunger  pump  is 
usually  noisy  and  requires  packing  around  the  plunger 
(Fig.  64,  C,  C)  in  order  to  keep  the  pump  from  sucking 
air.  Even  when  the  plunger  packing  is  as  tight  as  it 


110  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

can  be  made  without  offering  great  resistance,  there  is 
apt  to  be  quite  a  little  leakage  of  water  which  is  ex- 
tremely objectionable.  In  vehicle  use  the  imprac- 
ticability of  keeping  this  type  of  pump  tight  has  led  to  the 
almost  universal  adoption  of  some  form  of  rotary  pump. 
The  true  rotary  pump  is  a  very  simple  affair  and  may 
be  driven  by  belt,  cog-wheel,  sprocket-and-chain;  or 
by  similar  mechanical  means;  it  has  the  advantage  of 
operating  noiselessly  and,  moreover,  can  be  placed  at 


Fig.  66. — "Lobee"  Gear  Pump 

some  distance  from  the  engine  or  where  most  con- 
venient. A  common  form  of  this  pump  is  shown  in 
Fig.  65,  but  the  shape  of  the  paddles  or  interior  fans 
varies  with  different  makes.  This  style  of  pump  cir- 
culates a  large  quantity  of  water  at  low  pressure,  and 
where  a  longer  pipe  line  is  used  or  where  there  is  danger 
of  dirt  or  other  matter  partially  clogging  the  circulating 
system  the  gear  pump  is  preferable.  The  Lobee  gear 
pumps  are  typical  of  this  class  of  circulating  pumps, 
and  one  of  these  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  66.  These  pumps 
may  be  driven  in  either  direction,  but  the  water  will 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


111 


always  flow  in  the  direction  of  revolution  as  indicated 
by  the  arrows  in  Fig.  67,  A,  B.  For  this  reason  a  check 
valve  should  be  placed  between  the  engine  and  pump 
when  a  motor  is  frequently  reversed,  for  otherwise 
air  may  be  drawn  into  the  intake  pipe  and  an  air-lock 
formed  which  will  prevent  the  pump  from  working  satis- 
factorily until  the  air  is  forced  out  and  the  pump  primed, 


Fig.  67. — Flow  of  Water  in  Gear  Pump 

by  pouring  or  forcing  water  through  it  and  the  pipes. 
Marine  engines  should  always  be  provided  with  two 
check  valves  on  the  water  pipe,  one  between  pump  and 
intake  in  boat  and  the  other  between  the  pump  and  water 
jacket  (Fig.  38,  CV).  These  prevent  the  water  from 
flowing  back  from  the  cylinder  through  the  pump, 
thus  causing  air  in  the  pipes,  and  also  prevent  the  boat 


112 


GASOLENE    ENGINES 


PLUG    FOR 
DRAINING' 
WATER  CHANNELS    \t* 


Fig.  68. — "Ferro"  Water  Circulation  System 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  113 

from  flooding  if  the  pump,  engine,  or  pipes  are  below 
water  line.  With  a  rotary  pump  it  is  a  good  plan  to 
have  a  cock  or  valve  at  the  pump,  or  close  to  it,  as  in 
this  way  the  pump  can  be  primed,  or  oiled,  through  the 
cock  without  trouble.  Both  plunger  and  rotary  or  gear 
pumps  should  also  be  provided  with  a  drain  cock  at 
the  lowest  point,  from  which  all  water  may  be  drawn  in 
cold  weather  to  prevent  freezing,  and  there  should  be 


Fig.  68  a. — "Ferro"  Water  Circulating  System 

a  test  cock  between  pump  and  engine  so  that  by  merely 
opening  this  the  operator  may  readily  ascertain  if  the 
pump  is  operating  properly. 

The  water-cooling  system  in  the  Ferro  engines  (illus- 
trated in  Fig.  68)  is  unique  and  is  well  worthy  of  con- 
sideration. In  these  motors  there  is  no  exposed  piping 
or  connections  as  the  water  from  the  intake  is  pumped 
directly  into  the  water  jacket  by  means  of  a  plunger 
pump  directly  connected  to  the  shaft.  In  the  illustra- 
tions the  system  of  circulation  as  well  as  the  simplicity 
of  the  pump  are  plainly  shown.  After  leaving  the  pump 
8 


114  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

the  water  is  forced  through  a  channel  in  the  crank  case 
and  hence  up  to  the  jacket.  Entering  the  water  jacket 
the  water  divides  and  passes  up  on  both  sides  of  the 
exhaust  port  and  then  up  and  around  the  cylinder  to  the 
cylinder  head,  from  which  it  passes  into  the  exhaust 
manifold.  It  can  then  be  piped  either  directly  to  a  tank, 
to  the  outboard  connection,  or  can  be  led  into  the 
exhaust  pipe.  At  the  lowest  point  in  the  water  channel 
in  the  crank  case  there  is  a  drain  cock  from  which  all 
water  may  be  drained  from  the  cylinder. 

Almost  as  important  as  the  vaporizing  system  is  the 
lubrication  equipment,  for  if  allowed  to  run  dry,  or  with 
too  little  oil,  a  gasolene  motor  will  at  once  heat  up  and 
will  soon  be  ruined  beyond  repair.  If  fed  too  much  oil, 
carbon  will  accumulate  in  the  cylinder,  on  the  piston 
and  valves,  and  will  even  choke  up  the  muffler  and 
exhaust,  besides  causing  a  disagreeable  odor  and  excess 
of  bluish  smoke.  Lubricators  or  oilers  may  be  divided 
into  three  groups:  gravity  oilers,  force-feed  oilers,  and 
grease  cups.  Gravity  oilers  consist  of  a  tank  or  other 
receptacle  to  hold  the  oil,  with  pipes  running  to  the 
various  points  of  the  motor  requiring  lubrication. 
They  operate  by  the  oil  dripping  through  from  the 
reservoir  by  gravity,  and  in  order  to  aid  in  their  opera- 
tion a  small  ball  check  is  usually  placed  at  the  top  of 
the  oil  pipes.  This  class  of  oilers  is  in  general  use  and 
they  may  consist  of  either  a  large  tank  from  which 
numerous  pipes  lead,  or  may  be  merely  independent 
oil  cups.  Several  makers  now  have  glass-bodied  oil  cups 
with  several  feeds,  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  69.  For  small 
or  single-cylinder  motors  these  oilers  answer  all  require- 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


115 


ments,  but  they  require  frequent  refilling  and  the  best 
of  them  are  apt  to  leak  oil  and  become  greasy  and  dirty. 
Force-feed  oilers  are  very  different  in  principle  and 
construction;  they  consist  of  a  tank  or  receptacle  for 
the  oil,  within  which  is  a  compact  oil  pump  operated 
by  a  lever,  pulley-wheel,  or  gears 
connected  to  the  engine,  and 
this  pump  forces  the  oil  through 
the  pipes  to  the  proper  points. 
As  the  pump  will  force  the  oil 
against  high  pressure  there  is 
no  danger  of  the  pipes  becoming 
clogged  or  the  oil  failing  to  reach 
the  bearing  surfaces.  On  some 
portion  of  the  oiler  there  are 
small  tubes,  enclosed  by  glass, 
through  which  the  oil  is  forced 
in  drops  in  exactly  the  quantity 
that  it  is  fed  to  the  engine. 
This  acts  as  a  sight  feed,  and 
by  means  of  plungers,  or  screw 
adjustments,  the  flow  of  oil  to 
any  or  all  pipes  may  be  regu- 
lated to  feed  the  proper  amount.  On  large-size,  mul- 
tiple-cylinder, vehicle  motors  or  any  motor  that 
operates  for  some  time  without  continual  observa- 
tion, the  force-feed  system  is  a  necessity,  and  although 
the  first  cost  is  more  than  for  the  gravity  oilers  the  results 
are  fully  worth  the  additional  outlay.  An  excellent 
type  of  this  class  of  oilers  is  manufactured  by  the  Detroit 
Lubricator  Co.  (Fig.  70),  while  those  of  the  Osgood 


Fig.  69. — Multiple-feed 
Oiler 


116 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Lubricator  Co.  are  illustrated  in  Fig.  71.  Grease  cups 
are  used  on  bearings,  shafts,  and  smiliar  places,  and 
consist  of  a  cup  which  is  filled  with  grease  that  can  be 
forced  onto  the  bearings  by  means  of  a  plug,  or  plunger, 
screwed  into  the  cup  (Fig.  75).  For  marine  and  sta- 
tionary work  these  grease  cups  answer  very  well,  but 
if  the  motor  is  provided  with  a  force-feed  lubricator  or 


Fig.  70. — "Detroit"  Force-feed  Lubricator 

a  tank  gravity-feed  oiler  it  is  better  to  oil  the  bearings 
by  the  regular  lubricator  pipes.  The  principal  points 
for  lubrication  are  the  piston,  piston-pin,  connecting- 
rod  bearing,  main  bearings,  and,  in  four-cycle  motors, 
the  gears,  cams,  and  push-rods. 

The  proper  amount  of  oil  to  be  fed  depends  largely 
upon  the  size  and  speed  of  the  engine  and  its  age  and  care. 
A  new  motor  will  require  more  oil  than  one  which  has 
been  operated  for  some  time,  while  an  engine  that  has 
become  badly  worn,  and  loses  compression,  may  often 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  117 


6cCTIONAL     VlEW 


Fig.  71. — "Osgood"  Force-feed  Lubricator 


118  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

be  made  to  operate  far  better  by  feeding  an  excess  of  oil 
which  serves  to  fill  the  leaks  around  piston  rings  and 
bearings  and  thus  hold  compression.  Usually  from  six 
to  fifteen  drops  per  minute  is  sufficient  for  a  well-cared-for 
motor.  Another  method  of  lubrication  that  has  many 
advantages  consists  of  oiling  the  motor  through  the 
gasolene.  To  accomplish  this,  oil  should  be  added  to 
the  gasolene  in  the  proportion  of  one  pint  of  oil  to  five 
to  eight  gallons  of  gasolene.  The  oil  and  gasolene  must 
be  thoroughly  mixed  and  this  may  be  accomplished 
either  by  stirring  them  together  before  placing  in  the 
tank  or  by  pouring  both  together  through  a  funnel 
with  a  strainer.  Another  method  is  to  mix  the  oil  with 
a  small  quantity — about  a  gallon — of  the  gasolene  and 
then  add  this  to  that  in  the  tank.  The  oil  thus 
mixed  is  held  in  suspension  in  the  gasolene  in  minute 
globules,  and  passes  with  the  gasolene  through  the 
carburetor.  Within  the  motor  the  gasolene  is  vaporized, 
while  the  oil  is  deposited  over  all  parts  of  the  interior 
of  the  motor,  thus  lubricating  it  very  thoroughly.  This 
method  gives  excellent  results  but  has  numerous  disad- 
vantages. If  one  has  a  private  gasolene  supply  where  the 
oil  may  be  properly  mixed  in  known  proportions  there 
is  little  trouble,  but  if  you  purchase  oil  or  gasolene  here, 
there,  and  everywhere — as  is  necessary  when  on  a 
cruise  with  a  boat  or  on  a  long  automobile  trip — it 
is  next  to  impossible  to  get  the  proper  proportions  every 
time;  either  too  much  or  too  little  oil  is  sure  to  result 
under  such  conditions,  and  in  addition  it  is  considerable 
trouble  to  stop  and  mix  the  oil  and  gasolene  every 
time  the  tank  is  refilled.  Moreover,  the  oil  passing 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE  119 

through  the  carburetor  has  a  tendency  to  keep  the 
carburetor  oily  and  accumulate  dirt,  while  oftentimes 
the  oil  becomes  gummy  and  hard  from  cold  weather, 
or  from  the  cold  generated  by  evaporation  on  the 
carburetor,  and  the  latter  then  becomes  clogged  and 
fails  to  operate  properly.  In  four-cycle  engines  the  oil 
often  accumulates  on  the  valve  stems  and  causes  them 
to  stick,  or  is  forced  into  the  exhaust  pipe  and  muffler, 
causing  clogging  and  soot. 

The  most  difficult  parts  of  a  motor  to  lubricate  suc- 
cessfully are  the  piston-pin  and  crank-shaft  bearing  of 
the  connecting  rod,  and  this  is  accomplished  in  various 
ways.  A  common  and  good  method  is  to  have  a  hole  bored 
through  the  piston-pin  and  another  through  the  connect- 
ing rod  connecting  with  the  former.  The  oil,  fed  into  the 
cylinder,  lubricates  the  piston  and  also  enters  the  hole 
in  the  piston-pin  and,  after  lubricating  the  bearing  at 
the  head  of  connecting  rod,  finds  its  way  down  to  the 
crank  shaft.  This  method  is  excellent  on  small  to 
medium-sized  engines  and  is  well  shown  in  Figs.  38,  M ; 
43  and  44,  O;  and  in  Fig.  74. 

To  lubricate  the  crank-shaft  bearings  still  more 
•effectively  a  splash  system  is  used  in  many  motors  in 
which  a  quantity  of  oil  is  kept  in  the  bottom  of  the  crank 
case  and  into  which  the  connecting-rod  cap  and  crank 
shaft  dips  at  each  revolution,  thus  splashing  the  oil  about 
and  lubricating  the  various  internal  parts.  Practically 
all  two-cycle  motors  lubricate  more  or  less  on  this 
principle,  for  there  is  always  an  excess  of  oil  accumu- 
lating in  the  base  into  which  the  crank  dips.  To  more 
evenly  distribute  the  oil  in  the  base  a  system  of  oil  rings 


120  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

is  often  used  by  the  best  makers  of  gasolene  motors  and 
has  been  adopted  on  the  majority  of  good  motors.  This 
method  consists  of  rings  attached  to  the  crank  shaft 
and  to  which  oil  is  fed  through  the  base  or  otherwise 
The  centrifugal  action  of  the  oil  rings,  which  are  slightly 
eccentric,  serves  to  keep  up  a  steady  and  uniform  feed 
of  oil  to  the  various  parts  of  the 
TW  crank  and  shaft  bearings.  This 
«  ring  system  is  far  superior  to 
the  splash  method,  and  is  illus- 
gjl  trated  in  Figs.  72  and  73,  which 
pp  show  the  ring  used  by  the  Buffa- 
lo Motor  Co.  and  the  crank 
Fig.  72.— Buffalo"  Oiling  shaft  with  rings  assembled. 

This  company  was  the  first  to 

introduce  these  oil  rings  and  they  have  since  been 
adopted  by  many  manufacturers  and  are  used  with 
various  modifications  almost  universally. 

A  unique  and  very  compact  as  well  as  highly  satis- 
factory system  of  oiling  is  used  in  the  well-known 
Ferro  motors.  This  is  well  shown  in  the  sectional  view 
illustrated  (Fig.  76),  and  consists  of  an  oil  tank  in  the 
base  of  motor  and  cast  integral  with  it.  This  is  filled 
by  means  of  a  filler  tube  (6)  which  rises  from  the  base. 
A  short  tube  fitted  with  a  check  valve  connects  the 
crank  case  with  the  tank  and  from  the  latter  another 
tube  (5)  leads  upward  to  the  sight-feed  distributor 
at  top  of  cylinder.  From  the  distributor  various  feed 
pipes  lead  to  the  points  requiring  oil.  In  operation  the 
pressure  in  the  crank  case  causes  enough  air  to  pass 
through  the  check  valve  into  the  oil  reservoir  to  force  the 


THEIR   OPERATION ,   USE,   AND   CARE 


121 


122 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


oil  up  to  the  distributor.  As  a  constant  pressure  is 
maintained  in  the  tank  only  a  very  slight  additional  pres- 
sure is  required  to  force  oil  to  the  sight  feeds  and  hence 


r 


Fig.  74. — "Gray"  Lubricating  System 

to  the  various  points  requiring  lubrication.  Aside  from 
adjusting  the  needle  valves  on  the  distributor  and  keep- 
ing the  tank  full  of  oil,  this  device  requires  but  little 


Fig.  75- — Grease  Cups 

attention  and  is  practically  automatic ;    operating  when 
the  motor  runs  and  ceasing  as  soon  as  the  engine  stops. 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  123 


Fig.  76. — "Ferro"  Lubricating  System 


CHAPTER  VI 

IGNITION. — PRINCIPLES  OF  ELECTRICAL  IGNITION. — DYNAMOS  AND 
MAGNETOS. — HIGH-  AND  LOW-TENSION  MAGNETOS. — THE 
Wico  IGNITER. — SPARK  COILS. — SPARK  PLUGS. — VIBRATOR. 
—TIMERS. — DELCO  AND  PERFEX  SYSTEM. — IGNITERS. — OP- 
ERATION.— COMPARISON  OF  MAKE-AND-BREAK  AND  JUMP 
SPARK. — ALTERING  MAKE-AND-BREAK  TO  JUMP  SPARK. 

EVERY  internal  combustion  engine  must  be  provided 
with  some  method  of  igniting  the  charge  of  compressed 
gas  in  the  cylinder,  and  while  in  the  past  this  was  accom- 
plished in  several  ways,  at  present  practically  all  gaso- 
lene engines  use  an  electric  spark  for  the  purpose. 
Electric  ignition  in  general  use  may  be  divided  into  two 
classes,  Jump-spark  and  Make-and-break-spark  ignition 
systems,  but  before  discussing  these  two  methods  in  detail 
a  short  explanation  of  the  general  principles  of  electricity 
as  used  for  ignition  purposes  may  be  of  interest.  Elec- 
trical currents  are  said  to  "flow"  through  certain  con- 
ductors, such  as  metallic  wires,  but  the  exact  actions 
of  these  currents  are  not  known.  It  is  generally  conceded, 
[  however,  that  the  current  does  not  pass  through  the  body 
of  the  metal  as  much  as  it  follows  the  surface.  A  clearer 
idea  of  electrical  action  may  be  obtained  by  comparing 
the  current  with  the  flow  of  liquid  through  a  pipe.  A 
liquid  in  a 'pipe  is  said  to  be  under  a  certain  pressure 
which  causes  it  to  move,  the  pressure  being  due  to  a 
difference  in  level  of  the  source  and  outlet,  or  caused 
by  some  mechanical  means  as  a  pump.  In  the  same 
way  an  electrical  current  has  pressure  or  voltage  caused 

124 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  125 

by  a  difference  in  what  is  known  as  a  potential  (see 
Glossary)  between  the  source  and  the  outlet;  thus  we 
have: 

Volts  =  the  unit  of  pressure  dependent  upon  the  difference  in 
Potential,  equivalent  to  Ibs.  per  sq.  inch  =  unit  of  pressure 
dependent  upon  difference  in  level. 

The  amount  of  water  or  liquid  passing  a  given  point 
during  a  certain  time  is  known  as  the  rate  of  flow  in 
gallons  per  minute,  etc.  So  a  current  of  electricity  has 
a  similar  rate  of  flow,  which  is  measured  by  a  unit  known 
as  an  Ampere,  which  represents  quantity  just  as  in  a 
water  pipe  the  quantity  is  reckoned  in  gallons.  The 
quantity  of  water  is  dependent  upon  the  pressure  used 
to  force  the  water  through  the  pipe  and  upon  the  resist- 
ance or  friction  of  the  pipe.  In  the  same  way  the  num- 
ber of  amperes  in  an  electrical  current  depends  upon 
the  pressure  or  voltage  and  upon  the  resistance  to  the 
passage  of  the  current  through  the  wires,  or  other 
conductors.  Thus  we  have: 

Ampere  =  unit  of  rate  of  flow,  dependent  upon  voltage  and 
resistance;  equivalent  to  gallons  per  minute  =  unit  of  rate  of 
flow,  dependent  upon  pressure  per  sq.  inch  and  frictional 
resistance. 

The  resistance  to  the  flow  of  an  electrical  current  is 
measured  by  units  called  Ohms,  and  is  dependent  upon 
the  diameter,  material,  length,  and  temperature  of  the 
wires,  exactly  as  the  flow  of  water  is  resisted  by  friction 
dependent  upon  the  size,  shape,  and  length  of  a  pipe. 
Therefore  we  may  compare: 

Ohm  =  unit  of  resistance  dependent  upon  diameter,  material, 
and  length  of  wire;  with  coefficient  of  friction  =  unit  of  frictional 
resistance  dependent  upon  diameter,  shape,  and  length  of  pipe. 


126  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

The  two  general  sources  of  electricity  for  ignition  are 
wet  or  dry  cells  and  magnetos  or  dynamos.  A  storage 
battery  does  not  generate  electricity  but  merely  stores 
that  generated  by  a  dynamo  or  other  apparatus.  By 
passing  the  electrical  current  through  a  contrivance 
known  as  a  " spark  coil"  a  certain  change  takes  place 
in  the  electrical  current  and  the  voltage  is  increased. 
If  the  coil  consists  of  a  soft  iron  core  with  numerous  coils 
of  wire  around  it  it  is  known  as  a  Primary  Coil,  and  is 
the  kind  used  in  the  make-and-break  system  of  ignition. 
If,  however,  the  coil  is  composed  of  two  different  kinds 
of  wire  with  the  outer  coil  finer  than  the  under  and  not 
connected  with  it,  it  is  known  as  a  Secondary  Coil,  such 
as  is  used  in  the  jump -spark  system. 

Dynamos  and  magnetos  are  mechanical  devices  used 
to  produce  electricity,  and  a  simple  form  of  one  of  these 
is  represented  diagrammatically  in  Fig.  77.  The  pieces 
A  and  B  are  electro-magnets,  or,  in  other  words,  arc 
pieces  of  iron  magnetized  by  means  of  a  small  current 
known  as  a  shunt  S,  made  to  pass  around  them  as  shown. 
This  shunt  current  is  really  a  small  part  of  the  current 
produced  by  the  dynamo  itself.  The  ends  of  these  two 
pieces  of  iron  are  known  as  poles  and  between  them  is  a 
space  known  as  the  magnetic  field.  In  this  area  an  axis 
or  armature,  C,  is  rotated,  upon  which  wires  are  wound 
so  that  the  windings  are  continually  passing  through 
the  lines  of  force  between  the  poles  and  thus  currents 
of  electricity  are  generated  in  the  wires.  As  the  rotation 
of  the  armature  causes  currents  in  the  wires  which  flow 
in  opposite  directions,  these  currents  are  gathered  so 
they  will  flow  in  one  direction  through  the  outside  wires 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND    CARE 


127 


where  the  current  is  to  be  used,  and  to  accomplish  this 
purpose  small  pieces  of  carbon  or  other  substance 
known  as  brushes,  D,  are  used  which  rub  on  small 
segments  of  copper  known  as  a  commutator,  E,  at- 


Fig-  77- — Diagram  of  Dynamo 

tached  to  the  end  of  the  armature  and  to  which  are 
fastened  the  ends  of  the  wires  used  in  winding  the 
armature.  The  brushes  are  so  arranged  that  they  touch 
the  copper  pieces  connected  with  the  proper  wires  so 
that  a  direct  current  will  flow  through  the  outside 
circuit. 

In  Fig.   78  is  a  diagrammatic  section  of  a  magneto. 
Here  A  and  B  are  the  magnets,  but  in  this  case  they  are 


128 


GASOLENE    ENGINES 


permanent,  or  true,  magnets  and  no  shunt  current  is 
required;  it  is  mainly  in  this  detail  that  dynamos 
differ  from  magnetos.  An  electrical  field  exists  between 
the  poles  or  ends  of  these  permanent  magnets,  and  a 


Fig.  78. — Diagram  of  Magneto 

revolving  armature  C  with  its  windings  cuts  through 
the  lines  of  force,  producing  currents  in  the  wires  exactly 
as  in  the  dynamo.  Brushes  D  and  a  commutator  E  are 
again  used  in  this  case  to  gather  the  flow  of  current  in 
one  direction.  The  strength  of  current  generated  by  the 
above  machines  is  dependent  upon  the  size  of  wire,  the 
strength  of  the  magnetic  field,  the  number  of  turns  of 


THEIR    OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  129 

wire,  and  the  speed  at  which  the  armature  is  rotated. 
For  this  reason  the  shunt  current  of  the  dynamo  increases 
rapidly  as  the  speed  of  the  machine  increases,  thereby 
increasing  the  magnetism  of  the  electro-magnets  and 
the  field  so  that  the  strength  of  current  will  increase 
more  rapidly  in  this  type  with  the  speed  at  which  it  is 
operated  than  it  will  in  a  magneto  with  permanent 
magnets.  To  obviate  this  difficulty  with  the  dynamo 
a  governor  is  supplied  which  regulates  the  speed  of  the 
armature  regardless  of  the  speed  of  the  engine  to  which 
the  mechanism  is  attached.  This  governor  is  essential 
where  a  magneto  or  dynamo  is  to  be  used  for  ignition 
in  order  to  prevent  burning  out  the  wires  at  high  speed 
and  yet  produce  a  good  spark  at  low  engine  speed.  As 
a  source  of  current  either  a  dynamo  or  magneto  may  be 
used  exactly  as  if  it  were  a  storage  or  dry  battery,  or 
it  may  be  attached  to  a  switchboard  and  used  to  accu- 
mulate electricity  in  a  storage  cell  which  can  then  be 
utilized  for  ignition  and  lighting. 

Magnetos  are  divided  into  two  general  classes,  high- 
tension  and  low-tension.  The  low-tension  magneto 
consists  of  magnets  as  usual,  but  with  a  primary  winding 
only,  as  in  primary  coils,  and  the  current  is  broken  at 
the  instant  of  its  greatest  intensity.  Other  low-tension 
magnetos  are  fitted  with  timing  devices  by  which  the 
current  can  be  broken  and  a  spark  produced  when 
desired,  thus  allowing  the  spark  to  be  retarded  or 
advanced  and  thus  regulating  the  time  when  ignition 
of  the  charge  in  the  engine  takes  place. 

High-tension  magnetos  have  an  armature  provided 
with  two  windings  like  the  jump-spark  coils.     These 
9 


130  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

machines  are  fitted  with  a  mechanical  breaker  which 
produces  an  induced  effect  on  the  secondary  winding 
and  therefore  no  spark  coil  is  required.  The  Bosch, 
Simms,  and  various  other  magnetos  are  of  this  type. 
Another  high-tension  system  consists  in  using  a  sort  of 
low-tension  magneto  in  which  the  current  is  passed 
through  an  induction  coil  fitted  with  a  mechanical 
breaker.  The  Splitdorf,  Holley,  and  Eiseman  magnetos 
are  of  this  type,  while  the  Remy  magneto  has  a  sta- 
tionary winding  with  two  revolving  inductors,  thus 
eliminating  revolving  wires,  brushes,  and  moving  con- 
tacts. The  great  majority  of  magnetos  in  use,  however, 
are  of  the  low-tension  type,  and  these  possess  the  great 
advantage  that  their  current  can  be  passed  through  the 
regular  spark  coil  and  thus  be  switched  off  or  on  from 
the  battery  circuit  at  will.  Moreover,  these  machines 
may  be  used  with  advantage  for  lighting  purposes.  The 
Eureka  magneto  manufactured  by  the  Henricks  Novelty 
Co.  is  of  this  type,  and,  this  wonderful  little  machine 
will  ignite  the  motor  charge  and  operate  a  total  of  36 
candle-power  electric  lights  at  the  same  time.  This 
firm  also  manufactures  a  number  of  other  magnetos, 
among  them  the  "Comet,"  which  is  probably  the 
smallest  and  most  compact  magneto  made  that  is  really 
practical.  Many  magnetos  are  inaccessible  and  are  so 
complicated  in  construction  that  if  out  of  order  an 
electrical  expert  must  be  called  on  to  adjust  them.  In 
the  Comet  the  parts  are  very  few  and  any  one  can  take 
down,  adjust,  and  repair  one  of  these  machines.  The 
illustration  (Fig.  79)  shows  the  few  parts  and  simple 
construction,  while  the  brush  holders  can  be  removed 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


131 


without  wrench  or  screw-driver,  thus  permitting  exam- 
ination or  cleaning  at  any  time. 
A  unique  variety  of  magneto  which  has  recently  been 


Fig.  79. — Parts  of  "Comet"  Magneto  showing  Accessibility 

perfected  is  the  "Wico  Igniter"  made  by  the  Witherbee 
Ignition  Co.  In  this  machine  there  is  no  rotary  motion, 
the  electrical  current  being  generated  by  reciprocating, 


132 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


or  sliding,  motion  only.  This  remarkable  machine  is 
illustrated  in  Fig.  80.  The  magnets  consist  of  tungsten 
steel  permanently  magnetized  and  fastened  to  cast-iron 
pole  pieces  which  carry  the  magnetic  lines  of  force  from 
the  poles  to  the  soft  iron  cores.  The  pole  pieces  are 
fastened  to  the  base  casting  and  support  the  magnets' 


Fig.  80. — "Wico"  Igniter 

cores  and  coils.  The  cor.es  fit  into  slots  in  the  pole 
pieces  and  are  built  up  of  sheets  of  soft  iron,  and 
each  core  extends  from  just  beneath  the  upper  arma- 
ture down  through  a  pole  piece  and  coil  to  just 
above  the  bottom  armature.  The  armatures  consist 
of  sheets  of  soft  iron,  mounted  on  a  spool-shaped 
piece  which  in  turn  is  loosely  fitted  onto  the  squared 
end  of  the  armature  bar.  This  armature  bar  is 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND    CARE  133 

a  piece  of  steel,  its  central  cross-section  being  flat  while 
its  ends  carry  the  armatures  and  are  square.  This 
leaves  shoulders  which  bear  against  the  armatures 
through  the  medium  of  fibre  washers,  the  shoulders 
serving  to  carry  the  armatures  in  and  out  of  contact 
with  the  cores  when  in  operation.  The  armature  itself 
is  freely  supported  by  a  box-shaped  guide  which  is 
fastened  to  the  case.  On  the  outer  ends  of  the  armature 
bar  are  spiral  springs  held  in  place  by  cup-shaped  washers 
and  pins,  making  a  self-locking  fastening  similar  to 
valve-spring  fastenings.  These  springs  bear  against  the 
armatures  and  force  them  against  the  shoulders  of  the 
armature  bars.  The  coils  each  have  a  simple,  high- 
tension  winding  and  are  connected  by  a  metal  strip, 
thus  making  a  continuous  winding.  In  the  single- 
cylinder  machine  one  end  of  the  winding  is  grounded 
to  the  case  of  the  igniter  while  the  other  end  runs  to  the 
spark  plug  of  the  motor.  In  two-cylinder  machines 
no  ground  connection  is  used,  but  both  ends  of  the  wind- 
ings are  connected  to  the  plugs  of  the  motor.  In  the 
back  of  the  case  there  is  a  square  slot  in  which  slides 
the  square  driving  bar.  This  bar  receives  its  motion 
from  the  engine  and  at  its  upper  end  is  provided  with  a 
pivoted  latch  of  hardened  steel.  The  latch  is  held  in 
against  the  latch  block  by  a  spring  which  fits  into  a 
recess  between  the  latch  and  the  driving  bar.  Above  the 
latch  is  a  hardened  steel  timing  wedge  which  is  held 
upward  against  the  timing  quadrant  by  a  spiral  spring. 
The  timing  quadrant  is  pivoted  on  the  back  of  the  case 
and  is  moved  by  a  small  handle  projecting  above  the 
case. 


134  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

As  the  driving  bar,  connected  with  the  engine,  is 
moved  upward  carrying  the  latch  with  it,  the  shoulder 
on  the  side  of  the  latch  snaps  under  the  square  head 
of  the  latch  block.  As  the  motion  reverses,  the  latch 
carries  the  latch  block  and  armature  bar  upward.  The 
lower  armature  being  in  contact  with  the  stationary 
cores  cannot  rise  with  the  bar,  but  the  lower  spring  is 
compressed  between  the  retaining  washer  and  the 
armature  while  the  bar  rises  and  carries  with  it  the  upper 
armature  which  bears  against  the  upper  shoulders  on 
the  bar.  As  the  driving  bar  continues  its  upward  motion 
the  bevelled  upper  end  of  the  latch  meets  the  lower  end 
of  the  timing  wedge,  and  as  the  wedge  is  stationary 
a  further  movement  of  the  latch  causes  it  to  be  pushed 
aside  until  its  shoulder  clears  the  latch  block  and 
releases  it.  As  the  lower  armature  spring  is  at  this  time 
exerting  a  pressure  between  the  armature  bar  and  the 
cores  through  the  lower  armature,  the  instant  the  latch 
is  released  the  armature  bar  is  pulled  quickly  downward 
carrying  the  upper  armature  with  it.  Just  before  the 
motion  of  the  upper  armature  is  stopped  by  hitting  the 
cores,  the  lower  shoulders  on  the  armature  bar  come  in 
contact  with  the  lower  armature  and  its  momentum 
carries  the  lower  armature  away  from  the  cores  against 
-the  pressure  of  the  upper  spring  which  acts  as  a  buffer. 

The  electrical  action  which  ensues  by  this  operation 
is  as  follows.  With  the  parts  in  position  as  shown, 
the  magnetic  lines  of  force  starting  from  one  pole  of  the 
magnets  flow  through  the  adjacent  pole  piece  to  the 
core,  downward  through  the  portion  of  the  core  covered 
by  the  coil  to  the  lower  armature,  across  to  the  other 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  135 

core,  and  up  to  the  other  pole  piece  and  other  pole  of 
the  magnets,  thus  completing  the  magnetic  circuit. 
The  magnetic  lines  cannot  travel  upward  and  through 
the  upper  armature  because  it  is  separated  from  the 
cores  by  air  gaps  and  the  lower  path  offers  less  resistance. 
The  portion  of  the  cores  covered  by  the  coils  is  therefore 
magnetized,  the  same  as  in  the  core  of  a  jump-spark 
coil.  When  the  armature  bar  released  from  the  latch 
is  at  the  end  of  its  downward  stroke,  the  armatures 
occupy  the  opposite  positions  with  relation  to  the  cores 
—that  is,  the  upper  one  is  in  contact  while  the  lower  one 
is  separated.  The  magnetic  circuit  through  the  lower 
part  of  the  cores  is  thus  broken  while  the  top  forms  a 
bridge  for  the  magnetic  lines  across  the  tops  of  the  cores. 
The  combined  action  of  the  two  armatures  causes  a 
very  sudden  demagnetization  of  the  cores  covered  by 
the  coils,  which  thus  induces  a  wave  of  current  in  the 
coils,  as  is  done  in  an  ordinary  induction  coil  when  its 
core  is  demagnetized  by  breaking  the  primary  circuit. 
In  this  igniter  the  permanent  magnets  replace  the  battery 
and  primary  winding,  while  the  armatures  replace  the 
vibrator  and  timer  in  interrupting  the  magnetic  flow 
through  the  cores.  The  timing  of  the  spark  is  accom- 
plished by  releasing  the  armature  bar  earlier  or  later 
in  the  stroke.  This  is  done  by  shifting  the  position  of 
the  timing  quadrant  which  in  turn  varies  the  position 
of  the  wedge  so  that  it  releases  the  latch  earlier  or  later. 
The  timing  quadrant  is  provided  with  several  notches 
into  one  of  which  the  top  of  the  wedge  fits,  thus  holding 
the  quadrant  in  the  desired  position.  At  one  end  of  the 
quadrant  there  is  a  notch  considerably  deeper  than  the 


136  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

others.  This  notch  is  so  deep  that  when  the  wedge 
rests  therein  the  latch  is  not  tripped,  and  consequently 
the  armature  bar  is  not  released  and  no  spark  is  produced. 
In  this  position  the  quadrant  acts  as  a  switch  and  by 
mechanical  means  shuts  off  the  current. 

The  advantages  of  this  new  form  of  igniter  over  rotat- 
ing magnetos  are  numerous.  It  produces  a  hot  spark  at 
very  high  voltage  for  starting  the  engine,  as  the  spark 
strength  is  entirely  independent  of  the  speed  at  which 
the  engine  is  operated,  and  also  because  the  voltage  is 
strongest  with  the  spark  in  its  retarded  or  starting  posi- 
tion. It  is  simple,  strong,  very  compact,  and  dust-, 
oil-,  and  water-proof;  moreover,  it  does  away  with  all 
outside  appliances  and  accessories  such  as  switches, 
batteries,  coils,  wires,  etc.,  the  only  wire  exposed  in 
the  whole  system  being  the  short  secondary  wire  leading 
from  the  igniter  to  the  motor  spark  plug. 

In  using  a  jump-spark  coil  some  method  must  be 
provided  for  interrupting  or  breaking  the  current  in 
order  to  produce  a  spark  in  the  induced  current  of  the 
secondary  winding.  This  is  ordinarily  accomplished 
by  the  use  of  what  is  known  as  a  Vibrator.  Fig.  81 
represents  a  diagram  of  a  jump-spark  coil,  and  in  this 
figure  A  is  the  core;  B,  the  primary  winding;  C,  the 
vibrator;  D,  the  vibrator  spring;  E,  the  contact  points; 
F,  the  adjusting  screw;  G,  the  condenser;  H,  the  timer; 
and  /,  the  secondary  winding.  As  the  core  A  is  mag- 
netized by  the  current  passing  around  it  in  the  primary 
winding  B,  the  iron  will,  of  course,  be  alternately  mag- 
netized and  demagnetized  as  this  current  is  made  or 
interrupted.  This  intermittent  magnetizing  of  the  core 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


137 


is  brought  about  by  means  of  a  timer,  a  mechanism  on 
the  engine  which  alternately  connects  and  separates  the 
points  between  which  the  primary  current  flows.  This 
alternating  magnetization  and  demagnetization  of  the 
core  is  used  to  operate  the  piece  C,  at  the  end  of  the 
spring  D,  in  such  a  way  that  when  the  spring  in  its 
normal  position  is  touching  E,  the  current  from  the 


A/I    AIA       1  A          A 


Fig.  81. — Diagram  of  Jump-spark  Coil 

magneto  or  battery  flows  through  the  wire  as  shown  by 
the  arrows,  thus  magnetizing  the  core,  but  the  instant 
the  core  becomes  a  magnet  the  piece  C  is  drawn  against 
its  end,  thus  separating  the  spring  D  from  the  point  E 
and  breaking  the  primary  circuit,  causing  the  core  to 
lose  its  magnetism  and  therefore  allowing  the  piece  C 
to  spring  back  against  E,  again  making  the  circuit, 
and  thus  operating  over  and  over  again  as  long  as  current 
is  supplied  to  the  primary  winding.  Non- vibrating  coils 


138  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

are  used  on  many  engines,  but  in  these  coils  only  a  single 
spark  is  produced  each  time  the  timer  on  the  engine 
makes  and  breaks  the  primary  circuit;  and  hence  there 
is  less  likelihood  of  getting  a  powerful,  hot  spark  than 
where  the  vibrating  coil  is  used  which  produces  a  series 
of  sparks  at  each  contact  of  the  timer  points.  The 
advantage  of  the  non-vibrating  coil  lies  in  the  fact  that 
the  vibrator,  contact  points,  and  adjustments  are  done 


Hammer  Vibrator 


Ribbon  Vibrators 
Fig.  82. — Types  of  Vibrators 

away  with,  but  as  this  type  of  coil  does  not  "buzz" 
it  is  far  more  difficult  to  locate  the  trouble  than  with  a 
vibrating  coil  in  case  of  failure  to  "spark"  properly. 

An  important  part  of  the  coil  to  consider  is  the  vibrator 
itself,  and  upon  the  proper  adjustment  and  construction 
of  this  depends  in  great  measure  the  efficiency  of  the 
spark.  Vibrators  are  made  in  various  styles  known  as 
Hammer  vibrators,  Ribbon  vibrators,  Feather  vibrators, 
etc.  (Fig.  82),  and  the  particular  kind  and  make  best 
suited  to  a  particular  motor  can  only  be  determined  by 
experiment.  As  a  rule  slow-speed  engines  do  best  with 
a  hammer  vibrator,  medium-speed  motors  with  a  ribbon 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  139 

vibrator,  and  high-speed  motors  with  feather  vibrators. 
A  good  coil,  when  properly  adjusted,  should  consume 
about  Y$  to  X  ampere  for  each  cylinder.  By  adjusting 
the  points  nearer  together  or  farther  apart  by  means  of 
the  adjusting  screw  F  (Fig.  81),  the  amount  of  current 
consumed  may  be  increased  or  decreased  and  the  spark 
made  weaker  or  stronger.  If  the  points  are  too  close 
the  current  consumed  will  be  greatly  increased  without 
increasing  the  operation  of  the  engine  and  with  injury 
to  the  coil.  The  aim  should  be  to  use  just  as  little 
current  as  possible  and  obtain  a  good  spark  and  proper 
ignition.  The  best  way  to  accomplish  this  is  to  test 
the  flow  of  current  with  an  ammeter  placed  between  the 
battery  connection  and  the  coil,  and  then  adjust  the 
coil  until  it  consumes  the  minimum  current  without 
missing  explosions  of  the  motor.  If  this  method  is  not 
available  it  is  a  good  plan  to  gradually  loosen  the  adjust- 
ing screw  with  motor  running  until  the  engine  commences 
to  miss  explosions.  As  soon  as  this  occurs  turn  the  screw 
down  very  slowly  until  the  engine  runs  regularly,  and 
leave  it  in  this  position.  When  the  coil  is  once  properly 
adjusted  it  should  never  be  changed  unless  the  motor 
misses  explosions  or  loses  power  and  the  trouble  is 
located  in  the  adjustment  of  the  coil. 

The  sparking  points  on  a  coil  will  frequently  burn 
or  wear  down  until  they  are  pitted,  are  uneven;  or  stick 
together  and  fail  to  vibrate.  This  may  be  remedied 
by  carefully  smoothing  them  off  with  a  fine  flat  file, 
but  a  better  plan  is  to  occasionally  change  the  wires 
from  the  batteries  so  that  the  current  flows  in  the  opposite 
direction  and  thus  depolarizes  the  contact  points.  If 


140  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

your  wires  have  been  connected  so  that  the  carbon  of  the 
battery  led  to  the  coil  and  the  zinc  to  the  ground,  shift 
them  so  that  the  zinc  leads  to  the  coil  and  carbon  to  the 
ground.  An  important  part  of  all  vibrator  coils  is  the 
condenser  (Fig.  81,  G).  This  consists  of  layers  of  tin-foil 
separated  by  mica  or  paraffined  paper.  The  sheets  of 
foil  are  connected  together  alternately  and  these  con- 
nections are  then  brought  across  the  vibrator  of  the  coil 
through  proper  wires.  The  condenser  is  usually  placed 
in  the  bottom  of  the  coil  box,  out  of  sight;  and  as  the 
wires  and  connections  are  all  inside  there  is  no  external 
evidence  of  the  condenser  and  many  users  of  coils  are 
entirely  ignorant  of  its  existence.  The  function  of  the 
condenser  is  to  reduce  the  spark  at  the  primary  break 
(at  the  vibrator  points)  which  without  it  would  be  larger 
than  that  produced  at  the  secondary  terminals  of  the 
spark  plug.  This  result  is  accomplished  by  the  capacity 
of  the  condenser  being  just  great  enough  to  neutralize 
the  self-inductance  of  the  primary  current  by  temporarily 
absorbing  the  impulse  in  the  primary  current  at  the 
moment  it  is  broken  by  the  vibrator.  Almost  instantly, 
however,  there  is  a  reverse  action  and  the  stored  energy 
in  the  condenser  flows  back  with  extreme  rapidity  and 
adds  its  quota  to  produce  a  larger  secondary  spark.  In 
the  Orswell  and  Perfex  systems  of  ignition  the  coil  is 
located  in  a  casing  attached  to  the  spark  plug,  while  the 
vibrator  and  condenser  are  in  a  separate  case  or  box 
near  the  batteries.  This  obviates  long  secondary  wires 
where  short-circuiting  is  most  likely  to  occur,  and 
produces  a  hotter  and  larger  spark,  owing  to  lack  of 
resistance  that  will  occur  where  long  secondary  wires 


THEIR  OPERATION,  USE,  AND  CARE       141 

are  used.  Similar  results  are  obtained  by  the  use  of 
cylindrical  water-proof  coils  with  vibrator  attached  to 
the  cylinder  of  engine  near  the  plug,  as  used  on  the  Gray 
motors,  or  by  a  form  of  coil  attached  to  the  plug  itself, 
as  used  in  the  Solocoil  and  Caille  Perfection  systems. 
In  either  of  these  latter  systems  the  coil  does  not  differ 
materially  from  an  ordinary  vibrator  coil,  but  the  length 
of  secondary  wire  is  reduced  to  a  minimum  and  as  the 


Fig.  83. — "Connecticut"  Plug  Coil 

switch  is  placed  on  the  coil  itself  only  two  wires  lead 
from  the  battery  to  the  engine. 

Another  form  of  coil,  manufactured  by  the  Con- 
necticut Telephone  &  Electric  Co.,  which  has  recently 
been  placed  on  the  market,  is  designed  to  overcome  all 
the  usual  troubles  of  the  jump-spark  system  for  marine 
work.  This  coil  consists  of  a  water-,  heat-,  and  oil- 
proof  casing  attached  directly  to  and  covering  the 
spark  plug,  thus  entirely  eliminating  all  secondary  wiring 


142  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

and  at  the  same  time  acting  as  a  plug  protector.  Only 
two  wires  lead  from  the  battery  or  magneto  to  the 
engine  when  this  coil  is  used  (Fig.  135)  and  no  shock 
can  be  received  when  adjusting  coil  or  plug.  The  case 
is  covered  with  a  tightly  fitting  metal  cap  that  locks 
in  place  by  bayonet  locks,  and  the  severest  tests  of  this 
coil  for  injury  by  heat  or  water  have  failed  to  prevent 
its  satisfactory  action.  The  plug  coil  is  illustrated  in 
Fig.  83,  and  as  will  be  seen  the  porcelains  are  readily 
removable  and  cost  less  than  a  common  plug,  while  the 
position  of  the  coil  on  the  top  of  cylinder  renders  it 
very  convenient  for  adjustment  or  examination.  In  fact 
this  new  coil  has  all  the  advantages  and  none  of  the  dis- 
advantages of  the  Perfex  or  Orswell  systems.  It  is  as 
secure  from  short-circuiting  as  these  devices,  and  in 
addition  does  away  with  the  separate  vibrators  and  con- 
densers with  their  attendant  wiring.  Several  other 
manufacturers  have  recently  placed  similar  coils  on  the 
market,  but  all  operate  on  the  same  principle. 

In  the  earlier  forms  of  jump-spark  ignition  much 
trouble  was  encountered  through  short-circuiting,  espe- 
cially in  the  secondary  current  or  spark  plugs,  and  the 
use  of  the  jump  spark  was  largely  confined  to  cabin  boats 
and  to  stationary  and  vehicle  use.  With  improved 
coils  and  magnetos,  thoroughly  insulated  wire  and  timers, 
and  highly  developed  spark  plugs  much  of  this  difficulty 
has  been  overcome  and  little  trouble  is  now  encountered 
with  short-circuiting,  even  in  open  boats.  Usually,  the 
greatest  trouble  is  in  the  spark  plugs,  and  these  simple 
and  cheap  accessories  are  often  given  far  less  attention 
than  they  deserve,  There  are  a  large  number  of  makes 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,    AND   CARE 


143 


of  plugs  on  the  market — some  good,  others  better,  and 
some  very  poor — and  it  will  always  pay  to  have  the 
best  and  to  keep  several  on  hand  for  emergencies.  The 
ordinary  types  of  plugs  are  shown  in  Fig.  84,  which 
illustrates  the  forms  known  as  the  "Petticoat"  and 
" Conical"  types,  as  well  as  the  porcelains  removed 
to  show  internal  construction.  These  answer  very  well 


Fig.  84. — Types  of  Standard  Plugs  and  Porcelains 

for  stationary  or  vehicle  use,  but  where  used  in  an  open 
boat  or  under  severe  conditions  of  any  sort  a  specially 
constructed  plug  should  be  used  that  will  resist  short- 
circuiting  to  the  highest  degree.  Probably  the  nearest 
to  a  trouble-proof  plug  yet  produced  is  the  Reliance. 
This  plug  in  its  various  forms  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  85. 
The  porcelains  are  also  shown  removed,  and  the  sectional 
view  shows  the  internal  construction.  These  plugs  are 
provided  with  a  very  small  platinum  point  embedded 


144 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


in  the  porcelain  and  ground  flush  with  it.  Above  this 
and  connecting  it  with  the  terminal  at  the  top  of  plug 
is  a  copper  quill  and  spring  which  compensates  for  any 
difference  in  expansion  and  contraction  between  the 
porcelain  and  metal  and  also  prevents  breakage  of  the 
porcelain  by  tightening  too  much  on  the  packing  nut. 
The  fine  platinum  point  concentrates  and  intensifies 


Fig.  85. — "Reliance"  Plugs  and  Porcelain 

the  spark  to  such  an  extent  that  the  heat  and  scouring 
action  instantly  destroys  any  short-circuiting  material 
around  it  on  the  surface  of  the  porcelain.  So  efficient 
is  this  action  that  a  Reliance  plug  will  actually  spark 
when  immersed  in  a  glass  of  water. 

Notwithstanding  this  high  efficiency  they  will  at  times 
short-circuit  when  hot  and  suddenly  drenched  with 
spray  or  when  thoroughly  saturated  with  moisture  after 
being  exposed  to  rain  or  fog.  By  merely  wiping  off  the 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


145 


outside  of  the  porcelain  and  rubbing  with  oil  or  grease 
the  trouble  is  readily  overcome,  however,  and  the  spark 
plug  will  continue  to  operate  as  before.  Probably  no 
plug  ran  be  made  that  will  not  occasionally  short-circuit 
under  evere  marine  conditions,  and  the  Reliance  is 
certainly  very  near  perfection. 
Many  other  excellent  plugs  are 
to  be  had  and  the  choice  lies 
mainly  with  the  user;  one  person 
having  far  better  results  with  one 
kind  than  another.  The  Wright, 
Spit-fire,  Never  -  miss,  Sta  -  rite, 
Sootless,  Red  -  head,  and  many 
others  are  all  good  plugs  and 
give  highly  satisfactory  results 
Several  makes  are  so  constructed 
that  they  may  be  readily  taken 
apart  for  examination  or  clean- 
ing, and  this  is  a  most  valuable 
feature  where  the  plug  is  difficult 
to  remove  from  the  cylinder  or 
is  inaccessible.  The  Breech-block 
plug  (Fig.  86)  is  constructed  with 
the  porcelain  held  in  position  by 

an  interrupted  screw  which  is  turned  by  a  lever  and 
can  be  almost  instantly  opened  and  closed  the  same 
as  the  breech  block  of  a  modern  cannon.  The  Rajah 
plugs  illustrated  in  Fig.  87  are  also  readily  taken  apart 
and  consist  of  but  four  pieces,  all  of  which  are  inter- 
changeable and  easily  removed  or  replaced.  When  using 
a  high-tension  magneto  for  ignition  separate  plugs  must 
10 


Fig.  86.— Breech-block 
Plug 


146 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


O 


be  used  for  the  battery  and  magneto,  and  this  requires 
two  plugs  in  the  cylinder.  Magneto  plugs  are  especially 
constructed  to  withstand  the  high,  hot  current  of  the 
machine  and  are  manufactured  by  almost  all  spark-plug 

makers.  To  obviate  the  use 
of  two  separate  plugs  com- 
bination plugs  with  two 
terminals — one  for  magneto 
and  one  for  the  battery — are 
furnished.  These  are  known 
as  the  Edison  type,  and  one 
of  this  kind  as  well  as  a 
standard  magneto  plug  are 
shown  in  Fig.  89. 

A  distinct  advance  in  plug 
construction  is  found  in  the 
"E-Z"  plugs  illustrated  in 
Fig.  88.  These  plugs  can 
be  instantly  removed  to 
clean  the  points  or  to  replace 

porcelains  without  the  use  of  any  tools  whatever.  The 
lower  portion  of  the  plug  screws  into  the  cylinder  as  usual, 
while  the  upper  portion,  consisting  of  the  electrodes  and 
porcelain,  slips  into  the  lower  shell  and  is  fastened 
securely  by  a  bayonet  lock.  Where  plugs  are  frequently 
removed,  or  are  difficult  to  get  at  with  a  wrench,  this 
is  a  most  excellent  feature  and  cannot  be  too  highly 
praised.  The  plug  can  also  be  used  as  a  priming  cap 
or  relief  cock,  for  the  quarter  turn  required  to  open  it 
is  as  easily  made  as  turning  on  an  ordinary  cock.  The 
joints  are  held  by  asbestos  and  are  guaranteed  against 


Fig.  87.— Rajah  Plugs 


JSE,   AND   CARE  147 

leakage;  and  a  test  by  the  writer  failed  to  develop  any 
leak  under  350  Ibs.  air  pressure. 

Timers  are  of  many  kinds  and  vary  from  very  simple 
affairs  to  highly  finished  and  complicated  devices,  but 


Fig.  88.— "E-Z"  Plugs 

the  function  of  all  is  merely  to  interrupt  and  complete 
the  current  of  the  primary  circuit  in  unison  with  the 
compression  stroke  of  the  motor,  so  that  the  explosion 
will  take  place  at  the  proper  instant. 

The  simplest  form  of  timer  consists  of  a  spring  and  cam 
(Fig.  90).  In  this  form  of  tinier  the  ground  wire  is 
attached  to  the  engine  frame  (F)  and  the  other  wire  to 
the  terminal  A,  on  the  spring  B,  which  is  insulated  from 


148  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

the  engine  by  the  fibre  block  C.  The  cam  D  is  fastened 
to  the  valve-gear  shaft  or  to  a  special  shaft  operated 
by  the  motor  and  so  placed  that  it  will  bear  against  the 
spring  B  at  the  instant  when  the  explosion  should  take 
place.  The  cam,  touching  the  spring,  forms  a  connection 
for  the  electrical  current  and  hence  a  spark  is  produced 
at  the  plug  within  the  cylinder.  As  in  order  to  secure  the 


Fig.  89. — Magneto  and  Edison  Plugs 

greatest  efficiency  from  a  gasolene  motor  it  is  necessary 
to  explode  the  gas  just  before  the  piston  reaches  the 
uppermost  limit  of  its  stroke,  some  device  must  be 
provided  to  time  the  spark  to  take  place  at  different 
points  in  the  engine's  revolutions.  If  the  spark  was 
advanced  enough  to  give  the  best  results  when  operating 
at  high  speed,  it  would  ignite  the  charge  too  soon  at 
low  speed  and  when  starting,  thus  causing  pounding, 
or  backfiring,  with  disastrous  results  to  motor  and  oper- 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


149 


ator.  To  accomplish  this  variation,  a  shifting  device 
known  as  a  spark  advance  is  used.  This  consists  in 
having  the  spring,  or  other  arrangement,  to  which  the 
insulated  terminal  is ,  attached,  mounted  on  a  pivot 

A- 


Fig.  90. — Cam  and  Spring  Timer 

which  allows  the  timer  to  swing  in  a  segment  of  a  circle 
around  the  cam.  By  moving  the  timer  backward  or 
forward  the  spark  is  produced  either  before  or  after  the 
upward  limit  of  the  piston  on  the  compression  stroke. 


Fig.  91. — Simple  Timers 

The  advance  may  be  operated  by  a  short  handle  or  lever 
attached  directly  to  it  or  may  be  operated  from  a  dis- 
tance through  the  medium  of  rods  and  levers  as  in  the 
case  of  automobiles  and  other  vehicles. 


150  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Other  forms  of  simple  timers  are  illustrated  in  Fig.  91, 
but  in  all  of  these  the  operation  is  so  similar  to  the  one 
described  that  a  further  explanation  is  not  essential. 
These  simple  timers  work  very  well  for  stationary 
engines  and  many  of  them  are  in  use  on  automobiles 
and  on  marine  engines.  A  peculiar  but  very  satisfactory 
timer  for  marine  engines  is  that  used  on  the  Tuttle 


Fig,  92. — "Tuttle "  Timer  on  Motor 

motors  and  which  is  illustrated  in  Figs.  92  and  93.  In 
this  timer,  A  represents  the  eccentric  on  the  engine  shaft, 
which  also  operates  the  pump  plunger  P.  The  eccentric 
rod  B  is  pivoted  at  the  point  C  to  the  pump  plunger, 
and  the  upper  end  is  carried  out  and  terminates  in  a 
holder  D  carrying  a  small  electric  brush,  which  is 
backed  by  a  spiral  spring  shown  in  the  section  at  E,  F 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND  CARE  151 


Fig.  93. — "  Tuttle  "  Timing  Device 


152  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Near  the  top  of  the  cylinder  of  the  motor  there  is  placed 
a  circular  bronze  disk,  pivoted  to  the  cylinder  and 
provided  with  metallic  inserts  surrounded  with  insulating 
material  ground  flush  with  the  surface  G.  The  terminals 
from  the  wires  are  fastened  to  these  insulated  inserts  and 
the  ground  wire  attached  as  usual  to  the  engine  frame. 
In  operation  the  eccentric  rod.  bearing  the  brush  which 
presses  against  the  timer-disk  by  means  of  the  spring  F, 
revolves  in  a  circle  of  the  same  circumference  as  the  timer 
disk.  As  the  brush  passes  over  the  insulated  inserts 
an  electrical  connection  is  made  and  a  spark  produced, 
but  while  passing  over  the  rest  of  the  surface  no  spark 
is  produced  as  this  portion  of  the  disk  is  thoroughly 
insulated  from  the  terminals.  By  moving  the  disk 
backward  or  forward  by  the  lever  Ey  the  spark  is 
advanced  or  retarded. 

The  timers  now  generally  used  are  enclosed  in  tight 
cylindrical  cases  and  are  operated  by  a  timer  shaft 
in  the  case  of  two-cycle  motors  (see  Figs.  38  and  39,  S) 
or  are  attached  to  the  valve  cam-shaft  in  four-cycle 
motors.  They  are  of  two  general  styles — roller  contact 
and  spring  contact — and  those  two  types  are  shown  in 
Fig.  94.  Their  operation  is  so  simple  and  so  similar  to 
those  already  described  that  no  explanation  is  required, 
however. 

Many  more  complicated  forms  of  timers  are  in  use, 
such  as  Monitors,  Unisparkers,  Distributors,  etc.,  but 
these  are  generally  used  for  special  magnetos  or  dynamos 
or  with  certain  kinds  of  engines  or  very  highly  developed 
and  complicated  motors  for  vehicle  or  racing  use.  Full 
explanations  and  directions  for  their  use  and  operation 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


153 


are  always  furnished  by  the  makers,  and  the  amateur 
should  never  attempt  to  regulate  or  repair  one  of  these 
delicate  instruments.  A  very  successful  system  is 
known  as  the  Delco,  in  which  one  unit  embodies  a  timer, 
a  means  for  advancing  and  retarding  the  spark,  and  a 


Fig.  94. — Roller  and  Spring  Timers 

high-tension  distributor.  This  entire  combination  is 
known  as  the  "Distributor"  and  requires  but  one  coil 
for  any  number  of  cylinders.  The  distributor  is  rigidly 
mounted  on  the  engine  and  does  not  rotate  as  does  the 
ordinary  timer.  The  spark  control  is  effected  by  moving 
a  lever  on  the  side  of  the  case,  and  this  eliminates  all 


154 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


moving  wires  and  makes  possible  better  mechanical 

construction.    The  distributor  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  95. 

The  distributor  is  used  in  connection  with  a  coil,  a 

relay,  and  a  switch,  and  these    are  furnished  either 


'  95- — "  Delco  "  Ignition  System 


separately  or  combined  within  a  common  case  or  box. 
The  relay  is  the  apparatus  for  breaking  the  primary 
circuit  and  takes  the  place  of  vibrators  on  ordinary 
coils  as  it  acts  for  each  cylinder  in  turn  as  the  com- 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND    CARE 


155 


mutator  or  timer  makes  connection.  From  the  ordinary 
vibrator  it  differs,  inasmuch  as  it  uses  but  one  spark 
for  each  contact  instead  of  several.  This  relay  is  the 
only  moving  part  of  the  entire  system,  and  is  very  easily 
adjusted  or  regulated.  This  Delco  system  has  been 
adopted  with  great  success  by  many  motor-manufactu- 


Fig.  95- — "Delco"  Ignition  System. 

rers,  and  is  used  on  many  of  the  leading  automobiles. 
As  a  rule,  however,  the  simpler  and  more  accessible  the 
timer  and  ignition  system  the  better,  for  nine- tenths  of 
motor  troubles  are  due  to  faulty  ignition  and  the  simpler 
the  entire  electrical  system  is  made  the  more  readily  can 
the  operator  locate  his  troubles.  Small,  delicate,  or 


156  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

intricate  parts  should  be  avoided,  and  in  this  respect 
the  jump-spark  system  far  excels  the  make-and-break. 
In  the  latter  system  of  ignition  a  simple  primary  coil 
is  used  and  no  vibrator  or  timer  is  required.  This  greatly 
simplifies  the  electrical  apparatus,  but  the  number  of 
small  parts,  springs,  etc.,  used  in  the  igniter  render  it 
liable  to  many  troubles  absolutely  unknown  to  the  jump- 
spark  ignition. 

Several  forms  of  make-and-break  igniters  are  shown  in 
Figs.  40,  96,  97,  98,  and  in  each  the  operation  is  very 
similar.  Within  the  cylinder  a  stationary  electrode  A 
is  placed,  to  which  one  of  the  wires  from  the  coil  is 
fastened.  On  the  outside  of  the  cylinder  there  is  attached 
a  sliding  rod  M,  operated  by  the  eccentric  rod  C.  Above 
this  slide  rod  is  a  plunger  Ht  which  is  held  pressed 
downward  by  a  stiff  spiral  spring  /,  bearing  against  a 
thimble  /.  Within  a  recess  in  the  slide  rod  is  an  angular 
dog  Fj  held  forward  by  the  spring  L,  and  which  bears 
upon  the  lower  end  of  the  thimble  /  or  plunger  H,  thus 
lifting  it  against  the  force  of  the  spring  /  when  the 
eccentric  rod  and  slide  move  upward.  Fastened  to  the 
cylinder  is  an  adjusting  screw  G  which  bears  against 
the  dog  F,  and  trips  it  from  the  end  of  the  thimble 
/  or  plunger  H,  thus  allowing  the  latter  to  be  forcibly 
driven  downward  by  the  action  of  the  spring  /.  Between 
the  top  of  the  slide  bar  M  and  the  thimble  /  a  rocker 
arm  C  is  placed,  which  is  connected  to  a  spindle  Z>, 
bearing  on  its  inner  end  within  the  cylinder  a  movable 
electrode  B.  When  the  slide  moves  upward,  bearing 
the  dog  and  plunger  with  it,  the  rocker  arm  is  forced 
up  to  follow  the  spindle  by  the  spring  K,  thus  bringing 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,    AND   CARE 


157 


the  movable  electrode  B  into  contact  with  the  permanent 
electrode  or  spark  plug  A,  and  completing  the  electrical 
circuit.  As  the  slide  bar  reaches  its  upward  limit  the 


Fig.  96. — Make-and-break  Igniter  (Operation) 

screw  G  trips  the  dog  from  the  plunger,  and  the  latter 
on  its  downward  travel  brings  the  thimble  against  the 
rocker  arm  C  and  thus  snaps  the  movable  electrode  B 


158 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


away  from  the  spark  plug  A,  creating  a  sudden,  hot 
spark  between  the  two. 

The  igniter  may  be  timed  to  advance  or  retard  the 
spark  by  screwing  the  adjusting  screw  G  either  up  or 
down,  and  may  be  still  further  adjusted  by  screwing 
up  or  down  the  spark  plug  A,  or 
by  loosening  the  set- screw  that 
connects  the  rocker  arm  to  the 
spindle  and  allowing  it  to  set  at  a 
varying  angle  with  the  movable 
electrode.  In  the  form  of  igniter 
illustrated  the  spark  plug  is 
screwed  into  the  cylinder  head, 
and  the  rocker  spindle  is  inserted 
through  the  cylinder,  enclosed  in  a 
bushing  E.  This  form  is  in  wide 
use,  but  it  is  often  essential  to 
remove  the  rocker  electrode  for 
repairs  or  cleansing  and  to  do  this 
requires  considerable  time  and 
work.  To  overcome  this  difficulty 
several  makers  have  adopted  an 
igniter  which  is  entirely  self-con- 
tained in  one  piece,  and  which  bolts  onto  the  cylinder 
with  its  inner  portion  projecting  inside.  Such  an  igniter 
is  illustrated  in  Fig.  98,  in  which  the  lettering  is  the  same 
as  already  described  and  identical  with  that  in  Fig.  40. 
The  make-and-break  system  has  the  advantage  of  being 
practically  water-proof,  for  it  is  operated  by  a  low- 
tension  current  and  is  free  from  short-circuiting  troubles. 
For  this  reason  it  is  a  great  favorite  with  fishermen, 


0 

0 

u 


-  97- — Make-and- 
break   Igniter 


THEIR    OPERATION,   USE,    AND   CARE 


159 


lobstermen,  and  other  users  of  open  boats;  but  its  dis- 
advantages in  my  mind  more  than  offset  its  good  points. 
The  sparking  points  of  the  two  electrodes  frequently 
become  foul  with  dirt  or  soot  and  the  low-tension  spark 
is  not  sufficiently  hot  to  burn  this  off  as  in  the  jump-spark 
plug. 

The  continual  banging  or  hammering  together  of  the 
two  electrodes  soon  wears  away  the  points,  necessitating 


Fig.  98. — Self-contained  Igniter 

frequent  renewal  and  adjustment;  the  spindle  of  the 
rocker  arm  often  becomes  gummed  or  stuck  with  oil 
or  rust,  causing  missfires  or  breaking  of  the  spindle  or 
rocker;  the  set-screw  holding  the  rocker  to  the  spindle 
often  breaks  or  wears  loose,  allowing  the  rocker  to  work 


160 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


on  the  spindle  without  operating  the  interior  electrode; 
springs  lose  their  strength  or  break;  and  the  mica 
insulation  of  the  spark  plug  often  breaks,  or  becomes  so 
filled  with  oil  and  soot  that  it  fails  to  act  as  an  insula- 
tion. In  addition  to  all  these  defects  the  make-and- 
break  system  is  very  noisy  and  dirty  and  requires 
constant  care  and  attention.  Many  make-and-break 


Fig.  99. — Make-and-break  Igniter  Altered  to  Jump-spark 

motors  that  are  practically  worn  out  may  be  given  a 
new  lease  of  life  by  converting  them  into  jump-spark 
motors.  This  is  usually  very  easy  and  inexpensive. 
If  the  igniter  is  of  the  external  type  illustrated  in  Figs. 
40,  96,  and  97,  it  is  only  necessary  to  remove  the  rocker 
and  spindle  and  plug  the  hole;  remove  the  plunger, 
plunger  spring,  thimble,  and  rocker  spring.  Fasten  a 
piece  of  fibre — to  which  a  terminal  and  spring  is  attached 
— to  the  slide  guide  and  replace  the  make-and-break 


THEIR  OPERATION,    USE,   AND  CARE  161 

plug  with  a  standard  jump-spark  plug.  This  trans- 
formed igniter  is  shown  complete  in  Fig.  99.  The  dog 
on  the  slide  bar  coming  into  contact  with  the  spring  A 
makes  the  electrical  connection  and  causes  a  spark  in 
the  cylinder.  By  placing  an  adjusting  screw  through 
the  fibre  block  B,  as  shown  in  C,  the  spring  may  be 
pressed  up  or  down  at  will,  thus  retarding  or  advancing 
the  spark.  In  the  case  of  motors  having  a  rotary  pump, 
or  provided  with  a  self-contained  igniter,  it  is  often 
easier  to  attach  a  regular  timer  to  the  pump  shaft  or  to 
a  special  shaft  operated  by  gears  on  the  engine  crank 
shaft.  Of  course  in  any  case  where  the  system  is  changed 
from  the  make-and-break  to  the  jump-spark  it  is 
necessary  to  substitute  a  vibrator  coil  for  the  primary 
coil  used  in  the  old  make-and-break  arrangement. 
11 


CHAPTER  VII 

MUFFLERS  AND  EXHAUST  DEVICES— GOVERNORS — FUEL  AND  FUEL 
CONSUMPTION — OILS  AND  GREASES — INSTALLATION — PIPING 
AND  WIRING — GASKETS  AND  PACKINGS — ADJUSTMENTS— GEN- 
ERAL CARE  OF  MOTORS. 

A  VERY  important  part  of  a  gasolene  motor  is  the 
exhaust.  As  the  burnt  gases  leave  the  cylinder  at  a 
speed  of  from  6,000  to  12,000  ft.  per  minute  with  a 
pressure  of  from  25  to  35  Ibs.  per  square  inch,  it  will 
be  seen  that  it  is  of  the  utmost  importance  that  the 
exhaust  opening  is  of  ample  size  to  allow  the  gases  to 
escape  without  creating  a  back  pressure  in  the  cylinder. 
In  four-cycle  motors  the  exhaust  valve  should  also  be 
large  enough,  and  with  sufficient  lift,  to  allow  the  gases 
to  escape  quickly  and  completely  during  the  scavenging 
stroke.  If  the  exhaust  gases  were  allowed  to  escape 
freely  into  the  air  there  would  be  little  danger  of  back 
pressure  in  the  cylinder,  but  the  speed  and  pressure 
of  the  gas  would  cause  loud  explosive  noises  and  con- 
siderable flame;  to  overcome  the  disagreeable  noise 
various  devices  are  used,  known  as  "silencers"  or 
"  mufflers."  Mufflers  and  silencing  devices  are  of  a 
great  variety  of  designs  and  construction,  but  the 
object  in  all  is  to  overcome  the  noise  to  the  greatest 
possible  extent  without  creating  back  pressure.  If  the 
exhaust  can  be  quickly  cooled  after  leaving  the  cylinder, 
or  if  the  gas  can  be  allowed  to  fully  expand  before 
reaching  the  air,  very  little  noise  will  result. 

162 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  163 

Many  motors  intended  for  marine  use  have  an  auxil- 
iary exhaust  chamber  as  an  integral  portion  of  the  engine. 
In  the  Gray  motors  this  chamber  is  merely  an  enlarge- 
ment of  the  exhaust  opening,  but  being  water-cooled 
it  serves  to  allow  the  gases  to  expand  in  addition  to  cool- 
ing them,  thus  materially  reducing  their  pressure 
(Fig.  100).  In  other  engines  the  auxiliary  exhaust 
is  in  the  form  of  a  separate  chamber  or  box  attached 


Fig.  loo. — "Gray"  Auxiliary  Exhaust 

to  the  cylinder  by  bolts  and  is  either  water-jacketed 
or  arranged  with  a  valve  that  allows  a  certain  amount 
of  the  circulating  water  to  pass  directly  into  the  exhaust 
gases.  Such  an  auxiliary  exhaust  chamber  is  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  101. 

On  marine  engines,  it  is  customary  to  lead  all  or  a 
portion  of  the  circulation  water  into  the  exhaust  pipe 
or  muffler  and  thus  cool  the  gas  and  reduce  the  pressure. 
In  the  case  of  vehicle  or  stationary  engines  this  cannot 
be  done  to  advantage,  as  the  water  used  for  cooling  is 
generally  confined  to  a  definite  amount  which  passes 
through  a  radiator  or  cooling  device  and  is  used  over  and 
over  again.  In  air-cooled  motors  there  is  of  course 


164 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


no  method  of  passing  water  into  the  exhaust.  If  the 
exhaust  is  merely  led  into  a  large  cylinder  or  chamber 
before  reaching  the  air,  the  gases  will  expand  and  will 
pass  out  with  but  little  noise.  For  stationary  use  such 


Fig.  101. — Auxiliary  Exhaust 

expansion-chambers,  if  of  ample  size,  will  usually  prove 
efficient  as  a  silencing  device,  an  old  cask  or  barrel,  or 
even  an  inverted  box,  often  being  all  that  is  required 
with  small  motors.  In  the  case  of  large  motors  a  cement 
or  brick  chamber  is  often  used,  and  this  can  easily  be 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  165 

made  large  enough  to  permit  full  expansion  of  the  gases 
and  practically  eliminate  the  sound  of  the  explosions. 
In  marine  service  there  is  often  an  under-water  opening 
to  the  exhaust,  but  before  leading  the  exhaust  outboard 
an  expansion  chamber  of  ample  size  must  be  connected 
with  the  engine.  With  two-cycle  motors  there  are  many 
objections  to  the  use  of  an  under-water  exhaust.  The 
exhaust  port  being  open  during  a  considerable  portion  of 
the  operation  of  the  motor,  combined  with  the  fact  that 
the  explosive  impulse  and  the  inrushing  fresh  charge 
are  the  only  methods  of  carrying  off  the  burnt  gases, 
often  results  in  water  or  steam  working  back  into  the 
cylinder. 

In  a  four-cycle  motor  the  exhaust  valve  is  closed 
against  any  back  pressure  during  the  entire  intake 
stroke,  and  the  burnt  gases  are  forced  out  by  the  pressure 
of  the  piston  during  the  scavenging  stroke.  For  these 
reasons  there  is  little  chance  of  water  or  steam  getting 
into  the  firing  chamber.  Wherever  an  under-water 
exhaust  of  any  kind  is  used,  however,  it  should  be  pro- 
vided with  a  relief  cock  at  its  highest  point  of  piping, 
as  well  as  a  drain  cock  at  its  lowest  point;  and  it  is  also 
good  practice  to  provide  a  three-way  cock  or  valve  at 
some  point  of  the  pipe  in  order  that  the  exhaust  may 
be  turned  off  from  its  under-water  connections  and 
deflected  through  an  exhaust  pipe "  leading  to  the  air 
above  the  water  line.  The  valve  connecting  the  under- 
water exhaust  should  always  be  turned  off  when  the 
engine  is  to  be  idle  for  any  length  of  time,  for  no  matter 
how  carefully  the  exhaust  is  installed  or  how  far  above 
the  water  line  the  motor  may  be,  there  is  always  a  chance 


166 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


that  the  boat  may  fill  through  a  leak  in  the  piping  or 
that  it  may  leak  sufficiently  or  be  filled  with  rain  to 
such  an  extent  that  the  inside  connections  will  be  lower 


Fig.  102. — "Reid"  Underwater  Exhaust 

than  the  water  line,  thus  allowing  the  boat  to  fill  and 
sink.  The  relief  valve  should  always  be  opened  when 
starting  the  motor  to  avoid  the  possibility  of  steam  or 
water  working  back  into  the  cylinder,  and  this  valve 
should  always  be  kept  open  when  the  motor  is  not  in  use. 


Fig.  103. — Exhaust  on  Boat 

The  drain  cock  at  the  lowest  point  in  the  pipe  will 
serve  to  drain  off  any  water  in  the  pipe  in  cold  weather 
and  also  in  starting,  for  if  a  pocket  of  water  collects  in 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  167 

the  pipe  it  will  often  draw  back  into  the  motor  when 
first  cranking  it  to  start. 

'Until  a  motor  gets  well  under  way  it  is  often  very 
difficult  to  get  good  results  with  an  under- water  exhaust, 
and  in  such  cases  the  three-way  valve  will  prove  very 
convenient,  for  by  its  use  the  exhaust  can  be  deflected 


Fig.  104. — Underwater  Exhaust  Connections 

into  the  air  until  well  started,  when  it  can  be  turned  into 
the  under-water  connections. 

Various  methods  of  leading  the  under-water  exhaust 
out  from  the  bottom  of  the  boat  are  in  use,  but  the  best 
method  is  to  use  an  under-water  exhaust  head  of  some 
sort.  A  very  good  form  known  as  the  Reid  is  shown 
in  Fig.  102.  This  is  fastened  to  the  side  or  bottom  of  the 
boat  and  connected  with  the  exhaust  pipe  as  illustrated 
in  Fig.  103,  a  thin  piece  of  rubber  being  placed  between 
the  planking  and  the  head  to  make  a  water-tight  joint. 
The  arrangement  of  expansion  chamber,  exhaust  pipe, 
three-way,  relief,  and  drain  cocks,  and  outboard  head 
are  shown  in  Figs.  104  and  105.  In  place  of  cooling  or 


168  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

expanding  the  exhaust  gases  in  order  to  reduce  the  noise 
a  system  may  be  used  by  which  the  rapidly  moving 
volume  of  gas  is  broken  up  into  innumerable  small  jets 
before  reaching  the  air  or  by  so  retarding  a  portion  of  the 
gas  that  the  exhaust  reaches  the  air  in  a  continuous 
or  nearly  uniform  stream  or  jet.  The  fact  that  a  steady 
stream  of  exhaust  gas  makes  less  noise  and  commotion 


Fig.  105. — Underwater  Exhaust  Connections 

than  alternating  jets  renders  the  exhaust  of  a  multiple- 
cylinder  motor  far  easier  to  silence  than  that  from  a 
single-cylinder  engine.  In  order  to  break  up  the  volume 
of  exhaust  gases  various  devices  are  used.  In  the  older 
forms  of  mufflers  the  exhaust  was  led  into  a  chamber 
or  casing  filled  with  stones,  pebbles,  or  coke  (Fig.  106) 
which  served  to  break  up  the  gas  into  many  small  jets 
before  it  reached  the  air.  Another  form,  shown  in 


THEIR  OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


169 


Fig.  107,  consists  in  a  casing  and  a  perforated  pipe  leading 
from  the  exhaust  port  of  the  engine.  The  gas,  leaving 
this  pipe  through  the  numerous  small  holes,  loses  much 
of  its  pressure  and  speed  and  divides  into  many  jets. 
As  some  of  these  are  far  nearer  the  opening  to  the  air 


Fig.  1 06. — Muffler  with  Pebbles 

than  others,  the  gases  finally  leave  the  silencer  in  a 
more  or  less  continuous  stream.  If  a  second  pipe  of 
larger  diameter  is  placed  in  the  muffler,  as  illustrated 
in  Fig.  108,  still  better  results  are  obtained.  Such 
mufflers  are  used  considerably,  but  usually  are  rather 


Fig.  107. — Muffler  with  Perforated  Inlet 

inefficient  and  often  create  considerable  back  pressure. 
Other  forms  of  silencers  consist  of  hollow  chambers 
provided  with  segments  or  plates  perforated  by  small 
holes  and  set  alternately  in  the  chamber.  This  style  of 
muffler  is  shown  in  Fig.  109,  and  if  properly  designed  and 


170 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


of  ample  volume  is  quite  effectual  and  creates  little 
back  pressure. 

The  well-known  Yankee  mufflers  are  constructed  with 
a  combination  of  these  two  systems.  Sectional  views  are 
shown  in  Figs,  no  and  in.  The  gases  entering  at  A 


z 

s 



000560 

O       0     C25       O 
<3^0       0      O      0 

Oo°o5)o0 

0  &     0   0 

X           ^ 

-^ 

Fig.  1 08 .—Muffler  with  Perforated  Pipes 

partly  pass  through  the  perforations  at  B  and  are  partly 
deflected  by  the  partition  C  and  the  interior  of  the  pipeZ), 
and  then  expand  in  the  chamber  E.  From  this  chamber 
they  pass  through  the  opening  in  the  plate  at  F  and 
hence  through  perforations  in  the  outlet  pipe  at  G  and 


Fig.  109. — Baffle-plate  Muffler 

into  the  air  through  the  tail  piece  H.  In  the  Ejector 
muffler  a  very  different  system  is  used.  This  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  ii2.  It  consists  of  three  expansion  chambers, 
A,  B,  C,  which  are  separated  by  conical  plates,  D,  E,  F, 
perforated  at  top  and  bottom  and  arranged  in  two  sets. 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


171 


The  central  tube  G,  leading  through  the  muffler,  is  of 
varying  diameter  and  a  portion  of  the  gases  from  the 
exhaust  passes  directly  into  the  central  chamber  B 
and  hence  through  the  second  set  of  cones  Z>,  E,  F  (2), 
before  the  gas  which  enters  the  first  chamber  A  has 


Fig.  no. — "  Yankee"  Auto  Muffler 

passed  through  the  first  series  of  cones  D,  E,  F  (i). 
A  small  portion  of  the  gas  is  also  led  straight  through  the 
central  pipe  G  to  the  outlet  at  a  very  high  velocity. 
This  creates  a  partial  vacuum  in  the  third  chamber  C, 


Fig.  in. — "Yankee"  Marine  Muffler 

and  the  gas  moves  rapidly  from  the  second  chamber  B 
to  fill  the  partial  vacuum  in  the  chamber  C.  The  for- 
ward movement  of  the  gas  through  the  first  and  second 
chambers  A,  B,  to  the  third  C,  causes  a  sudden  expansion 
which  removes  the  heat  from  the  gases  and  reduces  the 


172 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


O 


pressure  in  the  muffler  to  below  that  of  the  atmosphere, 
thus  allowing  the  gases  to  escape  with  no  appreciable 
noise  and  no  back  pressure.  These  mufflers  work 

excellently  both  in  vehicle, 
stationary,  and  marine  use; 
and  in  the  latter  case  still 
better  results  are  obtained  by 
running  a  portion  of  the  cir- 
culation water  into  the  ex- 
haust before  it  enters  the 
muffler. 

In  ,  the  Hydrex  silencer, 
which  is  intended  for  marine 
use,  and  which  is  shown  in 
Fig.  113,  deflecting  plates 
with  small  openings,  an  ex- 
pansion chamber,and  a  water- 
cooling  system  are  combined. 
The  gases  from  the  motor 
enter  the  silencer  at  A  and 
are  deflected  upward  and 
given  a  whirling  motion  by 
the  internal  cone.  Water 
from  the  jacket  enters  at  B, 
through  an  annular  opening 
which  forms  a  circular  sheet 
of  water,  into  the  tube  or  in- 
verted cone  V.  The  gases 

Fig.  ii2.— "Ejector"  Muffler      ,    _ 

deflected  upward  by  the  out- 
side of  this  tube  pass  through  this  sheet  of  water 
and  are  again  deflected  down  through  the  inner  tube 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


173 


by  the  lips  C,  into  the  chamber  E.  The  hot  gases 
striking  the  water  instantly  lose  their  heat  and  pressure 
and  noise,  so  that  the  cooled  gases  then  issue  quietly 
from  the  chamber  by  the  outlet  G.  Any  excess  of  water 
is  provided  for  by  a  drain  cock  B  at  bottom  of  silencer, 
which  leads  directly  to  the  bot- 
tom of  the  boat.  The  Thermex 
silencer  works  in  a  similar  man- 
ner and  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  114. 
Various  other  forms  of  excel- 
lent mufflers  are  in  use,  and  new 
ones  are  constantly  being  de- 
signed and  put  on  the  market. 
Mufflers  in  which  the  gases  are 
given  a  rotary  or  whirling  motion 
are  quite  satisfactory;  and  si- 
lencers have  been  used  in  which 
the  gases  were  led  into  a  casing 
surrounding  the  fly-wheel  which, 
being  provided  with  fans  or 

blades,  acted  as  a  blower.  Whatever  style  of  muffler, 
silencer,  or  expansion  chamber  is  used,  care  should  be 
taken  to  have  the  same  of  ample  size  to  accommo- 
date the  exhaust  gases  without  back  pressure.  A  vol- 
ume of  $5/2  times  the  square  of  the  piston  diameter 
times  the  stroke  will  usually  be  large  enough,  but  even 
under  the  best  conditions  the  perforations  or  other 
openings  in  a  muffler  will  frequently  become  clogged 
with  soot  or  rust  and  the  silencing  device  and  exhaust 
pipes  should  be  frequently  examined  and  cleaned, 
especially  if  an  excess  of  oil  is  used. 


Fig.  113.— "Hydrex" 
Silencer 


174  GASOLENE    ENGINES 

Whenever  a  motor  is  used  under  conditions  of  varying 
load  or  work,  some  method  must  be  used  to  prevent 
the  engine  from  racing  or  speeding  up  when  running 
free  and  at  the  same  time  allow  it  to  operate  at  its 
maximum  speed  and  power  when  working.  Such  devices 
are  known  as  governors,  and  are  used  principally  on 


Out-let- 


Fig.  114. — "Thermex"  Silencer 

stationary  motors.  Many  large  marine  motors  as  well 
as  numerous  vehicle  motors  also  use  governors,  and  their 
use  adds  much  to  the  life  and  efficiency  of  any  motor  of 
considerable  size  and  power.  There  are  various  meth- 
ods of  governing,  the  principal  kinds  being  Hit-or-miss, 
Throttling,  and  Varying  Ignition.  In  the  hit-or-miss 
the  action  of  the  governor  is  to  shut  off  the  fuel  supply, 
open  or  close  the  exhaust  valve,  shut  off  ignition,  or  dis- 
engage the  valve  mechanism.  In  the  throttling  method 
the  fuel  supply  is  reduced  or  the  explosive  gas  throttled. 
In  the  varying-ignition  system  the  governing  is  accom- 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE 


175 


plished  by  cutting  off  the  current  from  the  sparking 
device  or  by  varying  or  timing  the  point  of  Ignition. 
In  Fig.  115  is  illustrated  a  form  of  governor  which 
operates  by  preventing  the  exhaust  valve  from  opening. 
When  the  speed  of  the  engine  exceeds  its  normal  limit, 
the  balls  A  move  outward,  causing  the  cam  B  to  be 
moved  to  the  right  by  the  action  of  the  dogs  C  on  the 


Fig.  115. — Exhaust  Valve  Governor 

governor  arms  D,  which  are  held  in  a  grooved  collar  E 
on  the  sleeve  F.  The  end  of  the  cam  B  is  thus  prevented 
from  acting  on  the  roller  G,  until  the  motor  falls  to  its 
normal  speed,  thus  preventing  the  valve  mechanism 
from  operating  the  valve.  Ordinarily  the  cam  is  held 
in  position  by  the  springs  fastened  to  the  governor  balls, 
which  hold  the  cam  against  the  shoulder  of  the  bearing  / 
of  the  cam  shaft  /. 


176 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


Another  form  of  governor,  shown  in  Fig.  116,  may  be 
used  in  connection  with  any  of  the  governing  methods 
mentioned,  but  is  particularly  adapted  to  throttling 
methods.  The  two  balls  A,  A  are  rotated  through  any 

convenient  method  of  con- 
nection with  the  motor,  and 
in  the  illustration  are  rep- 
resented connected  by  bevel 
gears  B,  B..  As  the  speed  of 
the  motor  increases  the  balls 
swing  outward  as  indicated 
by  the  arrows,  thus  com- 
pressing the  spring  C,  and 
pushing  down  the  stem  D, 
by  means  of  the  collar  E\ 
as  the  rod  moves  down,  the 
valve  F,  at  its  lower  end, 
moves  past  the  holes  G,  H, 
which  admit  the  charge  of 
vapor,  and  thus  gradually 
throttles  the  charge  that 
passes  to  the  engine  through 
H. 

In  Fig.    117   is  shown  a 

governor  which  operates  on  the  hit-or-miss  principle. 
When  the  motor  races  or  runs  beyond  the  normal 
speed  the  action  of  the  balls  causes  the  blade  A  to 
move  away  from  the  notched  valve  lifter  B,  thus 
throwing  the  valve  out  of  action.  A  governor  of  the 
inertia  type  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  118.  In  this  form, 
if  the  engine  attempts  to  run  above  normal  speed, 


Fig.  116. — Throttling  Gov- 
ernor 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


177 


th'e  lower  end  of  the  double  lever  A  will  be  depressed  by 
the  cam  B,  and  the  valve  lift  C  will  be  thrown  out  of 
engagement  with  the  shoulder  D,  thus  preventing  any 
action  of  the  valve  until  the  motor  speed  drops  to  normal. 
Various  other  forms  of  governors  are  in  use  and  these 
may  be  attached  to  a  bracket  fastened  to  the  engine 
frame  or  may  be  bolted  to  the  fly-wheel  or  cam  shaft. 
In  the  Twentieth  Century  motors  a  centrifugal  governor 


Fig.  117. — Hit-or-miss  Governor 

is  fastened  to  the  fly-wheel  and  through  properly  ad- 
justed springs  and  rods  is  connected  with  the  carburetor 
throttle.  Governors  are  usually  properly  adjusted  to 
give  the  best  results  when  the  motors  leave  the  makers; 
and  unless  they  become  loose,  broken  or  worn,  or  very 
evidently  out  of  adjustment  they  should  not  be  meddled 
with.  As  most  governors  depend  to  a  large  extent  upon 
spring  action,  any  rust,  corrosion,  or  dirt  on  the  latter  is 
liable  to  affect  the  operation  of  the  governor,  and  care 
should  be  taken  that  they  are  kept  free  from  dirt  and 
rust.  They  should  also  be  frequently  lubricated,  but 
good  machine  oil  and  not  cylinder  oil  should  be  used 
for  this  purpose. 
12 


178  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Various  fuels  are  used  in  operating  internal-combustion 
engines  and  practically  any  grade  of  gasolene,  benzine, 
or  naphtha  may  be  used  to  operate  a  gasolene  motor 
with  slight  variations  in  carburetor  adjustments.  Poor, 
stale,  or  dirty  gasolene  will  often  give  poor  results,  and 
as  a  rule  the  lower  grades  are  not  so  economical  as  the 
better  grades.  Moreover,  poor  fuel  results  in  an  excess 

l     I 


Fig.  1 1 8. — Inertia  Governor 

of  carbon  and  soot  and  should  be  avoided  as  far  as 
possible.  Many  gasolene  motors  will  run  very  well  on 
denatured  alcohol  or  kerosene  if  first  started  with  gaso- 
lene. There  is  really  but  little  reason  for  using  these  as 
fuel,  however,  for  gasolene  gives  so  much  better  results 
and  so  much  less  soot  and  carbon  that  it  more  than 
makes  up  for  the  additional  first  cost.  Sometimes,  how- 
ever, the  operator  of  a  motor  will  find  himself  short 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  179 

of  fuel  where  no  gasolene  can  be  purchased.  At  such 
times,  if  the  motor  is  started  and  well  heated  on  gasolene, 
kerosene  or  alcohol  may  be  used.  It  is  always  a  good  plan 
to  carry  a  small  quantity  of  your  regular  gasolene  for 
use  in  an  emergency,  and  this  should  never  be  used  until 
absolutely  necessary.  The  fuel  consumption  of  a  gasolene 
motor  depends  a  great  deal  upon  the  care  with  which 
the  carburetor  is  adjusted  in  order  to  use  the  minimum 
amount  of  fuel  to  obtain  the  best  results;  the  accurate 
timing  of  valves  and  ignition,  and  the  original  design 
and  construction  of  the  motor.  A  two-cycle  motor  will 
use  more  fuel  than  a  four-cycle,  and  a  multiple-cylinder 
motor  will  use  more  than  the  same  number  of  separate 
cylinders.  Another  item  which  enters  quite  largely 
into  fuel  consumption  is  the  temperature  of  the  cylinder. 
The  best  results  are  obtained  when  the  temperature  of 
the  water  in  the  jacket  is  kept  at  about  160  degrees 
Fahrenheit.  With  this  temperature,  high-grade  fuel, 
and  careful  operation  the  average  engine  will  consume 
about  i  1/5  pints  of  gasolene,  or  about  15  ft.  of  natural 
gas,  per  horse-power  per  hour  under  full  load.  Engines 
that  will  burn  gas  satisfactorily  will  usually  burn  gaso- 
lene, and  vice  versa,  but  it  is  best  to  have  the  motor 
arranged  to  consume  a  certain  kind  and  quality  of  fuel. 
Many  manufacturers  provide  devices  for  using  kerosene 
in  gasolene  motors;  and  if  kerosene  is  to  be  used  it  is 
far  better  to  use  such  a  device,  or  else  purchase  a  regular 
oil  engine,  than  to  try  to  operate  a  motor  intended  for 
gasolene  or  gas  by  crude  oil  or  kerosene. 

Many  operators  of  gasolene  engines  give  very  little 
care  to  the  oil  and  grease  used  as  lubricants.    This  is 


180  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

in  reality  a  very  important  matter  and  too  much  care 
cannot  be  used  in  selecting  the  best  oil  for  the  motor  and, 
when  once  found,  adhering  to  one  brand  and  not  con- 
tinually changing.  Some  engines  require  a  much  heavier 
oil  than  others  and  a  new  motor  will  usually  work  better 
on  a  light  oil  than  an  old  or  worn  engine.  In  hot  weather, 
also,  a  heavier  oil  can  be  used  than  in  cold  weather,  for 
even  the  best  of  gasolene-engine  cylinder  oils  will  thicken 
up  in  cold  weather.  Many  motors  in  which  the  rings 
or  cylinder  are  so  badly  worn  as  to  lose  compression 
will  operate  very  successfully  if  fed  a  heavier  grade 
of  oil,  and  in  two-cycle  motors  a  good  supply  of  heavy 
oil  or  grease  on  the  bearings  results  in  better  base  com- 
pression and  more  efficient  service.  Machine  oil  or 
steam-engine  oils  should  never  be  used  in  a  gas-engine 
cylinder.  The  terrific  heat  in  these  motors  will  ignite 
any  but  oils  made  especially  for  the  purpose,  and  poor 
or  low-grade  oils  will  form  excessive  carbon  deposits. 
Oil  is  cheaper  than  motors  and  the  very  best  on  the 
market  is  none  too  good  for  the  poorest  motor  built. 
Machine  oil  is  very  good  for  exterior  use  and  for  that 
purpose  is  superior  to  cylinder  oil,  but  even  where  so 
used  it  should  be  of  a  high  grade  that  will  not  gum  or 
stick. 

Greases  used  in  grease  cups  and  transmissions  should 
be  selected  with  as  much  care  as  the  oil,  for  a  poor 
grease  will  gum  and  stick,  while  a  grease  containing 
any  grit,  dirt,  or  foreign  matter  will  soon  cut  out  and 
ruin  bearings.  Some  greases  on  the  market  are  more 
like  soft  soap  than  grease;  they  are  stringy,  sticky, 
elastic  compounds  and  are  unfit  for  any  use.  A  good 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  181 

grease  should  be  smooth,  clear-colored,  clean  and  soft 
in  any  weather.  The  hardness  or  softness  of  a  grease 
used  should  be  determined  by  trial,  and  any  reputable 
manufacturer  of  oils  and  greases  will  gladly  furnish 
samples  of  the  various  grades.  The  grease  used  should 
be  heavy  enough  so  that  it  will  not  run  and  spread,  and 
should  be  soft  enough  to  feed  easily  and  regularly  through 
the  grease  cups.  The  oil  used  should  always  be  strained 
before  being  placed  in  the  lubricators,  and  if  at  any 
time  the  oil  is  found  to  contain  any  trace  of  grit  or  dirt 
it  should  be  at  once  discarded  and  all  oilers,  oil-pipes, 
and  bearings  thoroughly  cleaned  with  kerosene  and 
gasolene  before  using  new  oil.  The  amount  of  oil  to  be 
fed  to  any  motor,  or  to  any  part  of  a  motor,  depends 
largely  upon  the  make,  the  age,  the  care,  and  the  work 
of  the  engine  as  well  as  upon  the  grade  of  the  oil.  A  new 
engine  should  be  given  a  liberal  supply  of  oil  until  well 
broken  in,  when  the  supply  can  be  cut  down  somewhat. 
Too  much  oil  will  cause  soot  and  carbon,  but  too  little 
will  result  in  wear  and  cutting,  and  of  the  two  evils 
it  is  far  better  to  use  too  much  than  too  little. 

When  stopping  the  motor  the  oil  should  always  be 
turned  off,  as  otherwise  an  excess  may  get  into  the 
cylinder.  If  a  mechanical  force-feed  oiler  is  used  it 
will  take  care  of  itself  in  this  matter.  An  excess  of  oil 
is  readily  determined  by  smoke  from  the  exhaust,  and 
a  smell  of  burning  or  hot  oil.  If  the  proper  amount  of 
oil  and  a  correct  mixture  of  fuel  are  being  used,  the 
exhaust  will  be  almost  colorless  or  of  a  faint  bluish  tint. 
If  too  much  oil  is  used  the  blue  will  increase  until  a  dense 
bluish  or  yellowish  smoke  issues  from  the  exhaust.  If 


182  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

the  mixture  of  air  and  fuel  is  too  rich — that  is,  contains 
too  much  gasolene — the  exhaust  smoke  will  be  either 
black  or  dense  and  white  with  a  sharp,  choking,  pungent 
odor. 

Most  engine-makers  furnish  directions  as  to  the 
proper  amount  of  oil  to  be  fed  the  various  parts,  and 
these  should  always  be  observed.  Few  moving  parts 
of  a  motor  require  less  than  six  drops  per  minute  and 
few  need  more  than  fifteen  or  twenty,  but  in  winter 
the  adjustment  of  the  lubricators  must  be  altered  to 
suit  weather  conditions  in  order  to  supply  the  proper 
amount  of  oil. 

The  installation  of  a  gasolene  motor  seems  a  very 
easy  matter,  but  really  many  excellent  engines  fail  to 
give  proper  service  or  satisfaction  owing  to  careless  or 
improper  installation.  In  vehicle  motors  this  fault  is 
not  common,  as  the  makers  of  motor-propelled  vehicles 
install  the  motors  themselves  and  usually  see  that  it  is 
properly  done.  Stationary  motors  that  are  manu- 
factured mounted  on  trucks,  frames,  or  skids  are  also 
usually  free  from  faulty  installation,  but  stationary 
motors  set  up  by  the  purchaser  and  especially  marine 
motors,  are  often  so  badly  installed  that  it  is  surprising 
that  they  work  at  all. 

The  first  consideration  in  installing  a  motor  is  the  bed. 
For  stationary  engines  the  character  and  material  of  the 
beds  depend  largely  upon  the  space  available,  the 
material  at  hand,  and.  the  location.  Brick,  stone, 
cement,  and  timbers  all  make  good  beds,  but  perhaps 
the  most  satisfactory  method  is  to  make  a  good  solid 
bed  of  concrete  in  which  timbers  should  be  embedded 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE  183 

just  far  enough  apart  so  that  the  bed-plate  of  the  motor 
may  be  bolted  to  them.  The  timbers  should  be  of 
ample  size,  and,  to  hold  them  firmly  in  the  cement  or 
concrete,  spikes  or  bolts  should  be  driven  into  them  at 
intervals  before  burying  in  the  cement.  The  cement 
bed,  as  well  as  timbers,  should  be  smooth  and  level, 
but  a  space  under  and  around  the  motor  may  be  made 
depressed  to  catch  any  water  or  oil,  and  drains  may 
be  led  from  this.  If  after  finishing  the  bed  the  timbers 
are  found  out  of  level,  they  may  be  easily  levelled  up 
by  thin  shims,  or  bits  of  wood  or  metal,  placed  between- 
them  and  the  engine  bed-plate.  In  placing  the  motor 
care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  it  is  so  placed  as  to  afford 
the  greatest  facility  in  reaching  any  and  all  parts  of  it 
and  at  the  same  time  it  should  occupy  as  little  space  as 
possible.  The  engine  may  be  bolted  to  the  bed  either 
by  lag-screws  through  the  holes  in  the  bed-plate  and  well 
set  into  the  timber,  or  by  bolts  put  through  the  timbers 
before  embedding.  The  bed-plate  may  then  be  set  over 
these  bolts  and  held  in  place  by  nuts.  In  either  case 
washers  should  be  placed  between  the  head  of  lag-screw 
and  engine  bed-plate  or  underneath  the  nuts.  The 
screws  or  nuts  should  be  screwed  in  gradually,  first  at 
one  corner,  then  at  another;  and  one  bolt  or  screw 
should  never  be  fully  tightened  up  before  setting  up 
another,  as  this  will  often  bring  an  unequal  strain  and 
cause  a  crack  or  break  in  the  engine  bed-plate. 

For  large  stationary  motors  the  beds  should  be  made 
of  solid  concrete  or  bricks  set  in  concrete,  and  on  top 
of  this  a  flat  heavy  slab  of  flagstone  or  granite  should 
be  placed.  The  bed  should  be  carried  down  to  hard  pan 


184 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


or  at  least  below  the  frost  line,  and  if  the  motor  is  to 
be  placed  above  the  ground  floor  of  a  building  the  bed 
should  have  solid  iron  columns  running  down  to  the 
ground.  If  this  is  not  possible  it  should  be  placed  as  near 
the  side  or  corner  of  the  building  as  possible,  and  the 
portion  of  the  floor  supporting  the  bed  should  be  firmly 


Fig.  119. — Concrete  Beds 

and  rigidly  braced.  Never  bolt  an  engine  directly  to 
floor  timbers  or  planks.  In  making  a  heavy  concrete 
bed  the  sides  should  slope  slightly  and  the  bolts  for 
holding  down  the  engine  should  be  well  set  in  the 
concrete.  A  good  method  is  to  insert  the  bolts  through 
iron  pipe  with  a  nut  at  the  lower  end,  and  the  whole 


THEIR    OPERATION,    USE,    AND    CARE  185 

should  then  be  embedded  in  the  cement.  Such  a  method 
is  shown  in  section  in  Fig.  119. 

Mufflers  and  exhausts  on  stationary  engines  should  be 
well  covered  or  protected  with  asbestos,  for  they  become 
very  hot  and  are  liable  to  cause  bad  burns  or  even 
set  fire  to  some  object  that  happens  to  come  in  contact 
with  them.  Exhaust  pipes,  where  led  through  a  wooden 
wall  or  partition,  should  be  protected,  and  a  metal  collar 
should  be  used  over  the  hole  with  a  space  of  at  least 
one  inch  between  the  pipe  and  the  nearest  wood.  The 
outer  end  of  the  exhaust  should  be  led  away  from  all 
surrounding  objects  or  walls  and  should  never  lead 
into  a  chimney,  water  or  steam  pipe,  smokestack,  or 
other  confined  space.  If  this  is  done  unburnt  charges  of 
gas  may  enter  and  later  explode  by  flame  or  heat  with 
serious  results.  If  a  wooden  bed  is  used  it  should  be 
firmly  mortised  or  bolted  together  and  should  be  securely 
fastened  to  the  flooring  or  ground.  Many  engines  are 
given  far  too  light  a  bed,  and  when  under  full  power 
will  jump  and  vibrate  tremendously.  A  good  bed 
should  be  strong  and  steady  enough  to  hold  the  motor 
down  immovably  under  its  highest  speed  and  greatest 
load. 

When  installing  a  marine  engine  the  method  is  gov- 
erned to  a  great  extent  by  the  boat,  the  timbers,  and  the 
accessibility  of  the  location.  Timbers  for  a  boat  engine's 
bed  should  be  of  well-seasoned  hardwood  of  ample  size 
and  strength,  and  should  be  securely  bolted  to  ribs 
and  keel,  but  not  to  the  planking.  A  very  good  plan  is  to 
use  two  long  timbers  running  lengthwise,  or  fore  and  aft, 
of  the  boat  and  fastened  to  the  ribs.  Across  these  the 


186 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


bed  timbers  should  be  bolted  and  these  should  also  be 
securely  fastened  to  the  keel.  In  a  flat-bottomed  boat 
timbers  may  be  set  across  the  boat,  bolted  to  keel  and 
sides,  and  the  engine-bed  bolted  lengthwise  of  these 
(Fig.  120).  This  method  takes  the  jar  and  vibration 
from  the  floor  boards  and  planks.  Great  care  should 


Fig.  120. — Engine  Beds  in  Boats 

be  taken  in  getting  a  marine  engine  level  and  in  absolute 
line  with  the  shaft;  a  very  slight  deviation  will  cause 
enough  friction  on  the  shaft  to  stop  the  engine  or  hold 
it  down  to  only  a  fraction  of  its  speed  and  power.  I 
have  seen  a  ten-horse-power  motor  that  could  not  be 
turned  over  more  than  one  explosion  owing  to  a  bend  in 
the  shaft  so  slight  as  to  be  scarcely  perceptible  to  the  eye. 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  187 

Where  it  is  difficult  or  impossible  to  get  a  perfect 
alignment,  or  where  there  is  a  constant  vibration  or 
motion,  the  shaft  should  be  connected  through  a  uni- 
versal joint.  Flexible  unions,  elbows,  joints,  and 
stuffing  boxes  may  also  be  used  if  desired.  In  vehicle 
construction  with  a  shaft  drive  universal  joints  cannot 
well  be  avoided,  and  in  many  high-powered  and  racing 
boats  they  are  also  used  to  great  extent;  but  it  is  better 
to  avoid  flexible  connections  as  far  as  possible,  as  they 
are  expensive,  cumbersome,  and  must  be  given  con- 
siderable care  if  they  are  to  prove  efficient. 

The  exhaust  piping  in  a  boat  can  be  so  readily^cooled 
by  admitting  a  part  of  the  circulating  water  that  there 
is  no  excuse  for  its  ever  burning  or  scorching  anything, 
but  nevertheless  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have  it  well  pro- 
tected and  led  in  such  a  way  that  it  will  not  be  in  the 
way  of  people  passing  to  and  fro.  A  marine  motor, 
more  than  any  other,  should  be  handy  and  accessible 
and  ample  room  should  be  left  on  all  sides  to  allow  it 
to  be  adjusted,  taken  apart,  or  cleaned  readily,  and  the 
drain  cock  in  base  should  be  within  easy  reach.  It  is 
usually  most  convenient  to  have  the  exhaust  on  the  port 
and  the  intake  on  the  starboard  side  where  the  operator 
sits  behind  the  motor,  but  the  arrangement  of  such 
matters  must  be  guided  by  the  conditions  in  each  par- 
ticular case.  In  installing  any  engine  the  exhaust 
silencer  should  be  as  near  the  motor  as  possible,  and  the 
exhaust  pipe  should  be  as  short  and  with  as  few  bends 
and  turns  as  can  be  arranged.  Where  right  angles  must 
be  made  in  an  exhaust  pipe  two  forty-five-degree  elbows 
should  be  used  instead  of  one  common  elbow,  and  tees 


188 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


should  be  avoided  as  much  as  possible;  they  always  have 
pockets  which  are  a  nuisance.  Connections  as  far  as 
possible  should  be  made  with  flanges  or  flanged  unions, 
as  ordinary  screw  unions  and  right-and-left  couplings 
soon  become  so  foul  and  corroded  as  to  be  impossible 
to  disconnect.  The  exhaust  in  a  boat  should  always  be 
so  arranged  as  to  slant  downward  from  the  motor  to 


Fig.  121. — Marine  Exhaust  properly  Installed 

the  outlet,  for  even  if  far  above  the  water  line  a  wave 
may  now  and  then  wash  into  the  exhaust. 

If  a  long  exhaust  pipe  is  unavoidable  it  should  be 
gradually  increased  in  size,  and  it  is  a  good  practice 
to  always  use  a  larger-sized  pipe  at  every  turn  of  the 
exhaust  pipe  beyond  the  first.  For  connecting  up  an 
exhaust  pipe  lead  and  oil  should  never  be  used,  as  it 
soon  burns  out  and  either  leaves  a  leaky  joint  or  cements 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


189 


the  joints  together  into  a  solid  mass.  Cylinder  oil  and 
graphite  make  an  excellent  joint,  and  even  linseed  oil 
and  graphite  is  very  good.  Where  a  solid  and  permanent 
job  is  desired  the  joints  may  be  made  with  red  lead  and 
molasses,  or  with  litharge  and  glycerine,  or  with  a  cement 
composed  of  sulphur,  iron  filings,  and  sal-ammoniac 
mixed  into  a  thin  paste  with  water.  Well-fitting  threads 
may  also  be  well  cemented  together  by  the  use  of  sal- 
ammoniac  and  water  alone.  Where  the  boat  is  intended 


Fig.  122. — Installation  of  Exhaust  above  Water-line 

for  salt- water  use  the  exhaust  pipe  should  be  of  galvanized 
iron,  and  this  is  far  better  than  black  iron  even  where 
used  around  fresh  water  or  for  stationary  motors.  A 
sample  of  a  well-installed  marine  exhaust  is  shown 
in  Fig.  121.  This  illustrates  an  under- water  exhaust, 
while  Fig.  122  shows  methods  of  exhaust  piping  when 
above  the  water  line.  In  Fig.  123  is  shown  the  method 
of  properly  piping  a  stationary  exhaust  where  it  was 
carried  a  long  distance  and  several  turns  had  to  be  made. 
The  water-circulation  pipe  connections  should  be 
made  with  care,  for  a  small  air  leak  in  the  intake  will 
often  cause  failure  of  the  pump,  and  a  leak  in  the  outlet 


190 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


is  very  messy  and  disagreeable  in  a  boat  and  wasteful 
of  water  in  stationary  or  vehicle  use.  Brass  pipe  is 
advisable  in  marine  work,  although  for  fresh-water  use 
galvanized  pipe  answers  very  well.  Connections  on 
water  pipe  may  be  made  with  white  or  red  lead  and  oil, 
and  common  unions  may  be  used,  although  for  many 
reasons  flange  unions  are  better.  Turns  in  water  pipe 
are  not  as  objectionable  as  in  the  exhaust,  but  are  to  be 
avoided  as  far  as  possible,  and  the  piping  should  always 


Fig.  123. — Installation  of  Stationary  Engine  Exhaust 

be  provided  with  drain  cocks  at  the  lowest  points  in  order 
to  draw  off  the  water  in  cold  weather.  Hose  connec- 
tions are  bad  and  should  never  be  used  where  they  can 
be  avoided.  They  are  uncertain  at  the  best  and  soon  rot. 
Moreover,  they  become  soft  and  are  liable  to  collapse 
with  suction  and  shut  off  the  water  supply,  while  pieces 
of  the  fabric  or  rubber  are  always  likely  to  work  loose 
and  get  into  the  pipe,  valves,  or  pump  and  cause  trouble. 
At  the  intake  of  a  boat's  water  system  there  should  be  a 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  191 

strainer,  and  a  cock  should  also  be  provided  for  shutting 
off  the  intake  when  not  using  the  boat.  Many  a  boat 
has  filled  and  sunk  through  a  loose  or  broken  connection 
and  lack  of  a  valve  to  shut  off  the  water.  In  connec- 
tion with  the  water  system,  where  a  small  part  of  the 
water  is  turned  into  the  exhaust,  a  three-way  valve  will 
be  found  most  useful.  A  valve  of  this  sort,  made  by 


Fig.  124. — "  Detroit"  Three-way  Valve 

the  Detroit  Lubricator  Co.,  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  124. 
By  the  use  of  such  a  valve  any  amount  of  water  desired 
may  be  admitted  to  the  exhaust  or  it  may  be  turned  off 
completely  and  all  the  water  led  overboard  direct. 

In  making  up  the  gasolene  pipe  more  care  should  be 
used  than  in  any  other  part  of  the  various  pipes  and 


192  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

connections.  A  small  leak  in  this  pipe  may  result  in 
fire  and  destruction  or  even  in  loss  of  life,  for  even  a 
drop  or  two  of  gasolene  now  and  then  will  produce 
enough  gas  in  a  boat  or  small  building  to  blow  it  to  atoms. 
In  open  boats  the  greatest  danger  lurks  in  the  bilge  or 
around  the  tank,  but  in  cabin  boats,  or  in  cellars  or 
buildings,  the  entire  place  may  be  filled  with  gas  that 
will  explode  the  moment  a  flame  is  brought  into  contact 
with  it.  Even  in  motor  vehicles  a  leak  in  a  pipe  or  tank 
may  allow  gas  to  form  which  will  ignite  by  a  short-cir- 
cuited wire  or  a  carelessly  dropped  cigar  or  cigarette,  and 
nearly  every  case  of  gasolene  fires  or  explosions  about 
motors  can  be  traced  to  a  leaky  connection  or  pipe. 

All  joints  in  the  gasolene  pipe  should  be  made  with 
shellac  or  with  common  laundry  soap,  as  any  material 
containing  oils  is  useless.  Where  brass  pipe  is  used  the 
connections  should  be  carefully  threaded  and  screwed 
up  tight.  A  good,  clean,  new  thread  will  hold  gasolene 
without  anything  else.  Where  a  flexible  tube  is  used  it 
should  be  of  soft  copper  and  all  the  unions  or  connections 
should  be  soldered  or  brazed  in  place.  Where  a  gasolene 
pipe  is  subject  to  any  vibration  or  jar  a  loop  or  turn 
should  be  provided  to  absorb  vibration  (Fig.  125,  G), 
and  the  pipe  should  frequently  be  looked  over  for  breaks 
or  cracks.  A  cock  should  always  be  placed  at  the  tank 
so  that  the  supply  may  be  readily  shut  off  (Fig.  125,  E) 
and  a  strainer  should  be  provided  to  catch  any  water  or 
dirt  in  the  gasolene  (Fig.  125,  H).  Lead  or  block-tin 
pipe  is  to  be  avoided.  It  is  easily  bent  or  crushed,  is 
apt  to  be  punctured,  it  corrodes  and  forms  scales  and 
sediment  in  the  gasolene,  and  in  case  of  fire  it  quickly 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  193 

melts,  thus  allowing  more  gasolene  to  run  out  and  feed 
the  flames. 

Careful  attention  should  also  be  given  to  the  gasolene 
tank.  It  should  be  of  copper  or  galvanized  -iron  of  ample 
capacity  and  the  feed  pipe  should  be  connected  a  short 
distance  above  the  lowest  portion.  This  will  prevent 
any  dirt  or  water  in  the  bottom  of  the  tank  from  work- 
ing into  the  feed  pipe.  At  the  lowest  point  in  the  tank 


B 


!^H 


— 0 


— a 

Fig.  125. — Gasolene-Pipe  Installation 

there  should  be  a  drain  cock  from  which  the  collection 
of  sediment  and  dirt  may  be  drawn  from  time  to  time 
(Fig.  125,  Dy.  This  drain  in  a  boat  should  lead  over- 
board and  thus  avoid  danger  of  the  gasolene  getting 
into  the  bilge-water.  A  cock  should  also  be  placed  in 
the  feed  pipe  close  to  the  tank  so  that  the  supply  may 
be  entirely  shut  off  at  any  time  (Fig.  125,  E).  The  filler 
hole  in  the  tank  should  be  covered  with  a  screw  top 
(Fig.  125,  B)  and  a  small  air  vent  made  in  the  side  of 
this  cap  (Fig.  125,  C).  This  will  allow  the  fuel  to  flow 
freely  and  also  prevent  dust  or  water  from  entering  the 
13 


194 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


tank.  The  tank  on  stationary  engines  should  have  the 
bottom  at  least  six  inches  above  the  highest  point  of 
carburetor,  and  on  marine  or  vehicle  motors  it  should 
be  high  enough  so  that  any  motion  of  the  boat  in  a 
sea-way,  or  of  the  car  when  hill-climbing,  will  not  bring 
the  carburetor  above  the  lowest  point  of  the  tank. 


Fig.  126. — Wiring  Single-cylinder  Jump-spark  with  Batteries 

Every  tank  should  also  be  provided  with  splash  plates 
inside  to  prevent  the  liquid  from  swashing  about  and 
causing  irregular  feed. 

To  many  motor-owners  and  users  the  question  of 
electrical  wiring  is  a  very  serious  matter.  In  many 
cases  one  must  be  a  good  electrician  as  well  as  mechanic 
to  wire  up  a  motor,  but  in  the  majority  of  cases  the 
wiring  is  comparatively  simple  and  easy.  A  description 
of  wiring  is  of  little  use,  for  it  is  far  easier  to  follow  a 
diagram  or  design  a  new  one  suited  to  particular  require- 
ments by  the  aid  of  others.  The  makers  of  most  motors 
furnish  full  wiring  directions  and  diagrams  with  their 
engines;  but  as  motors  frequently  require  new  wiring, 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


195 


new  systems  are  installed,  or  old  motors  without  direc- 
tions may  be  purchased,  diagrams  for  wiring  the  various 
types  of  motors,  as  well  as  several  systems  of  both 
battery  and  combined  battery  and  magneto,  are  illus- 
trated in  Figs.  126  to  136. 
In  wiring  for  a  motor,  whether  for  marine,  stationary, 


Fig.  127. — Wiring  Single-cylinder  Jump-spark  with  Batteries  and 

Magneto 


or  vehicle  use,  the  best  materials  only  should  be  used. 
About  80  per  cent  of  motor  troubles  are  due  to  ignition, 
and  a  large  proportion  of  these  are  due  to  poor  or  faulty 
wiring.  Too  much  care  cannot  be  taken  to  see  that  all 
materials  are  perfect,  all  joints  well  made,  and  that  the 
wiring  as  a  whole  is  as  well  done  and  as  free  from  the 
chance  of  injury,  breakage,  or  short-circuiting  as  pos- 
sible. For  primary  wires  in  the  jump-spark  system, 
or  for  the  wiring  on  a  make-and-break  engine,  fairly 


196 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


light  wire  may  be  used,  but  this  should  be  of  good  quality, 
well  insulated,  and  of  the  multiple-strand  kind.  Single- 
strand  wire  is  very  good,  but  in  connection  with  a  motor 
the  constant  vibration  is  liable  to  break,  or  partly  break, 
the  wire  and  as  this  is  not  visible  through  the  insulation 
the  trouble  is  often  very  difficult  to  locate,  especially 


Fig.  128. — Wiring  Two-cylinder  Jump-spark  with  Batteries  only 

as  the  two  ends  may  rub  together,  causing  intermittent 
or  weak  connections.  Where  staples  are  used  to  fasten 
wires  to  seats,  rails,  or  any  woodwork,  they  should 
be  fibre-  or  leather-covered,  or  when  these  cannot  be 
secured,  a  bit  of  rubber,  leather,  or  even  cloth  may  be 
placed  between  the  wire  and  the  staple.  Two  wires 
should  never  be  confined  under  the  same  staple,  for  if 
the  insulation  becomes  worn  or  broken,  short-circuiting 
is  almost  sure  to  result.  Have  as  few  joints  in  a  wire  as 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  197 


Fig.  129. — Wiring  Make-and-break  with  Batteries 


Fig.  130. — Wiring  Make-and-break  with  Batteries  and  Magneto 


198 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


possible,  and  when  making  a  joint  have  the  strands 
bright  and  clean  and  after  being  twisted  firmly  together 
they  should  be  soldered.  Soldering  is  not  absolutely 
necessary,  but  it  is  safer,  and  with  the  modern  soldering 
compounds,  which  can  be  used  with  a  match  or  small 
torch  or  lamp,  it  is  very  easy  to  solder  all  joints.  Whether 


Fig.  131. — Wiring  any  Number  of  Cylinders  with  Master  Vibrator 

the  joint  is  soldered  or  not,  it  should  be  well  wrapped 
with  several  layers  of  adhesive  rubber  tape. 

Secondary  wire  should  be  of  the  highest  grade  and 
where  there  is  dampness  or  grease  it  should  be  led  through 
a  metallic  or  fibre  tube  or  casing.  Grease,  water,  and 
oil  will  in  time  destroy  insulation  and  allow  short- 
circuiting,  and  therefore  all  wires  should  be  as  thoroughly 
protected  as  possible.  In  marine  work  it  is  a  good  plan 
to  run  the  secondary  wires  through  rubber  tubing  and 
in  all  cases  the  wiring  should  be  kept  as  short  as  possible. 
Avoid  confusion  of  wires  and  keep  each  group  separate 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  199 


a 


Fig.   132. — "Aplco"  System   of  Wiring  with  "Floating"  Storage 

Battery 


4-           0 

1       r- 

-Q  —  D- 

/ 

0          t 

</ 

[^~N 

\  • 

—  i  1  —  i  — 

0  » 


Fig.  133. — Wiring  "  Perfex  "  System 


200 


GASOLENE   ENGINES 


as  far  as  possible.     If  wires  are  led  under  or  through 
spaces  where  they  cannot  be  readily  seen  and  followed, 


Fig.  134. — Wiring  "Perfection"  Plug-transformer 

it  is  a  very  good  plan  to  use  various-colored  wires,  as 
in  that  way  the  wires  from  one  place  to  another  may  be 
easily  traced.  If  several  different-colored  wires  are  not 


Fig-  135. — Wiring  "  Connecticut  "  Plug  Coil 

available,  colored  strings  or  bits  of  cloth  may  be  fastened 
here  and  there  to  each  wire  and  this  will  serve  to  identify 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


201 


them.  Never  lead  a  secondary  and  a  primary  wire 
through  the  same  tube,  staple,  or  insulator,  but  keep 
them  as  far  apart  as  possible,  and  never  attach  either 
primary  or  secondary  wires  to  any  metal  except  at  the 
terminals.  If  metal  must  be  used,  be  careful  to  have  the 
wires  doubly  or  trebly  insulated  by  winding  with  tape 
where  they  touch  the  metal. 

The    terminal    connections    of    both    primary    and 


Fig.  136. — Wiring  "  Delco  "  System 

secondary  wires  where  they  connect  with  batteries, 
coil,  timer,  and  plug  are  often  sources  of  trouble  and 
should  be  carefully  made  and  frequently  examined. 
Various  styles  of  battery  connectors  and  terminals  are 
for  sale  and  most  of  these  are  excellent.  The  "Bull 
Dog"  battery  connectors,  as  well  as  the  various  spring 
clip  connectors,  work  very  well;  but  those  made  from 


202  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

a  piece  of  sheet  metal  and  soldered  to  the  wires  often 
break  partly  off  without  any  external  sign  of  the  fracture 
and  in  this  way  cause  an  interrupted  or  weak  current 
that  is  exceedingly  difficult  to  locate.  Primary  and 
secondary  terminals  for  the  main  wires  come  in  a  variety 
of  forms  and  designs.  A  common  form  is  shown  in 
Fig.  137,  which  represents  the  " Reliance"  terminal. 
These  may  be  used  by  slipping  over  the  nut  or  thumb 
screw  on  the  top  of  spark  plug  or  may  be  fastened  by 


Fig.   137. — "  Reliance  "  Terminals 

screwing  the  nut  down  over  them.  Another  splendid 
style  of  terminal  is  the  "Ball  and  Socket"  form  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  138.  These  terminals  are  designed  to  be 
fastened  to  the  wire  without  solder  or  special  appliances. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  cut  the  wire  off  square,  shove 
it  into  the  socket,  and  screw  the  wood  screw  in  tight. 
The  sides  of  the  terminal  are  made  of  spring  metal 
with  a  recess  to  fit  over  the  ball  adapter  or  hexagon 
ball  nut  furnished  as  a  part  of  the  equipment.  The  use 
of  the  ball-and-socket  joint  allows  free  play  of  the  wires 
in  any  direction  and  insures  a  perfect  connection. 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  203 

Terminals  which  will  answer  every  purpose  may  be 
readily  made  by  bending  the  end  of  the  wire  into  a  loop, 
twisting  it  together  and  soldering  it  firmly  in  place. 

In  repairing,  adjusting,  or  overhauling  motors  various 
gaskets  or  packings  will  be  encountered,  and  as  these 
are  usually  broken  or  injured  in  getting  the  joints  apart, 
it  is  essential  that  the  operator  should  know  how  to  make 
new  ones  and  be  familiar  with  the  materials  to  use. 
Gaskets  are  rings  or  sheets  of  material  cut  into  the  form 


Fig.  138. — "  Connecticut  "  Terminals 

of  the  parts  and  placed  between  two  surfaces,  such  as 
the  two  sides  of  a  cylinder  head,  between  the  two  sides 
of  a  union,  etc.  They  are  made  of  paper,  asbestos, 
fibre,  metal,  rubber,  leather,  etc.  The  best  material 
for  cylinder-head  gaskets  and  any  other  places  where 
there  is  considerable  pressure,  as  well  as  water  or  gaso- 
lene, or  both,  is  the  material  known  as  "  semi-bronze "; 


204  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

this  packing  consists  of  a  fine  sheet  of  copper- wire  gauze 
embedded  in  a  sheet  of  asbestos  and  covered  with 
graphite  or  black  lead.  In  many  places  exceedingly 
thin  gaskets  must  be  used,  and  in  such  spots  tough 
manila  paper  well  soaked  in  oil  or  grease  and  rubbed 
with  graphite  is  the  best  material.  Metal  gaskets  are 
used  between  flanges  in  flange  unions,  on  exhaust  con- 
nections, etc.,  and  usually  come  ready-made  in  various 
sizes. 

Asbestos  of  itself  is  a  very  poor  material  to  use  about 
gasolene  engines,  as  it  is  frail,  is  readily  soaked  by 
water  or  gasolene,  and  is  hard  to  cut  or  handle  without 
tearing  or  breaking.  In  making  a  gasket  the  best 
method  is  to  clean  the  part  to  be  fitted  and  then  lay  a 
sheet  of  the  paper  or  other  material  over  it.  With  a 
smooth-faced  wooden  mallet  or  piece  of  rounded  hard- 
wood, tap  all  over  the  surface  until  the  edges  of  the  joints, 
as  well  as  the  various  bolt  or  screw  holes,  are  well  im- 
printed on  the  material.  Then,  with  a  circular  punch, 
cut  the  holes  where  indicated  and  after  this  is  done 
cut  out  the  edges  of  the  joints.  A  gasket  must  never 
have  rough  edges  that  will  bind  or  catch  in  the  joints, 
and  the  holes  for  the  bolts  or  screws  must  be  smooth 
and  ample  in  size.  Rub  the  gasket  with  oil  or  oil  and 
graphite  before  placing  on  the  joint  and  then  lay  upon 
the  surface  of  the  joint  carefully.  Be  sure  there  are  no 
wrinkles,  bits  of  dirt,  or  inequalities  in  the  gasket  and 
make  sure  that  it  fits  perfectly  before  placing  the  other 
part  of  the  joint  on  it.  When  all  is  ready,  place  the  two 
pieces  together  and  screw  home  the  bolts  a  little  at  a 
time,  working  gradually,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  205 

another,  but  never  tightening  up  all  at  once  on  any 
one  bolt. 

Packings  for  pump  plungers,  revolving  shafts,  stuffing 
boxes,  etc.,  are  usually  made  of  cotton  wicking  or  hemp 
packing.  In  making  such  a  packing  be  sure  and  clean 
out  all  the  old  material,  use  packing  of  the  proper  size, 
oil  thoroughly  before  putting  in  place,  and  do  not  pack 
too  tight  until  it  has  formed  a  good  bearing  or  seat 
for  the  shaft  or  other  object.  Never  use  white  or  red 
lead  on  a  gasket  or  packing  of  a  gas  engine  unless  you 
are  looking  for  trouble.  Oil  and  graphite  is  the  best 
material,  and  unless  the  packing  or  the  ground  joints 
are  very  badly  made  or  have  been  abused,  nothing  is 
needed  in  addition. 

In  adjusting  a  new  motor,  or  one  which  has  been 
recently  overhauled,  you  should  proceed  slowly,  doing 
one  thing  at  a  time,  and  remembering  exactly  how  each 
adjustment  was  beforehand  and  exactly  how  you  have 
altered  it.  A  valve  may  be  ruined  by  turning  it  a  trifle 
too  tight,  or  a  screw  thread  stripped  or  a  bolt  head 
twisted  off  by  a  slight  pressure  beyond  the  normal. 
In  taking  down  or  overhauling  a  motor  each  part  should 
be  marked  and  a  similar  mark  placed  on  the  part  of  the 
motor  where  it  belonged.  This  may  be  done  by  light 
marks  with  a  centre  punch  or  by  scratches  on  the  paint, 
enamel,  or  metal.  In  taking  apart  a  four-cycle  motor 
this  is  most  important  in  the  case  of  the  timer  and 
valve  gears.  The  alteration  in  position  of  a  single 
tooth  on  a  gear  will  throw  the  entire  valve  out  of 
position.  In  taking  apart  such  gears  always  mark  the 
teeth,  where  they  mesh,  with  a  prick  punch  or  centre 


206  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

punch  so  there  may  be  no  difficulty  in  placing  them 
together  correctly. 

Setting  the  valves  properly  in  a  four-cycle  motor  is  an 
important  matter.  The  exhaust  valve  should  open 
at  about  five-sixths  of  the  completion  of  the  power 
stroke  and  should  close  at  the  end  of  the  idle  or  scaven- 
ging stroke.  At  the  commencement  of  the  next  outward, 
or  suction,  stroke  the  inlet  valve  should  begin  to  open, 
and  both  valves  should  be  firmly  closed  at  the  moment 
the  piston  commences  to  travel  back  on  the  compression 
stroke.  Different  motors  vary  somewhat  as  to  the  exact 
time  when  valves  open  and  close,  but  the  above  is  about 
the  average  and  the  finer  adjustments  can  be  readily 
made  by  set-screws  or  other  devices  provided  until  the 
best  results  are  obtained. 

A  gasolene  motor  should  be  cared  for  as  carefully 
as  any  other  piece  of  fine  machinery,  and  because  it  uses 
oil  and  grease  and  becomes  dirty  in  use  it  is  no  reason 
why  it  should  be  neglected  and  not  cleaned  and  groomed 
frequently.  A  rusty,  dirty,  or  neglected  engine  is  a 
disgrace  to  the  operator  and  shows  lack  of  common 
sense  or  care.  Oil  cups  and  oilers,  as  well  as  grease  cups 
should  be  kept  well  filled  and  all  excess  oil  or  grease 
carefully  wiped  off.  If  grease  and  oil  accumulates  or 
sticks  on,  it  should  be  removed  by  kerosene  and  gasolene. 
All  unpainted  parts  should  be  kept  clean  and  free  from 
rust  and  well  oiled,  and  all  nickel  or  brass  work  should 
be  kept  brightly  polished.  If  you  cannot  spare  the  time 
to  polish  and  clean  your  brass  it  is  better  to  paint  it  at 
once  and  avoid  horrid  green  verdigris.  A  vehicle  motor 
requires  as  much  care  as  any  other,  and  because  it  is 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE  207 

out  of  sight  it  is  all  too  frequently  out  of  mind  as  well. 
Many  a  splendid  motor-car,  that  is  resplendent  in 
polished  brass,  rich  upholstery,  and  shining  paint  and 
varnish,  carries  beneath  its  hood  a  motor  so  greasy,  dusty, 
dirty,  and  neglected  that  it  would  be  a  disgrace  to  the 
most  slovenly  fisherman's  dinghy. 


CHAPTER   VIII 

TOOLS;  EMERGENCY  REPAIRS  AND  MAKESHIFTS;  USEFUL  HINTS 
AND  WRINKLES;  GRINDING  VALVES  AND  GRINDING  COM- 
POUNDS; CARBON-REMOVERS  AND  CLEANSERS;  POLISHES; 
ENAMELS,  PAINTS,  ETC.;  BELTS  AND  BELT  DRESSINGS;  ANTI- 
FREEZING  MIXTURES;  TABLE  OF  MOTOR  TROUBLES  WITH 
CAUSES  AND  REMEDIES. 

FEW  motor-owners  realize  the  importance  of  being 
provided  with  proper  tools,  and  this  is  especially  true 
where  marine  or  stationary  motors  are  concerned.  Every 
motor  should  have  a  tool  box  or  chest  or  a  tool-roll 
within  easy  reach,  and  the  tools  should  always  be  kept 
in  good  condition  and  ready  for  use.  Many  a  motor- 
operator  may  be  found  whose  only  tools  are  an  old 
rusty  bicycle  wrench,  a  dull  or  bent  screw-driver,  and 
an  old  claw  hammer.  Tools  are  cheap  and  comparatively 
few  are  required.  A  superabundance  of  tools  is  a 
nuisance,  and  the  aim  of  the  operator  should  be  to  have 
a  tool  for  every  emergency  and  for  each  particular  use, 
but  not  to  duplicate  them.  The  following  tools  are 
really  essential  in  connection  with  any  motor: 

A  "Stilson"  or  pipe  wrench  capable  of  handling  any 
pipe  on  the  motor;  if  this  cannot  be  procured,  owing  to 
the  variation  in  size  of  pipes,  two  or  more  Stilson 
wrenches  should  be  on  hand. 

A  monkey  or  "Coe"  wrench  large  enough  to  handle 
the  heaviest  nuts  and  unions  on  the  engine  or  exhaust. 

A  small  "Coe"  wrench  capable  of  handling  the  small- 
est nuts;  a  good  bicycle  wrench  will  answer  for  this,  or  a 

208 


•THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE  209 

set  of  spanner  wrenches  to  fit  the  various  nuts  may  be 
used. 

A  medium-sized  —  six-  or  eight-inch  —  "  Westcott" 
wrench  or  a  set  of  "S"  wrenches. 

A  pair  of  combined  cutting  pliers  and  tweezers. 

A  pair  of  round-nosed  pliers. 

Small,  medium,  and  large-sized  screw-drivers,  or  a 
set  of  screw-driver  blades  with  an  adjustable  handle. 

A  small  or  medium-sized  machinist's  hammer  with 
round  pein. 

A  half-inch  cold  chisel. 

A  centre,  or  prick,  punch. 

A  hollow  punch. 

A  flat  or  "bastard"  file,  a  round  file,  and  a  three- 
cornered  file. 

An  assortment  of  copper  and  iron  wire  of  various 
sizes. 

Assorted  machine  screws.  Assorted  cap  screws  and 
nuts.  Assorted  plain  and  lock  washers.  Assorted  cotter 
pins. 

In  case  there  are  any  nuts  or  bolts  which  cannot  be 
readily  reached  with  an  ordinary  wrench,  socket  wrenches 
should  be  provided,  for  such  nuts  or  bolts  are  invariably 
the  ones  that  need  attention  oftenest. 

In  addition  to  the  above  tools  there  are  many  others 
which  will  prove  very  useful  at  times,  especially  if  you 
expect  to  make  your  own  repairs.  A  breast  drill  with  a 
good  assortment  of  drills  is  a  useful  and  handy  tool, 
and  a  bit-stock  with  various-sized  twist  drills  is  also 
very  useful.  By  drilling  a  small  hole  with  the  breast 
drill,  a  large  twist  drill  will  readily  bore  through  iron 
14 


210  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

or  brass  with  an  ordinary  bit-stock,  the  larger  drill 
following  the  small  hole  very  easily. 

In  connection  with  the  drills,  reamers  and  counter- 
sinks should  be  on  hand,  and  if  much  metal-boring  is  to 
be  done  a  self-feeding  chain  attachment  for  the  bit-brace 
should  be  added.  By  means  of  this  handy  tool  large 
holes  can  be  rapidly  and  easily  bored  through  iron  or 
steel  without  any  great  trouble  or  strength  being  re- 
quired. Hack  saws  are  very  useful  and  in  fact  almost 
indispensable,  and  screw  slotters  to  fit  the  hack-saw 
frame  will  save  much  time  and  trouble  in  using  old 
screws.  An  exceedingly  useful  tool  is  the  Vixen  milling 
tool.  This  is  a  hardened  steel  blade  with  sharp,  curved 
teeth  and  is  used  like  a  file.  It  will  cut  ten  times  as 
rapidly  and  easily  as  a  file  and  will  never  clog,  even 
when  used  on  lead,  copper,  or  aluminum.  New  blades 
may  be  purchased  at  a  small  cost  and  the  old  ones  recut 
or  sharpened  at  trifling  expense,  but  under  the  severest 
use  a  blade  will  usually  last  two  years  or  more. 

Machine  taps  and  dies  are  very  useful  and  save  many 
times  their  cost  in  a  season,  as  well  as  the  trouble  of 
running  to  a  machine  shop  for  every  screw  thread  you 
want  cut.  Pipe  taps  and  dies  are  also  handy,  but  most 
pipe  fittings  are  so  cheap  and  so  readily  procured  that 
they  hardly  pay  unless  one  does  considerable  pipe-fitting 
or  is  a  long  distance  from  a  dealer  in  pipes  and  fittings. 
Calipers  are  useful,  and  an  assortment  of  cold  chisels, 
cape  chisels,  and  punches  will  prove  of  great  value. 

Every  motor-owner  should  learn  the  proper  use  and 
care  of  tools,  for  a  rusty,  dull,  or  broken  tool  is  worse 
than  none  at  all,  and  there  is  no  excuse  for  keeping  tools 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,  AND  CARE  211 

in  poor  condition.  Around  salt  water  tools  rust  very 
quickly,  but  if  greased  every  few  days  the  corrosion 
will  not  cause  any  trouble.  You  should  not  expect  to 
work  metal  as  easily  as  wood,  even  with  the  best  tools, 
and  many  a  good  tool  is  injured  or  broken  by  trying 
to  force  it.  Slow  and  sure  is  the  way  to  work  metal, 
and  trying  to  drill  too  rapidly  is  sure  to  result  in  broken 
drills,  while  using  too  much  force  on  a  nut  or  bolt  will 
result  in  stripped  threads  or  broken  bolt  heads.  A 
very  light  blow  with  a  hammer  will  often  start  a  nut 
or  joint,  but  wherever  the  surface  struck  joins  another 
surface  a  piece  of  hardwood  or  a  strip  of  copper  or  lead 
should  be  placed  over  it  before  striking.  Great  care 
should  be  used  in  striking  cast  iron,  or  a  crack  or  break 
will  result;  high-grade  cast  iron  will  chip  or  crack 
almost  like  glass  and  a  hammer  should  never  be  used 
without  wood  or  soft  metal  under  it  when  striking  cast 
iron.  Sometimes  an  obstinate  nut  or  bolt  may  be 
readily  started  with  a  cold  chisel  and  hammer,  but  you 
should  not  use  enough  force  to  shear  off  a  corner  of  the 
nut.  Hold  the  chisel  at  an  angle  against  one  side  of  the 
nut  and  strike  gently.  After  it  is  started  the  burr  made 
by  the  chisel  should  be  smoothed  off  with  a  file.  Tur- 
pentine is  very  useful  in  drilling,  sawing,  or  filing  metal, 
and  many  tight  pipe  joints  or  screw  threads  will  come 
apart  easily  after  soaking  a  few  hours  in  turpentine. 
Kerosene  is  good  also,  and  in  case  a  pipe  joint  or  thread 
is  badly  stuck  it  may  be  soaked  in  kerosene  and  then 
ignited.  The  burning  kerosene  will  usually  expand  the 
joint  enough  to  break  the  corrosion  and  then  by  soaking 
in  turpentine  the  joint  will  be  easy  to  separate. 


212  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

Sometimes,  even  with  the  greatest  care,  a  cap-screw 
or  stud  will  break  off  in  the  hole.  To  remove  the  broken 
piece  is  often  very  difficult  and  sometimes  it  is  absolutely 
necessary  to  rebore  and  thread  the  hole.  Many  times, 
.however,  the  stub  may  be  unscrewed  by  boring  a  hole 
in  it  and  tapping  with  a  left-handed  thread  of  smaller 
size.  By  screwing  a  left-handed  screw  into  this  and 
setting  up  tight  the  tendency  will  be  to  unscrew  the 
right-hand  thread  on  the  broken  stub.  Many  times  a 
bolt  or  screw  thread  becomes  badly  worn  or  rusted  and 
the  bolt  or  nut  will  not  hold.  Usually  it  is  always  best 


CS) 


Fig-  139- — Tightening  Old  Bolt 

to  retap  the  hole  and  use  a  new  bolt,  but  in  many  cases 
such  methods  are  impossible.  At  such  times  the  thread 
may  be  made  to  hold  like  new  by  slitting  the  end  of  the 
bolt  or  screw  and  spreading  the  sides  slightly,  or  in  the 
case  of  large  bolts  by  driving  in  a  small  wedge  (Fig.  139). 
If  the  nut  is  worn  and  the  bolt  is  all  right,  the  former 
may  be  made  tight  by  heating  to  red  heat  and  then 
sprinkling  cold  water  around  the  outer  side.  This  will 
shrink  the  nut  considerably  and  result  in  a  snug  fit. 
The  application  of  heat  for  expanding  metal  is  often 
very  useful,  and  many  joints  can  be  taken  apart  or  put 
together  when  hot  that  cannot  be  started  when  cold. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  213 

Loose  sprockets,  cams,  wheels,  etc.,  can  all  be  made  very 
tight  by  expanding  the  pieces  with  heat  and  while  still 
hot  putting  them  together  and  allowing  them  to  shrink 
to  a  close  fit.  Sometimes  a  nut  which  is  not  held  by  a 
lock  washer  or  cotter  pin  may  become  loose  and  give 
considerable  trouble.  This  may  be  easily  overcome 
by  sawing  a  little  less  than  half-way  through  the  nut 
and  then  springing  the  two  parts  close  together.  A  nut 
treated  in  this  way  will  hold  like  a  lock  nut  and  will 


Fig.  140. — Slit  Locknut 

never  loosen  (Fig.  140).  Care  should  be  taken,  however, 
not  to  cut  the  slit  too  deep  or  too  wide,  or  the  threads 
will  be  stripped  in  screwing  it  on. 

Very  often  one  requires  a  pipe-fitting  of  a  smaller  or 
larger  size  and  has  no  reducer  or  bushing  at  hand.  At 
such  times  the  man  provided  with  pipe  taps  and  dies 
may  make  excellent  reducers  by  using  short  pieces  of 
standard  brass  pipe.  In  brass  pipe  each  size  will  thread 
inside  for  the  next  smaller  size:  thus  >^-mch  pipe  may 
be  threaded  for  1/8;  3/8  for  1/4;  1/2  for  3/8;  3/4  for 
1/2;  i-inch  for  3/4,  etc.  Iron  pipe  will  not  thread  so 
accurately,  but  in  many  cases  a  thread  can  be  cut  in 
iron  pipe  that  will  answer  for  an  emergency.  Pipe- 
couplings  may  also  be  used  as  reducers  by  threading  the 
outside  for  the  next  larger  sized  fitting,  but  they  are 
harder  to  handle  and  do  not  make  as  good  reducers  as 
the  pieces  of  brass  pipe. 


214 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


In  threading  brass  rods  it  will  often  be  found  that  the 
same  sized  die  as  the  nut  used  will  not  allow  the  nut  to 
be  screwed  on.  In  such  cases  the  rod  should  be  slightly 
filed  down  or  rubbed  with  emery  before  threading. 
Brass  has  a  tendency  to  bind  when  it  fits  tightly,  and 
threads  on  brass  can  always  be  made  with  more  play 
than  on  iron.  In  using  i /4-inch  machine  thread  nuts  it  is 
often  advisable  to  use  a  No.  14  thread  with  the  same 
pitch  in  threading  bars  for  the  nut. 

If  you  should  require  a  pipe  wrench  and  have  none  at 


Fig.  141. — Monkey-wrench  as  Pipe  Wrench 

hand  you  can  often  handle  a  pipe  successfully  by  placing 
a  three-cornered  file  in  a  monkey  wrench  and  using 
this  on  the  pipe  (see  Fig.  141).  Old  files  that  are  clogged 
and  dull  may  be  readily  cleaned  and  made  as  good  as  new 
by  soaking  for  a  short  time  in  sulphuric  acid  and  water. 
The  solution  should  be  weak — about  i  ounce  of  acid  to 
2  quarts  of  water — and  after  soaking  a  few  hours  the 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE  215 

files  should  be  washed  thoroughly  in  a  strong  soda 
solution,  brushed  off  clean,  and  dried  by  heat  and  then 
oiled. 

In  plugging  old  holes  with  bolts  or  pipe  plugs  there  is 
often  great  difficulty  in  getting  them  to  hold  tightly 
and  not  leak.  This  is  often  the  case  in  holes  tapped  in 
water  jackets  where  the  metal  around  the  hole  has  rusted 
away  until  so  thin  that  it  will  not  hold  the  thread.  Such 
holes  may  be  covered  by  brazing  on  a  piece  of  metal 
or  by  fastening  a  patch  of  metal  over  the  hole  by  means 
of  several  small  screws  and  a  packing  between  the  jacket 
and  the  patch.  The  former  requires  a  professional 
brazer,  while  the  latter  takes  considerable  time,  and  if 
the  jacket  is  rusted  badly  you  may  find  several  holes 
to  plug  instead  of  one  covered  up.  A  very  good  method 
under  such  conditions  is  to  file  the  hole  oblong  or  oval, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  142,  A .  Then  cut  a  piece  of  stiff  brass  or 
soft  steel  or  iron  just  large  enough  to  slip  into  the  hole 
(Fig.  142,  B).  Bore  a  hole  through  the  centre  of  this 
piece  and  fasten  it  on  the  end  of  a  short  bolt  or  screw 
by  threading  and  rivetting  (Fig.  142,  C).  Thread  the 
bolt  or  screw  on  the  other  end  almost  to  the  piece  of 
metal.  Slip  the  metal  piece  into  the  hole  and  turn 
around  so  that  the  long  ends  are  across  the  short  diam- 
eter of  the  hole.  Put  a  piece  of  packing  over  the  pro- 
jecting bolt  (Fig.  142,  Z>),  place  an  iron  or  brass  patch 
over  the  packing  (Fig.  142,  £),  and  screw  the  whole 
down  firmly  against  the  outside  of  the  jacket  by  a  nut 
on  the  threaded  bolt  as  illustrated  in  Fig.  142,  and  k 
will  be  found  a  most  satisfactory  way  to  stop  up  old 
holes  or  leaks  in  many  places.  If  the  cylinder  is  a  small 


216 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


one  the  inner  piece  of  metal,  or  yoke,  as  well  as  the  outer 
patch,  must  be  bent  or  filed  to  a  curve  to  fit  the  jacket; 
but  in  large  cylinders  the  curve  is  so  slight  that  only 
the  outer  patch  need  be  curved.  The  only  danger  in 
using  this  method  lies  in  setting  up  the  nut  too  tight 
and  thus  cracking  or  breaking  the  metal  around  the 
hole. 

Small  cracks  or  leaks  in  cylinders  or  jackets  may 
often  be  stopped  by  filling  with  a  strong  solution  of 


Fig.  142. — Repairing  Leak  in  Jacket 

sal  ammoniac  and  water  until  well  rusted  up.  In  large 
holes  or  leaks  a  better  method  is  to  fill  the  opening 
with  a  cement  of  some  sort.  Various  cements  are  made 
to  withstand  heat,  water,  and  oil  in  iron  or  metal,  but 
either  of  the  following  will  prove  excellent  and  may  also 
be  used  to  advantage  in  fitting  pipe-joints  where  a 
permanent  connection  is  desired  or  in  placing  under 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  217 

a  patch  as  described  above  or  for  fastening  a  plug  in  a 
hole. 

FOR  IRON  FOR  GENERAL  USE  WHERE 

Sal  ammoniac         4  parts  HEAT  IS  NOT  TO°  GREAT 

Sulphur  2      "  Red  lead  5  parts 

Iron  filings  32      "  Litharge  5     " 

Mix  to  a  paste  with  water.  Mix  to  a  stiff  putty  with  glyce- 

rine. 
FOR  IRON  OR  OTHER  METALS 

Dry  white  lead       6  parts  FoR  GENERAL  USE 

Sulphur  flowers      6     "  Graphite  10  parts 

Powdered  borax     I  part  Whiting  3 

Mix  to  a  thin  paste  with  strong          Litharge  3 

sulphuric  acid  and  use  at  once.       Mix  to  a  paste  with  boiled  lin- 
seed-oil. 

Small  leaks,  as  well  as  compression  leaks  in  crank 
cases,  around  bearings  or  in  cylinder  heads,  may  be 
stopped  by  cleaning  the  parts  and  coating  with  shellac. 
After  the  first  coat  is  thoroughly  dry  a  second  or  even  a 
third  coat  should  be  given.  Paint  or  putty  should  never 
be  used  to  stop  leaks  in  a  motor,  but  white  or  red  lead 
will  often  serve  on  water-pipe  connections.  A  leak  in  a 
water-pipe  may  also  be  stopped  by  winding  with  adhesive 
rubber  tape,  and  even  a  grease-soaked  cloth  or  rag  may 
be  used  for  this  purpose  with  good  success  in  case  of 
emergency.  One  of  the  best  methods  of  stopping  a  leak 
in  a  radiator,  tank,  water-jacket,  or  pipe  is  to  use  chew- 
ing-gum. Place  a  piece  of  well-masticated  gum  over  the 
leak  and  wrap  well  with  adhesive  rubber  tape  or  strips 
of  cloth.  This  will  make  a  perfectly  tight  repair  and 
will  last  a  long  time.  I  have  seen  a  hole  an  inch  in 
diameter  patched  in  this  way  stand  daily  use  for  over  two 
years  and  then,  even  though  the  tank  had  rusted  out 


218  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

and  had  been  discarded,  the  chewing-gum  patch  was 
still  tight  and  firm.  If  small  leaks  occur  in  the  pipes  or 
radiator  they  may  be  temporarily  stopped  by  sprinkling 
fine  cornmeal  or  bran  in  the  water.  This  should  be  done 
while  the  engine  is  running  or  trouble  will  result.  The 
meal  or  bran  finds  its  way  to  every  crack  and  cranny 
in  the  system,  and  where  there  is  a  leak  it  clogs  the 
latter  and  swells  tight.  If  the  meal  is  placed  in  the  water 
when  the  motor  is  idle  it  will  form  masses  in  the  joints 
and  curves  and  cause  complete  stoppage  of  the  circula- 
tion. One  of  the  worst  cases  of  overheating  I  ever  saw 
was  caused  in  this  way.  The  meal  or  bran  should  be 
scattered  in  the  water  slowly  and  gradually,  "and  very 
little  used;  generally  a  couple  of  -large  spoonfuls  is 
enough. 

Sometimes  a  bearing  will  become  worn  or  cut  and  lose 
compression  when  it  is  impossible  to  get  new  ones  with- 
out laying  up  the  motor  for  some  time.  Bearings  that 
are  loose  may  often  be  tightened  up  by  means  of  a  set- 
screw  placed  in  the  bearing  box  as  shown  in  Fig.  143. 
With  bearings  made  in  cylindrical  form  this  of  course 
cannot  be  done,  but  with  split  bearings  it  often  works 
very  well. 

Occasionally  you  may  have  some  soldered  joint  come 
apart  or  work  loose  when  no  soldering  appliances  are 
available.  It  will  be  very  difficult  to  resolder  such  a 
joint  unless  a  gasolene  torch  is  at  hand,  but  if  you  are 
in  an  automobile  and  have  gas  or  acetylene  headlights 
the  joint  may  be  readily  sweated  or  brazed  together  in 
the  intensely  hot  flame  of  these  lamps.  It  is  always 
advisable,  however,  to  be  provided  with  some  one  of  the 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


219 


various  prepared  soldering  compounds  which  may  be 
used  with  a  common  match  or  oil  lamp,  or  even  with  a 
candle. 

One  of  the  commonest  troubles  with  four-cycle  engines 
is  leakage  around  the  exhaust  valve.  As  soon  as  the 
valve  becomes  pitted  or  worn  it  must  be  reground,  for 
otherwise  the  hot  gases  will  rapidly  cut  and  burn  away 
the  valve  until  the  motor  is  powerless.  It  is  very  easy 
to  grind  in  a  valve,  and  yet  many  owners  and  operators 
never  attempt  to  do  it  but  go  to  a  repair  shop  or  garage 
and  pay  to  have  it  done,  and  very  often  poorly  or 


Fig.  143. — Set-screw  to  Tighten  Bearing 

improperly  done  at  that.  To  grind  in  a  valve  the  spring 
and  foot  must  be  first  removed.  This  is  often  very  easily 
done  by  hand,  but  in  some  cases  it  will  be  found  difficult 
to  get  out  the  cotter  holding  the  foot  in  place  without 
holding  the  spring  up  by  mechanical  means.  Various 
valve-lifting  devices  may  be  purchased  for  doing  this, 
but  a  home-made  affair  as  shown  in  Fig.  144  will  answer 
every  purpose.  After  the  spring  and  foot  are  removed 
lift  out  the  valve  from  its  seat  and  clean  the  surface  of 
valve  and  seat  thoroughly.  If  the  valve  chamber  is 


220 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


readily  removed  from  the  cylinder  it  is  best  to  do  so; 
but  if  not,  the  cylinder  should  be  thoroughly  plugged 
with  rags  or  cotton  waste.  Now  spread  a  thin  layer  of 
fine  emery  and  cylinder  oil  on  the  surface  of  the  valve 
and  place  in  its  seat.  With  a  screw-driver  inserted  in  the 
slot  on  top  of  the  valve,  press  the  valve  firmly  down  and 
while  exerting  a  steady  pressure  turn  it  rapidly  back 
and  forth  on  its  seat.  Lift  the  valve  occasionally  and 


Fig.  144. — Valve-lifter 

turn  it  to  a  new  position  and  continue  rotating.  After 
a.  few  minutes  you  will  find  the  grinding  or  "gritty"  feel 
of  the  valve  has  disappeared  and  that  it  moves  about 
more  smoothly  and  quietly.  Now  remove  the  valve  and 
wipe  off  all  the  emery  and  oil  on  the  valve  face  and  seat. 
If  a  clean  bright  surface  shows  all  around,  the  valve 
is  sufficiently  ground,  but  if  spots  or  streaks  of  dull  or 


THEIR   OPERATION,    USE,   AND   CARE 


221 


black  metal  show  here  and  there  the  operation  should 
be  repeated  until  the  entire  surface  is  smooth  and  bright. 
In  grinding  be  careful  not  to  press  down  too  hard 
or  to  get  dirt  or  filings  mixed  with  the  grinding  mixture, 
or  the  valve  will  be  ruined.  After  the  grinding  is  complete 
the  seat,  valve,  surfaces  around  the  valve  seat,  and  all 
other  parts  where  emery  may  have  lodged  should  be 
carefully  wiped  and  cleaned,  for  a  minute  quantity  of 
emery  getting  into  the  cylinder  will  soon  ruin  it  or  a  little 
left  under  the  valve  will  soon  cut  it  worse  than  before. 
Some  valves  are  not  provided  with  a  slot  in  the  top  for  a 


Fig.  145. — Valve-grinding  Tool 

screw-driver,  and  in  such  cases  there  are  generally  two 
small,  round  holes.  With  valves  of  this  sort  you  should 
use  either  a  regular  tool  made  for  the  purpose  or  should 
make  a  tool  from  an  old  auger  as  shown  in  Fig.  145. 
After  the  valve  is  ground  and  in  place  you  should  exam- 
ine the  stem  to  see  that  it  does  not  project  so  far  that  it 
always  touches  the  tappet  or  push-rod  when  the  latter 
is  in  the  position  for  the  valve  being  closed.  If  the  grind- 
ing has  allowed  the  valve  to  drop  down  until  this  occurs, 


222  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

the  tappet  or  rod  should  be  filed  off  until  about  1/32 
of  an  inch  is  left  between  the  end  of  the  valve  stem  and 
the  push-rod  or  tappet.  Never  file  off  the  end  of  the 
valve  stem,  as  in  this  case  a  new  valve  will  prove  too 
long  when  placed  in  the  old  seat.  New  valves  should 
always  be  ground  into  the  seats,  and  a  newly  ground 
valve  will  never  be  quite  tight  until  it  has  been  operated 
for  some  time. 

Emery  and  oil  is  an  excellent  grinding  compound,  but 
Tripoli,  rotten-stone,  or  very  fine  pumice  will  give  a 
smoother  and  more  beautiful  finish,  although  the  grinding 
will  take  longer  with  these  materials  than  with  emery. 
Various  valve-grinding  compounds  are  on  the  market; 
and  some  of  these  that  are  composed  of  carborundum, 
and  come  in  the  form  of  a  paste  in  collapsible  tubes,  are 
the  finest  and  handiest  of  preparations  for  grinding 
valves.  Being  in  a  tight  tube  and  already  mixed,  there 
is  no  danger  of  foreign  matter  or  grit  getting  in  and  the 
consistency  of  the  compound  always  remains  the  same. 
A  tube  of  this  material  should  be  in  the  kit  of  every  user 
of  a  four-cycle  motor. 

Even  when  the  valves  are  well  ground  in  and  perfectly 
adjusted  a  motor  will  sometimes  lose  compression  and 
yet  it  will  be  next  to  impossible  to  discover  the  joint 
or  crack  where  the  trouble  occurs.  At  such  times  the 
leak  may  be  readily  located  by  squirting  soapsuds  around 
each  joint  while  the  motor  is  running.  Wherever  a 
leak  occurs  the  suds  will  form  bubbles  and  you  will 
often  be  surprised  to  find  how  many  unsuspected  leaks 
there  are  in  your  motor  when  you  test  it  by  this  method. 

A  great  deal  of  valve  trouble  may  be  avoided  by 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


223 


placing  a  small  ball  race  or  thrust  between  the  spring 
and  valve  foot  as  shown  in  Fig.  146.  When  this  is  done 
the  valve  revolves  slightly  each  time  it  seats,  and  is  thus 
continually  resting  on  a  new  spot,  causing  less  wear  and 
liability  to  cut  or  pit. 

A  great  many  compression  leaks  may  be  traced  to  the 
priming  or  relief  cocks.  These  cocks 
become  exceedingly  hot  through  their 
direct  connection  with  the  interior  of 
the  firing  chamber  and  are  therefore 
subject  to  very  severe  conditions.  In 
order  to  be  gas-tight  they  are  pro- 
vided with  a  stiff  spring  to  hold  the 
conical  valve  in  position,  and  the  heat 
frequently  destroys  the  temper  of  this 
spring  and  allows  the  valve  to  shake 
loose.  Oil  and  gasolene  also  tend  to 
gum  up  the  cock  and  prevent  it 
shutting  gas-tight,  and  often  the  cock  will  leak  con- 
siderably without  visible  evidence.  A  cock  manu- 
factured by  the  Morgan  Mfg.  Co.  of  Newport,  R.  I., 
and  designed  to  overcome  the  many  difficulties  of  spring 
seating  cocks,  is  illustrated  in  Fig.  147.  This  is  a  dis- 
tinct advance  in  this  line  of  accessories  and  is  a  good 
illustration  of  how  little  things  can  be  improved  to  add 
greatly  to  the  efficiency  and  service  of  a  motor. 

Many  motor  troubles  are  caused  by  an  accumulation 
of  soot  and  carbon  in  the  cylinders,  firing  chamber, 
valve  chambers,  or  one  of  the  spark  plugs  or  sparking 
electrodes.  The  quickest  method  of  removing  such 
deposits  is  by  using  one  of  the  various  carbon-removers 


Fig.  146. — Valve 
with  Ball-race 


224  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

on  the  market.  Care  should  be  taken  in  using  these  to 
see  that  none  of  the  compound  is  left  in  the  motor  or 
the  crank  case,  as  they  will  injure  the  engine  unless 
thoroughly  removed  and  the  parts  well  oiled  afterward. 
Only  light  deposits  and  gummed  oil  can  be  thoroughly 
removed  in  this  way,  and  for  such  accumulations  plain 
kerosene  oil  will  work  almost  as  well  and  is  safer  and 
cheaper.  Where  the  deposits  have  become  thick  and 


Fig.  147. — "Morgan"  Priming-cup 

hard  they  must  be  removed  by  scraping  and  to  do  this 
the  cylinder  head  and  other  parts  must  be  removed. 
To  thoroughly  clean  the  carbon  deposits  from  a  neglected 
motor  is  a  disagreeable,  dirty,  and  tiresome  job;  but 
with  decent  care  and  attention  there  is  no  need  of  ever 
being  obliged  to  do  it.  Good  oil,  and  not  too  much  of  it, 
will  prevent  carbon  from  forming;  and  if  once  in  a  while 
the  cylinders  are  wiped  out  with  kerosene,  and  the  spark 
plugs  and  valves  cleaned,-  there  will  be  no  danger  of 
being  troubled  with  carbon  and  soot. 

In  removing  piston  rings  great  care  should  be  used,  as 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


225 


these  are  very  brittle  and  break  easily.  By  spreading 
the  rings  slightly  with  a  pair  of  pliers,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  148,  and  then  inserting  strips  of  thin  tin  or  brass 
beneath  them,  they  will  slip  off  easily  (Fig.  149) ;  new 
rings  should  be  put  on  in  the  same  way.  The  last  or 
lowest  ring  should  be  taken  off  first  and  the  others  in 


Fig.  148. — Spreading 
Rings  with  Pliers 


Fig.  149. — Shims  for 
Removing  Rings 


regular  order,  and  in  replacing  them  the  reverse  order 
should  be  followed,  as  otherwise  the  rings  will  slip  into 
the  empty  grooves  and  cause  lots  of  trouble. 

Special  pliers  should  be  used  for  spreading  the  rings, 
as  they  must  work  in  exactly  the  opposite  manner  from 
ordinary  pliers;  that  is,  the  nose  should  open  instead 
of  shut  when  the  handles  are  brought  together.  Such 
pliers  may  be  purchased  ready-made,  but  are  easily 
constructed  from  pieces  of  steel  rod  bound  together 
with  wire  for  a  joint  as  shown  in  Fig.  150.  Oftentimes 
rings  will  fail  to  hold  compression  when  they  are  not 
15 


226  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

worn  out,  through  oil  becoming  gummed  and  hardened 
in  the  groove,  thus  preventing  the  rings  from  moving 
about  or  springing  properly.  If  the  grooves  are  found 
filled  with  hard  oil  they  should  be  thoroughly  cleaned 
and  freshly  oiled  before  replacing  either  old  or  new  rings. 
If  the  rings  show  smooth  and  bright  all  around  it  proves 
that  there  is  no  leakage  past  them,  but  if  blue-black 
or  discolored  spots  show  it  indicates  a  leak.  In  cylinders 


Fig.  150. — Pliers  for  Spreading  Rings 

with  separate  heads,  where  the  piston  is  lifted  up  through 
the  top,  it  is  often  very  difficult  to  replace  the  piston 
and  rings.  By  placing  bolts  or  screws  in  the  stud  holes 
of  the  cylinder  and  pushing  wooden  wedges  between 
these  and  the  rings,  the  piston  may  be  easily  replaced 
(Fig.  151,  W).  Strips  of  brass  or  tin  may  also  be  used 
as  shown  in  Fig.  152,  5,  S,  and  will  save  trouble  and 
broken  rings. 

Most  engines  have  considerable  bright  brass  work 
about  them,  and  it  adds  greatly  to  the  appearance  of  any 
motor  to  have  this  kept  bright  and  clean.  Hundreds  of 
metal-polishes  are  on  the  market  and  some  of  these  are 
good,  some  poor,  and  some  will  destroy  the  metal  faster 
than  they  polish  it.  Avoid  any  polish  that  cleanses  by 
chemicals  or  acids.  Any  polish  that  smells  of  ammonia 
or  that  will  affect  litmus  paper  for  an  acid  test  should 
be  avoided  by  all  means.  Such  polishes  will  give  a 


'  THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE  227 

quick  and  brilliant  finish,  but  the  surface  of  the  metal 
will  corrode  all  the  faster  afterward  and  will  soon 
become  eaten  and  pitted  until  ruined.  It  is  far  safer  and 
better  to  make  your  own  polish  and  it  will  cost  far  less 
in  the  end.  For  rough  work,  where  old  corroded  brass 
is  to  be  cleaned,  cylinder  oil  and  the  finest  pumice  stone 
may  be  used,  but  for  ordinary  work  or  on  brass  that  is 
in  good  condition  a  mixture  of  rotten-stone  and  oil, 
crocus  powder  and  oil,  jeweler's  rouge  and  oil,  or  oil  and 


Fig.  151. — Wedges  for  Putting  in  Piston 

whiting  should  be  used.  If  a  more  liquid  polish  is  desired, 
a  little  kerosene  may  be  added  until  the  desired  consist- 
ency is  obtained,  while  a  paste  may  be  made  by  adding 
hot  parafnne  or  tallow  until  the  mass  partly  solidifies 
when  cold.  After  polishing  with  any  of  the  above  a 
highly  finished  result  will  be  obtained  by  wiping  with 
kerosene  and  rubbing  with  precipitated  chalk. 

Steel  or  iron  that  has  become  rusty  but  should  have 


228 


GASOLENE  ENGINES 


a  bright  finish  may  be  polished  by  scouring  with  emery 
and  oil  or  emery  paper,  and  afterwards  finishing  with 
pumice  and  oil  or  rotten-stone  and  oil.  It  is  better, 
however,  to  finish  all  iron  and  steel  with  paint  or  enamel. 
Any  good  engine  enamel  will  answer  for  most  places, 
but  on  the  exhaust  and  cylinders  a  special  enamel 
should  be  used.  For  cylinders  the  highest-grade  engine 
enamel  should  be  used  or  an  enamel  made  by  mixing 
the  color  desired  with  the  best  quality  Japan  varnish. 


Fig   152. — Shims  for  Inserting  Piston 

On  exhaust  pipes  and  mufflers  few  paints  or  enamels 
will  stand,  but  graphite  mixed  with  linseed-oil  will  last 
longer  than  any  other  compound.  Before  applying 
paint  or  enamel  to  any  part  of  a  motor  the  portion  to  be 
painted  must  be  thoroughly  cleaned  from  grease  or 
oil  and  smoothed  bright  and  clean  with  emery  paper. 
Old  paint  or  enamel  should  be  smoothed  off  with  emery 
paper,  and  if  any  looseness  or  cracks  appear  the  old  paint 
should  be  burned  and  chipped  off  to  the  iron.  Parts 
that  rub  or  bear  together,  or  bearings,  should  not  be 
painted;  many  troubles  have  been  caused  by  painting 
springs,  valve  stems,  carburetors,  igniters,  and  wires. 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  229 

Where  belts  are  used  there  will  often  be  trouble  with 
their  slipping,  especially  where  the  drive  is  short. 
Around  water,  or  in  boats,  leather  belts  should  be 
avoided.  For  pump  drives,  etc.,  wire-coil  belting  or 
sprockets  and  chains  are  better  than  anything  else,  but 
even  wire  belts  will  at  times  slip  on  the  pulley  wheels. 
When  this  occurs  wrap  two  or  three  turns  of  adhesive 
tape  around  the  wheel  in  the  groove,  being  careful  to 
have  the  tape  wound  in  the  direction  of  drive  so  it  will 
not  work  up.  Cotton-web  belts  are  better  than  leather 
in  most  cases,  and  rubber  is  also  excellent;  while  for 
very  long  drives  nothing  excels  good  manila  rope  spliced 
together.  When  belts  slip  they  should  be  treated  with 
some  compound  or  belt-dressing.  Many  excellent  dress- 
ings are  on  the  market,  but  I  have  found  that  resin 
dissolved  in  gasolene  and  sprinkled  on  the  belt  is  the 
best  thing  in  an  emergency.  This  should  not  be  used 
freely  on  leather  belts,  however,  for  the  gasolene  soon 
ruins  the  leather.  Perhaps  the  best  material  for  making 
a  belt  stick  and  pull  is  common  tar  soap.  By  holding  a 
cake  of  this  against  a  moving  belt  it  can  be  evenly  dis- 
tributed and  the  belt  will  at  once  cease  slipping. 

In  winter  time  some  provision  should  be  made  for 
preventing  water  from  freezing  in  the  tanks,  pipes, 
radiator,  and  jacket  of  stationary  and  vehicle  motors. 
In  marine  engines  the  water  may  be  drained  off  to  pre- 
vent this  trouble,  but  in  automobiles  and  stationary 
engines  it  is  better  to  add  some  substance  to  the  water. 
Glycerine,  calcium  chloride,  salt,  and  various  other  sub- 
stances are  used,  but  these  are  all  more  or  less  injurious 
to  metals  or  rubber  pipe.  The  best  material  is  denatured 


230  GASOLENE  ENGINE^ 

Alcohol  This  is  cheap,  it  will  not  injure  any  portion 
of  the  motor,  and  it  will  prevent  freezing  even  at  the 
lowest  temperatures.  It  is  better  to  keep  too  much 
rather  than  too  little  alcohol  in  the  water,  and  as  the 
alcohol  evaporates  rapidly  when  heated  it  should  be  kept 
up  to  its  proper  percentage  by  adding  more  alcohol 
from  time  to  time.  When  all  danger  of  freezing  is  past, 
the  water  should  be  thoroughly  drained  off  and  new 
water  put  in  its  place.  I  have  usually  found  that  a 
xo-per-cent  solution  of  alcohol  (i  gallon  to  10  gallons  of 
water)  is  safe,  and  it  is  very  seldom  that  the  temperature 
goes  low  enough  to  endanger  a  mixture  of  this  propor- 
tion. If  alcohol  cannot  be  procured,  a  solution  of  equal 
parts  of  glycerine  and  water,  or  a  solution  of  5  pounds 
of  calcium  chloride  to  a  gallon  of  water  will  prove  per- 
fectly safe.  A  solution  that  is  said  to  be  non-corrosive 
and  will  withstand  a  temperature  of  20  degrees  below 
zero  is  made  by  combining  75  parts  of  carbonate  of 
potash  with  50  parts  of  glycerine  and  100  parts  (by 
weight)  of  water. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE 


231 


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worn  cylinder.  Loose  piece  of 
metal  in  cylinder.  Loose  fly- 
wheel. Loose  gears.  Broken 

igniter.  Loose  bearings.  Carbon 
deposit.  Poor  water  circulation. 
Pump  gland  striking  eccentric  rod 

or  plunger.  Poor  lubrication. 

Loose  or  worn  eccentric  straps. 
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241 


Cause  Remedy 

plunger  on  plunger  pump  place  packing.  Tighten  all  joints 
>r  leaky,  allowing  suction  of  on  intake  water-pipe.  Force  water 
Check  valves  in  water-pipe  or  air  back  through  outboard  inlet 
worn,  or  dirty.  Bits  of  metal  on  marine  motors.  Flush  water- 
ip  or  valves.  Racing  engine,  jacket  by  forcing  water  back 
too  much  retarded.  Not  through  it.  Use  an  exhaust  valve 
ti  lift  to  exhaust  valve.  Too  with  longer  stem.  Adjust  mixture 
gasolene.  Water-jacket  and  oil  feeds.  Stop  engine  at  once 
i  with  dirt  or  scale.  Drive  and  allow  to  cool  gradually.  Do 
np  broken  or  slipping.  Poor  not  throw  cold  water  on  it.  Oil 
ition.  Water  intake  choked  well  and  turn  over  by  hand  several 
times  before  attempting  to  start  it 
again.  Never  run  a  motor  when 

it  overheats, 
•r  lubrication.  Piston  rings  Pour  kerosene  through  head  of 
in  grooves.  Broken  or  worn  cylinder  and  turn  engine  over  a 
Cylinder  scored  from  using  number  of  times.  Oil  well  and 
n  rings.  Gummy  or  poor  oil.  drain  all  kerosene  from  base, 
leating.  Grit  or  rust  in  cyl-  Examine  rings  and  piston.  Clean 
Connecting  rod  or  piston-  grooves  and  replace  rings  or  use 
>earings  worn  out  of  true,  new  ones.  If  cylinder  is  scored 
ing  piston  to  cant  to  one  side  replace  or  have  rebored.  Examine 
am.  Connecting  rod  bent.  connecting  rod,  piston  pin,  and 
bearings.  Clean  out  all  carbon 

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3 


CHAPTER  IX 

GLOSSARY  OF  ALPHABETICALLY  ARRANGED  TECHNICAL  TERMS 
USED  IN  CONNECTION  WITH  GASOLENE  ENGINES,  WITH  EX- 
PLANATIONS.— VARIOUS  USEFUL  TABLES;  HEAT  VALUE  OF 
FUELS;  SIZE  AND  CAPACITY  OF  TANKS;  IRON-PIPE  SIZES; 
DRILL  SIZES  FOR  SCREW  HOLES;  UNITED  STATES  STANDARD 
SCREW  THREADS;  CAP- SCREW  SIZES;  FINDING  SURFACE  AND 
VOLUME. 

GLOSSARY  OF  TECHNICAL  TERMS 

Accelerator — Any  attachment  or  device  for  increasing  speed. 
Advanced  Spark — An  electrical  spark  produced  to  ignite  a  charge  of 

gas  in  a  motor  before  the  piston  reaches  the  upward  limit  of  its 

compression  stroke. 
Air  Lock — A  gathering  of  air  in  a  pipe  which  prevents  the  flow  of 

liquid  through  the  same. 

Annular — Pertaining  to  or  in  the  form  of  a  ring. 
Annular  Bearing — A  bearing  in  the  form  of  a  ring. 
Annular  Opening — A  ring-shaped  opening. 
Ampere — A   unit  of  electrical   measurement   nearly  analogous  to 

quantity. 
Ampmeter  (Ammeter) — An  instrument  for  indicating  or  measuring 

amperes. 

Armature — A  wire  coil  around  an  iron  core  used  in  producing  elec- 
tricity between  two  magnets,  as  in  a  dynamo. 
A  tmosphere — The  weight,  or  pressure,  of  air,  equivalent  to  15  pounds 

per  square  inch. 

Babbitt — A  composition  of  various  soft  metals  used  as  bearings  to 
overcome  friction.  Bearings  made  from  babbitt. 

Backfiring — The  backward  or  premature  explosion  of  a  gas  engine. 

Baffle  Plate — A  plate  or  partition  to  turn  or  stop  the  flow  or  force 
of  gases  or  other  matter. 

Balance  Weight — A  weight  attached  to  a  crank,  shaft,  or  wheel,  to 
balance  the  explosive  force  of  the  motor  and  lessen  vibration,  as 
well  as  to  overcome  the  tendency  to  a  dead  centre. 

246 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  247 

Ball  Bearing — A  bearing  in  which  revolving  steel  balls  aid  in  over- 
coming friction. 
Ball  Cage — A  metal  cup,  ring,  or  recess,  holding  the  balls  in  a  ball 

bearing. 
Ball  Check — A  check  valve  in  which  a  ball  fits  over  the  opening,  in 

place  of  a  regular  valve. 

Ball  Pein — The  round  end  of  a  machinist's  hammer. 
Ball  Race — Hardened  steel  washers,  or  disks,  against  which  the  balls 

bear  in  a  ball  bearing. 
Bearings — The  parts  on  which  a  revolving  surface  rests,  or  through 

which  it  passes  in  contact. 

Bed — The  surface  to  which  a  motor  is  fastened  by  its  bed  plate. 
Bed  Plate — The  flat  surface  at  the  base  of  a  motor  used  to  attach 

the  engine  to  its  bed. 
Bell  Crank — An  angular  crank  transmitting  power,  or  pull,  at  right 

angles. 
Bevel  Gear — Cog-wheels,  or  gears,  with  sloping  faces  for  transmitting 

power  at  an  angle. 
Binding  Post — The  post,  or  metal  object,  to  which  electrical  wires  are 

fastened. 

Boxes — The  metal  casings  which  contain,  or  hold,  bearings  in  place. 
Brasses — Bearings  of  bronze  or  brass  used  in  place  of  babbitt. 
Break   Spark — An   electrical    spark   produced   by   interrupting   or 

breaking  an  electrical  current. 

Breaker — An  object  for  breaking  or  interrupting  an  electrical  current. 
Brushes — Metal  or  carbon  points  used  to  gather  or  transmit  elec- 
tricity from  the  armature  of  a  magneto  to  the  wires. 
Burr — A  roughened  or  enlarged  edge,  or  end,  of  a  bolt,  shaft,  pipe, 

or  other  metal  object. 
Bushing — A  cylindrical  shell  or  casing  to  reduce  a  hole  in  a  pipe, 

wheel,  or  other  object  or  to  enlarge  the  object  that  passes  through 

a  hole. 

Butt  Spark — See  Kiss  Spark. 
By-pass — The  passage  through  which  the  explosive  gas  passes  from 

the  base  to  the  firing  chamber  of  a  two-cycle  motor. 

Cam— An.  irregular  or  variously  shaped  piece  attached  to  a  shaft 

and  so  designed  as  to  transmit  a  varying  motion. 
Cam  Gear — The  gear  used  to  operate  a  cam. 
Cam  Shaft — The  shaft,  or  spindle,  carrying  a  cam. 
Calorific  Power — The  power  actually  contained  in  a  unit  of  heat. 


248  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

Calorific  Value — The  number  of  thermal,  or  heat,  units  contained  in 

a  certain  quantity  of  fuel. 
Cap  Screw — A  form  of  machine  screw,  or  bolt,  having  a  square  or 

hexagonal  head. 
Carburetor — A  device  for  so  combining  or  mixing  liquid  fuel  with 

air  as  to  produce  an  explosive  or  combustible  gas. 
Castellated  Nut — A  nut  with  grooves  on  its  top,  to  hold  cotter  pins. 
Catalytic  Ignition — Ignition  by  the  use  of  spongy  platinum  which 

becomes  incandescent  in  contact  with  coal-gas  or  carbureted  air. 
Centrifugal  Governor — A  device  which  regulates  the  speed  of  an  engine 

by  the  centrifugal  force  of  weights  operating  through  springs  or 

other  devices. 
Centrifugal  Pump — A  pump  which  operates  by  a  revolving  fan  or 

wheel  within  a  casing,  and  which  forces  water  or  other  liquids  by 

centrifugal  force. 
Check  Valve — A  valve  so  constructed  that  the  valve  lifts  or  opens 

to  the  pressure  in  one  direction,  but  closes  or  seats  when  pressure 

is  exerted  in  the  opposite  direction. 
Choking — The  failure  of  a  motor  to  operate  properly  through  the 

surplus  of  oil,  fuel,  carbon,  or  restricted  passages  in  the  exhaust. 
Clearance — The  space  between  the  top  of  piston  at  its  upward  limit 

and  the  interior  of  the  top  of  the  cylinder;  space  between  any  two 

objects. 
Clutch — A  device  for  holding  motion  or  power  between  the  motor 

and  the  mechanism  to  be  operated  and  which  may  be  thrown  off 

or  released  at  will. 

Coil — Wire  wound  about  an  iron  core  used  to  create  a  greater  inten- 
sity in  the  electrical  current. 
Columbia  Locknut — A  form  of  nut  provided  with  a  tapered,  threaded 

bushing  within  a  nut;    so  designed  as  to  contract  or  grip  the 

thread  upon  which  it  is  screwed  and  thus  obviate  slipping  or 

working  loose. 
Combustion  Chamber — The  chamber  or  space  in  the  cylinder,  or 

connected  thereto,  in  which  the  gas  is  ignited  or  exploded. 
Commutator — A  revolving  or  oscillating  object  connected  to  the 

wires  of  anjirmature  and  through  the  action  of  which  the  elec- 
tricity is  transferred  by  brushes  to  the  wires.     Also  applied  to 

timers. 
Compression  Stroke — The  stroke  of  a  piston  which  compresses  the 

gas  in  the  cylinder  and  at  or  near  the  limit  of  which  the  ignition 

and  explosion  take  place. 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  249 

Compression  Cock — Same  as  Relief  Cock. 

Condenser — Numerous  sheets  of  tin-foil  placed  in  an  induction  coil 

and  connected  to  wires  across  the  interrupter.     Designed  to  reduce 

primary  sparking  at  the  contacts  and  to  increase  the  current. 
Connecting  Rod — The  arm  or  rod  connecting  the  piston  with  the 

crank  shaft. 
Constant  Oil  Feed — A  device  for  constantly  feeding  oil  while  the 

machine  is  in  operation.    A  force-feed  oiler. 
Contact  Points — The  points  through  which  an  electrical  contact  is 

made.     The  platinum  points  of  the  vibrator  or  of  the  electrodes 

on  a  make-and-break  igniter. 

Controller — A  device  for  controlling  any  mechanism. 
Cotter  Pin — A  metal  pin  with  the  two  ends  bent  around  so  as  to  lie 

close  together.     When  placed  in  a  hole  the  ends  are  separated, 

thus  preventing  the  cotter  from  slipping  out. 
Counterweight — The  same  as  Balance  Weight. 
Counterbalance — The  same  as  above. 

Coupling — Any  device  for  connecting  two  pipes,  rods,  or  shafts. 
Crank — The  offset  portion  of  a  shaft  to  which  the  connecting  rod 

is  attached  and  through  which  power  is  transmitted  to  the  shaft. 
Crank  (Starting) — The  crank  or  handle  for  turning  over  or  starting 

the  fly-wheel  of  the  motor. 
Cranking — The  operation  of  turning  over  the  fly-wheel  of  the  motor 

by  hand  to  start  the  engine. 

Crank  Case — The  case  or  recess  within  which  the  crank  revolves. 
Crank  Shaft — The  shaft  bearing  the  crank. 
Cross-head — The  piece  to  which  the  connecting  rod  is  attached  and 

to  which  the  piston  rod  is  also  fastened,  and  which  slides  in  guides, 

thus  transmitting  straight  linear  motion  to  a  crank  by  allowing  the 

connecting  rod  to  oscillate  on  a  pivot  through  the  cross-head. 
Current-breaker — A  device  for  interrupting  or  breaking  the  current 

of  electricity  to  produce  a  spark. 
Cut-out — A  device  for  allowing  the  exhaust  to  pass  directly  into  the 

air  without  going  through  the  muffler. 
Cylinder — The  portion  of  the  motor  which  contains  the  piston  and 

within  which  the  explosion  takes  place. 
Cylinder  Ribs — Metal   ribs,   or   flanges,   cast   upon   the   cylinder's 

external  surface  to  radiate  heat  and  cool  the  cylinder  in  air-cooled 

motors. 
Cycle — A  certain  period  of  time  within  which  the  same  events  occur 

regularly.     As  applied  to  gas  engines  it  is  practically  equivalent 


250  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

to  "stroke"  and  is  one-half  a  revolution  of  the  fly-wheel,  approx- 
imately. 

Cyclic  Phases — The  phases  or  changes  in  operation  during  each 
cycle  of  a  motor. 

Dead  Centre — That  portion  of  a  revolution  during  which  the  piston 
cannot  transmit  motion  to  the  crank;  the  upward  and  downward 
limits  of  the  stroke. 

Deflector — The  projection  from  the  top  of  the  piston  in  two-cycle 
motors  designed  to  prevent  the  inrushing  gas  from  passing  across 
and  mingling  with,  or  escaping  with,  the  exhaust  and  to  direct 
its  course  toward  the  top  of  the  cylinder. 

Diaphragm — A  thin  plate  or  partition,  usually  flexible. 

Die — A  tool  for  cutting  male  screw  threads  *on  rods  or  pipes. 

Die  Stock — The  handles  and  holder  for  holding  a  die  when  using  it. 

Differential  Gear — A  combination  of  gears,  or  wheels,  so  arranged 
that  motion  may  be  transmitted  to  different  speeds  or  powers, 
or  where  the  resistance  is  unequal  the  power  exerted  may  be 
equalized. 

Differential  Cam — A  cam  transmitting  varying  motions  or  powers. 

Differential  Piston — A  piston  composed  of  two  pistons  of  different 
sizes  and  operating  together  to  perform  separate  duties. 

Distillate — Denatured  alcohol  or  similar  fuels. 

Distributor — A  device  for  distributing  anything.  In  connection  with 
motors  it  is  usually  applied  to  a  form  of  electrical  device  which 
distributes  the  ignition  current  to  the  various  cylinders,  but  is 
also  applied  to  devices  for  feeding  oil  or  to  an  arrangement  for 
leading  the  charges  of  gas  to  various  cylinders  (see  Elmore  motor). 

Dog — A  mechanical  appliance  for  transmitting  certain  motions. 

Dowell — A  pin  or  key  used  to  hold  two  pieces  or  parts  together. 

Drop  Tee — A  pipe  fitting  in  the  form  of  a  tee  but  provided  with  a 
bracket  or  flange  for  fastening  to  a  wall  or  other  object. 

Drop  Ell — A  pipe  elbow  with  bracket  as  above. 

Dynamo — A  machine  for  generating  electricity  through  the  revolu- 
tion of  an  armature  between  electro-magnets. 

Dynamometer — A  device  for  ascertaining  the  power  necessary  to 
operate  a  machine  at  a  given  speed. 

Eccentric — A  circular  disk  set  on  a  revolving  shaft  with  its  centre 
out  of  true  with  that  of  the  shaft  and  used  to  transmit  recipro- 
cating motion  from  rotary  motion. 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  251 

Eddy  Current — A  current  or  irregular  flow  of  the  gas  caused  by  square 

or  rough  corners  in  the  passages  which  prevent  a  free  flow  to  cr 

from  the  cylinder. 
Electro-magnet — A  piece  of  iron  covered  with  a  coil  of  wire.    When 

an  electrical  current  is  passed  through  the  coil  the  iron  core 

becomes  highly  magnetic. 
Electrodes — The  two  points  carrying  the  electric  current   between 

which  a  spark  is  produced,  as  in  a  spark  plug. 
Exhaust — The  escape  of  the  burnt  gases  from  the  cylinder.     The 

opening  through  which  these  gases  escape. 
Exhaust  Valve — The  valve  which  allows  the  burnt  gases  to  escape 

from  the  cylinder. 
Expansion  Joint — A  joint  or  coupling  so  designed  as  to  be  capable 

of  expansion  and  contraction  by  one  side  sliding  over  the  other. 

Face — The  smooth  or  flat  surface  of  a  joint  or  wheel. 

Face  Plate — A  plate  of  metal  provided  with  clamps  by  the  use  of 

which  an  object  is  held  in  a  lathe  where  the  surface  is  to  be  turned 

off  or  faced. 
Faced  Joint — A  joint  made  by  having  the  two  surfaces  ground  smooth 

and  flat. 
Fan — A  revolving  wheel  or  disk  provided  with  blades  or  paddles 

for  circulating  air  about  a  motor  to  cool  it.    Applied  erroneously 

to  a  propeller  wheel. 
Feather  Vibrator — A  form  of  vibrator  of  very  delicate  construction 

and  capable  of  very  rapid  vibration. 
Flange — A  projecting  surface,   or  ridge,   usually  applied  to  parts 

designed    to   be    bolted   together    or    attached    to    some    other 

object. 
Flange  Coupling — A  joint  formed  by  fastening  two  pipes  or  shafts 

together  by  two  flanges  bolted  together. 
Flange  Union — A  flange  coupling  when  applied  to  pipe. 
Flash  Point — The  temperature  at  which  a  substance  ignites. 
Flexible   Coupling — A   coupling  composed   of   oscillating   parts   so 

designed  as  to  allow  the  shaft  to  revolve  even  when  the  two  parts 

are  at  an  angle. 

Flexible  Elbow — An  elbow  constructed  as  in  the  above. 
Flexible  Joint — Same  as  above,  but  more  often  applied  to  small 

rods,  etc. 
Flexible  Union — A  union  for  connecting  pipe  constructed  with  parts 

which  permit  it  to  be  set  at  varying  angles. 


252  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Float  Fee& — An  arrangement  by  which  the  flow  of  a  liquid  is  regu- 
lated by  a  valve  operated  by  a  float. 

Flooding — An  excess  of  gasolene  or  other  liquid  fuel  in  an  engine. 

Fly-wheel — The  large  wheel  at  the  end  of  the  shaft  used  to  carry 
the  momentum  of  the  shaft  beyond  dead  centre  and  to  minimize 
vibration. 

Four-cycle — The  operation  of  a  motor  in  which  an  explosive  impulse 
occurs  only  on  every  other  revolution  of  the  fly-wheel  or  on  every 
fourth  stroke. 

Friction  Clutch — A  clutch  in  which  the  power  or  motion  is  held  and 
transmitted  by  frictional  resistance. 

Gap — The  space  through  which  a  spark  will  pass  between  two 
electrodes  or  terminals. 

Gasket — A  ring  of  material,  or  packing,  placed  between  two  surfaces 
to  render  the  joint  tight. 

Gate  Valve — A  valve  which  operates  by  a  gate  or  partition  that  rises 
and  falls  in  a  groove  or  guide,  thus  giving  a  full  opening;  a  full- 
way  valve. 

Gauge — An  instrument  for  measuring  anything. 

Gear — A  cog-wheel.  A  combination  of  cog-wheels.  A  device  for 
transmitting  power,  speed,  or  direction  through  a  combination  of 
cog-wheels  or  "gears." 

Gear  Pump — A  form  of  rotary  pump  in  which  the  water  is  sucked 
in  and  forced  out  by  the  revolution  of  two  interlocking  gears. 

Generator — An  appliance  for  generating  gas  from  liquid  fuel  and  air. 
An  instrument  for  generating  electricity. 

Gland — A  ring,  or  thimble,  of  metal  used  to  hold  packing  in  position. 

Globe  Valve — A  valve  which  operates  by  a  circular  or  globular  valve, 
seating  by  turning  down  a  threaded  stem  or  spindle. 

Governor — A  device  for  regulating  power,  speed,  or  flow.  In  con- 
nection with  gasolene  motors,  a  device  for  regulating  the  speed 
of  the  motor  within  certain  limits. 

Gravity  Feed — The  feeding  or  flowing  of  oil  by  gravity  alone. 

Gravity  Oiler — An  oiler  operated  by  gravity.    Not  a  force-feed  oiler. 

Grounding — Connecting  one  wire  from  an  electrical  generator  to 
the  ground  or  to  the  frame  of  the  motor  and  using  the  same  in 
place  of  a  complete  wire  to  the  other  electric  terminal. 

Hammer  Break — A  form  of  breaker,  or  interrupter,  which  acts  like  a 
hammer  by  striking  upon  another  piece  of  metal. 


THEIR   OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  253 

Hammer  Vibrator — A  vibrator  constructed  heavily  to  give  stronger 

and  slower  vibrations  than  other  forms. 
Hanger  Bolt — A  lag-screw  with  a  threaded  end  in  place  of  a  square 

head  and  onto  which  a  nut  may  be  screwed  after  the  screw  itself 

is  in  place,  thus  avoiding  removing  the  screw  from  the  wood  in 

order  to  remove  the  object  held  in  place  by  the  screw  head. 
Helical  Gear — A  gear  wheel  with  the  teeth  cut  at  a  certain  slant  or 

curve,  which  forms  the  part  of  a  helix  or  coil. 

Helical  Spring — A  spring  made  in  the  form  of  a  helix;  a  coil  spring. 
High  Tension — A  form  of  electrical  discharge  of  high  amperage. 

The    induced    current    in   an     induction    coil.     The    secondary 

current. 
Hit-and-miss  Governor — A  governor  which  regulates  the  speed  of  an 

engine  by  allowing  the  valves  to  lift  or  remain  closed  through  the 

action  of  an  arm  or  blade  which  operates  at  normal  speed  but 

which  misses  when  the  desired  speed  is  exceeded. 
Horse-power — The  power  required  to  lift  33,000  pounds  one  foot  in 

one  minute. 
Hot  Tube — A  form  of  igniter  in  which  the  charge  of  gas  is  exploded 

by  the  use  of  a  tube  kept  at  red  heat. 
Hunting — The  irregular  action  of  a  governor  causing  an  engine  to 

slow  up  or  increase  its  speed  at  intervals. 
Hydrometer — An    instrument    for   testing   the    specific    gravity    of 

liquids. 

Igniter — Any  device  for  igniting  the  explosive  charge  of  gas. 

Igniting  Device — Same  as  Igniter. 

Ignition — The  process  of  igniting  the  charge  of  gas. 

Ignition  Plug — A  plug  inserted  in  the  cylinder  and  which  carries  the 

electric  spark  used  in  igniting  the  charge;   a  spark  plug. 
Indicator — A  machine  for  ascertaining  the  action  of  an  engine  by 

means  of  a  tracing  on  a  card. 
Indicator  Card — The  card  on  which  an  indicator  forms  a  tracing  to 

show  the  action  of  a  gasolene  motor. 
Inductance — The  power  of  inducing,  or  generating,  electricity  in  a 

coil  of  wire  by  passing  an  electrical  current  through  another  coil 

close  to  but  not  in  contact  with  the  other. 
Induction  Coil — A  coil  for  generating  induced  electricity. 
Inertia — The  tendency  of  an  object  to  remain  stationary  when  at 

rest  and  which  must  be  overcome  before  it  starts  to  move. 
Inertia  Governor — A  governor  that  acts  through  inertia. 


254  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Inlet  Valve — The  valve  which  admits  the  charge  of  gas  to  an  engine's 

cylinder. 
Insulation — The  protection,  or  covering,  of  electrical  conductors  to 

prevent  the  escape  of  electricity. 
Insulator — Anything  which  prevents  the  electricity  from  escaping 

from  a  conductor. 
Intake — The  opening  through  which  the  fresh  gas  is  taken  into  the 

cylinder. 
Intake  Stroke — The  stroke  of  an  engine's  piston  which  draws  a  charge 

of  gas  into  the  cylinder.     The  suction  stroke. 

Jacket — The  portion  of  a  motor  covering  the  cylinder  and  separated 
from  it  by  a  passage  for  the  circulation  of  water  or  other  cooling 
liquid. 

Jig — A  device  by  which  any  machined  article  may  be  accurately 
duplicated. 

Journal — A  bearing  on  a  shaft. 

Journal  Box — The  casing  holding  a  journal. 

Jump  Gap — The  space  through  which  an  electric  spark  will  jump. 

Jump  Spark — A  spark  of  high-tension  electricity  which  is  caused  by 
separating  the  electrodes  or  terminals  of  a  circuit,  thus  causing 
the  electricity  to  leap  or  jump  across,  producing  a  hot  spark. 

Key — A  square  piece  of  metal  inserted  between  a  wheel,  or  similar 

object,  and  a  shaft  and  fitting  into  recesses  in  each  to  prevent 

turning  or  looseness  of  the  two  parts. 
Keyway — The  slot  or  recess  into  which  a  key  fits. 
Kicking — Backfiring  or  premature  explosions  causing  the  motor 

to  reverse  its  motion  when  starting  or  to  "kick"  backwards. 
Kiss  Spark — A  form  of  make-and-break  ignition  in  which  the  contact 

points  approach  gradually,  press  firmly  together,  and  separate 

instantly.     Also  called  Butt  Spark. 

Lag-screws — Heavy  wood  screws  provided  with  a  square  bolt  head. 
Lead — The  advance  or  timing  of  a  spark  to  cause  ignition  before  the 

limit  of  the  compression  stroke,  causing  the  explosion  to  exert  its 

greatest  force  just  as  the  piston  passes  dead  centre. 
Lever — A  rod  or  arm  for  increasing,  transmitting,  or  controlling 

power  or  motion. 
Liners — Thin  pieces  of  metal  for  reducing  or  enlarging  the  space 

between  two  pieces  of  metal. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  255 

Lock  Nut — A  nut  screwed  onto  a  bolt  above  the  regular  nut  to 
prevent  the  latter  from  working  loose. 

Lock  Washer — A  washer,  or  ring,  with  one  side  cut  through  and  the 
ends  slightly  turned  up  or  sprung  apart.  Used  to  place  under  a 
nut  on  a  bolt.  The  turned-up  edges  prevent  the  nut  from  loosen- 
ing or  working  off  by  the  friction  of  the  ends  bearing  on  the  under 
surface  of  the  nut. 

Lost  Motion — Any  looseness  or  motion  which  accomplishes  no  useful 
purpose  and  detracts  from  power  or  speed. 

Low  Tension — The  primary  electrical  current  either  direct  from  a 
generator  or  battery  or  after  being  passed  through  a  primary- 
wound  coil. 

Lubricant — Any  substance  that  lubricates  or  reduces  friction  be- 
tween moving  parts. 

Lubricator — Any  device  for  distributing  a  lubricant. 

Lug — A  metal  projection  for  attaching  to  another  object  or  for 
bearing  against  another  piece. 

Magneto — A  machine  for  generating  electricity  by  means  of  an 
armature  revolving,  or  oscillating,  between  two  permanent  mag- 
nets. 

Make  and  Break — A  system  of  ignition  in  which  the  spark  is  produced 
by  alternately  making  and  breaking  an  electrical  current. 

Manifold — The  common  outlet  of  several  pipes  or  tubes. 

Manometer — A  gauge  or  instrument  for  determining  the  pressure  of 
gases. 

Mechanical  Equivalent. — The  power  contained  in  a  gaseous  body  and 
which  must  be  accounted  for,  either  as  heat  abstracted  from  it  or 
as  some  form  of  mechanical  energy.  A  deduction  from  the  law 
that  nothing  in  nature  can  be  lost  or  wasted. 

Mechanical  Oiler — An  oiler  or  lubricator  operated  by  mechanical 
means. 

Mechanical  Valve — A  valve  operated  by  mechanical  means. 

Misfire — The  failure  of  a  compressed  charge  to  ignite  and  ex- 
plode. 

Momentum — The  tendency  of  an  object 'to  continue  in  motion  after 
the  power  required  to  move  it  has  been  stopped. 

Motor — Any  machine  for  producing  power  or  for  transforming 
natural  forces  to  mechanical  motion. 

Muffler — A  device  for  quieting  or  silencing  the  noise  of  the  ex- 
haust. 


256  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Needle  Valve — A  valve  formed  by  a  pointed  rod  bearing  against  the 

circumference  of  a  small  hole. 
Nipple — A  short  piece  of  pipe  threaded  at  both  ends. 

Offset  Cylinder — A  cylinder  so  placed  that  its  centre  is  at  one  side 
of  the  centre  of  the  crank  shaft. 

Offset  Crank — A  crank  placed  so  that  its  centre  is  out  of  line  with  the 
centre  of  the  cylinder. 

Ohm — A  unit  of  electrical  measurement  denoting  resistance  depend- 
ent upon  diameter,  length,  and  material  of  the  electric  conductor. 
Analogous  to  "friction." 

Oil  Feed — A  device  for  distributing  oil. 

Oil  Pump — Any  device  for  pumping  oil. 

Otto  Cycle — Four-cycle.  So  called  because  the  Otto  engine  was  the 
first  to  successfully  adopt  this  system  of  operation. 

Packing — Any  material  used  to  prevent  leakage  around  a  moving 

part  or  between  the  two  surfaces  of  a  joint. 
Packing  Gland — A  piece  of  metal  which  presses  the  packing  into 

place  and  is  held  by  a  threaded  screw  or  other  device. 
Packing  Nut — A  nut  used  to  hold  packing  in  place. 
Pein — The  end  of  a  hammer  used  for  striking. 
Peining — Hammering  or  stretching  a  piece  of  metal  by  use  of  the 

"pein." 
Pendulum  Governor — A  governing  device  in   which   the   speed   is 

regulated  by  the  swing  of  a  pendulum  instead  of  by  centrifugal 

force. 

Phases — See  Cyclic    Phases. 
Pick  Blade — The  small  blade  or  pick  of  metal  which  lifts  the  valve 

in  a  pick-blade  governor. 
Pick-blade  Governor — A  governor  that  regulates  the  speed  of  a  motor 

by  means  of  a  blade  or  pick  which  lifts  or  misses  the  valve  stem 

under  excessive  speeds. 

Pillow  Block — A  block  or  stand  supporting  a  bearing  or  journal. 
Pinion — A  small  cog-wheel.     Properly  a  wheel  with  pins  or  posts 

in  place  of  cogs. 

Piston — A  sliding  object  within  a  cylinder;  a  plunger. 
Piston  Pin — The  pin  which  holds  the  connecting  rod  to  a  piston. 
Piston  Ring — Metal  rings  fitted  loosely  around  grooves  in  a  piston 

which  by  spring  of  the  metal  form  a  gas-tight  joint  with  the 

cylinder  walls. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND  CARE  257 

Pitman — The  same  as  Connecting  Rod. 

Pitting — Wearing  away  or  corroding  of  metal  in  the  form  of  small 

holes  or  indentations. 
Planimeter — An  instrument  for  determining  the  area  of  indicator 

diagrams. 

Plug — In  motor  parlance,  the  Spark  Plug. 
Plunger — A  piston.    Any  object  working  or  sliding  within  a  cavity 

made  to  fit  its  surface. 

Plunger  Pump — A  pump  operated  by  means  of  a  plunger  or  piston. 
Port — An  opening  through  which  gas  is  admitted  to  the  cylinder  or 

base  of  a  motor. 
Pre-ignition — The  igniting  or  exploding  of  a  charge  of  gas  before  the 

proper  time. 
Primary  Coil — A  coil  for  producing  low-tension  electricity  but  not 

induced  current. 
Primary  Winding — The  first  winding  on  a  spark  coil  conveying  the 

primary  or  low-tension  current. 
Primary  Wire — The  wire  used  to  convey  the  primary  or  low-tension 

electrical  current. 
Priming — Pouring  or  injecting  liquid  fuel  into  a  cylinder  to  start 

the  motor.     Placing  water  in  a  pump  to  start  its  operation. 
Priming   Cup — A  cup  for    priming,    usually    a    small    receptacle 

attached   to  the  cylinder  and  connected  with  the  interior  by  a 

valve  or  cock. 

Prony  Brake — A  device  for  testing  the  power  of  gasolene  motors. 
Protractor — An  instrument  used  for  determining  angles  and  degrees 

of  a  circle. 
Puddle  Carburetor — A  form  of  carburetor  in  which  the  liquid  fuel 

is  in  a  pool  or  puddle  instead  of  in  a  float  chamber,  and  from  the 

surface  of  which  the  gas  is  drawn. 
Pyrometer — An  instrument  for  measuring  the  temperature  of  exhaust 

gases. 

Quadrant — Any  piece  of  metal  in  the  shape  of  a  quarter  circle; 
usually  applied  to  the  curved,  notched  piece  which  holds  levers  in 
position. 

Rack — A  notched,  or  cogged,  bar  operating  on  a  cog-wheel  for 
transmitting  rotary  motion  to  reciprocating  motion  or  vice  versa. 

Rack  and  Pinion — The  combination  of  a  rack  and  a  small  cog-wheel 
or  pinion. 


258  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

Radiator — A  device  for  giving  off,  or  radiating,  heat  and  through 

which  the  hot  water  from  the  cylinder  jacket  is  passed  in  order  to 

cool  it. 
Ratchet  Valve — A  valve  operated  by  a  ratchet  gear  instead  of  by 

cams. 
Ratchet  Wheel — A  disk  or  wheel  with  notches  or  projections  so  formed 

that  it  will  turn  in  one  direction  but  not  in  the  other  by  dogs  or 

lugs  dropping  into  the  notches. 

Ratio — The  proportion  or  relation  of  one  thing  to  another. 
Reducer — An  appliance  for  reducing  the  size  of  an  opening  or  of  a 

rod  or  shaft. 
Reducing  Coupling — A  coupling  smaller  at  one  end  than  at  the  other 

for  reducing  the  size  of  any  two  pipes  or  rods  which  are  connected 

by  the  coupling. 

Reducing  Elbow — An  elbow  with  one  opening  smaller  than  the  other. 
Relief  Cock — A  cock  or  valve  placed  in  the  cylinder  to  relieve  the 

pressure  of  compression. 
Ribbon  Vibrator — A  vibrator  made  with  a  slender  or  thin  piece  of 

metal  to  which  the  contact  point  is  attached. 
Ring  Oiler — A  device  in  the  focm  of  a  ring  which  is  attached  to  the 

crank  shaft  and  serves  to  distribute  the  oil  in  the  crank  case  to 

the  bearings  and  connecting  rod. 

Ring  Valve — A  valve  in  the  form  of  a  ring  or  cylindrical  section. 
Rotary  Valve — A  cylindrical  or  conical  valve  which  rotates  or  re- 
volves on  its  seat  instead  of  lifting  and  closing. 
Ruhmkorff  Coil — An  induction  or  vibrator  coil. 

Scavenging — The  cleansing  of  the  cylinder  of  burnt  gases. 
Secondary  Coil — An  induction  coil. 

Secondary  Current — The  induced  current  of  an  induction  coil. 
Secondary  Wire — Heavily  insulated  wire  for  carrying  the  secondary 

current. 

Self-oiling — Oiling  without  the  aid  of  mechanical  devices. 
Self-starting — Equipped  with  a  device  for  starting  without  turning 

or  "cranking"  the  fly-wheel. 
Set-screw — A  screw  of  hardened  steel  or  other  metal  used  to  hold  a 

shaft  or  other  object  in  place. 

Shaft — Any  revolving  rod  for  transmitting  power  or  motion. 
Shaft  Bearing — The  bearing  through  which  a  shaft  passes. 
Shaft   Coupling — A   coupling  for  fastening  two  ends  of   shafting 

together. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  259 

Shaft  Hanger — A  bearing  for  shafting  attached  to  a  frame  or  post 

for  fastening  to  a  wall,  floor,  or  ceiling. 
Shims — Thin  pieces  of  metal  placed  between  joints  to  keep  the  two 

parts  separated. 
Short  Circuit — The  passage  of  electricity  from  one  point  to  another 

without  passing  through  the  conductors  provided.     The  escape 

of  electricity  through  faulty  insulation. 
Sight  Feed — A  device  by  which  the  flow  of  oil  or  other  lubricant 

may  be  seen  in  exactly  the  amount  and  condition  in  which  it  is 

fed  to  the  parts  to  be  lubricated. 

Silencer — A  device  for  silencing  the  noise  of  the  exhaust. 
Sonoscope — An  instrument  for  determining  the  location  of  vibration 

or  "pound"  in  a  motor. 
Spark  Break — The  interruption  or  breaking  of  an  electrical  circuit 

to  produce  a  spark. 
Spark  Coil — A  coil  of  either  the  primary  or  induction  type  which 

intensifies  the  electrical  current  and  produces  a  hotter  and  larger 

spark. 
Spark  Plug — A  plug  fitted  into  the  cylinder  and  insulated  therefrom 

and  provided  with  electrodes  or  terminals  which  produce  the 

spark. 
Sparking  Points — The  two  terminal  points  or  electrodes  from  which 

the  spark  is  produced. 
Spindle — A  round  rod  or  bar.     The  tapered  or  reduced  end  of  a 

shaft. 
Sprocket — A  wheel  provided  with  teeth  which  fit  into  the  links  of  a 

chain  for  transmitting  power  or  motion. 
Sprocket  Chain — The  chain  used  on  a  sprocket  wheel. 
Spur  Gear — A  form  of  cog-wheel  or  gear-wheel  in  which  the  teeth 

are  sharp  or  pointed. 
Street  Elbow — A  pipe  elbow  in  which  one  end  is  male-  and  the  other 

female-threaded. 
Stud — A  piece  of  projecting  metal  to  which  a  nut  may  be  attached; 

a  lug. 
Stud  Bolt — A  bolt  threaded  at  each  end  so  that  it  may  be  screwed 

into  a  threaded  hole  and  a  nut  screwed   onto  the    projecting 

portion. 
Stuffing  Box — A  box  or  casing  through  which  a  shaft  passes  and  which 

may  be  packed  to  prevent  leakage  around  the  shaft. 
Suction  Stroke — The  stroke  of  the  piston  which  draws  the  charge  of 

gas  into  the  cylinder  or  crank  case. 


260  GASOLENE  ENGINES 

Switch — A  device  by  which  the  electrical  current  may  be  turned  on 
or  off. 

Tachometer — An  instrument  for  measuring  the  number  of  revolutions 
of  a  wheel  or  other  object. 

Tap — A  tool  for  cutting  female  threads  in  nuts,  holes,  etc. 

Taper  Pin — A  round,  tapered  pin  used  to  hold  two  parts  of  machin- 
ery together;  especially  for  fastening  a  shaft  to  a  wheel  or  gear. 

Templet — A  pattern  or  guide  for  duplicating  parts. 

Terminal — The  end  of  a  wire  or  electrical  connection. 

Thermal — Relating  to  heat. 

Thermal  Efficiency — The  proportion  of  heat  utilized  by  the  engine  as 
indicated  by  the  power  developed  as  compared  with  the  total  heat 
contained  in  the  fuel  used. 

Thermal  Units — The  quantity  of  heat  required  to  raise  one  pound  of 
pure  water  from  32  degrees  to  33  degrees  Fahr. 

Thread — A  spiral  groove  cut  in  a  screw,  or  in  a  hole,  into  which  a 
screw  is  fitted. 

Throttle — Any  device  for  regulating  the  speed  of  a  motor  by  increas- 
ing or  decreasing  the  amount  of  gas  entering  the  combustion 
chamber. 

Thrust — The  forward  tendency  or  push  of  a  shaft  when  operating 
under  a  load. 

Thrust  Bearing — The  bearing  designed  to  overcome  the  friction  of 
the  thrust. 

Timer — A  device  for  interrupting  and  connecting  the  electrical 
circuit  at  certain  intervals  in  order  to  produce  a  spark  at  the 
correct  time. 

Timing — So  regulating  the  tinier,  or  the  valves  of  a  motor,  as  to 
operate  at  the  proper  time  to  develop  the  best  results. 

Torque — A  twisting  or  turning  force. 

Two-cycle — A  form  of  motor  in  which  an  explosion  or  impulse  occurs 
on  every  upward  stroke  of  the  piston  or  on  every  complete  revolu- 
tion of  the  crank  shaft. 

Union — A  device  for  connecting  two  pieces  of  pipe  so  that  they  may 
be  connected  or  disconnected  without  disturbing  the  rest  of  the 
pipe. 

Valve — A  device  for  opening  or  closing  a  passage. 
Valve  Box — The  casing  in  which  a  valve  moves. 


THEIR  OPERATION,   USE,   AND   CARE  261 

Valve  Cam — A  cam  which  operates  a  valve. 

Valve  Chamber — The  chamber  within  which  the  valve  is  placed. 

Valve  Foot — The  lower  portion  of  a  valve  upon  which  push-rods  or 

cams  operate. 

Valve  Gear — Gears  for  operating  the  valves. 
Valve  Port — The  opening  through,  or  beneath,  a  valve  which  is 

opened  or  closed  by  the  action  of  the  valve. 
Valve  Rod — A  rod  for  operating  a  valve. 
Valve  Seat — The  portion  of  the  valve  box  upon  which  the  valve  rests 

when  closed.     In  a  rotary  or  slide  valve  the  portion  around   the 

valve  against  which  it  bears. 
Valve  Stem — The  spindle  or  shaft  that  connects  the  valve  with  its 

foot  or  handle. 
Vaporizer — A  device  for  vaporizing  or  transforming  liquid  fuel  to  a 

gaseous  state  by  mixing  it  with  air. 
Vibrator — The  part  of  an  induction  coil  which  automatically  opens 

and  closes  the  circuit  of  electricity  through  the  coil. 
Volt — A   unit   of   measurement   of   electricity   denoting   the   force 

of  current.     Analogous  to  pressure. 
Voltage — The  amount  of  volts  produced  by  a  battery  or  generator 

and  which  will  flow  from  it  when  a  circuit  is  completed. 
Voltmeter — An  instrument  for  measuring  voltage. 
V-motor — A  form  of  gas  engine  in  which  the  cylinders  are  placed  at 

angles  with  one  another  or  in  "V-shape." 
V-thread — A  screw  thread  in  which  the  grooves  are  angular  with 

sharp  or  "V-shaped"  angles. 

Waste  Nut — A  flange  or  plate  for  fastening  pipes  to  a  floor  or  wall. 
Water-jacket — The  casing  outside  of  a  cylinder  and  which  contains 

the  circulating  water. 

Web — The  thin  portion  of  a  wheel  connecting  the  hub  with  the  rim. 
Whitworth  Thread — A  particular  form  of  screw-thread  differing  from 

the  ordinary  threads  in  the  shape  of  the  grooves.     The  standard 

British  thread. 
Wipe  Break — A  form  of  make-and-break  spark  in  which  the  spark 

is  produced  by  one  electrode  rubbing  or  passing  over  the  other. 
Wipe  Spark — A  spark  produced  by  a  wipe  break. 
Wire  Drawing — The  pull  or  resistance  caused  by  overcoming  friction 

or  pressure  against  moving  gas,  or  in  overcoming  the  resistance 

to  a  spring. 
Woodruff  Key — A  form  of  key  which  is  straight  on  one  side  but 


262  GASOLENE   ENGINES 

semicircular  on  the  other.     Used  as  a  key  to  hold  wheels  or  gears 

on  a  shaft  where  the  end  of  the  key  cannot  project. 
Worm  Cam — A  cam  provided  with  a  "worm"  or  spiral  groove  or 

projection. 
Worm  Gear — A  gear  which  is  grooved  in  a  spiral  or  "screw"  manner 

instead  of  being  provided  with  cogs. 
Worm  and  Segment — A  form  of  gearing  composed  of  a  worm  gear 

and  a  sector  of  a  cog-wheel  or  pinion. 
Wrist  Pin — The  pin  which  holds  the  connecting  rod  to  the  crosshead. 


APPENDIX 


HEAT  VALUE  OF  FUELS. 

(The  following  table  is  given  on  good  authority  but  will  be  found 
to  vary  considerably  from  many  other  tables.) 


Fuel 

Br.  Th.  Units 
per  Ib. 

Br.  Th.  Units 
per  cu.  ft. 

Hydrogen  at  32°  F  

62,030 

348 

Carbon        

I4.SOO 

Carbon  monoxide  (C  O  ) 

4.,7O6 

e;  in 

Pennsylvania  heavy  crude  oil  
Caucasian  crude  oil  <;heavy)                    

20,736 
20,138 

Caucasian  crude  oil  (light)  
Petroleum  refuse  
Anthracite  gas                                          

22,O27 
19,832 
-1,484 

28-candle-power  illuminating-gas 

QSO 

iQ-candle-power  illuminating-gas  
1  5-candle-power  illuminating-gas 



800 
62O 

New  York  City  water  gas  (60°  F.  at  30  Ibs. 
pressure 

710.5  Ave. 

London  coal-gas 

668 

Benzine  (C6H6)  

18,448 

Gasolene  and  its  vapor 

2I,9OO 

690 

Ethylene  (C2H4)  

21,430 

1,677 

Marsh-gas    (CH4)  

23,594 

1,051 

Natural  Gas,  Leechburg   Pa 

1,051 

Natural  Gas   Pittsburg   Pa 

892 

Acetylene  (C2H2)  
Semi-water  gas  

21,492 

868 

185 

Producer-gas  .  . 

150 

263 


264 


GASOLENE    ENGINES 


WROUGHT  IRON  AND  STEEL  PIPE. 
Table  of  Standard  Sizes  and  Dimensions 


Nom. 
inside 
diam. 
inches 

Threads 
per 
inch 

Actual 
Inside 
Diam. 
inches 

Auctal 
Outside 
Diam. 
inches 

Thickness 
Inches 

Nom. 
weight 
per  foot 
pounds 

Internal 
area 
Sq.  inches 

M 

18 

•36 

•54 

.08 

,42 

.  10 

3A 

18 

•49 

.67 

.09 

•56 

•19 

1A 

14 

.62 

.84 

.10 

.84 

•30 

M 

14 

.82 

1.05 

.11 

I  .  12 

•53 

i 

ii  y2 

i  .04 

1-31 

•13 

1.67 

.86 

i  K 

ii  1A 

1.38 

1.66 

14 

2.24 

i-49 

i  y2 

ii  1A 

1.61 

19 

•14 

2.68 

2.03 

2 

ii  y2 

2.06 

2-37 

•15 

3  61 

3-35 

2K 

8 

2.46 

2.87 

.20 

3-74 

4.78 

3 

8 

3-o6 

3-5 

.21 

7-54 

7-38 

4 

8 

4.02 

4-5 

•23 

10.66 

12.73 

5 

8 

5-04 

5.56 

-25 

I4-50 

19.99 

5 

8 

6.06 

6.625 

.28 

18.76 

28.88 

DIMENSIONS  OF  DRILLS  FOR  STANDARD  V-THREAD  HOLES. 


Diam  of 
Screw 

Threads 
Per  Inch 

Diam.  of 
Bottom 
of  Thread 

Nearest 
Drill  for 
Full  Thread 

Correct 

Size  Tap 
Drill 

X 

20 

.163 

H 

A 

A 

18 

.216 

•52 

\i 

*A 

16 

.267 

H 

A 

ft 

14 

•314 

A 

if 

Vz 

12 

•356 

If 

M 

H 

II 

.468 

M 

If 

% 

IO 

•577 

If 

K 

9 

.683 

11 

§f 

i 

8 

.784 

If 

if 

i  y* 

7 

:878 

% 

I      3"5 

i  34 

7 

1.003 

i 

i  A 

THEIR    OPERATION,    USE,    AND   CARE 


265 


CAPACITY  OF  CYLINDRICAL  TANKS. 


Dimensions 
Inches 

Capacity  in  Gals. 

Dimensions 
Inches 

Capacity  in  Gals. 

9X20 

5  gallons 

18X30 

32  gallons 

10X20 

8       " 

18X40 

40       " 

12X20 

10         " 

18X42 

45 

12X24 

12          " 

18X48 

50       " 

12X30 

15       " 

20X40 

50       " 

14X30 

20      " 

20X48 

65       " 

14X36 

24       " 

20X60 

80       " 

16X30 

26       " 

22X50 

80       " 

16X36 

32       " 

22X60 

IOO         " 

TABLE  OF  CAP-SCREW  SIZES. 


Diam. 

Threads 
Per  in. 

Hexagon  Head 

Square  Head 

Philister 
Head 
Diam. 

Round 
Head 
Diam. 

Short 
Diam. 

Long 
Diam. 

Short 
Diam. 

Long 
Diam. 

H 

20 

A 

14 

A 

H 

N 

ft 

& 

18 

H 

H 

^ 

If 

A 

A 

H 

16 

& 

M 

A 

fi 

A 

N 

& 

14 

H 

M 

N 

if 

H 

3^ 

H 

12 

N 

H 

M 

ITB 

^€ 

if 

ft 

12 

if 

il 

il 

iA 

if 

if 

5'8 

II 

% 

i 

•    % 

iM 

J^ 

I 

M 

10 

i 

i^ 

i 

i^ 

i 

J/4 

K 

9 

1^8 

iff 

1^8 

iff 

\y% 

i 

8 

I# 

i& 

1^ 

iM 

266 


GASOLENE    ENGINES 


U.  S.  STANDARD  SCREW  THREADS 
(Angle  of  threads  60°.     Flat  at  top  and  bottom  for  1/8  of  pitch.) 


Diam.  Screw 

Threads 
Per  In. 

Diam  at  Root 
of  Thread 

M 

20 

.185 

Nut  and  bolt  head  sizes  are 

ft 

18 

.240 

determined    by    the    following 

y% 

16 

.294 

rules,    which    apply    to    both 

A 

14 

•344 

square  and  hex.  nuts. 

i^ 

13 

.400 

Short  diam.  of  rough  nut  = 

ft 

12 

•454 

i  y*.  X  diam.  of  bolt  +  y%  in. 

^8 

II 

•507 

Short  diam.  of  finished  nut  = 

% 

10 

.620 

i  /^  X  diam.   of  bolt  -4-  y%  in. 

% 

9 

•731 

Thickness  of  rough  nut  =  diam. 

8 

•837 

of  bolt.     Thickness  of  finished 

y% 

7 

.940 

nut  =  diam.  of   bolt  —  3^8  in. 

M 

7 

1.065 

Long  diam.  of  hex.  nut  =  short 

% 

6 

1.160 

diam  X  I-I55-     Long  diam.  of 

1^ 

6 

1.284 

square    nut  =  short    diam.    X 

N 

5  3^ 

1-389 

1.414. 

/€ 

5 

1.491 

K 

5 

1.616 

2 

4  K 

1.712 

2    M 

4  y* 

i  .962 

2    H 

4 

2.176 

2    M 

4 

2.426 

3 

3  H 

2.629 

THEIR   OPERATION,    USE   AND   CARE  267 


To  FIND  SURFACE  AND  VOLUME. 

Area  of  Rectangle  =  length  X  breadth.     Area  of  Triangle  =  base  X 

1/2  height. 
Diameter  of  Circle  =  radius  X  2.     Circumference  of  circle  =  diam.  X 

3.1416. 

Area  of  Circle  =  square  of  diameter  X  .7854. 
Area  of  Sector  of  Circle  =  area  of  circle  X  degrees  in  arc  -r-  ^60. 
Area  of  Surface  of  Cylinder  =  circumference  X  length,  plus  area  of 

both  ends. 
Volume  of  Cylinder  =  Area  of  section  in  sq.  inches   X   length  in 

inches  and  divide  by  1728  to  find  cubic  ft. 
Diam.  of  Circle  with  given  Area.      Divide  area  by  .7854  and  extract 

square  root. 

Surface  of  Sphere  =  square  of  diam.  X  3.1416. 
Volume  of  Sphere  =  cube  of  diam.  X  .5236. 
Side  of  Inscribed  Cube  =  radius  of  sphere  X  1.1547- 
Volume  of  Cone  or  Pyramid  either  Round,  Square,  or  Triangular  = 

area  of  base  X  %  its  height. 
A  Gallon  of  Water  =  231  cubic  inches  and  weighs  8M  Ibs.  (U.  S. 

Standard). 


INDEX 


ACCELERATOR,  36 

Accessibility,  95 

Accessories,  98 

Adjustments,  206 

Adjusting,  205 

Adjusting  screw,  136 

Air-cooled  motors,  75,  82,  107 

Air-intake,  Automatic,  36 

Air  Port,  43 

Alignment,  187 

Amount  of  Oil,  182 

Ampere,  125 

Anti-freezing  Mixtures,  229,  230 

Armature,  126 

Asbestos,  204 

Automatic  air-intake,  36 

Automatic  Valves,  57 

Auxiliary  exhausts,  163 

B 

BALANCED  MOTORS,  70,  72 

Balances,  Counter-,  91 

Ball  and  Socket  Terminals,  202 

Ball  Race,  223 

Bearings,  92 

Bearings,  Tightening,  212 

Beds,  182 

Beds,  Concrete,  183,  184 

Beds  in  boats,  186 

Bell  Crank,  57 

Belts,  229 


Boats,  Beds  in,  186 
Boats,  Intake  in,  190,  191 
Bolts,  Tightening,  219 
Brake  horse-power,  30 
Breech-block  Plugs,  86 
Brushes,  127 
Buffalo  lubrication,  120 
Buffalo  oil-rings,  I2O,  123 
Bull  Dog  Connectors,  201 
Bypass,  32,  39,  43 


CADILLAC  MIXING  VALVE,  105 
"Caille  Perfection"  Ignition,  141 
Cams,  21,  57,  58,  94 
Carburetors,  99,  107 
Carburetors,  Float-feed,  99,  100 
Carburetors,  Kingston,  104 
Carburetors,  Krice,  104 
Carburetors,  Schebler,  100,  102 
Cases,  Crank,  85,  87 
Cells,  126 

Cements,  189,  216,  217 
Chambers,  Expansion,  163,  164 
Check- valves,  109 
Circulation,  Water,  113 
Coils,  Connecticut-plug,  141 
Coils,  Jump-spark,  136,  137 
Coils,  Non-vibrating,  137 
Coils,  Primary,  126 
Coils,  Secondary,  126 
Comet  Magneto,  130 


269 


270 


INDEX 


Commutators,  127 

Compound,    Anti-freezing,    229, 

230 
Compound,  Valve-grinding,  220, 

222 

Compression-plate,  41 
Concrete  beds,  183,  184 
Condenser,  136,  140 
Conical  plugs,  143 
Connecticut  coil,  141 
Connecticut  terminals,  203 
Connecting  rod,  45,  85 
Connections,  Hose,  190 
Connectors,  Bull  Dog,  201 
Contact  Points,  136 
Cooling,  75,  107 
Core,  136 

Counter-balances,  91 
Counterweights,  92 
Cranks,  49 
Cranks,  Bell,  57 
Cranks,  Offset,  69,  70 
Crank  Cases,  85,  87 
Crank  Shafts,  19,  90 
Cross-heads,  41,  43 
Cups,  Grease,  122 
Cups,  Priming,  223,  224 
Cylinders,  83 
Cylinders,  Offset,  69,  70 
Cylinders,  Temperature  of,  179 


EDISON  PLUGS,  146,  148 
Efficiency,  Mechanical,  29 
Eiseman  Magneto,  130 
Ejector  Mufflers,  170  to  172 
Element,  Human,  27 
Elmore  Motor,  45 
Enamels,  228 
En-bloc  Cylinders,  32 
Engines,  Four-cycle,  21,  25,  54 
Engines,  Four-stroke,  21,  25,  54 
Engines,  Horizontal,  70,  74 
Engines,  Open-base,  41 
Engines,  Powell,  41 
Engines,  Smalley,  39 
Engines,  Three-port,  32,  33 
Engines,  Two-cycle,  15,  32 
Engines,  Two-port,  32,  33 
Engines,  Two-stroke,  15,  32 
Engines,  Two-three  Port,  36 
Eureka  Magnetos,  130 
Exhausts,  164,  167 
Exhausts,  Auxiliary,  163 
Exhaust  Pipe,  185 
Exhausts,  Reid,  166,  167 
Exhausts,  Underwater,  165,  166 
Exhaust  valves,  21,  94 
Exhaust  Valve  Governors,  175 
Expansion  Chambers,  163,  164 
Explosive  Motors,  15 
E-Z  Plugs,  146,  147 


DELCO  SYSTEM,  153  to  155 
Delivered  Horse-power,  29 
Detroit  Lubricators,  115 
Detroit  three-way  Valve,  191 
Distributors,  47,  48 
Distributors,  Rotary,  49 
Dynamos,  126 


FEATHER  VIBRATORS,  138 
Ferro  Lubricating  system,  120 
Ferro  Motors,  70 
Ferro  Water-circulation,  113 
Field,  Magnetic,  126 
Firing  Stroke,  16,  21 
Flanges,  182 


INDEX 


271 


Flanged  Unions,  182 
Flexible  Joints,  187 
Float-feed  Carburetors,  99,  100 
Fly- Wheels,  95 
Force-feed  Oilers,  115 
Four-cycle  Engines,  21,  25,  54 
Four-stroke  Engines,  21,  25 
Fuels,  Heat  value  of,  263 
Fuel,  Kerosene,  179 


GASKETS,  86,  203,  204 

Gasolene  pipes,  191,  192 

Gasolene  tanks,  193 

Gas  Pump,  47 

Gauges,  Limit,  83 

Gears,  93,  94 

Gears,  Helical,  56 

Gears,  Spur,  56 

Gear  Pumps,  in 

Gear,  Valve,  56 

Glossary  of  Terms,  246,  262 

Governors,  174,  179 

Governors,  Exhaust  valve,  175 

Governors,  Hit  or  Miss,  177 

Governors,  Inertia,  178 

Governors,  Throttle,  176 

Crasser  Motor,  36 

Gravity  Oilers,  114,  115 

Gray  Model  "T"  motor,  32 

Grease,  180,  181 

Grease  cups,  122 

Grinding  Compounds,  220,  222 

Grinding  Tools,  221 

Grinding  Valves,  219,  222 

H 

HAMMER  VIBRATORS,  138 
Heads,  Cross-,  41,  43 
Heat  values  of  Fuels,  263 


Helical  Gears,  56 
Henricks  Magnetos,  130,  131 
High-tension  Magnetos,  129 
Hit-or-Miss  Governors,  177 
Holly  Magnetos,  130 
Hoppers,  82,  108 
Horizontal  Engines,  70,  74 
Horse-power,  30 
Horse-power,  Brake,  30 
Horse-power,  Delivered,  29 
Horse-power,  Indicated,  29 
Hose  Connections,  190 
Human  Element,  27 
Humoring,  28 
Hydrex  Silencer,  172,  173 

I 

IDLE  STROKE,  26 

Igniter,  Make  and  Break,   156, 

161 

Igniter,  Wico,  131,  136 
Ignition,  82,  124,  156 
Ignition,  Caille,  141 
Ignition,  Jump-spark,  82,  124 
Ignition,  Make  and  Break,  82, 

124 

Ignition,  Orswell,  140 
Ignition,  Perfex,  140 
Indicated  Horse-power,  29 
Inertia  Governor,  178 
Installation  of  Motors,  182,  195 
Intake  in  Boats,  190,  191 
Intake,  Automatic  air-,  36 
Intake  Valves,  22,  23,  57,  58 
Introduction,  7 


JACKET.  WATER,  88,  89 
Joints,  Flexible,  187 


272 


INDEX 


Jump-spark,  82,  124 
Jump -spark  Coil,  136   137 

K 

KEROSENE  FUEL,  179 
Kingston  Carburetor,  104 
Knight  Motor,  61,  63 
Krice  Carburetor,  103 


LEAKS,  192,  215,  216 
L-Head  Motor,  59 
Lifter,  Valve,  220 
Limit  Gauges,  83 
Lock  Nuts,  213 
Low-tension  Magnetos,  129 
Lubrication,  114,  121 
Lubrication,  Buffalo,  120 
Lubrication,  Ferro,  120 
Lubricators,  Detroit,  115 
Lubricators,  Force-feed,  114 
Lubricators,  Gravity,  114,  115 
Lubricators,  Osgood,  116 

M 

MAGNETS,  126,  129 
Magnetic  Field,  126 
Magnetos,  126 
Magnetos,  Comet,  130 
Magnetos,  Eiseman,  130 
Magnetos,  Eureka,  130 
Magnetos,  Henricks,  130,  131 
Magnetos,  High-tension,  129 
Magnetos,  Holly,  130 
Magnetos,  Low-tension,  129 
Magnetos,  Remy,  130 
Magnetos,  Splitdorf,  130 
Make  and  Break  Igniters,  156, 

161 
Make  and  Break  System,  82,124 


Mechanical  Efficiency,  29 
Mechanical  Mixers,  99 
Mechanically-operated     Valves, 

57 

Mechanism,  Valve,  55 
Mixers,  Mechanical,  99 
Mixing- Valves,  Cadillac,  105 
Mixture,  Anti-freezing,  229,  230 
Morgan  Priming  Cup,  223,  224 
Motors,  Air-cooled,  75,  82,  107 
Motors,  Balanced,  70,  72 
Motors,  Elmore,  45 
Motors,  Explosive,  15 
Motors,  Ferro,  70 
Motors,  Four-cycle,  21,  54 
Motors,  Four-port,  32 
Motors,  Four-stroke,  21,  25 
Motors,  Grasser,  36 
Motors,  Gray,  32 
Motors,  Installation  of,  182-195 
Motors,  Knight,  61,  63 
Motors,  L-head,  59 
Motors,  Open-base,  41 
Motors,    Opposed-cylinder,    70, 

71 

Motors,  Parts  of,  75 
Motors,  Reynolds,  64-68 
Motors,  Rotary-valve,  64-70 
Motors,  Russell,  69 
Motors,  Silent-valve,  69 
Motors,  Six-cycle,  15 
Motors,  Sleeve-valve,  61-63 
Motors,  T-head,  59 
Motors,  Two-cycle,  15,  32 
Motors,  Two-port,  32 
Motors,  Two-stroke,  15,  32 
Motors,  Two-three-port,  32,  33 
Mufflers,  162 

Mufflers,  Ejector,  170-172 
Mufflers,  Yankee,  170-171 


INDEX 


273 


Multiple-feed  Oilers,  114,  115 
Mushroom  valves,  55 

N 

NON-VIBRATING  COILS,  137 
Nuts,  Lock,  213 


OFFSET  CRANKS,  69,  70 
Offset  Cylinders,  69,  70 
Ohms,  125 
Oils,  1 80 

Oil,  Amount  of,  182 
Oilers,  114,  115 
Oilers,  Force-feed,  115 
Oilers,  Gravity,  114,  115 
Oilers,  Multiple-feed,  114,  115 
Oil  Rings,  120,  123 
Oil-Rings,  Buffalo,  120,  123 
Open-base  Motors,  41 
Opposed-cylinder  Motors,  70,  71 
Orswell  System,  140 
Osgood  Lubricators,  116 


PACKING  (PUMP),  205 
Packing,  Stuffing-box,  205 
Parts  of  Motors,  75 
Perfex  System,  140 
Petticoat  Plugs,  143 
Pins,  Piston,  84 , 
Pipe,  Exhaust,  185 
Pipe,  Gasolene,  191,  192 
Pistons,  I5,V2I,  83 
Piston-pins,  84 
Piston-rings,  84 

Piston-rings,     Removing,  •  224, 
225 


Plate,  Compression,  41 
Plates,  Side,  87 
Plugs,  83,  88 
Plugs,  Breech-block,  86 
Plug-coils,  141 
Plugs,  Conical,  143 
Plugs,  Edison,  146,  148 
Plugs,  E-Z,  146,  147 
Plugs,  Ignition,  88,  148 
Plugs,  Magneto,  146,  148 
Plugs,  Petticoat,  143 
Plugs,  Rajah,  145,  146 
Plugs,  Reliance,  143,  144 
Plugs,  Spark,  142,  148 
Plugs,  Standard,  143 
Plunger  Pump,  109 
Points,  Contact,  136 
Poles,  126 
Polishes,  227 
Poppett  Valves,  55 
Ports,  1 6 
Ports,  Air,  43 
Ports,  Fourth,  36 
Ports,  Third,  36 
Ports,  Transfer,  36 
Ports,  Two,  32,  33 
Powell  Engine,  41 
Power,  Horse-,  30 
Preface,  5 
Primary  Coil,  126 
Primary  Winding,  136 
Primary  Wire,  198 
Priming  Cups,  223,  224 
Pumps,  109 
Pumps,  Gas,  47 
Pumps,  Gear,  in 
Pumps,  Packing,  205 
Pumps,  Plunger,  109 
Pumps,  Rotary,  no 
Push-rods,  57,  59 


274 


INDEX 


RACE,  BALL,  223 
Radiators,  82,  108 
Rajah  Plugs,  145,  146 
Reid  Exhaust,  166,  167 
Reliance  Plugs,  143,  144 
Reliance  Terminals,  202 
Removing  Piston-rings,  224,  225 
Remy  Magnetos,  130 
Reynolds  Motors,  64-68 
Ribbon  Vibrators,  138 
Rings,  Oil,  120,  123 
Rings,  Piston,  84 
Rods,  Connecting,  45,  85 
Rods,  Push,  57,  59 
Rotary  Distributor,  49 
Rotary  Pumps,  no 
Rotary  Valves,  48,  49 
Rotary- valve  Motors,  64-70 
Russell  Motors,  69 


SCHEBLER    CARBURETOR,     100, 

102 

Screw,  Adjusting,  136 
Secondary  Coil,  126 
Secondary  Winding,  136 
Secondary  Wire,  198 
Shafts,  Crank,  19,  90 
Shims,  225 
Shunt,  126 
Side  Plates,  87 
Silent-valve  Motors,  69 
Silencers,  162 

Silencers,  Hydrex,  172,  173 
Silencers,  Thermex,  173,  174 
Six-cycle  Motors,  15 
Sleeve-valve  Motors,  61-63 
Smalley  Engines,  39 


Smoke,  182 
Soldering,  198 
Solocoil,  141 
Spark,  Jump,  82,  124 
Spark  Plugs,  142-148 
Sparking  Points,  139 
Splitdorf  Magneto,  130 
Spur  Gear,  56 
Staples,  196 
Stem,  Valve,  55 
Stroke,  Firing,  16,  21 
Stroke,  Four,  21,  25 
Stroke,  Idle,  26 
Stroke,  Two,  15,  32 
Stuffing-box  Packing,  205 


TABLES,  263 

Table  of  Troubles,  231-245 
Tanks,  Gasolene,  193 
Temperature  of  Cylinders,  179 
Terminals,  201,  202 
Terminals,  Ball  and  Socket,  202 
Terminals,  Connecticut,  203 
Terminals,  Reliance,  202 
Terms,  Glossary  of,  246-262 
T-head  Motors,  59 
Thermex  Silencers,  173,  174 
Third  Port,  36 
Three-cylinder  Motors,  51 
Three-port  Motors,  32,  33 
Three-way  Valve,  191 
Throttle  Governors,  176 
Throttle  Valves,  43 
Tightening  Bearings,  212 
Tightening  bolts,  219 
Timers,  136-147 
Timers,  Simple,  148 
Timers,  Tuttle,  150-152 
Tools,  208-212 


INDEX 


275 


Tools,  Grinding,  221 
Tools,  Valve-lifting,  220 
Transfer  Ports,  36 
Troubles,  Table  of,  231,  245 
Tuttle  Timers,  150,  152 
Two-cycle  Motors,   15,   16,  25, 

32 

Two-port  Motors,  32,  33 
Two-stroke  Motors,  15,  32 
Two-three-port  Motors,  36 

U 

UNDERWATER     EXHAUST,     165, 

1 66 

Unions,  Flanged,  182 
Unions,  Flexible,  187 


VALVES,  21,  94 
Valves,  Automatic,  57 
Valves,  Check,  109 
Valves,  Detroit,  191 
Valve  Gear,  56 
Valve  Grinding,  219,  222 
Valve  Grinding  tools,  221 
Valve-in-head  Motors,  59 
Valves,  Intake,  22,  23,  57,  58 
Valve  Lifters,  220 
Valve  Mechanism,  55 
Valves,    Mechanically-operated, 
57 


Valve,  Mixing,  105 
Valves,  Mushroom,  55 
Valves,  Poppett,  55 
Valves,  Rotary,  48,  49,  68,  70 
Valves,  Silent,  69 
Valve  Stem  v  55 
Valves,  Three-way,  191 
Valves,  Throttle,  43 
Vaporizers,  36,  99 
Vibrators,  136,  138 
Vibrators,  Feather,  138 
Vibrators,  Hammer,  138 
Vibrators,  Ribbon,  138 
Volts,  125 
Voltage,  124 

W 
WATER    CIRCULATION,    FERRO, 

113 

Water  Jacket,  88,  89 
Weights,  Balance,  92 
Wheels,  Fly-,  95 
Wico  Igniter,  131-136 
Winding,  Primary,  136 
Winding,  Secondary,  136 
Wire,  195,  196 
Wire,  Primary,  198 
Wire,  Secondary,  198 
Wiring,  191-202 


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SUBJECT     INDEX 


PAGE 

Accidents 18 

Air  Brakes 17,   19 

Arithmetics 20 

Automobiles 3 

Balloons 3 

Bevel  Gears 14 

Boilers 22 

Brazing 3 

Cams ' 15 

Car  Charts 4 

Change  Gear 14 

Charts 3,  4,  22 

Chemistry 23 

Coal  Mining 23 

Coke 4 

Compressed  Air 5 

Concrete 5 

Cyclopedia 4,  20 

Dictionaries 7 

Dies 7 

Drawing 8,  24 

Drop  Forging 7 

Dynamo 9,  10,   11 

Electricity .  .  9,  10,  11,  12 

Engines  and  Boilers 22 

Factory  Management 12 

Flying  Machines 3 

Fuel.., 


13 

Gas  Manufacturing 14 

Gas  Engines 13,  14 

Gears 14 

Heating,  Electric 9 

Hot  Water  Heating 27 

Horse-Power  Chart 4 

Hydraulics 15 

Ice  Making 15 

India  Rubber 25 

Interchangeable  Manufacturing 20 

Inventions 15 

Knots 15 

Lathe  Work 16 

Lighting  (Electric) 9 

Link  Motion 17 

Liquid  Air 16 

Locomotive  Boilers 18 

Locomotive  Engineering 17,  18,  19 

Machinist's  Books. .  .                  .  .  20,  21,  22 


PAGE 

Manual  Training 22 

Marine  Engines 22 

Marine  Steam  Turbines 29 

Mechanical  Movements 20,  21 

Metal  Turning 16 

Milling  Machines 21 

Mining 22,  23 

Oil  Engines 13 

Patents 15 

Pattern  Making 23 

Perfumery 23 

Pipes 28 

Plumbing 24 

Producer  Gas 13 

Punches 7 

Railroad  Accidents 18 

Receipt  Book 23,  25 

Refrigeration 15 

Rope  Work 15 

Rubber  Stamps 25 

Saws 26 

Sheet  Metal  Working 7 

Shop  Tools 21 

Shop  Construction 20 

Shop  Management 20 

Sketching  Paper 8 

Smoke  Prevention 13 

Soldering 3 

Splices 15 

Steam  Engineering 26,  27 

Steam  Heating 27 

Steam  Pipes 28 

Steel 28 

Superheated  Steam 17 

Switchboards 9.  11 

Tapers 16 

Telephone 12 

Threads 22 

Tools 20,  22 

Turbines 29 

Ventilation 27 

Valve  Gear 19 

Valve  Setting 17 

Walschaert  Valve  Gear 19 

Watchmaking 29 

Wiring .9,  11,  12 

Wireless  Telephones  and  Telegraphy 12 


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AUTOMOBILE 

THE  MODERN  GASOLINE  AUTOMOBILE— ITS  DESIGN,  CONSTRUCTION, 
MAINTENANCE  AND  REPAIR.  By  VICTOR  W.  PAGE,  M.  E. 

The  latest  and  most  complete  treatise  on  the  Gasoline  Automobile  ever  issued.  Written 
in  simple  language  by  a  recognized  authority,  familiar  with  every  branch  of  the  automobile 
industry.  Free  from  technical  terms.  Everything  is  explained  so  simply  that  anyone  of 
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construction  and  description  of  all  types  of  automobiles  and  their  components,  valuable 
money-saving  hints  on  the  care  and  operation  of  motor  cars  propelled  by  internal  combus- 
tion engines.  Among  some  of  the  subjects  treated  might  be  mentioned:  Torpedo  and  other 
symmetrical  body  forms  designed  to  reduce  air  resistance;  sleeve  valve,  rotary  valve  and 
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universal  application  of  magneto  ignition;  development  of  automobile  electric-lighting 
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BALLOONS   AND  FLYING  MACHINES. 

MODEL  BALLOONS  AND  FLYING  MACHINES.  WITH  A  SHORT  ACCOUNT  OF 
THE  PROGRESS  OF  AVIATION.  By  J.  H.  ALEXANDER. 

This  book  has  been  written  with  a  view  to  assist  those  who  desire  to  construct  a  model  airship 
or  flying  machine.  It  contains  five  folding  plates  of  working  drawings,  each  sheet  containing 
a  different  sized  machine.  Much  instruction  and  amusement  can  be  obtained  from  the  making 
and  flying  of  these  models. 

A  short  account  of  the  progress  of  aviation  is  included,  which  will  render  the  book  of  greater 
interest.  Several  illustrations  of  full  sized  airship  and  flying  machines  of  the  latest  types  are 
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which  will  assist  materially  those  interested  in  the  problems  of  flight.  127  pages,  45  illustra- 
tions, 5  folding  plates.  Price $1.50 

BRAZING  AND   SOLDERING 

BRAZING  AND  SOLDERING.     By  JAMES  F.  HOBART. 

The  only  book  that  shows  you  just  how  to  handle  any  job  of  brazing  or  soldering  that  comes 
ftlong;  tells  you  what  mixture  to  use,  how  to  make  a  furnace  if  you  need  one.  Full  of 
valuable  kinks.  The  fifth  edition  of  this  book  has  just  been  published,  and  to  it  much 
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been  added.  Illustrated 25  cents 

CHARTS 

MODERN  SUBMARINE  CHART— WITH  200  PARTS  NUMBERED  AND  NAMED. 

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to  make  the  engraving  more  readily  understood  all  the  features  are  shown  in  operative  form, 
with  Officers  and  Men  in  the  act  of  performing  the  duties  assigned  to  them  in  service  con- 
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ment used  on  Passenger  Engines,  Passenger  Engine  Tenders,  and  Passenger  Cars.  Chart 
II. — Shows  (in  colors)  the  Standard  Westinghouse  Equipment  for  Freight  and  Switch  En- 
gines, Freight  and  Switch  Engine  Tenders,  and  Freight  Cars.  Price  for  the  set  .  50  cents 

TRACTIVE   POWER   CHART. 

A  chart  whereby  you  can  find  the  tractive  power  or  drawbar  pull  of  any  locomotive,  without 
making  a  figure.  Shows  what  cylinders  are  equal,  how  driving  wheels  and  steam  pressure 
affect  the  power.  What  sized  engine  you  need  to  exert  a  given  drawbar  pull  or  anything 
you  desire  in  this  line.  .- 50  cents 

HORSE  POWER   CHART. 

Shows  the  horse  power  of  any  stationary  engine  without  calculation.  No  matter  what  the 
cylinder  diameter  of  stroke;  the  steam  pressure  or  cut-off;  the  revolutions,  or  whether  con- 
densing or  non-condensing,  it's  all  there.  Easy  to  use,  accurate,  and  saves  time  and  calcu- 
lations. Especially  useful  to  engineers  and  designers 50  cents 

BOILER  ROOM   CHART.     By  GEO.  L.  FOWLER. 

A  Chart — size  14  x  28  inches — showing  in  isometric  perspective  the  mechanisms  belonging 
in  a  modern  boiler  room.  Water  tube  boilers,  ordinary  grates  and  mechanical  stokers,  feed 
water  heaters  and  pumps  comprise  the  equipment.  The  various  parts  are  shown  broken  or 
removed,  so  that  the  internal  construction  is  fully  illustrated.  Each  part  is  given  a  reference 
number,  and  these,  with  the  corresponding  name,  are  given  in  a  glossary  printed  at  the  sides. 
This  chart  is  really  a  dictionary  of  the  boiler  room — the  names  of  more  than  200  parts  being 
given.  It  is  educational — worth  many  times  its  cost 25  cents 

CIVIL  ENGINEERING 

HENLEY'S  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  PRACTICAL  ENGINEERING  AND  ALLIED 
TRADES.  Edited  by  JOSEPH  G.  HORNER,  A.  M.  I.  E.  M. 

This  set  of  five  volumes  contains  about  2,500  pages  with  thousands  of  illustrations,  including 
diagrammatic  and  sectional  drawings  with  full  explanatory  details.  This  work  covers  the 
entire  practice  of  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineering.  The  best  known  experts  in  all  branches 
of  engineering  have  contributed  to  these  volumes.  The  Cyclopedia  is  admirably  well  adapted 
to  the  needs  of  the  beginner  and  the  self-taught  practical  man,  as  well  as  the  mechanical  en- 
gineer, designer,  draftsman,  shop  superintendent,  foreman,  and  machinist.  The  work  will  be 
found  a  means  of  advancement  to  any  progressive  man.  It  is  encyclopedic  in  scope,  thorough 
and  practical  in  its  treatment  of  technical  subjects,  simple  and  clear  in  its  descriptive  matter, 
and  without  unnecessary  technicalities  or  formulae.  The  articles  are  as  brief  as  may  be  and 
yet  give  a  reasonably  clear  and  explicit  statement  of  the  subject,  and  are  written  by  men  who 
have  had  ample  practical  experience  in  the  matters  of  which  they  write.  It  tells  you  all  you 
want  to  know  about  engineering  and  tells  it  so  simply,  so  clearly,  so  concisely,  that  one  cannot 
help  but  understand.  As  a  work  of  reference  it  is  without  a  peer.  $6.00  per  single  volume. 
For  complete  set  of  five  volumes,  price  $25.00 

COKE 


COKE— MODERN  COKING  PRACTICE;  INCLUDING  THE  ANALYSIS  OF 
MATERIALS  AND  PRODUCTS.  By  T.  H.  BYROM  and  J.  E.  CHRISTOPHER. 
A  handbook  for  those  engaged  in  Coke  manufacture  and  the  recovery  9f  By-products.  Fully 
illustrated  with  folding  plates.  It  has  been  the  aim  of  the  authors,  in  preparing  this  book, 
to  produce  one  which  shall  be  of  use  and  benefit  to  those  who  are  associated  with,  or  inter- 
ested in,  the  modern  developments  of  the  industry.  Contents:  I.  Introductory.  II.  Gen- 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

eral  Classification  of  Fuels.  III.  Coal  Washing.  IV.  The  Sampling  and  Valuation  of  Coal, 
Coke,  etc.  V.  The  Calorific  Power  of  Coal  and  Coke.  VI.  Coke  Ovens.  VII.  Coke  Ovens, 
continued.  VIII.  Coke  Ovens,  continued.  IX.  Charging  and  Discharging  of  Coke  Ovens, 
X.  Cooling  and  Condensing  Plant.  XI.  Gas  Exhausters.  XII.  Composition  and  Analysis 
of  Ammoniacal  Liquor.  XIII.  Working-up  of  Ammoniacal  Liquor.  XIV.  Treatment  of 
Waste  Gases  from  Sulphate  Plants.  XV.  Valuation  of  Ammonium  Sulphate.  XVI.  Direct 
Recovery  of  Ammonia  from  Coke  Oven  Gases.  XVII.  Surplus  Gas  from  Coke  Oven.  Use- 
ful Tables.  Very  fully  illustrated.  Price $3. 50  net 

COMPRESSED  AIR 

COMPRESSED  AIR  IN  ALL  ITS  APPLICATIONS.     By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

This  is  the  most  complete  book  on  the  subject  of  Air  that  has  ever  been  issued,  and  its  thirty- 
five  chapters  include  about  every  phase  of  the  subject  one  can  think  of.  It  may  be  called  an 
encyclopedia  of  compressed  air.  It  is  written  by  an  expert,  who,  in  its  665  pages,  has  dealt 
with  the  subject  in  a  comprehensive  manner,  no  phase  of  it  being  omitted.  Includes  the 
physical  properties  of  air  from  a  vacuum  to  its  highest  pressure,  its  thermodynamics,  com- 
pression, transmission  and  uses  as  a  motive  power ;  in  the  Operation  of  Stationary  and  Port- 
able Machinery,  in  Mining,  Air  Tools,  Air  Lifts,  Pumping  of  Water,  Acids,  and  Oils;  the 
Air  Blast  for  Cleaning  and  Painting,  the  Sand  Blast  and  its  Work,  and  the  Numerous  Appli- 
ances in  which  Compressed  Air  is  a  Most  Convenient  and  Economical  Transmitter  of  Power 
for  Mechanical  Work,  Railway  Propulsion,  Refrigeration,  and  the  Various  Uses  to  which 
Compressed  Air  has  been  applied.  Includes  forty-four  tables  of  the  physical  properties  of 
air,  its  compression,  expansion,  and  volumes  required  for  various  kinds  of  work,  and  a  list  of 
patents  on  compressed  air  from  1875  to  date.  Over  500  illustrations,  5th  Edition,  revised  and 
enlarged.  Cloth  bound,  $5.00.  Half  Morocco,  price $6.50 

CONCRETE 

ORNAMENTAL  CONCRETE  WITHOUT  MOLDS.     By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

The  process  for  making  ornamental  concrete  without  molds  has  long  been  held  as  a  secret,  and 
now,  for  the  first  time,  this  process  is  given  to  the  public.  The  book  reveals  the  secret  and  is 
the  only  book  published  which  explains  a  simple,  practical  method  whereby  the  concrete  worker 
is  enabled,  by  employing  wood  and  metal  templates  of  different  designs,  to  mold  or  model  in 
concrete  any  Cornice,  Archivolt,  Column,  Pedestal,  Base  Cap,  Urn  or  Pier  in  a  monolithic 
form — right  upon  the  job.  These  may  be  molded  in  units  or  blocks,  and  then  built  up  to  suit  the 
specifications  demanded.  This  work  is  fully  illustrated,  with  detailed  engravings.  Price  $2.00 

CONCRETE  FROM  SAND  MOLDS.     By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

A  Practical  Work  treating  on  a  process  which  has  heretofore  been  held  as  a  trade  secret  by 
the  few  who  possessed  it,  and  which  will  successfully  mold  every  and  any  class  of  ornamental 
concrete  work.  The  process  of  molding  concrete  with  sand  molds  is  of  the  utmost  practical 
value,  possessing  the  manifold  advantages  of  a  low  cost  of  molds,  the  ease  and  rapidity  of 
operation,  perfect  details  to  all  ornamental  designs,  density,  and  increased  strength  of  the 
concrete,  perfect  curing  of  the  work  without  attention  and  the  easy  removal  of  the  molds  re- 
gardless of  any  undercutting  the  design  may  have.  192  pages.  Fully  illustrated.  Price  $2.00 

CONCRETE  WALL   FORMS.     By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

A  new  automatic  wall  clamp  is  illustrated  with  working  drawings.  Other  types  of  wall 
forms,  clamps,  separators,  etc.,  are  also  illustrated  and  explained 50  cents 

CONCRETE   FLOORS   AND   SIDEWALKS.    By  A.  A.    HOUGHTON. 

The  molds  for  molding  squares,  hexagonal  and  many  other  styles  of  mosaic  floor  and  side- 
walk blocks  are  fully  illustrated  and  explained 50  cents 

PRACTICAL  CONCRETE  SILO  CONSTRUCTION.    By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

Complete  working  drawings  and  specifications  are  given  for  several  styles  of  concrete  silos, 
with  illustrations  of  molds  for  monolithic  and  block  silos.  The  tables,  data  and  information 
presented  in  this  book  are  of  the  utmost  value  in  planning  and  constructing  all  forms  of  concrete 
silos ....  50  cents 

MOLDING    CONCRETE    CHIMNEYS,  SLATE  AND    ROOF    TILES.      By 

A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

The  manufacture  of  all  types  of  concrete  slate  and  roof  tile  is  fully  treated.  Valuable  data 
on  all  forms  of  reinforced  concrete  roofs  are  contained  within  its  pages.  The  construction  of 
concrete  chimneys  by  block  and  monolithic  systems  is  fully  illustrated  and  described.  A 
number  of  ornamental  designs  of  chimney  construction  with  molds  are  shown  in  this  valu- 
able treatise -  .  .  ....  50  cents 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

MOLDING   AND    CURING   ORNAMENTAL   CONCRETE.     By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

Ihe  proper  proportions  of  cement  and  aggregates  for  various  finishes,  also  the  methods  of 
thoroughly  mixing  and  placing  in  the  molds,  are  fully  treated.  An  exhaustive  treatise  on  this 
subject  that  every  concrete  worker  will  find  of  daily  use  and  value 50  cents 

CONCRETE  MONUMENTS,  MAUSOLEUMS    AND  BURIAL  VAULTS.      By  A.  A. 

HOUGHTON. 

The  molding  of  concrete  monuments  to  imitate  the  most  expensive  cut  stone  is  explained  in 
this  treatise,  with  working  drawings  ot  easily  built  molds.  Cutting  inscriptions  and  designs 
is  also  fully  treated 50  cenis 

MOLDING  CONCRETE  BATH  TUBS,  AQUARIUMS  AND  NATATORIUMS. 
By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

Simple  molds  and  instruction  are  given  for  molding  many  styles  of  concrete  bath  tubs, 
swimming  pools,  etc.  These  molds  are  easily  built  and  permit  rapid  and  successful 
work ; 50  cents 

CONCRETE  BRIDGES,  CULVERTS  AND  SEWERS.      By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

A  number  of  ornamental  concrete  bridges  with  illustrations  of  molds  are  given.  A  collapsible 
center  or  core  for  bridges,  culverts  and  sewers  is  fully  illustrated  with  detailed  instructions  for 
building  50  cents 

CONSTRUCTING  CONCRETE  PORCHES.  By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

A  number  of  designs  with  working  drawings  of  molds  are  fully  explained  so  any  one  can  easily 
construct  different  styles  of  ornamental  concrete  porches  without  the  purchase  of  expensive 
molds 50  cents 

MOLDING  CONCRETE  FLOWER  POTS,  BOXES,  JARDINIERES,  ETC.  By 
A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

The  molds  for  producing  many  original  designs  of  flower  pots,  urns,  flower  boxes,  jardinieres, 
etc.,  are  fully  illustrated  and  explained,  so  the  worker  can  easily  construct  and  operate 
same 50  cents 

MOLDING  CONCRETE  FOUNTAINS  AND  LAWN  ORNAMENTS.  By 
A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

The  molding  of  a  number  of  designs  of  lawn  seats,  curbing,  hitching  posts,  pergolas,  sun  dials 
and  other  forms  of  ornamental  concrete  for  the  ornamentation  of  lawns  and  gardens,  is 
fully  illustrated  and  described 50  cents 

CONCRETE  FOR  THE  FARM  AND  SHOP.  By  A.  A.  HOUGHTON. 

The  molding  of  drain  tile,  tanks,  cisterns,  fence  posts,  stable  floors,  hog  and  poultry  houses 
and  all  the  purposes  for  which  concrete  is  an  invaluable  aid  to  the  farmer  are  numbered 
among  the  contents  of  this  handy  volume 50  cents 

POPULAR  HANDBOOK  FOR  CEMENT  AND  CONCRETE  USERS.  By  MYRON 
H.  Lswis, 

This  is  a  concise  treatise  of  the  principles  and  methods  employed  in  the  manufacture  and  use 
of  cement  in  all  classes  of  modern  works.  The  author  has  brought  together  in  this  work  all 
the  salient  matter  of  interest  to  the  user  of  concrete  and  its  many  diversified  products.  The 
matter  is  presented  in  logical  and  systematic  order,  clearly  written,  fully  illustrated  and  free 
from  involved  mathematics.  Everything  of  value  to  the  concrete  user  is  given  including  kinds 
of  cement  employed  in  construction,  concrete  architecture,  inspection  and  testing,  water- 
proofing, coloring  and  painting,  rules,  tables,  working,  and  cost  data.  The  book  comprises 
thirty-three  chapters,  as  follows: 

Introductory.  Kinds  of  Cements  and  How  They  are  Made.  Properties,  Testing  and 
Requirements  of  Hydraulic  Cement.  Concrete  and  its  Properties.  Sand,  Broken  Stone  and 
Gravel  for  Concrete.  How  to  Proportion  the  Materials.  How  to  Mix  and  Place  Concrete. 
Forms  for  Concrete  Construction.  The  Architectural  and  Artistic  Possibilities  of  Concrete. 
Concrete  Residences.  Mortars,  Plasters  and  Stucco  and  How  to  Use  Them.  The  Artistic 
Treatment  of  Concrete  Surfaces.  Concrete  Building  Blocks.  The  Making  of  Ornamental 
Concrete.  Concrete  Pipes,  Fences,  Posts,  Etc.  Essential  Features  and  Advantages  of  Reen- 
forced  Concrete.  How  to  Design  Reenforced  Concrete  Beams,  Slabs  and  Columns.  Ex- 
planations of  the  Methods  and  Principles  in  Designing  Reenforced  Concrete  Beams  and 
Slabs.  Systems  of  Reenforcement  Employed.  Reenforced  Concrete  in  Factory  and  General 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

Building  Construction.  Concrete  in  Foundation  Work.  Concrete  Retaining  Walls,  Abut- 
ments, and  Bulkheads.  Concrete  Arches  and  Arch  Bridges.  Concrete  Beam  and  Girder 
Bridges.  Concrete  in  Sewerage  and  Drainage  Works.  Concrete  Tanks,  Dams  and  Reser- 
voirs. Concrete  Sidewalks,  Curbs  and  Pavements.  Concrete  in  Railroad  Constructions. 
The  Utility  of  Concrete  on  the  Farm.  The  Waterproofing  of  Concrete  Structure.  Grout 
or  Liquid  Concrete  and  Its  Use.  Inspection  of  Concrete  Work.  Cost  of  Concrete  Work. 
Some  of  the  special  features  of  the  book  are:  1.  The  Attention  Paid  to  the  Artistic  and 
Architectural  Side  of  Concrete  Work.  2.  The  Authoritative  Treatment  of  the  Problem 
of  Waterproofing  Concrete.  3.  An  Excellent  Summary  of  the  Rules  to  be  Followed  in 
Concrete  Construction.  4.  The  Valuable  Cost  Data  and  Useful  Tables  given.  A  valuable 
Addition  to  the  Library  of  Every  Cement  and  Concrete  User.  Price $2.50 

WATERPROOFING  CONCRETE.     By  MYRON  H.  LEWIS. 

Modern  Methods  of  Waterproofing  Concrete  and  Other  Structures.  A  condensed  statement 
of  the  Principles,  Rules,  and  Precautions  to  be  Observed  in  Waterproofing  and  Damp- 
proofing  Structures  and  Structural  Materials.  Paper  binding.  Illustrated.  Price.  ,50  cents 

DICTIONARIES 

STANDARD  ELECTRICAL  DICTIONARY.    By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANB. 

An  indispensable  work  to  all  interested  in  electrical  science.  Suitable  alike  for  the  student 
and  professional.  A  practical  hand-book  of  reference  containing  definitions  of  about  5,000 
distinct  words,  terms  and  phrases.  The  definitions  are  terse  and  concise  and  include  every 
term  used  in  electrical  science.  Recently  issued.  An  entirely  new  edition.  Should  be  in 
the  possession  of  all  who  desire  to  keep  abreast  with  the  progress  of  this  branch  of  science. 
Complete,  concise  and  convenient.  682  pages.  393  illustrations.  Price  ....  $3.00 

DIES— METAL  WORK 

DIES:  THEIR  CONSTRUCTION  AND  USE  FOR  THE  MODERN  WORKING  OF 
SHEET  METALS.  By  J.  V.  WOODWORTH. 

A  most  useful  book,  and  one  which  should  be  in  the  hands  of  all  engaged  in  the  press  working 
of  metals;  treating  on  the  Designing,  Constructing,  and  Use  of  Tools,  Fixtures  and  Devices, 
together  with  the  manner  in  which  they  should  be  used  in  the  Power  Press,  for  the  cheap  and 
rapid  production  of  the  great  variety  of  sheet  metal  articles  now  in  use.  It  is  designed  as  a 
guide  to  the  production  of  sheet  metal  parts  at  the  minimum  of  cost  with  the  maximum  of 
output.  The  hardening  and  tempering  of  Press  tools  and  the  classes  of  work  which  may  be 
produced  to  the  best  advantage  by  the  use  of  dies  in  the  power  press  are  fully  treated.  Its 
505  illustrations  show  dies,  press  fixtures  and  sheet  metal  working  devices,  the  descriptions 
of  which  are  so  clear  and  practical  that  all  metal-working  mechanics  will  be  able  to  understand 
how  to  design,  construct  and  use  them.  Many  of  the  dies  and  press  fixtures  treated  were 
either  constructed  by  the  author  or  under  his  supervision.  Others  were  built  by  skilful 
raechauics  and  are  in  use  in  large  sheet  metal  establishments  and  machine  shops.  Price  $3.00 

PUNCHES,  DIES  AND  TOOLS  FOR  MANUFACTURING  IN  PRESSES.     By  J.  V. 

WOODWORTH. 

This  work  is  a  companion  volume  to  the  author's  elementary  work  entitled  "Dies,  Their 
Construction  and  Use."  It  does  not  go  into  the  details  of  die  making  to  the  extent  of  the 
author's  previous  book,  but  gives  a  comprehensive  review  of  the  field  of  operations  carried  on 
by  presses.  A  large  part  of  the  information  given  has  been  drawn  from  the  author's  personal 
experience.  It  might  well  be  termed  an  Encyclopedia  of  Die  Making,  Punch  Making,  Die 
Sinking,  Sheet  Metal  Working,  and  Making  of  Special  Tools,  Sub-presses,  Devices  and  Mechani- 
cal Combinations  for  Punching,  Cutting,  Bending,  Forming,  Piercing,  Drawing,  Compressing 
and  Assembling  Sheet  Metal  Parts,  and  also  Articles  of  other  Materials  in  Machine  Tools. 
2d  Edition.  Price $4.00 

DROP  FORGING,  DIE  SINKING  AND  MACHINE  FORMING  OF  STEEL.      By  J.  V. 

WOODWORTH. 

This  is  a  practical  treatise  on  Modern  Shop  Practice,  Processes,  Methods,  Machines,  Tools, 
and  Details,  treating  on  the  Hot  and  Cold  Machine- Forming  of  Steel  and  Iron  into  Finished 
shapes;  Together  with  Tools,  Dies,  and  Machinery  involved  in  the  manufacture  of  Duplicate 


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and  cold  machine  forging,  swedging  and  the  press  working  of  r 
making  relates  to  the  engraving  or  raising  of  the  male  or  upi 
lower  dies  for  the  press-forming  and  machine-forging  of  duplic 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

Forgings  and  Interchangeable  Hot  and  Cold  Pressed  Parts  from  Bar  and  Sheet  Metal. 
This  book  fills  a  demand  of  long  standing  for  information  regarding  drop  forging,  die-sinking 
and  machine  forming  of  steel  and  the  shop  practice  involved,  as  it  actually  exists  in  the 
modern  drop  forging  shop.  The  processes  of  die-sinking  and  force-making,  which  are  thor- 
oughly described  and  illustrated  in  this  admirable  work,  are  rarely  to  be  found  explained  in 
such  a  clear  and  concise  manner  as  is  here  set  forth.  The  process  of  die-sinking  relates  to 
the  engraving  or  sinking  of  the  female  or  lower  dies,  such  as  are  used  for  drop  forgings,  hot 
and  cold  machine  forging,  swedging  and  the  press  working  of  metals.  The  process  of  force- 

)per  dies  used  in  producing  the 
icate  parts  of  metal. 

In  addition  to  the  arts  above  mentioned  the  book  contains  explicit  information  regarding 
the  drop  forging  and  hardening  plants,  designs,  conditions,  equipment,  drop  hammers, 
forging  machines,  etc.,  machine  forging,  hydraulic  forging,  autogenous  welding  and  shop 
practice.  The  book  contains  eleven  chapters,  and  the  information  contained  in  these  chapters 
is  just  what  will  prove  most  valuable  to  the  forged  metalworker.  All  operations  described 
in  the  work  are  thoroughly  illustrated  by  means  of  perspective  half-tones  and  outline  sketches 
of  the  machinery  employed.  300  detailed  illustrations.  Price $2.50 

DRAWING— SKETCHING    PAPER 

LINEAR  PERSPECTIVE  SELF-TAUGHT.  By  HERMAN  T.  C.  KRAUS. 
This  work  gives  the  theory  and  practice  of  linear  perspective,  as  used  in  architectural,  engi- 
neering, and  mechanical  drawings.  Persons  taking  up  the  study  of  the  subject  by  themselves 
will  be  able  by  the  use  of  the  instruction  given  to  readily  grasp  the  subject,  and  by  reason- 
able practice  become  good  perspective  draftsmen.  The  arrangement  of  the  book  is  good ; 
the  plate  is  on  the  left-hand,  while  the  descriptive  text  follows  on  the  opposite  page,  so  as  to 
be  readily  referred  to.  The  drawings  are  on  sufficiently  large  scale  to  show  the  work  clearly 
and  are  plainly  figured.  The  whole  work  makes  a  very  complete  course  on  perspective  draw- 
ing, and  will  be  found  of  great  value  to  architects,  civil  and  mechanical  engineers,  patent 
attorneys,  art  designers,  engravers,  and  draftsmen.  ."  . $2.50 

PRACTICAL  PERSPECTIVE.     By  RICHARDS  and  COLVIN. 

Shows  just  how  to  make  all  kinds  of  mechanical  drawings  in  the  only  practical  perspective 
isometric.  Makes  everything  plain  so  that  any  mechanic  can  understand  a  sketch  or  drawing 
in  this  way.  Saves  time  in  the  drawing  room,  and  mistakes  in  the  shops.  Contains  practical 
examples  of  various  classes  of  work.  3rd  Edition. 50  cents 

SELF-TAUGHT  MECHANICAL  DRAWING  AND  ELEMENTARY  MACHINE 
DESIGN.  By  F.  L.  SYLVESTER,  M.E.,  Draftsman,  with  additions  by  ERIK  OBERG, 
associate  editor  of  "Machinery." 

This  is  a  practical  treatise  on  Mechanical  Drawing  and  Machine  Design,  comprising  the 
first  principles  of  geometric  and  mechanical  drawing,  workshop  mathematics,  mechanics, 
strength  of  materials  and  the  calculations  and  design  of  machine  details.  The  author's 
aim  has  been  to  adapt  this  treatise  to  the  requirements  of  the  practical  mechanic  and  young 
draftsman  and  to  present  the  matter  in  as  clear  and  concise  a  manner  as  possible.  To 
meet  the  demands  of  this  class  of  students,  practically  all  the  important  elements  of  machine 
design  have  been  dealt  with,  and  in  addition  algebraic  formulas  have  been  explained,  and 
the  elements  of  trigonometry  treated  in  the  manner  best  suited  to  the  needs  of  the  prac- 
tical man.  The  book  is  divided  into  20  chapters,  and  in  arranging  the  material,  mechan- 
ical drawing,  pure  and  simple,  has  been  taken  up  first,  as  a  thorough  understanding  of  the 
principles  of  representing  objects  facilitates  the  further  study  of  mechanical  subjects.  This 
is  followed  by  the  mathematics  necessary  for  the  solution  of  the  problems  in  machine  de- 
sign which  are  presented  later,  and  a  practical  introduction  to  theoretical  mechanics  and 
the  strength  of  materials.  The  various  elements  entering  into  machine  design,  such  as  cams, 
gears,  sprocket  wheels,  cone  pulleys,  bolts,  screws,  couplings,  clutches,  shafting  and  fly- 
wheels have  been  treated  in  such  a  way  as  to  make  possible  the  use  of  the  work  as  a  text- 
book for  a  continuous  course  of  study.  It  is  easily  comprehended  and  assimilated  even  by 
students  of  limited  previous  training.  330  pages,  215  engravings.  Price.  .  .  .  $2.00 

A  NEW  SKETCHING  PAPER. 

A  new  specially  ruled  paper  to  enable  you  to  make  sketches  or  drawings  in  isometric  perspectivo 
without  any  figuring  or  fussing.  It  is  being  used  for  shop  details  as  well  as  for  assembly 
drawings,  as  it  makes  one  sketch  do  the  work  of  three,  and  no  workman  can  help  seeing  just 
what  is  wanted.  Pads  of  40  sheets,  6x9  inches,  25  cents.  Pads  of  40  sheets,  9  x  12  inches. 
50  cents;  40  sheets,  12x18,  Price $1.00 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

ELECTRICITY 

ARITHMETIC  OF  ELECTRICITY.     By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

A  practical  treatise  on  electrical  calculations  of  all  kinds  reduced  to  a  series  of  rules,  all  of  the 
simplest  forms,  and  involving  only  ordinary  arithmetic;  each  rule  illustrated  by  one  or  more 
practical  problems,  with  detailed  solution  of  each  one.  This  book  is  classed  among  the  most 
useful  works  published  on  the  science  of  electricity  covering  as  it  does  the  mathematics  of 
electricity  in  a  manner  that  will  attract  the  attention  of  those  who  are  not  familiar  with  alge- 
braical formulas.  20th  Edition.  160  pages.  Price $1.00 

COMMUTATOR  CONSTRUCTION.     By  WM.  BAXTER,  JR. 

The  business  end  of  any  dynamo  or  motor  of  the  direct  current  type  is  the  commutator.  This 
book  goes  into  the  designing,  building,  and  maintenance  of  commutators,  shows  how  to  locate 
troubles  and  how  to  remedy  them;  everyone  who  fusses  with  dynamos  needs  this.  25  cents 

DYNAMO  BUILDING  FOR  AMATEURS,  OR  HOW  TO  CONSTRUCT  A  FIFTY-WATT 
DYNAMO.  By  ARTHUR  J.  WEED,  Member  of  N.  Y.  Electrical  Society. 

A  practical  treatise  showing  in  detail  the  construction  of  a  small  dynamo  or  mot9r,  the  entire 
machine  work  of  which  can  be  done  on  a  small  foot  lathe.  Dimensioned  working  drawings 
are  given  for  each  piece  of  machine  work  and  each  operation  is  clearly  described.  This 
machine,  when  used  as  a  dynamo,  has  an  output  of  fifty  watts;  when  used  as  a  motor  it  will 
drive  a  small  drill  press  or  lathe.  It  can  be  used  to  drive  a  sewing  machine  on  any  and  all 
ordinary  work.  The  book  is  illustrated  with  more  than  sixty  original  engravings  showing 
the  actual  construction  of  the  different  parts.  Among  the  contents  are  chapters  on  1.  Fifty 
Watt  Dynamo.  2.  Side  Bearing  Rods.  3.  Field  Punchings.  4.  Bearings.  5.  Commu- 
tator. 6.  Pulley.  7.  Brush  Holders.  8.  Connection  Board.  9.  Armature  Shaft.  10. 
Armature.  11.  Armature  Winding.  12.  Field  Winding.  13.  Connecting  and  Starting. 
Price,  paper,  50  cents.  Cloth $1.00 

ELECTRIC  FURNACES  AND  THEIR  INDUSTRIAL  APPLICATIONS.   By  J.  WRIGHT 

This  is  a  book  which  will  prove  of  interest  to  many  classes  of  people;  the  manufacturer  who 
desires  to  know  what  product  can  be  manufactured  successfully  in  the  electric  furnace,  the 
chemist  who  wishes  to  post  himself  on  the  electro-chemistry,  and  the  student  of  science  who 
merely  looks  into  the  subject  from  curiosity.  The  book  is  not  so  scientific  as  to  be  of  use 
only  to  the  technologist,  nor  so  unscientific  as  to  suit  only  the  tyro  in  electro-chemistry;  it 
is  a  practical  treatise  of  what  has  been  done,  and  of  what  is  being  done,  both  experimentally 
and  commercially  with  the  electric  furnace. 

In  important  processes  not  only  are  the  chemical  equations  given,  but  complete  thermal  data 
are  set  forth  and  both  the  efficiency  of  the  furnace  and  the  cost  of  the  product  are  worked 
out,  thus  giving  the  work  a  solid  commercial  value  aside  from  its  efficacy  as  a  work  of  reference. 
The  practical  features  of  furnace  building  are  given  the  space  that  the  subject  deserves.  The 
forms  and  refractory  materials  used  in  the  linings,  the  arrangement  of  the  connections  to  the 
electrodes,  and  other  important  details  are  explained.  288  pages.  New  Revised  Edition. 
Fully  illustrated.  Price -  .  .  $3.00 

ELECTRIC  LIGHTING  AND  HEATING  POCKET  BOOK.     By  SYDNEY  F.  WALKER. 

This  book  puts  in  convenient  form  useful  information  regarding  the  apparatus  which  is  likely 
to  be  attached  to  the  mains  of  an  electrical  company.  Tables  of  units  and  equivalents  are 
included  and  useful  electrical  laws  and  formulas  are  stated. 

One  section  is  devoted  to  dynamos,  motors,  transformers  and  accessory  apparatus;  another 
to  accumulators,  another  to  switchboards  and  related  equipment,  a  fourth  to  a  description 
of  various  systems  of  distribution,  a  fifth  section  to  a  discussion  of  instruments,  both  for 
portable  use  and  switchboards;  another  section  deals  with  electric  lamps  of  various  types 
and  accessory  appliances,  and  the  concluding  section  is  given  up  to  electric  heating  apparatus. 
In  each  section  a  large  number  of  commercial  types  are  described,  frequent  tables  of  dimen- 
sions being  included.  A  great  deal  of  detail  information  of  each  line  of  apparatus  is  given 
and  the  illustrations  shown  give  a  good  idea  of  the  general  appearance  of  the  apparatus  under 
discussion.  The  book  also  contains  much  valuable  information  for  the  central  station  engi- 
neer. 438  pages.  300  engravings.  Bound  in  leather  pocket  book  form.  Price  .  $3.00 

ELECTRIC  WIRING,  DIAGRAMS  AND  SWITCHBOARDS.  By  NEWTON  HARRISON. 

A  thoroughly  practical  treatise  covering  the  subject  of  Electric  Wiring  in  all  its  branches, 
including  explanations  and  diagrams  which  are  thoroughly  explicit  and  greatly  simplify 
the  subject.  Practical  every-day  problems  in  wiring  are  presented  and  the  method  of 
obtaining  intelligent  results  clearly  shown.  Only  arithmetic  is  used.  Ohm's  law  is  given 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

a  simple  explanation  with  reference  to  wiring  for  direct  and  alternating  currents.  The  funda- 
mental principle  of  drop  of  potential  in  circuits  is  shown  with  its  various  applications.  The 
simple  circuit  is  developed  with  the  position  of  mains,  feeders  and  branches ;  their  treat- 
ment as  a  part  of  a  wiring  plan  and  their  employment  in  house- wiring  clearly  illustrated. 
Some  simple  facts  about  testing  are  included  in  connection  with  the  wiring.  Molding 
and  conduit  work  are  given  careful  consideration;  and  switchboards  are  systematically 
treated,  built  up  and  illustrated,  showing  the  purpose  they  serve,  for  connection  with  the 
circuits,  and  to  shunt  and  compound  wound  machines.  The  simple  principles  of  switchboard 
construction,  the  development  of  the  switchboard,  the  connections  of  the  various  instru- 
ments including  the  lightning  arrester,  are  also  plainly  set  forth. 

Alternating  current  wiring  is  treated,  with  explanations  of  the  power  factor,  conditions 
calling  for  various  sizes  of  wire  and  a  simple  way  of  obtaining  the  sizes  for  single-phase,  two- 
phase  and  three-phase  circuits.  This  is  the  only  complete  work  issued  showing  and  telling 
you  what  you  should  know  about  direct  and  alternating  current  wiring.  It  is  a  ready  refer- 
ence. The  work  is  free  from  advanced  technicalities  and  mathematics,  arithmetic  being  used 
throughout.  It  is  in  every  respect  a  handy,  well-written,  instructive,  comprehensive 
volume  on  wiring  for  the  wireman,  foreman,  contractor,  or  electrician.  272  pages;  105  illus- 
trations. Price $1.60 

ELECTRIC  TOY  MAKING,  DYNAMO  BUILDING,  AND  ELECTRIC  MOTOR  CON- 
STRUCTION. By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

This  work  treats  of  the  making  at  home  of  electrical  toys,  electrical  apparatus,  motors,  dynamos 
and  instruments  in  general,  and  is  designed  to  bring  within  the  reach  of  young  and  old  the 
manufacture  of  genuine  and  useful  electrical  appliances.  The  work  is  especially  designed  for 
amateurs  and  young  folks. 

Thousands  of  our  young  people  are  daily  experimenting,  and  busily  engaged  in  making  electrical 
toys  and  apparatus  of  various  kinds.  The  present  work  is  just  what  is  wanted  to  give  the 
much  needed  information  in  a  plain,  practical  manner,  with  illustrations  to  make  easy  the 
carrying  out  of  the  work.  19th  Edition.  Price $1.00 

ELECTRICIAN'S  HANDY  BOOK.     By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

This  work  of  768  pages  is  intended  for  the  practical  electrician  who  has  to  make  things  go. 
The  entire  field  of  electricity  is  covered  within  its  pages.  Among  some  of  the  subjects  treated 
are:  The  Theory  of  the  Electric  Current  and  Circuit,  Elect ro-Chemistry,  Primary  Batteries, 
Storage  Batteries,  Generation  and  Utilization  of  Electric  Powers,  Alternating  Current,  Arma- 
ture Winding,  Dynamos  and  Motors,  Motor  Generators,  Operation  of  the  Central  Station 
Switchboards,  Safety  Appliances,  Distribution  "of  Electric  Light  and  Power,  Street  Mains, 
Transformers,  Arc  and  Incandescent  Lighting,  Electric  Measurements,  Photometry,  Electric 
Railways,  Telephony,  Bell-Wiring,  Electro-Plating,  Electric  Heating,  Wireless  Telegraphy,  etc. 
It  contains  no  useless  theory;  everything  is  to  the  point.  It  teaches  you  just  what  you  want 
to  know  about  electricity.  It  is  the  standard  work  published  on  the  subject.  Forty-pne 
chapters,  610  engravings,  handsomely  bound  in  red  leather  with  title  and  edges  in  gold.  Price: 

$3.50 

ELECTRICITY  IN  FACTORIES  AND  WORKSHOPS,  ITS  COST  AND  CONVENIENCE. 
By  ARTHUR  P.  HASLAM. 

A  practical  book  for  power  producers  and  power  users  showing  what  a  convenience  the  electric 
motor,  in  its  yarious  forms,  has  become  to  the  modern  manufacturer.  It  also  deals  with  the 
conditions  which  determine  the  cost  of  electric  driving,  and  compares  this  with  other  methods 
of  producing  and  utilizing  power. 

Among  the  chapters  contained  in  the  book  are:  The  Direct  Current  Motor;  The  Alternating 
Current  Motor;  The  Starting  and  Speed  Regulation  of  Electric  Motors;  The  Rating  and 
Efficiency  of  Electric  Motors;  The  Cost  of  Energy  as  Affected  by  Conditions  of  Working,  The 
Question  for  the  Small  Power  User;  Independent  Generating  Plants;  Oil  and  Gas  Engine 
Plants;  Steam  Plants;  Power  Station  Tariffs;  The  Use  of  Electric  Power  in  Textile  Factories; 
Electric  Power  in  Printing  Works;  The  Use  of  Electric  Power  in  Engineering  Workshops 
Miscellaneous  Application  of  Electric  Power;  The  Installation  of  Electric  Motors;  The  Lighting 
of  Industrial  Establishments.  312  pages.  Very  fully  illustrated.  Price  ....  $.3.50 

ELECTRICITY  SIMPLIFIED.     By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

The  object  of  "Electricity  Simplified"  is  to  make  the  subject  as  plain  as  possible  and  to  show 
what  the  modern  conception  of  electricity  is;  to  show  how  two  plates  of  different  metals 
immersed  in  acid  can  send  a  message  around  the  globe;  to  explain  how  a  bundle  of  copper  wire 
rotated  by  a  steam  engine  can  be  the  agent  in  lighting  our  streets,  to  tell  what  the  volt,  ohm 
and  ampere  are,  and  what  high  and  low  tension  mean;  and  to  answer  the  questions  that 
perpetually  arise  in  the  mind  in  this  age  of  electricity.  172  pages.  Illustrated.  Price  $  1.00 

10 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


HOUSE  WIRING.     By  THOMAS  W.  POPPE. 

This  work  describes  and  illustrates  the  actual  installation  of  Electric  Light  Wiring,  the  manner 
in  which  the  work  should  be  done,  and  the  method  of  doing  it.  The  book  can  be  conveniently 
carried  in  the  pocket.  It  is  intended  for  the  Electrician,  Helper  and  Apprentice.  It 
solves  all  Wiring  Problems,  and  contains  nothing  that  conflicts  with  the  rulings  of  the  Nation- 
al Board  of  Fire  Underwriters.  It  gives  just  the  information  essential  to  the  Successful 
Wiring  of  a  Building.  Among  the  subjects  treated  are:  Locating  the  Meter.  Panel  Boards. 
Switches.  Plug  Receptacles.  Brackets.  Ceiling  Fixtures.  The  Meter  Connections.  The 
Feed  Wires.  The  Steel  Armored  Cable  System.  The  Flexible  Steel  Conduit  System.  The 
Ridig  Conduit  System.  A  digest  of  the  National  Board  of  Fire  Underwriters'  rules  relating 
to  metallic  wiring  systems.  Various  switching  arrangements  explained  and  diagrammed. 
The  easiest  method  of  testing  the  Three  and  Four-way  circuits  explained.  The  grounding 
of  all  metallic  wiring  systems  and  the  reason  for  doing  so  shown  and  explained.  The  in- 
sulation of  the  metal  parts  of  lamp  fixtures  and  the  reason  for  the  same  described  and 
illustrated.  125  pages.  Fully  illustrated.  Flexible  cloth.  Price 60  cents 

HOW  TO  BECOME  A  SUCCESSFUL  ELECTRICIAN.  By  Prof.  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

Every  young  man  who  wishes  to  become  a  successful  electrician  should  read  this  book.  It  tells 
in  simple  language  the  surest  and  easiest  way  to  become  a  successful  electrician.  The  studies 
to  be  followed,  methods  of  work,  field  of  operation  and  the  requirements  of  the  successful 
electrician  are  pointed  out  and  fully  explained.  Every  young  engineer  will  find  this  an  ex- 
cellent stepping-stone  to  more  advanced  works  on  electricity  which  he  must  master  before 
success  can  be  attained.  Many  young  men  become  discouraged  at  the  very  outstart  by 
attempting  to  read  and  study  books  that  are  far  beyond  their  comprehension.  This  book 
serves  as  the  connecting  link  between  the  rudiments  taught  in  the  public  schools  and  the  real 
study  of  electricity.  It  is  interesting  from  cover  to  cover.  Fifteenth  edition.  202  pages. 
Illustrated.  Price  $1.00 

MANAGEMENT   OF  DYNAMOS.     By  LUMMIS-PATERSON. 

A  handbook  of  theory  and  practice.  This  work  is  arranged  in  three  parts.  The  first  part 
covers  the  elementary  theory  of  the  dynamo.  The  second  part,  the  construction  and  action 
of  the  different  classes  of  dynamos  in  common  use  are  described;  while  the  third  part  relates 
to  such  matters  as  affect  the  practical  management  and  working  of  dynamos  and  motors. 
The  following  chapters  are  contained  in  the  book:  Electrical  Units;  Magnetic  Principles; 
Theory  of  the  Dynamo;  Armature;  Armature  in  Practice;  Field  Magnets;  Field  Magnets  in 
Practice;  Regulating  Dynamos;  Coupling  Dynamos;  Installation,  Running,  and  Maintenance 
of  Dynamos;  Faults  in  Dynamos;  Faults  in  Armatures;  Motors.  292  pages.  117  illustra- 
tions. Price $1.50 

STANDARD  ELECTRICAL  DICTIONARY.     By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

An  indispensable  work  to  all  interested  in  electrical  science.  Suitable  alike  for  the  student 
and  professional.  A  practical  hand-book  of  reference  containing  definitions  of  about  5,000 
distinct  words,  terms  and  phrases.  The  definitions  are  terse  and  concise  and  include  every 
term  used  in  electrical  science.  Recently  issued.  An  entirely  new  edition.  Should  be  in  the 
possession  of  all  who  desire  to  keep  abreast  with  the  progesss  of  this  branch  of  science.  In 
its  arrangement  and  typography  the  book  is  very  convenient.  The  word  or  term  defined  is 
printed  in  black-faced  type  which  readily  catches  the  eye,  while  the  body  of  the  page  is  in 
smaller  but  distinct  type.  The  definitions  are  well  worded,  and  so  as  to  be  understood  by 
the  non-technical  reader.  The  general  plan  seems  to  be  to  give  an  exact,  concise  definition, 
and  then  amplify  and  explain  in  a  more  popular  way.  Synonyms  are  also  given,  and  refer- 
ences to  other  words  and  phrases  are  made.  A  very  complete  and  accurate  index  of  fifty 
pages  is  at  the  end  of  the  volume;  and  as  this  index  contains  all  synonyms,  and  as  all  phrases 
are  indexed  in  every  reasonable  combination  of  words,  reference  to  the  proper  place  in  the 
body  of  the  book  is  readily  made.  It  is  difficult  to  decide  how  far  a  book  of  this  character 
is  to  keep  the  dictionary  form,  and  to  what  extent  it  may  assume  the  encyclopedia  form. 
For  some  purposes,  concise,  exactly  worded  definitions  are  needed;  for  other  purposes,  more 
extended  descriptions  are  required.  This  book  seeks  to  satisfy  both  demands,  and  does  it 
with  considerable  success.  Complete,  concise,  and  convenient.  682  pages.  393  illustra- 
tions. Twelfth  edition.  Price $3.00 

SWITCHBOARDS.     By  WILLIAM  BAXTER,  JR. 

This  book  appeals  to  every  engineer  and  electrician  who  wants  to  know  the  practical  side  of 
things.  It  takes  up  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  dynamos,  connections  and  circuits  and  shows 
by  diagram  and  illustration  just  how  the  switchboard  should  be  connected.  Includes  direct 
and  alternating  current  boards,  also  those  for  arc  lighting,  incandescent,  and  power  circuits. 
Special  treatment  on  high  voltage  boards  for  power  transmission.  2d  Edition.  190  pages. 
Illustrated.  Price $1.5O 

II 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

TELEPHONE  CONSTRUCTION,  INSTALLATION,  WIRING,  OPERATION  AND 
MAINTENANCE.  By  W.  H.  RADCLIFFE  and  H.  C.  GUSHING. 

This  book  gives  the  principles  of  construction  gnd  operation  of  both  the  Bell  and  Independent 
instruments ;  approved  methods  of  installing  and  wiring  them ;  the  means  of  protecting  them 
from  lightning  and  abnormal  currents;  their  connection  together  for  operation  as  series  or 
bridging  stations ;  and  rules  for  their  inspection  and  maintenance.  Line  wiring  and  the  wir- 
ing and  operation  of  special  telephone  systems  are  also  treated. 

Intricate  mathematics  are  avoided,  and  all  apparatus,  circuits  and  systems  are  thoroughly 
described.  The  appendix  contains  definitions  of  units  and  terms  used  in  the  text.  Selected 
wiring  tables,  which  are  very  helpful,  are  also  included.  Among  the  subjects  treated  are 
Construction,  Operation,  and  installation  of  Telephone  Instruments,  Inspection  and  Main- 
tenance of  Telephone  Instruments;  Telephone  Line  Wiring;  Testing  Telephone  Line  Wires 
and  Cables;  Wiring  and  Operation  of  Special  Telephone  Systems,  etc.  100  pages,  125  illus- 
trations.  $1.00 

WIRELESS  TELEGRAPHY  AND  TELEPHONY  SIMPLY  EXPLAINED. 
BY  ALFRED  P.  MORGAN. 

This  is  undoubtedly  one  of  the  most  complete  and  comprehensible  treatises  on  the  subject 
ever  published,  and  a  close  study  of  its  pages  will  enable  one  to  master  all  the  details  of  the 
wireless  transmission  of  messages.  The  author  has  filled  a  long  felt  want  and  has  succeeded 
in  furnishing  a  lucid,  comprehensible  explanation  in  simple  language  of  the  theory  and 
practice  of  wireless  telegraphy  and  telephony. 

Among  the  contents  are:  Introductory;  Wireless  Transmission  and  Reception — The 
Aerial  System,  Earth  Connections — The  Transmitting  Apparatus,  Spark  Coils  and  Trans- 
formers, Condensers,  Helixes,  Spark  Gaps,  Anchor  Gaps,  Aerial  Switches — The  Receiving 
Apparatus,  Detectors,  etc. — Tuning  and  Coupling,  Tuning  Coils,  Loose  Couplers,  Variable 
Condensers,  Directive  Wave  Systems — Miscellaneous  Apparatus,  Telephone  Receivers, 
Range  of  Stations,  Static,  Interference — Wireless  Telephones,  Sound  and  Sound  Waves,  The 
Vocal  Cords  and  Ear — Wireless  Telephones,  How  Sounds  are  changed  into  Electric  Waves — 
Wireless  Telephones,  The  Apparatus — Summary.  200  pages.  150  engravings.  Price  $1.00 

WIRELESS  TELEPHONES  AND  HOW  THEY  WORK.    By  JAMES  ERSKINE-MURRA Y. 

This  work  is  free  from  elaborate  details  and  aims  at  giving  a  clear  survey  of  the  way  in  which 
Wireless  Telephones  work.  It  is  intended  for  amateur  workers  and  for  those  whose  knowledge 
of  electricity  is  slight.  Chapters  contained:  How  We  Hear;  Historical;  The  Conversion  of 
Sound  into  Electric  Waves;  Wireless  Transmission;  The  Production  of  Alternating  Currents 
of  High  Frequency;  How  the  Electric  Waves  are  Radiated  and  Received;  The  Receiving 
Instruments;  Detectors;  Achievements  and  Expectations;  Glossary  of  Technical  Words, 
Cloth.  Price 851.00 

WIRING  A  HOUSE.     By  HERBERT  PRATT. 

Shows  a  house  already  built;  tells  just  how  to  start  about  wiring  it;  where  to  begin;  what 
wire  to  use;  how  to  run  it  according  to  Insurance  Rules;  in  fact  just  the  information  you  need. 
Directions  apply  equally  to  a  shop.  Fourth  edition 25  cents 

FACTORY  MANAGEMENT,  ETC. 


MODERN  MACHINE  SHOP  CONSTRUCTION,  EQUIPMENT  AND  MANAGEMENT. 
By  O.  E.  PERRIGO,  M.E. 

The  only  work  published  that  describes  the  modern  machine  shop  or  manufacturing  plant  from 
the  time  the  grass  is  growing  on  the  site  intended  for  it  until  the  finished  product  is  shipped. 
By  a  careful  study  of  its  thirty-two  chapters  the  practical  man  may  economically  build, 
efficiently  equip,  and  successfully  manage  the  modern  machine  shop  or  manufacturing  estab- 
ishment.  Just  the  book  needed  by  those  contemplating  the  erection  of  modern  shop  buildings, 
the  re-building  and  re-organization  of  old  ones,  or  the  introduction  of  modern  shop  methods, 
time  and  cost  system.  It  is  a  book  written  and  illustrated  by  a  practical  shop  man  for  practical 
shop  men  who  are  too  busy  to  read  theories  and  want  facts.  It  is  the  most  complete  all  around 
book  of  its  kind  ever  publish/id.  It  is  a  practical  book  for  practical  men,  from  the  apprentice 
in  the  shop  to  the  president  in  the  office.  It  minutely  describes  and  illustrates  the  most  simple 
and  yet  the  most  efficient  time  and  cost  system  yet  devised.  Price $5.00 

12 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


FUEL 


COMBUSTION  OF  COAL  AND  THE  PREVENTION  OF  SMOKE.   By  WM.  M.  BARR. 

This  book  has  been  prepared  with  special  reference  to  the  generation  of  heat  by  the  combus- 
tion of  the  common  fuels  found  in  the  United  States,  and  deals  particularly  with  the  condi- 
tions necessary  to  the  economic  and  smokeless  combustion  of  bituminous  coals  in  Stationary 
and  Locomotive  Steam  Boilers. 

The  presentation  of  this  important  subject  is  systematic  and  progressive.  The  arrangement 
of  the  book  is  in  a  series  of  practical  questions  to  which  are  appended  accurate  answers, 
which  describe  in  language,  free  from  technicalities,  the  several  processes  involved  in  the 
furnace  combustion  of  American  fuels;  it  clearly  states  the  essential  requisites  for  perfect 
combustion,  and  points  out  the  best  methods  for  furnace  construction  for  obtaining  the  great- 
est quantity  of  heat  from  any  given  quality  of  coal.  Nearly  350  pages,  fully  illustrated. 
Price U $1.00 

SMOKE   PREVENTION   AND   FUEL   ECONOMY.     By  BOOTH  and  KERSHAW. 

A  complete  treatise  for  all  interested  in  smoke  prevention  and  combustion,  being  based  on 
the  German  work  of  Ernst  Schmatolla,  but  it  is  more  than  a  mere  translation  of  the  German 
treatise,  much  being  added.  The  authors  show  as  briefly  as  possible  the  principles  of  fuel 
combustion,  the  methods  which  have  been  and  are  at  present  .in  use,  as  well  as  the  proper 
scientific  methods  for  obtaining  all  the  energy  in  the  coal  and  burning  it  without  smoke. 
Considerable  space  is  also  given  to  the  examination  of  the  waste  gases,  and  several  of  the 
representative  English  and  American  mechanical  stoker  and  similar  appliances  are  described. 
The  losses  carried  away  in  the  waste  gases  are  thoroughly  analyzed  and  discussed  in  the  Ap- 
pendix, and  abstracts  are  also  here  given  of  various  patents  on  combustion  apparatus.  The 
book  is  complete  and  contains  much  of  value  to  all  who  have  charge  of  large  plants.  194 
pages.  Illustrated.  Price 92.60 

GAS  ENGINES  AND   GAS 

GASOLINE  ENGINES :  THEIR  OPERATION,  USE  AND  CARE.     By  A.  HYATT 

VERRILL. 

The  Simplest,  Latest  and  Most  Comprehensive  popular  work  published  on  Gasoline  Engines 
describing  what  the  Gasoline  engine  is;  its  construction  and  operation ;  how  to  install  it; 
how  to  select  it;  how  to  use  it  and  how  to  remedy  troubles  encountered.  Intended  for  owners, 
Operators  and  Users  of  Gasoline  Motors  of  all  kinds.  This  work  fully  describes  and  illus- 
trates the  various  types  of  Gasoline  engines  used  in  Motor  Boats,  Motor  Vehicles  and 
Stationary  Work.  The  parts,  accessories  and  Appliances  are  described,  with  chapters  on 
ignition,  fuel,  lubrication,  operation  and  engine  troubles.  Special  attention  is  given  to  the 
care,  operation  and  repair  of  motors  with  useful  hints  and  suggestions  on  emergency  re- 
pairs and  make-shifts.  A  complete  glossary  of  technical  terms  and  an  alphabetically  ar- 
ranged table  of  troubles  and  their  symptoms  form  most  valuable  and  unique  features  of  this 
manual.  Nearly  every  illustration  in  the  book  is  original,  having  been  made  by  the  author. 
Every  page  is  full  of  interest  and  value.  A  book  which  you  cannot  afford  to  be  without.  320 
pages.  Nearly  150  specially  made  engravings.  Price $1.50 

GAS,  GASOLINE,  AND  OIL  ENGINES.     By  GARDNER  £>.  Hiscox. 

Just  issued,  20th  revised  and  enlarged  edition.  Every  user  of  a  gas  engine  needs  this  book. 
Simple,  instructive,  and  right  up-to-date.  The  only  complete  work  on  the  subject.  Tells 
all  about  the  running  and  management  of  gas,  gasoline  and  oil  engines,  as  designed  and  manu- 
factured in  the  United  States.  Explosive  motors  for  stationary,  marine  and  vehicle  power  are 
fully  treated,  together  with  illustrations  of  their  parts  and  tabulated  sizes,  also  their  care  and 
running  are  included.  Electric  ignition  by  induction  coil  and  jump  spark  are  fully  explained 
and  illustrated,  including  valuable  information  on  the  testing  for  economy  and  power  and  the 
erection  of  power  plants. 

The  rules  and  regulations  of  the  Board  of  Fire  Underwriters  in  regard  to  the  installation  an1 
management  of  gasoline  motors  is  given  in  full,  suggesting  the  safe  installation  of  explosive 
motor  power.  A  list  of  United  States  Patents  issued  on  gas,  gasoline,  and  oil  engines  and  their 
adjuncts  from  1875  to  date  is  included.  484  pages.  410  engravings  Price  .  .  .  $2.50 

MODERN  GAS  ENGINES  AND  PRODUCER  GAS  PLANTS.    By  R.  E.  MATHOT,  M.E. 

A  guide  for  the  gas  engine  designer,  user,  and  engineer  in  the  construction,  selection,  purchase 
installation,  operation,  and  maintenance  of  gas  engines.  More  than  one  book  on  gas  engines 
has  been  written,  but  not  one  has  thus  far  even  encroached  on  the  field  covered  by  this  book. 
Above  all  Mr.  Mathot's  work  is  a  practical  guide.  Recognizing  the  need  of  a  volume  that 

'3 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

would  assist  the  gas  engine  user  in  understanding  thoroughly  the  motor  upon  which  he  depends 
for  power,  the  author  has  discussed  his  subject  without  the  help  of  any  mathematics  and 
without  elaborate  theoretical  explanations.  Every  part  of  the  gas  engine  is  described  in  detail, 
tersely,  clearly,  with  a  thorough  understanding  of  the  requirements  of  the  mechanic.  Helpful 
suggestions  as  to  the  purchase  of  an  engine,  its  installation,  care,  and  operation  form  a  most 
valuable  feature  of  the  work.  320  pages.  175  detailed  illustrations.  Price  .  .  .  $2.50 

GAS  ENGINE  CONSTRUCTION,  OR  HOW  TO  BUILD  A  HALF-HORSE-POWER 
GAS  ENGINE.  By  PARSELL  and  WEED. 

A  practical  treatise  of  300  pages  describing  the  thepry  and  principles  of  the  action  of  Gas 
Engines  of  various  types  and  the  design  and  construction  of  a  half-horse  power  Gas  Engine,  with 
illustrations  of  the  work  in  actual  progress,  together  with  the  dimensioned  working  drawings 
giving  clearly  the  sizes  of  the  various  details;  for  the  student,  the  scientific  investigator  and  the 
amateur  mechanic. 

Tnis  book  treats  of  the  subject  more  from  the  standpoint  of  practice  than  that  of  theory.  The 
principles  of  operation  of  Gas  Engines  are  clearly  and  simply  described  and  then  the  actual 
construction  of  a  half-horse  power  engine  is  taken  up,  step  by  step,  showing  in  detail  the  making 
of  the  Gas  Engine.  3d  Edition.  300  pages.  Price $2.50 

THE  GASOLINE  ENGINE  ON  THE  FARM:  ITS  OPERATION,  REPAIR 
AND  USES.  By  XENO  W.  PUTNAM. 

This  is  a  practical  treatise  on  the  Gasoline  and  Kerosene  engine  intended  for  the  man  who 
wants  to  know  just  how  to  manage  his  engine  and  how  to  apply  it  to  all  kinds  of  farm  work 
to  the  best  advantage. 

The  book  includes  selecting  the  most  suitable  engine  for  farm  work,  its  most  convenient  and 
efficient  installation,  with  chapters  on  troubles,  their  remedies  and  how  to  avoid  them. 
The  care  and  management  of  the  farm  tractor  in  plowing,  harrowing,  harvesting  and  road 

trading  are  fully  covered;  also  plain  directions  are  given  for  handling  the  tractor  on  the  road, 
pecial  attention  is  given  to  relieving  farm  life  of  its  drudgery  by  applying  power  to  the 
disagreeable  small  tasks  which  must  otherwise  be  done  by  hand.  Many  homemade  con- 
trivances for  cutting  wood,  supplying  kitchen  garden  and  barn  with  water,  loading,  hauling 
and  unloading  hay,  delivering  grain  to  the  bins  or  the  feed  trough  are  included;  also  lull 
directions  for  making  the  engine  milk  the  cows,  churn,  wash,  sweep  the  house  and  clean  the 
windows,  etc.  Very  fully  illustrated  with  drawings  of  working  parts  and  cuts  showing 
Stationary,  Portable  and  Tractor  Engines  doing  all  kinds  of  farm  work.  300  pages.  Nearly 
150  engravings.  12mo.  Price $1.5O 

CHEMISTRY  OF  GAS  MANUFACTURE.     By  H.  M.  ROYLES. 

This  book  covers  points  likely  to  arise  in  the  ordinary  course  of  the  duties  of  the  engineer  or 
manager  of  a  gas  works  not  large  enough  to  necessitate  the  employment  of  a  separate  chemical 
staff.  It  treats  of  the  testing  of  the  raw  materials  employed  in  the  manufacture  of  illuminat- 
ing coal  gas,  and  of  the  gas  produced.  The  preparation  of  standard  solutions  is  given  as  well 
as  the  chemical  and  physical  examination  of  gas  coal  including  among  its  contents — Prepa- 
rati9ns  of  Standard  Solutions,  Coal,  Furnaces,  Testing  and  Regulati9n.  Products  of  Car- 
bonization. Analysis  of  Crude  Coal  Gas.  Analysis  of  Lime.  Ammonia.  Analysis  of  Oxide 
of  Iron.  Naphthalene.  Analysis  of  Fire-Bricks  and  Fire-Clay.  Weldom  and  Spent  Oxide. 
Photometry  and  Gas  Testing.  Carburetted  Water  Gas.  Metropolis  Gas.  Miscellaneous 
Extracts.  Useful  Tables $4.50 

GEARING  AND  CAMS 

BEVEL  GEAR  TABLES.     By  D.  AG.  ENGSTROM. 

A  book  that  will  at  once  commend  itself  to  mechanics  and  draftsmen.  Does  away  with  all 
the  trigonometry  and  fancy  figuring  on  bevel  gears  and  makes  it  easy  for  anyone  to  lay  them 
out  or  make  them  just  right.  There  are  36  full-page  tables  that  show  every  necessary  dimen- 
si9n  for  all  sizes  or  combinations  you're  apt  to  need.  No  puzzling  figuring  or  guessing. 
Gives  placing  distance,  all  the  angles  (including  cutting  angles) ,  and  the  correct  cutter  to  use. 
A  copy  of  this  prepares  you  for  anything  in  the  bevel  gear  line.  66  pages.  .  $1.00 

CHANGE  GEAR  DEVICES.     By  OSCAR  E.  PERRIGO. 

A  practical  book  for  every  designer,  draftsman,  and  mechanic  interested  in  the  invention  and 
development  of  the  devices  for  feed  changes  on  the  different  machines  requiring  such  mechan- 
ism. All  the  necessary  information  on  this  subject  is  taken  up,  analyzed,  classified,  sifted, 
and  concentrated  for  the  use  of  busy  men  who  have  not  the  time  to  go  through  the  masses 
of  irrelevant  matter  with  which  such  a  subject  is  usually  encumbered  and  select  such  infor- 
mation as  will  be  useful  to  them. 

It  shows  just  what  has  been  done,  how  it  has  been  done,  when  it  was  done,  and  who  did  it. 
It  saves  time  in  hunting  up  patent  records  and  re-inventing  old  ideas.  88  pages.  $1.00 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


DRAFTING  OF  CAMS.     By  Louis  ROUILLION. 

problem  unless  you 
any  kind  of  cam  yc 

HYDRAULICS 


he  laying  out  of  cams  is  a  serious  problem  unless  you  know  how  to  go  at  it  right.     This  puts 
DU  on  the  right  road  for  practically  any  kind  of  cam  you  are  likely  to  run  up  against.  25  cents 


HYDRAULIC   ENGINEERING.     By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

A  treatise  on  the  properties,  power,  and  resources  of  water  for  all  purposes.  Including  the 
measurement  of  streams,  the  flow  of  water  in  pipes  or  conduits;  the  horse-power  of  falling 
water;  turbine  and  impact  water-wheels,  wave  motors,  centrifugal,  reciprocating,  and  air- 
lift pumps.  With  300  figures  and  diagrams  and  36  practical  tables. 

All  who  are  interested  in  water-works  development  will  find  this  book  a  useful  one,  because 
it  is  an  entirely  practical  treatise  upon  a  subject  of  present  importance,  and  cannot  fail  in 
having  a  far-reaching  influence,  and  for  this  reason  should  have  a  place  in  the  working  library 
of  every  engineer.  Among  the  subjects  treated  are:  Historical — Hydraulics,  Properties  of 
Water;  Measurement  of  the  flow  of  Streams;  Flow  from  Subsurface  orifices  and  nozzles; 
Flow  of  water  in  Pipes;  Siphons  of  various  kinds;  Dams  and  Great  Storage  Reservoirs; 
City  and  Town  Water  Supply;  Wells  and  their  reenforcement;  Air  lift  methods  of  raising 
water;  artesian  wells;  Irrigation  of  Arid  districts;  Water  Power,  Water  Wheels;  Pumps  and 
Pumping  Machinery;  Reciprocating  Pumps;  Hydraulic  Power  Transmission;  Hydraulic 
Mining ;  Canals ;  Ditches ;  Conduits  and  Pipe  Lines ;  Marine  Hydraulics ;  Tidal  and  Sea 
Wave  power,  etc.  320  pages.  Price $4.00 

ICE    AND    REFRIGERATION 

POCKET  BOOK  OF  REFRIGERATION  AND  ICE  MAKING.      By  A.  J.  WALLIS- 

TAYLOR. 

This  is  one  of  the  latest  and  most  comprehensive  reference  books  published  on  the  subject  of 
refrigeration  and  cold  storage.  It  explains  the  properties  and  refrigerating  effect  of  the  different 
fluids  in  use,  the  management  of  refrigerating  machinery  and  the  construction  and  insulation 
of  cold  rooms  with  their  required  pipe  surface  for  different  degrees  of  cold;  freezing  mixtures 
and  non-freezing  brines,  temperatures  of  cold  rooms  for  all  kinds  of  provisions,  cold  storage 
charges  for  all  classes  of  goods,  ice  making  and  storage  of  ice,  data  and  memoranda  for  constant 
reference  by  refrigerating  engineers,  with  nearly  one  hundred  tables  containing  valuable 
references  to  every  fact  and  condition  required  in  the  installment  and  operation  of  a  refrigerat- 
ing plant.  Illustrated.  (5th  Edition,  revised.)  Price $1.50 

INVENTIONS— PATENTS 

INVENTOR'S  MANUAL,  HOW  TO  MAKE  A  PATENT  PAY. 

This  is  a  book  designed  as  a  guide  to  inventors  in  perfecting  their  inventions,  taking  out  their 
patents  and  disposing  of  them.  It  is  not  in  any  sense  a  Patent  Solicitor's  Circular,  nor  a 
Patent  Broker's  Advertisement.  No  advertisements  of  any  description  appear  hi  the  work. 
It  is  a  book  containing  a  quarter  of  a  century's  experience  of  a  successful  inventor,  together 
with  notes  based  upon  the  experience  of  many  other  inventors. 

Among  the  subjects  treated  in  this  work  are:  How  to  Invent.  How  to  Secure  a  Good 
Patent.  Value  of  Good  Invention.  How  to  exhibit  an  Invention.  How  to  Interest 
Capital.  How  to  Estimate  the  Value  of  a  Patent.  Value  of  Design  Patents.  Value  of 
Foreign  Patents.  Value  of  Small  Inventions.  Advice  on  Selling  Patents.  Advice  on  the 
Formation  of  Stock  Companies.  Advice  on  the  Formation  of  Limited  Liabih'ty  Companies. 
Advice  on  Disposing  of  Old  Patents.  Advice  as  to  Patent  Attorneys.  Advice  as  to  Selling 

§;nts.  Forms  of  Assignments.  License  and  Contracts.  State  Laws  Concerning  Patent 
hts.  1900  Census  of  the  United  States  by  counties  of  over  10,000  population.  Revised 
-Jon.  120  pages.  Price $1.00 

KNOTS 

KNOTS,  SPLICES  AND  ROPE  WORK.     By  A.  HYATT  VERRILL. 
This  is  a  practical  book  giving  complete  and  simple  directions  for  making  all  the  most  use- 
ful and  ornamental  knots  in  common  use.  with  chapters  on  Splicing,  Pointing,   Seizing, 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

Serving,  etc.  This  book  is  fully  illustrated  with  one  hundred  and  fifty  original  engravings, 
which  show  how  each  knot,  tie  or  splice  is  formed  and  its  appearance  when  finished.  The 
book  will  be  found  of  the  greatest  value  to  Campers,  Yachtsmen,  Travelers,  Boy  Scouts, 
in  fact  to  anyone  having  occasion  to  use  or  handle  rope  or  knots  for  any  purpose.  The  book 
is  thoroughly  reliable  and  practical  and  is  not  only  a  guide  but  a  teacher.  It  is  the  standard 
work  on  the  subject.  Among  the  contents  are:  1.  Cordage,  Kinds  of  Rope.  Construction 
of  Rope,  Parts  of  Rope  Cable  and  Bolt  Rope.  Strength  of  Rope,  Weight  of  Rope.  2.  Sim- 
ple knots  and  Bends.  Terms  used  in  Handling  Rope.  Seizing  Rope.  3.  Ties  and  Hitches. 
4.  Noose,  Loops  and  Mooring  Knots.  5.  Shortenings,  Grommets  and  Selvages.  6.  Lash- 
ings. Seizings  and  Splices.  7.  Fancy  Knots  and  Rope  Work.  128  pages.  150  original 
engravings.  Price 60  cents 

LATHE  WORK 


MODERN  AMERICAN  LATHE  PRACTICE.     By  OSCAR  E.  PERRIGO. 

This  is  a  new  book  from  cover  to  cover,  and  the  only  complete  American  work  on  the  subject 
written  by  a  man  who  knows  not  only  how  work  ought  to  be  done,  but  who  also  knows 
how  to  do  it,  and  how  to  convey  this  knowledge  to  others.  It  is  strictly  up-to-date  in  its 
descriptions  and  illustrations,  which  represent  the  very  latest  practice  in  lathe  and  boring 
mill  operations  as  well  as  the  construction  of  and  latest  developments  in  the  manufacture 
of  these  important  classes  of  machine  tools. 

Lathe  history  and  the  relations  of  the  Lathe  to  manufacturing  are  given ;  also  a  description 
of  the  various  devices  for  Feeds  and  Thread  Cutting  mechanisms  from  early  efforts  in  this 
direction  to  the  present  time.  Lathe  design  is  thoroughly  discussed,  including  Back  Gearing, 
Driving  Cones,  Thread  Cutting  Gears,  and  all  the  essential  elements  of  the  modern  Lathe. 
The  classification  of  Lathes  is  taken  up,  giving  the  essential  differences  of  the  several  types 
of  Lathes,  including,  as  is  usually  understood,  Engine  Lathes,  Bench  Lathes,  Speed  Lathes, 
Forge  Lathes,  Gap  Lathes,  Pulley  Lathes,  Forming  Lathes,  Multiple  Spindle  Lathes,  Rapid 
Reduction  Lathes,  Precision  Lathes,  Turret  Lathes,  Special  Lathes,  Electrically  Driven 
Lathes,  etc.  424  pages.  314  illustrations.  Price $2.50 

PRACTICAL   METAL  TURNING.     By  JOSEPH  G.  HOBNER. 

This  important  and  practical  subject  is  treated  in  a  full  and  exhaustive  manner  and  nothing 
of  importance  is  omitted.  The  principles  and  practice  and  all  the  different  branches  of  Turn- 
ing are  considered  and  well  illustrated.  All  the  different  kinds  of  Chucks  of  usual  forms,  as 
well  as  some  unusual  kinds,  are  shown.  A  feature  of  the  book  is  the  important  section  de- 
voted to  modern  Turret  practice;  Boring  is  another  subject  which  is  treated  fully;  and  the 
chapter  on  Tool  Holders  illustrates  a  large  number  of  representative  types.  Thread  Cutting 
is  treated  at  reasonable  length;  and  the  last  chapter  contains  a  good  deal  of  information 
relating  to  the  High-Speed  Steels  and  their  work.  The  numerous  tools  used  by  machinists 
are  illustrated,  and  also  the  adjuncts  of  the  lathe.  In  fact,  the  entire  subject  is  treated  in 
such  a  thorough  manner  as  to  make  this  book  the  standard  one  on  the  subject.  It  is  indis- 
pensable to  the  manager,  engineer,  and  machinist  as  well  as  to  the  student,  amateur,  and 
experimental,  man  who  desires  to  keep  up-to-date.  400  pages,  fully  illustrated.  Price  $3.50 

TURNING  AND  BORING  TAPERS.     By  FRED  H.  COLVIN. 

There  are  two  ways  to  turn  tapers;  the  right  way  and  one  other.  This  treatise  has  to  do  with 
the  right  wa,y;  it  tells  you  how  to  start  the  work  properly,  how  to  set  the  lathe,  what  tools  to 
use  and  how  to  use  them,  and  forty  and  one  other  little  things  that  you  should  know.  Fourth 
edition. 25  cents 


LIQUID  AIR  AND  THE  LIQUEFACTION  OF  GASES.     By  T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

This  book  gives  the  history  of  the  theory,  discovery,  and  manufacture  of  Liquid  Air,  and 

contains  an  illustrated  description  of  all  the  experiments  that  have  excited  the  wonder  of 

audiences   all  over  the  country.     It  shows  how  liquid  air,  like  water,  is  carried  hundreds  of 

miles  and  is  handled  in  open  buckets.     It  tells  what  may  be  expected  from  it  in  the  near 

future. 

A  book  that  renders  simple  one  of  the  most  perplexing  chemical  problems  of  the  century. 

Startling  developments  illustrated  by  actual  experiments. 

It  is  not  only  a  work  of  scientific  interest  and  authority,  but  is  intended  for  the  general  reader, 

being  written    in  a  popular  style — easily  understood  by  every  one.     Second  edition.     365 

pages.     Price $2.00 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 
LOCOMOTIVE  ENGINEERING 

AIR-BRAKE   CATECHISM.     By  ROBERT  H.  BLACKALL. 

This  book  is  a  standard  text  book.  It  covers  the  Westinghouse  Air-Brake  Equipment,  in- 
cluding the  No.  5  and  the  No.  6  E.  T  Locomotive  Brake  Equipment;  the  K  (Quick-Service) 
Triple  Valve  for  Freight  Service;  and  the  Cross-Compound  Pump.  The  operation  of  all  parts 
of  the  apparatus  is  explained  in  detail,  and  a  practical  way  of  rinding  their  peculiarities  and 
defects,  with  a  proper  remedy,  is  given.  It  contains  2,000  questions  with  their  answers, 
which  will  enable  any  railroad  man  to  pass  any  examination  on  the  subject  of  Air  Brakes. 
Endorsed  and  used  by  air-brake  instructors  and  examiners  on  nearly  every  railroad  in  the 
United  States.  25th  Edition.  350  pages,  fully  illustrated  with  folding  plates  and  dia- 
grams  $2.00 

AMERICAN    COMPOUND    LOCOMOTIVES.     By  FRED.  H.  COLVIN. 

The  only  book  on  compounds  for  the  engineman  or  shopman  that  shows  in  a  plain,  practical 
way  the  various  features  of  compound  locomotives  in  use.  Shows  how  they  are  made,  what 
to  do  when  they  break  down  or  balk.  Contains  sections  as  follows: — A  Bit  of  History.  The- 
ory of  Compounding  Steam  Cylinders.  Baldwin  Two-Cylinder  Compound.  Pittsburg  Two- 
Cylinder  Compound.  Rhode  Island  Compound.  Richmond  Compound.  Rogers  Compound. 
Schenectady  Two-Cylinder  Compound.  Vauclain  Compound.  Tandem  Compounds.  Bald- 
win Tandem.  The  Colvin-Wigntman  Tandem.  Schenectady  Tandem.  Balanced  Loco- 
motives. Baldwin  Balanced  Compound.  Plans  for  Balancing.  Locating  Blows.  Break- 
downs. Reducing  Valves.  Drifting.  Valve  Motion.  Disconnecting.  Power  of  Compound 
Locomotives.  Practical  Notes. 

Fully  illustrated  "and  containing  ten  special  "Duotone"  inserts  on  heavy  Plate  Paper,  show- 
ing different  types  of  Compounds.  142  pages.  Price $1.00 

APPLICATION  OF  HIGHLY  SUPERHEATED  STEAM  TO  LOCOMOTIVES.     By 

ROBERT  GARBE. 

A  practical  book.  Contains  special  chapters  on  Generation  of  Highly  Superheated  Steam; 
Superheated  bteam  and  the  Two-Cylinder  Simple  Engine;  Compounding  and  Superheating; 
Designs  ofj  Locomotive  Superheaters;  Constructive  Details  of  Locomotives  using  Highly 
Superheated  Steam;  Experimental  and  Working  Results.  Illustrated  with  folding  plates 
and  tables.  Price $2.50 

COMBUSTION  OF  COAL  AND  THE  PREVENTION  OF  SMOKE. 
By  WM.  M.  BARR. 

This  book  has  been  prepared  with  special  reference  to  the  generation  of  heat  by  the  combus- 
tion of  the  common  fuels  found  in  the  United  States,  and  deals  particularly  with  the  condi- 
tions necessary  to  the  economic  and  smokeless  combustion  of  bituminous  coal  in  Stationary 
and  Locomotive  Steam  Boilers. 

The  presentation  of  this  important  subject  is  systematic  and  progressive.  The  arrangement 
of  the  book  is  in  a  series  of  practical  questions  to  which  are  appended  accurate  answers, 
which  describe  in  language,  free  from  technicalities,  the  several  processes  involved  in  the 
furnace  combustion  of  American  fuels;  it  clearly  states  the  essential  requisites  for  perfect 
combustion,  and  points  out  the  best  methods  of  furnace  construction  for  obtaining  the 
greatest  quantity  of  heat  from  any  given  quality  of  coal.  Nearly  350  pages,  fully  illustrated. 
Price $1.00 

DIARY  OF  A  ROUND  HOUSE  FOREMAN.     By  T.  S.  REILLY    . 
This  is  the  greatest  book  of  railroad  experiences  ever  published.     Containing  a  fund  of  infor- 
mation and  suggestions  along  the  line  of  handling  men,  organizing,  etc. ,  that  one  cannot  afford 
to  miss.     176  pages.     Price $1.00 

LINK  MOTIONS,  VALVES  AND  VALVE  SETTING.  By  FRED  H.  COLVIN,  Associate 
Editor  of  "American  Machinist." 

A  handy  book  for  the  engineer  or  machinist  that  clears  up  the  mysteries  of  valve  setting. 
Shows  the  different  valve  gears  in  use,  how  they  work,  and  why.  Piston  and  slide  valves 
of  different  types  are  illustrated  and  explained.  A  book  that  every  railroad  man  in  the  mo- 
tive power  department  ought  to  have.  Contains  chapters  on  Locomotive  Link  Motion, 
Valve  Movements,  Setting  Slide  Valves,  Analysis  by  Diagrams,  Modern  Practice,  Slip  of 
Block,  Slide  Valves,  Piston  Valves,  Setting  Piston  Valves,  Joy-Allen  Valve  Gear,  Walschaert 
Valve  Gear,  Gooch  Valve  Gear,  Alfree-Hubbell  Valve  Gear,  etc.,  etc.  Fully  illustrated. 
Price  .  .  .  , 50  cents 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

LOCOMOTIVE   BOILER   CONSTRUCTION.     By  FEANK  A.  KLEINHANS. 

The  construction  of  boilers  in  general  is  treated,  and  following  this,  the  locomotive  boiler 
is  taken  up  in  the  order  in  which  its  various  parts  go  through  the  sh9p.  Shows  all  types  of 
boilers  used;  gives  details  of  construction;  practical  facts,  such  as  life  of  riveting,  punches 
and  dies ;  work  done  per  day,  allowance  for  bending  and  flanging  sheets,  and  other  data. 
Locomotive  boilers  present  more  difficulty  in  laying  out  and  building  than  any  other  type, 
and  for  this  reason  the  author  uses  them  as  examples.  Anyone  who  can  handle  them  can 
tackle  anything. 

Contains  chapters  on  Laying  Out  Work;  Flanging  and  Forging;  Punching;  Shearing;  Plate 
Planing;  General  Tables;  Finishing  Parts;  Bending;  Machinery  Parts;  Riveting;  Boiler 
Details;  Smoke  Box  Details;  Assembling  and  Calking;  Boiler  Shop  Machinery,  etc.,  etc. 
There  isn't  a  man  who  has  anything  to  do  with  boiler  work,  either  new  or  repair  work,  who 
doesn't  need  this  book.  The  manufacturer,  superintendent,  foreman,  and  boiler  worker — 
all  need  it.  No  matter  what  the  type  of  boiler,  you'll  find  a  mint  of  information  that  you 
wouldn't  be  without.  Over  400  pages,  five  large  folding  plates.  Price $3.00 

LOCOMOTIVE  BREAKDOWNS  AND  THEIR  REMEDIES.  By  GEO.  L.  FOWLER. 
Revised  by  WM.  W.  WOOD,  Air-Brake  Instructor.  Just  issued.  Revised  pocket 
edition. 

It  is  out  of  the  question  to  try  and  tell  you  about  every  subject  that  is  covered  in  this  pocket 
edition  of  Locomotive  Breakdowns.  Just  imagine  all  the  common  troubles  that  an  engineer 
may  expect  to  happen  some  time,  and  then  add  all  of  the  unexpected  ones,  troubles  that  could 
occur,  but  that  you  had  never  thought  about,  and  you  will  find  that  they  are  all  treated  with 
the  very  best  methods  of  repair.  Walschaert  Locomotive  Valve  Gear  Troubles,  Electric 
Headlight  Troubles,  as  well  as  Questions  and  Answers  on  the  Air  Brake  are  all  included.  294 
pages.  7th  Revised  Edition.  Fully  illustrated $1.0O 

LOCOMOTIVE   CATECHISM.     By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 

The  revised  edition  of  "Locomotive  Catechism,"  by  Robert  Grimshaw,  is  a  New  Book  from 
Cover  to  Cover.  It  contains  twice  as  many  pages  and  double  the  number  of  illustrations 
of  previous  editions.  Includes  the  greatest  amount  of  practical  information  ever  published 
on  the  construction  and  management  of  modern  locomotives.  Specially  Prepared  Chapters 
on  the  Walschaert  Locomotive  Valve  Gear,  the  Air  Brake  Equipment  and  the  Electric  Head 
Light  are  given. 

It  commends  itself  at  once  to  every  Engineer  and  Fireman,  and  to  all  who  are  going  in  for 
examination  or  promotion.  In  plain  language,  with  full  complete  answers,  not  only  all  the 
questions  asked  by  the  examining  engineer  are  given,  but  those  which  the  young  and  less 
experienced  would  ask  the  veteran,  and  which  old  hands  ask  as  "stickers."  It  is  a  veritable 
Encyclopedia  of  the  Locomotive,  is  entirely  free  from  mathematics,  easily  understood  and 
thoroughly  up-to-date.  Contains  over  4,000  Examination  Questions  with  their  Answers. 
825  pages,  437  illustrations  and  three  folding  plates.  28th  Revised  Edition.  .  .  $2.5O 

PRACTICAL  INSTRUCTOR  AND  REFERENCE  BOOK  FOR  LOCOMOTIVE 
FIREMEN  AND  ENGINEERS.  By  CHAS.  F.  LOCKHART. 

An  entirely  new  book  on  the  Locomotive.  It  appeals  to  every  railroad  man,  as  it  tells  him 
how  things  are  done  and  the  right  way  to  do  them.  Written  by  a  man  who  has  had  years 
of  practical  experience  in  locomotive  shops  and  on  the  road  firing  and  running.  The  infor- 
mation given  in  this  book  cannot  be  found  in  any  other  similar  treatise.  Eight  hundred  and 
fifty-one  questions  with  their  answers  are  included,  which  will  prove  specially  helpful  to 
those  preparing  for  examination.  Practical  information  on:  The  Construction  and  Opera- 
tion of  Locomotives.  Breakdowns  and  their  Remedies;  Air  Brakes  and  Valve  Gears. 
Rules  and  Signals  are  handled  in  a  thorough  manner.  As  a  book  of  reference  it  cannot  be 
excelled.  The  book  is  divided  into  six  parts,  as  follows:  1.  The  Fireman's  Duties.  2. 
General  description  of  the  Locomotive.  3.  Breakdowns  and  their  Remedies.  4.  Air  Brakes. 
5.  Extracts  from  Standard  Rules.  6.  Questions  for  examination.  The  851  questions  have 
been  carefully  selected  and  arranged.  These  cover  the  examinations  required  by  the  different 
railroads.  368  pages.  88  illustrations.  Price $1.50 

PREVENTION  OF  RAILROAD  ACCIDENTS,  OR  SAFETY  IN  RAILROADING. 

By  GEORGE  BRADSHAW. 

This  book  is  a  heart-to-heart  talk  with  Railroad  Employees,  dealing  with  facts,  not  theories, 
and  showing  the  men  in  the  ranks,  from  every-day  experience,  how  accidents  occur  and  how 
they  may  be  avoided.  The  book  is  illustrated  with  seventy  original  photographs  and  draw- 
ings showing  the  safe  and  unsafe  methods  of  work.  No  visionary  schemes,  no  ideal  pictures. 
Just  plain  facts  and  Practical  Suggestions  are  given.  Every  railroad  employee  who  reads  the 

18 


CATALOGUE  OF'  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

book  is  a  better  and  safer  man  to  have  in  railroad  service.  It  gives  just  the  information 
which  will  be  the  means  of  preventing  many  injuries  and  deaths.  All  railroad  employees 
should  procure  a  copy,  read  it,  and  do  your  part  in  preventing  accidents.  169  pages.  Pocket 
Size.  Fully  illustrated.  Price 50  cents 

TRAIN  RULE  EXAMINATIONS  MADE  EASY.     By  G.  E.  COLLINGWOOD. 

This  is  the  only  practical  work  on  train-rules  in  print.  Every  detail  is  covered,  and  puzzling 
points  are  explained  in  simple,  comprehensive  language,  making  it  a  practical  treatise  for 
the  Train  Dispatcher,  Engineman,  Trainman,  and  all  others  who  have  to  do  with  the  move- 
ments of  trains.  Contains  complete  and  reliable  information  of  the  Standard  Code  of  Train 
Rules  for  single  track.  Shows  Signals  in  Colors,  as  used  on  the  different  roads.  Explains 
fully  the  practical  application  of  train  orders,  giving  a  clear  and  definite  understanding  of  all 
orders  which  may  be  used.  The  meaning  and  necessity  for  certain  rules  are  explained  in 
such  a  manner  that  the  student  may  know  beyond  a  doubt  the  rights  conferred  under  any 
orders  he  may  receive  or  the  action  required  by  certain  rules. 

As  nearly  all  roads  require  trainmen  to  pass  regular  examinations,  a  complete  set  of  examina- 
tion questions,  with  their  answers,  are  included.  These  will  enable  the  student  to  pass  the 
required  examinations  with  credit  to  himself  and  the  road  for  which  he  works.  256  pages. 
Fully  illustrated  with  Train  Signals  in  colors.  Price $1.26 

TRAIN   RULES   AND   DESPATCHING.     By  H.  A.  DALBY. 

Every  railroad  man,  no  matter  what  department  he's  in,  needs  a  copy  of  this  book.  It  gives 
the  standard  rules  for  both  single  and  double  track,  shows  all  the  signals,  with  colors  wher- 
ever necessary,  and  has  a  list  of  towns  where  time  changes,  with  a  map  showing  the  whole 
country.  The  rules  are  explained  wherever  tkere  is  any  doubt  about  their  meaning  or  where 
they  are  modified  by  different  railroads.  It's  the  only  practical  book  on  train  rules  in  print. 
Over  220  pages.  Leather  cover.  Price $1.50 

THE  WALSCHAERT  AND  OTHER  MODERN  RADIAL  VALVE  GEARS  FOR 
LOCOMOTIVES.  By  WM.  W.  WOOD. 

If  you  would  thoroughly  understand  the  Walschaert  Valve  Gear  you  should  possess  a  copy 
of  this  book,  as  the  author  takes  the  plainest  form  of  a  steam  engine — a  stationary  engine  in 
the  rough,  that  will  only  turn  its  crank  in  one  direction — and  from  it  builds  up — with  the 
reader's  help — a  modern  locomotive  equipped  with  the  Walschaert  Valve  Gear,  complete. 
The  points  discussed  are  clearly  illustrated ;  two  large  folding  plates  that  show  the  positions 
of  the  valves  of  both  inside  or  outside  admission  type,  as  well  as  the  links  and  other  parts  of 
the  gear  when  the  crank  is  at  nine  different  points  in  its  revolution,  are  especially  valuable 
in  making  the  movement  clear.  These  employ  sliding  cardboard  models  which  are  contained 
in  a  pocket  in  the  cover. 

The  book  is  divided  into  five  general  divisions,  as  follows:  I.  Analysis  of  the  gear.  II.  De- 
signing and  erecting  the  gear.  III.  Advantages  of  the  gear.  IV.  Questions  and  answers 
relating  to  the  Walschaert  Valve  Gear.  V.  Setting  valves  with  the  Walschaert  Valve  Gear; 
the  three  primary  types  of  locomotive  valve  motion ;  modern  radial  valve  gears  other  than 
the  Walschaert ;  the  Hobart  All-free  valve  and  valve  gear,  with  questions  and  answers  on 
breakdowns;  the  Baker- Pilliod  valve  gear;  the  Improved  Baker- Pilliod  Valve  Gear,  with 
questions  and  answers  on  breakdowns. 

The  questions  with  full  answers  given  will  be  especially  valuable  to  firemen  and  engineers 
in  preparing  for  an  examination  for  promotion.  245  pages.  Third  Revised  Edition. 
Price $1.60 

WESTINGHOUSE  E— T  AIR-BRAKE  INSTRUCTION  POCKET  BOOK.      By  WM. 

W.  WOOD,  Air-Brake  Instructor. 

Here  is  a  book  for  the  railroad  man,  and  the  man  who  aims  to  be  one.  It  is  without  doubt 
the  only  complete  work  published  on  the  Westinghouse  E-T  Locomotive  Brake  Equipment. 
Written  by  an  Air  Brake  Instructor  who  knows  just  what  is  needed.  It  covers  the  subject 
thoroughly.  Everything  about  the  New  Westinghouse  Engine  and  Tender  Brake  Equip- 
ment, including  the  Standard  No.  5  and  the  Perfected  No.  6  Style  of  brake,  is  treated  in  de- 
tail. Written  in  plain  English  and  profusely  illustrated  with  Colored  Plates,  which  enable 
one  to  trace  the  flow  of  pressures  throughout  the  entire  equipment.  The  best  book  ever 
published  on  the  Air  Brake.  Equally  good  for  the  beginner  and  the  advanced  engineer. 
Will  pass  any  one  through  any  examinatipn.  It  informs  and  enlightens  you  on  every  point. 
Indispensable  to  every  engineman  and  trainman. 

Contains  examination  questions  and  answers  on  the  E-T  equipment.  Covering  what  the 
E-T  Brake  is.  How  it  should  be  operated.  What  to  do  when  defective.  Not  a  question  can 
be  asked  of  the  engineman  up  for  promotion  on  either  the  No.  5  or  the  No.  6  E-T  equipment 
that  is  not  asked  and  answered  in  the  book.  If  you  want  to  thoroughly  understand  the  E-T 
equipment  get  a  copy  of  this  book.  It  covers  every  detail.  Makes  Air  Brake  troubles  and 
examinations  easy.  Price $1.60 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


MACHINE   SHOP  PRACTICE 


AMERICAN  TOOL  MAKING  AND  INTERCHANGEABLE  MANUFACTURING.    By 

J.    V.   WOODWORTH. 

A  "shoppy"  book,  containing  no  theorizing,  no  problematical  or  experimental  devices,  there 
are  no  badly  proportioned  and  impossible  diagrams,  no  catalogue  cuts,  but  a  valuable  collec- 
tion of  drawings  and  descriptions  of  devices,  the  rich  fruits  of  the  author's  own  experience. 
In  its  500-odd  pages  the  one  subject  only,  Tool  Making,  and  whatever  relates  thereto,  is 
dealt  with.  The  work  stands  without  a  rival.  It  is  a  complete  practical  treatise  on  the 
art  of  American  Tool  Making  and  system  of  interchangeable  manufacturing  as  carried  on 
to-day  in  the  United  States.  In  it  are  described  and  illustrated  all  of  the  different  types 
and  classes  of  small  tools,  fixtures,  devices,  and  special  appliances  which  are  in  general  use 
in  all  machine  manufacturing  and  metal  working  establishments  where  economy,  capacity, 
and  interchangeability  in  the  production  of  machined  metal  parts  are  imperative.  The 
science  of  jig  making  is  exhaustively  discussed,  and  particular  attention  is  paid  to  drill  jigs, 
boring,  profiling  and  milling  fixtures  and  other  devices  in  which  the  parts  to  be  machined 
are  located  and  fastened  within  the  contrivances.  All  of  the  tools,  fixtures,  and  devices 
illustrated  and  described  have  been  or  are  used  for  the  actual  production  of  work,  such  as 
parts  of  drill  presses,  lathes,  patented  machinery,  typewriters,  electrical  apparatus,  mechan- 
ical appliances,  brass  goods,  composition  parts,  mould  products,  sheet  metal  articles,  drop 
forgings,  jewelry,  watches,  medals,  coins,  etc.  531  pages.  Price $4.00 

HENLEY'S  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  PRACTICAL  ENGINEERING  AND  ALLIED 
TRADES.  Edited  by  JOSEPH  G.  HORNER,  A.M.I.,  M.E. 

This  set  of  five  volumes  contains  about  2,500  pages  with  thousands  of  illustrations,  including 
diagrammatic  and  sectional  drawings  with  full  explanatory  details.  This  work  covers  the 
entire  practice  of  Civil  and  Mechanical  Engineering.  The  best  known  expert  in  all  branches 
of  engineering  have  contributed  to  these  volumes.  The  Cyclopedia  is  admirably  well  adapted 
to  the  needs  of  the  beginner  and  the  self-taught  practical  man,  as  well  as  the  mechanical  en- 
gineer, designer,  draftsman,  shop  superintendent,  foreman,  and  machinist.  The  work  will  be 
found  a  means  of  advancement  to  any  progressive  man.  It  is  encyclopedic  in  scope,  thorough 
and  practical  in  its  treatment  of  technical  subjects,  simple  and  clear  in  its  descriptive  matter, 
and  without  unnecessary  technicalities  or  formulae.  The  articles  are  as  brief  as  may  be  and 
vet  give  a  reasonably  clear  and  explicit  statement  of  the  subject,  and  are  written  by  men  who 
have  had  ample  practical  experience  in  the  matters  of  which  they  write.  It  tells  you  all  you 
want  to  know  about  engineering  and  tells  it  so  simply,  so  clearly,  so  concisely,  that  one  cannot 
help  but  understand.  As  a  work  of  reference  it  is  without  a  peer.  $6.00  per  volume.  For 
complete  set  of  five  volumes,  price $25.00 

MACHINE  SHOP  ARITHMETIC.     By  COLVIN-CHENEY. 

This  is  an  arithmetic  of  the  things  you  have  to  do  with  daily.  It  tells  you  plainly  about:  how 
to  find  areas  of  figures;  how  to  find  surface  or  volume  of  balls  or  spheres;  handy  ways  for 
calculating;  about  compound  gearing;  cutting  screw  threads  on  any  lathe;  drilling  for  taps; 
speeds  of  drills,  taps,  emery  wheels,  grindstones,  milling  cutters,  etc.;  all  about  the  Metric 
system  with  conversion  tables;  properties  of  metals;  strength  of  bolts  and  nuts;  decimal 
equivalent  of  an  inch.  All  sorts  of  machine  shop  figuring  and  1,001  other  things,  any  one  of 
which  ought  to  be  worth  more  than  the  price  of  this  book  to  you,  and  it  saves  you  the  trouble 
of  bothering  the  boss.  6th  Edition.  131  pages.  Price 50  cents 

MODERN  MACHINE  SHOP  CONSTRUCTION,  EQUIPMENT  AND  MANAGEMENT. 
By  OSCAR  E.  PERRIGO. 

The  only  work  published  that  describes  the  Modern  Machine  Shop  or  Manufacturing  Plant  from 
the  time  the  grass  is  growing  on  the  site  intended  for  it  until  the  finished  product  is  shipped. 
Just  the  book  needed  by  those  contemplating  the  erection  of  modern  shop  buildings,  the  re- 
building and  reorganization  of  old  ones,  or  the  introduction  of  Modern  Shop  Methods,  time  and 
cost  systems.  It  is  a  book  written  and  illustrated  by  a  practical  shop  man  for  practical  shop 
men  who  are  too  busy  to  read  theories  and  want  facts.  It  is  the  most  complete  all-around 
book  of  its  kind  ever  published.  400  large  quarto  pages.  225  original  and  specially-made 
illustrations.  Price $5.00 

MECHANICAL  APPLIANCES,  MECHANICAL  MOVEMENTS  AND  NOVELTIES 
OF  CONSTRUCTION.  By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

This  is  a  supplementary  volume  to  the  one  upon  mechanical  mpvements.  Unlike  the  first 
volume,  which  is  more  elementary  in  character,  this  volume  contains  illustrations  and  descrip- 
tions of  many  combinations  of  motions  and  of  mechanical  devices  and  appliances  found  in 
different. lines  of  machinery.  Each  device  being  shown  b.v  a  line  drawing  with  a  description 

2O 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


showing  its  working  parts  and  the  method  of  operation.  From  the  multitude  of  devices  de- 
scribed, and  illustrated,  might  be  mentioned,  in  passing,  such  items  as  conveyors  and  elevators, 
Prony  brakes,  thermometers,!  various  types  of  boilers,  solar  engines,  oil-fuel  burners,  condensers, 
evaporators,  Corliss  and  other  valve  gears,  governors,  gas  engines,  water  motors  of  various 
descriptions,  air  ships,  motors  and  dynamos,  automobile  and  motor  bicycles,  railway  block 
signals,  car  couplers,  link  and  gear  motions,  ball  bearings,  breech  block  mechanism  for  heavy 
guns,  and  a  large  accumulati9n  of  others  of  equal  importance.  1,000  specially  made  engrav- 
ings. 396  octavo  pages.  Price  $2.50 

MECHANICAL  MOVEMENTS,  POWERS,  AND  DEVICES.     By  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

This  is  a  collection  of  1,890  engravings  of  different  mechanical  motions  and  appliances,  accom- 
panied by  appropriate  text,  making  it  a  book  of  great  value  to  the  inventor,  the  draftsman, 
and  to  all  readers  with  mechanical  tastes.  The  book  is  divided  into  eighteen,  sections  or 
chapters  in  which  the  subject  matter  is  classified  under  the  following  heads:  Mechanical  Powers; 
Transmission  of  Power;  Measurement  of  Power,  Steam  Power;  Air  Power  Appliances ;  Electric 
Power  and  Construction,  Navigation  and  Roads;  Gearing;  Motion  and  Devices;  Controlling 
Motion;  Horological;  Mining;  Mill  and  Factory  Appliances;  Construction  and  Devices; 
Drafting  Devices:  Miscellaneous  Devices,  etc.  12th  edition,  400  octavo  pages.  Price  $2.50 

MACHINE    SHOP    TOOLS    AND    SHOP    PRACTICE.     By  W.  H.  VANDERVOORT. 

A  work  of  555  pages  and  673  illustrations,  describing  in  every  detail  the  construction,  operation, 
and  manipulation  of  both  hand  and  machine  tools.  Includes  chapters  on  filing,  fitting,  and 
scraping  surfaces;  on  drills,  reamers,  taps,  and  dies;  the  lathe  and  its  tools;  planers,  shapers, 
and  their  tools;  milling  machines  and  cutters;  gear  cutters  and  gear  cutting;  drilling  machines 
and  drill  work;  grinding  machines  and  their  work;  hardening  and  tempering;  gearing,  belting 
and  transmission  machinery:  useful  data  and  tables.  6th  edition.  Price  .  .  .  „  $3.00 

THE    MODERN    MACHINIST.     By  JOHN  T.  USHER. 

This  is  a  book  showing,  by  plain  description  and  by  profuse  engravings,  made  expressly  for 
the  work,  all  that  is  best,  most  advanced,  and  of  the  highest  efficiency  in  modern  machine 
shop  practice,  tools,  and  implements,  showing  the  way  by  which  and  through  which,  as  Mr. 
Maxim  says,  "American  machinists  have  become  and  are  the  finest  mechanics  hi  the  world." 
Indicating  as  it  does,  in  every  line,  the  familiarity  of  the  author  with  every  detail  of  daily 
experience  in  the  shop,  it  cannot  fail  to  be  of  service  to  any  man  practically  -connected  with 
the  shaping  or  finishing  of  metals. 

There  is  nothing  experimental  or  visionary  about  the  book,  all  devices  being  in  actual  use 
and  giving  good  results.  It  might  be  called  a  compendium  of  shop  methods,  shewing  a  vari- 
ety of  special  tools  and  appliances  which  will  give  new  ideas  to  many  mechanics,  from  the 
superintendent  down  to  the  man  at  the  bench.  It  will  be  found  a  valuable  addition  to  any 
machinist's  library,  and  should  be  consulted  whenever  a  new  or  difficult  job  is  to  be  done, 
whether  it  is  boring,  milling,  turning,  or  planing,  as  they  are  all  treated  in  a  practical  manner. 
Fifth  Edition.  320  pages.  250  illustrations.  Price  ...  ......  $2.5O 

MODERN  MILLING  MACHINES:  THEIR  DESIGN,  CONSTRUCTION  AND  OPERA- 
TION. By  JOSEPH  G.  HORNER. 

This  book  describes  and  illustrates  the  Milling  Machine  and  its  work  in  such  a  plain,  clear, 
and  forceful  manner,  and  illustrates  the  subject  so  clearly  and  completely,  that  the  up-to-date 
machinist,  student,  or  mechanical  engineer  cannot  afford  to  do  without  the  valuable  infor- 
mation which  it  contains.  It  describes  not  only  the  early  machines  of  this  class,  but  notes 
their  gradual  development  into  the  splendid  machines  of  the  present  day,  giving  the  design 
and  construction  of  the  various  types,  forms,  and  special  features  produced  by  prominent 
manufacturers,  American  and  foreign. 

Milling  cutters  in  all  their  development  and  modernized  forms  are  illustrated  and  described, 
and  the  operations  they  are  capable  of  producing  upon  different  classes  of  work  are  carefully 
described  in  detail,  and  the  speeds  and  feeds  necessary  are  discussed,  and  valuable  and  useful 
data  given  for  determining  these  usually  perplexing  problems.  The  book  is  the  most  compre- 
hensive work  published  on  the  subject.  304  pages.  300  illustrations.  Price  .  .  $4.00 

"  SHOP  KINKS."     By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 

A  book  of  400  pages  and  222  illustrations,  being  entirely  different  frcrcn  any  other  book  on 
machine  shop  practice.  Departing  frorn  conventional  style,  the  author  avpids  universal  or 
common  shop  usage  and  limits  his  work  to  showing  special  ways  of  doing  things  better,  m9re 
cheaply  and  more  rapidly  than  usual.  As  a  result  the  advanced  methods  of  representative 
establishments  of  the  world  are  placed  at  the  disposal  of  the  reader.  This  book  shows  the 
proprietor  where  large  savings  are  possible,  and  how  products  may  be  improved.  To  the 
employee  it  holds  out  suggestions  that,  properly  applied,  will  hasten  his  advancement.  No 
shop  can  afford  to  be  without  it.  It  bristles  with  valuable  wrinkles  and  helpful  suggestions. 
It  will  benefit  all,  from  apprentice  to  proprietor.  Every  machinist,  at  any  age,  should  study 
its  pages.  Fifth  Edition.  Price $2.50 

21 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

THREADS  AND  THREAD  CUTTING.     By  COLVIN  and  STABEL. 
This  clears  up   many  of  the  mysteries  of  thread-cutting,  such  as  double  and  triple  threads, 
internal  threads,  catching  threads,  use  of  hobs,  etc.     Contains  a  lot  of  useful  hints  and  several 
tables.     3rd  Edition.     Price 36  cents 

TOOLS  FOR  MACHINISTS  AND  WOOD  WORKERS,  INCLUDING  INSTRUMENTS 
OF  MEASUREMENT.  By  JOSEPH  G.  HORNER. 

The  principles  upon  which  cutting  tools  for  wood,  metal,  and  other  substances  are  made  are 
identical,  whether  used  by  the  machinist,  the  carpenter,  or  by  any  other  skilled  mechanic  in 
their  daily  work,  and  the  object  of  this  book  is  to  give  a  correct  and  practical  description  of 
these  tools  as  they  are  commonly  designed,  constructed,  and  used.  340  pages,  fully  illustrated. 
Price $3.50 

MANUAL   TRAINING 

ECONOMICS   OF   MANUAL   TRAINING.     By  Louis  ROUILLION. 

The  only  book  published  that  gives  just  the  information  needed  by  all  interested  in  Manual 
Training,  regarding  Buildings,  Equipment,  and  Supplies.  Shows  exactly  what  is  needed  for 
all  grades  of  the  work  from  the  Kindergarten  to  the  High  and  Normal  School.  Gives  item- 
ized lists  of  everything  used  in  Manual  Training  Work  and  tells  just  what  it  ought  to  cost. 
Also  shows  where  to  buy  supplies,  etc.  Contains  174  pages,  and  is  fully  illustrated. 
2nd  Edition.  Price $1.50 

MARINE  ENGINEERING 

MARINE  ENGINES  AND  BOILERS,  THEIR  DESIGN  AND  CONSTRUCTION.     By 

DR.  G.  BAUER,  LESLIE  S.  ROBERTSON,  and  S.  BRYAN  DONKIN. 

In  the  words  of  Dr.  Bauer,  the  present  work  owes  its  origin  to  an  oft  felt  want  of  a  Condensed 
Treatise,  embodying  the  Theoretical  and  Practical  Rules  used  in  Designing  Marine  Engines 
and  Boilers.  The  need  for  such  a  work  has  been  felt  by  most  engineers  engaged  in  the  con- 
struction and  working  of  Marine  Engines,  not  only  by  the  younger  men,  but  also  by  those  of 
greater  experience.  The  fact  that  the  original  German  work  was  written  by  the  chief  engineer 
of  the  famous  Vulcan  Works,  Stettin,  is  in  itself  a  guarantee  that  this  book  is  in  all  respects 
thoroughly  up-to-date,  and  that  it  embodies  all  the  information  which  is  necessary  for  the 
design  and  construction  of  the  highest  types  of  marine  engines  and  boilers.  It  may  be  said, 
that  the  motive  power  which  Dr.  Bauer  has  placed  in  the  fast  German  liners  that  have  been 
turned  out  of  late  years  from  the  Stettin  Works,  represent  the  very  best  practice  in  marine 
engineering  of  the  present  day. 

This  work  is  clearly  written,  thoroughly  systematic,  theoretically  sound;  while  the  character 
of  its  plans,  drawings,  tables,  and  statistics  is  without  reproach.  The  illustrations  are  care- 
ful reproductions  from  actual  working  drawings,  with  some  well-executed  photographic  views 
of  completed  engines  and  boilers.  744  pages.  550  illustrations  and  numerous  tables. 

$9.00  net 

MODERN  SUBMARINE  CHART. 

A  cross-section  view,  showing  clearly  and  distinctly  all  the  interior  of  a  Submarine  of  the 
latest  type.  You  get  more  information  from  this  chart,  about  the  construction  and  operation 
of  a  Submarine,  than  in  any  other  way.  No  Details  omitted — everything  is  accurate  and  to 
scale.  It  is  absolutely  correct  in  every  detail,  having  been  approved  by  Naval  Engineers. 
All  the  machinery  and  devices  fitted  in  a  modern  Submarine  Boat  are  shown  and  to  make  the 
engraving  more  readily  understood  all  the  features  are  shown  in  operative  form  with  Officers 
and  Men  in  the  act  of  performing  the  duties  assigned  to  them  in  service  conditions.  This 
CHART  IS  REALLY  AN  ENCYCLOPEDIA  OF  A  SUBMARINE.  It  is  educational 
and  worth  many  times  its  cost.  Mailed  in  a  Tube  for 25  cents 

MINING 

ORE  DEPOSITS,  WITH  A  CHAPTER  ON  HINTS  TO   PROSPECTORS.     By  J.  P. 

JOHNSON 

This  book  gives  a  condensed  account  of  the  ore-deposits  at  present  known  in  South  Africa. 
It  is  also  intended  as  a  guide  to  the  prospector.  Only  an  elementary  knowledge  of  geology 
and  some  mining  experience  are  necessary  in  order  to  understand  this  work.  With  these 
qualifications,  it  will  materially  assist  one  in  his  search  for  metalliferous  mineral  occurrences 

22 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS        

and,  so  far  as  simple  ores  are  concerned,  should  enable  one  to  form  some  idea  of  the  possi- 
bilities of  any  he  may  find. 

Among  the  chapters  given  are:  Titaniferous  and  Chromiferous  Iron  Oxides — Nickel — Cop- 
per— Cobalt — Tin — Molybdenum — Tungsten — Lead — Mercury — Antimony — Iron — Hints  to 
Prospectors $2.00 

PHYSICS   AND   CHEMISTRY   OF  MINING.     By  T.  H.  BYEOM. 

A  practical  work  for  the  use  of  all  preparing  for  examinations  in  mining  or  qualifying  for 
colliery  managers'  certificates.  The  aim  of  the  author  in  this  excellent  book  is  to  place  clearly 
before  the  reader  useful  and  authoritative  data  which  will  render  him  valuable  assistance  in 
his  studies.  The  only  work  of  its  kind  published.  The  information  incprporated  in  it  will 
prove  of  the  greatest  practical  utility  to  students,  mining  engineers,  colliery  managers,  and 
all  others  who  are  specially  interested  in  the  present-day  treatment  of  mining  problems. 
Among  its  contents  are  chapters  on:  The  Atmosphere;  Laws  Relating  to  the  Behavior  of 
Gases;  The  Diffusion  of  Gases;  Composition  of  the  Atmosphere:  Sundry  Constituents  of  the 
Atmosphere;  Water;  Carbon;  Fire-Damp ;  Combustion;  Coal  Dust  and  Its  Action;  Ex- 
plosives; Composition  of  Various  Coals  and  Fuels;  Methods  of  Analysis  of  Coal;  Strata  Ad- 
joining the  Coal  Measures;  Magnetism  and  Electricity;  Appendix;  Useful  Tables,  etc  ; 
Miscellaneous  Questions.  160  pages.  Illustrated $2.00 

PRACTICAL   COAL  MINING.     By  T.  H.  COCKIN. 

An  important  work,  containing  428  pages  and  213  illustrations,  complete  with  practical  de- 
tails, which  will  intuitively  impart  to  the  reader,  not  only  a  general  knowledge  of  the  princi- 
ples of  coal  mining,  but  also  considerable  insight  into  allied  subjects.  This  treatise  is  posi- 
tively up  to  date  in  every  instance,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of  every  colliery  engineer, 
geologist,  mine  operator,  superintendent,  foreman,  and  all  others  who  are  interested  in  or 
connected  with  the  industry.  2nd  Edition. .  $2.50 

PATTERN  MAKING 

PRACTICAL  PATTERN  MAKING.     By  F.  W.  BARROWS. 

This  is  a  very  complete  and  entirely  practical  treatise  on  the  subject  of  pattern  making,  illus- 
trating pattern  work  in  wood  and  metal.  From  its  pages  you  are  taught  just  what  you  should 
know  about  pattern  making.  It  contains  a  detailed  description  of  the  materials  used  by 
pattern  makers,  also  the  tools,  both  those  for  hand  use,  and  the  more  interesting  machine 
tools ;  having  complete  chapters  on  the  band  saw,  The  Buzz  Saw,  and  the  Lathe.  Individual 
patterns  of  many  different  kinds  are  fully  illustrated  and  described,  and  the  mounting  of 
metal  patterns  on  plates  for  molding  machines  is  included. 

Rules,  Formulas  and  Tables  are  included,  containing  simple  and  original  methods  for  finding 
the  weight  of  castings,  both  from  the  pattern  itself  and  from  the  drawings.  This  section 
contains  some  new  and  practical  formulas,  which  will  be  found  very  useful  in  estimating 
weights,  with  the  accuracy  required  for  quotations  to  prospective  customers.  All  of  these 
rules  are  simple,  and  can  be  put  to  practical  use  by  the  ordinary,  every-day  man,  and  they 
have  been  proved  by  years  of  actual  use. 

Plain  rules  for  keeping  down  the  cost  of  patterns,  with  a  complete  system  for  checking  the 
cost  of  and  marking  the  patterns,  and  a  card  record  showing  what  the  pattern  is,  material 
used,  where  located  in  safe,  with  its  cost  and  date  of  production,  is  included.  The  book  closes 
with  an  original  and  practical  method  for  the  inventory  and  valuation  of  patterns.  Con- 
taining 326  pages  and  150  detailed  illustrations.  Price $2.00 

'  PERFUMERY   \ 

HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RECEIPTS,  FORMULAS  AND  PRO- 

CESSES.     Edited  by  G.  D.  Hiscox. 

The  most  valuable  Techno-chemical  Receipt  Book  published.  Contains  over  10,000  practical 
receipts,  many  of  which  will  prove  of  special  value  to  the  perfumer,  a  mine  of  information,  up- 
to-date  in  every  respect.  Price,  Cloth,  $3.00;  half  morocco $4.00 

PERFUMES  AND  THEIR  PREPARATION.  By  G.  W.  ASKINSON,  Perfumer. 
A  comprehensive  treatise,  in  which  there  has  been  nothing  omitted  that  could  be  of  value 
to  the  Perfumer.  Complete  directions  for  making  handkerchief  perfumes,  smelling-salts, 
sachets,  fumigating  pastilles:  preparations  for  the  care  of  the  skin,  the  mouth,  the  hair,  cos- 
metics, hair  dyes  and  other  toilet  articles  are  given,  also  a  detailed  description  of  aromatic 
substances:  their  nature,  tests  of  purity,  and  wholesale  manufacture.  A  book  of  general, 
as  well  as  professional  interest,  meeting  the  wants  not  only  of  the  druggist  and  perfume  man- 
ufacturer, but;  also  Of  the  general  public.  Third  edition.  312  pages.  Illustrated.  .  $3.00 

23 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD.  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

PLUMBING 

MECHANICAL  DRAWING  FOR  PLUMBERS.  By  R.  M.  STARBUCK. 
A  concise,  comprehensive  and  practical  treatise  on  the  subject  of  mechanical  drawing  in  its 
various  modern  applications  to  the  work  of  all  who  are  in  any  way  connected  with  the 
plumbing  trade.  Nothing  will  so  help  the  plumber  in  estimating  and  in  explaining  work  to 
customers  and  workmen  as  a  knowledge  of  drawing,  and  to  the  workman  it  is  of  inestimable 
value  if  he  is  to  rise  above  his  position  to  positions  of  greater  responsibility.  Among  the 
chapters  contained  are:  1.  Value  to  plumber  of  knowledge  of  drawing;  tools  required 
and  their  use;  common  views  needed  in  mechanical  drawing.  2.  Perspective  versus  mechan- 
ical drawing  in  showing  plumbing  construction.  3.  Correct  and  incorrect  methods  in 
plumbing  drawing;  plan  and. elevation  explained.  3.  Floor  and  cellar  plans  and  elevation; 
scale  drawings;  use  of  triangles.  5.  Use  of  triangles;  drawing  of  fittings,  traps,  etc.  6. 
Drawing  plumbing  elevations  and  fittings.  7.  Instructions  in  drawing  plumbing  elevations. 
8.  The  drawing  of  plumbing  fixtures ;  scale  drawings.  9.  Drawing  of  fixtures  and  fittings. 
10.  Inking  of  drawings.  11.  Shading  of  drawings.  12.  Shading  of  drawings.  13.  Sec- 
tional drawings;  drawing  of  threads.  14.  Plumbing  elevations  from  architect's  plan. 
15.  Elevations  of  separate  parts  of  the  plumbing  system.  16.  Elevations  from  architect's 
plans.  '  17.  Drawing  of  detail  plumbing  connections.  18.  Architect's  plans  and  plumbing 
elevations  of  residence.  19.  Plumbing  elevations  of  residence  (continued) ;  plumbing  plans 
for  cottage.  20.  Plumbing  elevations;  roof  connections.  21.  Plans  and  plumbing  eleva- 
tions for  six-flat  building.  22.  Drawing  of  various  parts  of  the  plumbing  system;  use  of 
scales.  23.  Use  of  architect's  scales.  24.  Special  features  in  the  illustrations  of  country 
plumbing.  25.  Drawing  of  wrought  iron  piping,  valves,  radiators,  coils,  etc.  26.  Drawing 
of  piping  to  illustrate  heating  systems.  150  illustrations.  Price $1.50 

MODERN  PLUMBING  ILLUSTRATED.     By  R.  M.  STARBUCK. 

This  book  represents  the  highest  standard  of  plumbing  work.    It  has  been  adopted  and  used 

as  a  reference  book  by  the  United  States  Government,  in  its  sanitary  work  in  Cuba,  Porto 

Rico,  and  the  Philippines,  and  by  the  principal  Boards  of  Health  of  the  United  States  and 

Canada. 

It  gives  connections,  sizes  and  working  data  for  all  fixtures  and  groups  of  fixtures.    It  is 

helpful  to  the  master  plumber  in  demonstrating  to  his  customers  and  in  figuring  work.  It 

fives  the  mechanic  and  student  quick  and  easy  access  to  the  best  modern  plumbing  practice, 
uggestions  for  estimating  plumbing  construction  are  contained  in  its  pages.  This  book 
represents,  in  a  word,  the  latest  and  best  up-to-date  practice,  and  should  be  in  the  hands  of 
every  architect,  sanitary  engineer  and  plumber  who  wishes  to  keep  himself  up  to  the  minute 
on  this  important  feature  of  construction.  Contains  following  chapters,  each  illustrated 
with  a  full-page  plate:  Kitchen  sink,  laundry  tubs,  vegetable  wash  sink;  lavatories, 
pantry  sinks,  contents  of  marble  slabs;  bath  tub,  foot  and  sitz  bath,  shower  bath;  water 
closets,  venting  of  water  closets;  low-down  water  closets,  water  closets  operated  by  flush 
valves,  water  closet  range;  slop  sink,  urinals,  the  bidet;  hotel  and  restaurant  sink,  grease 
trap;  refrigerators,  safe  wastes,  laundry  waste;  lines  of  refrigerators,  bar  sinks,  soda  foun- 
tain sinks;  horse  stall,  frost-proof  water  closets;  connections  for  S  traps,  venting;  con- 
nections for  drum  traps;  soil  pipe  connections;  supporting  of  soil  pipe;  main  trap  and 
fresh  air  inlet;  floor  drains  and  cellar  drains,  subsoil  drainage;  water  closets  and  floor 
connections;  local  venting;  connections  for  bath  rooms ;  connections  for  bath  rooms,  con- 
tinued; connections  for  bath  rooms,  continued;  connections  for  bath  rooms,  continued; 
examples  of  poor  practice;  roughing- work  ready  for  test;  testing  of  plumbing  system; 
method  of  continuous  venting;  continuous  venting  for  two-floor  work ;  continuous  venting 
for  two  lines  of  fixtures  on  three  or  more  floors;  continuous  venting  of  water  closets;  plumb- 
ing for  cottage  house;  construction  for  cellar  piping;  plumbing  for  residence,  use  of  special 
fittings;  plumbing  for  two-flat  house;  plumbing  for  apartment  building;  plumbing  for 
double  apartment  building;  plumbing  for  office  building;  plumbing  for  public  toilet  rooms; 
plumbing  for  public  toilet  rooms,  continued;  plumbing  for  bath  establishment;  plumbing 
for  engine  house,  factory  plumbing;  automatic  flushing  for  schools,  factories,  etc.;  use  of 
flushing  valves;  urinals  for  public  toilet  rooms;  the  Durham  system,  the  destruction  of 
pipes  by  electrolysis;  construction  of  work  without  use  of  lead;  Automatic  sewage  lift, 
automatic  sump  tank;  country  plumbing;  construction  of  cesspools;  septic  tank  and  auto- 
matic sewage  siphon;  country  plumbing;  water  supply  for  country  house;  thawing  of 
water  mains  and  service  by  electricity;  double  boilers;  hot  water  supply  of  large  build- 
ings; automatic  control  of  hot  water  tank;  suggestions  for  estimating  plumbing  construc- 
tion. 400  octavo  pages,  fully  illustrated  by  55  full-page  engravings.  Price  .  $4.00 

STANDARD  PRACTICAL  PLUMBING.     By  R.  M.  STARBUCK. 

A  complete  practical  treatise  of  450  pages  covering  the  subject  of  Modern  Plumbing 
in  all  its  branches,  a  large  amount  of  space  being  devoted  to  a  very  complete  and  practical 
treatment  of  the  subject  of  Hot  Water  Supply  and  Circulation  and  Range  Boiler  Work. 
Its  thirty  chapters  include  about  every  phase  of  the  subject  one  can  think  of,  making  it 

:  24 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

an  indispensable  work  to  the  master  plumber,  the  journeyman  plumber,  and  the  apprentice 
plumber,  containing  chapters  on:  the  plumber's  tools;  wiping  solder,  composition  and  use; 
joint  wiping;  lead  woru;  traps;  siphonage  of  traps;  venting;  continuous  venting;  house 
sewer  and  sewer  connections;  house  drain;  soil  piping,  roughing;  main  trap  and  fresh  air 
inlet;  floor,  yard,  cellar  drains,  rain  leaders,  etc. ;  fixture  wastes :  water  closets ;  ventilation; 
improved  plumbing  connections;  residence  plumbing;  plumbing  for  hotels,  schools,  fac- 
tories, stables,  etc.;  modern  country  plumbing;  filtration  of  sewage  and  water  supply; 
hot  and  cold  supply;  range  boilers;  circulation;  circulating  pipes;  range  boiler  problems; 
hot  water  for  large  buildings;  water  lift  and  its  use;  multiple  connections  for  hot  water 
boilers;  heating  of  radiation  by  supply  system;  theory  for  the  plumber;  drawing  for  the 
plumber.  Fully  illustrated  by  347  engravings.  Price $3.00 

RECEIPT   BOOK 

HENLEY'S  TWENTIETH  CENTURY  BOOK  OF  RECEIPTS,  FORMULAS  AND  PRO- 
CESSES. Edited  by  GARDNER  D.  Hiscox. 

The  most  valuable  Techno-chemical  Receipt  Book  published,  including  over  10,000  selected 
scientific,  chemical,  technological,  and  practical  receipts  and  processes. 
This  is  the  most  complete  Book  of  Receipts  ever  published,  giving  thousands  of  receipts  for 
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tells  thousands  of  ways  of  making  money  and  is  just  the  book  everyone  should  have  at  his 
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Modern  in  its  treatment  of  every  subject  that  properly  falls  within  its  scope,  the  book  may 
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and  to  retain  those  processes  which  long  experience  has  proven  worthy  of  a  permanent  record. 
To  present  here  even  a  limited  number  of  the  subjects  which  find  a  place  in  this  valuable 
work  would  be  difficult.  Suffice  to  say  that  in  its  pages  will  be  found  matter  of  intense  in- 
terest and  immeasurable  practical  value  to  the  scientific  amateur  and  to  him  who  wishes  to 
obtain  a  knowledge  of  the  many  processes  used  in  the  arts,  trades  and  manufactures,  a 
knowledge  which  will  render  his  pursuits  moro  instructive  and  remunerative.  Serving  as  a 
reference  book  to  the  small  and  large  manufacturer  and  suppplying  intelligent  seekers  with 
the  information  necessary  to  conduct  a  process,  the  work  will  be  found  of  inestimable  worth 
to  the  Metallurgist,  the  Photographer,  the  Perfumer,  the  Painter,  the  Manufacturer  of 
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the  Druggist,  the  Electrician,  the  Brewer,  the  Engineer,  the  Foundryman,  the  Machinist, 
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the  Engraver,  the  Provisioner,  the  Glass  'Arorker,  the  Goldbeater,  the  Watchmaker,  the  Jew- 
eler, the  Hat  Maker,  the  Ink  Manufacturer,  the  Optician,  the  Farmer,  the  Dairyman,  the 
Paper  Maker,  the  Wood  and  Metal  Worker,  the  Chandler  and  Soap  Maker,  the  Veterinary 
Surgeon,  and  the  Technologist  in  general. 

A  mine  of  information,  and  up-to-date  in  every  respect.  A  book  which  will  prove  of  value 
to  EVERYONE,  as  it  covers  every  branch  of  the  Useful  Arts.  800  pages.  Price  $3.00 

WHAT    IS    SAID    OF    THIS    BOOK: 

"  Your  Twentieth  Century  Book  of  Receipts,  Formulas  and  Processes  duly  received.  I  am 
glad  to  have  a  copy  of  it,  and  if  I  could  not  replace  it  money  couldn't  buy  it.  It  is  the  best 
thing  of  the  sort  I  ever  saw."  (Signed)  M.  E.  TRUX, 

Sparta,  Wis. 

"  There  are  few  persons  who  would  not  be  able  to  find  in  the  book  some  single  formula  that 
would  repay  several  times  the  cost  of  the  book." — Merchant's  Record  and  Show  Window. 

RUBBER 

RUBBER  HAND  STAMPS  AND  THE  MANIPULATION  OF  INDIA  RUBBER.  By 
T.  O'CoNOR  SLOANE. 

This  book  gives  full  details  on  all  points,  treating  in  a  concise  and  simple  manner  the  elements 
of  nearly  everything  it  is  necessary  to  understand  for  a  commencement  in  any  branch  of  the 
India  Rubber  Manufacture.  The  making  of  all  kinds  of  Rubber  Hand  Stamps,  Small  Articles 
of  India  Rubber,  U.  S.  Government  Composition,  Dating  Hand  Stamps,  the  Manipulation 
of  Sheet  Rubber,  Toy  Balloons,  India  Rubber  Solutions,  Cements,  Blackings,  Renovating 

25 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

Varnish,  and  Treatment  for  India  Rubber  Shoes,  etc.;  the  Hektograph  Stamp  Inks  and 
Miscellaneous  Notes,  with  a  Short  Account  9f  the  Discovery,  Collection,  and  Manufacture  of 
India  Rubber  are  set  forth  in  a  manner  designed  to  be  readily  understood,  the  explanations 
being  plain  and  simple.  Including  a  chapter  on  Rubber  Tire  Making  and  Vulcanizing-  also  a 
chapter  on  the  uses  of  rubber  in  Surgery  and  Dentistry.  Third  revised  and  enlarged  edition. 
175  pages.  Illustrated $1.00 

SAWS 

SAW  FILINGS  AND  MANAGEMENT  OF  SAWS.     By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 

A  practical  hand  book  on  filing,  gumming,  swaging,  hammering,  and  the  brazing  of  band  saws, 
the  speed,  work,  and  power  to  run  circular  saws,  etc.  A  handy  book  for  those  who  have  charge 
of  saws,  or  for  those  mechanics  who  do  their  own  filing,  as  it  deals  with  the  proper  shape  and 
pitches  of  saw  teeth  of  all  kinds  and  gives  many  useful  hints  and  rules  for  gumming,  setting, 
and  filing,  and  is  a  practical  aid  to  those  who  use  saws  for  any  purpose.  New  edition,  revised 
and  enlarged.  Illustrated.  Price $1.00 

STEAM  ENGINEERING 


AMERICAN   STATIONARY   ENGINEERING.     By  W.  E.  CRANE. 

This  book  begins  at  the  boiler  room  and  takes  in  the  whole  power  plant.  A  plain  talk  on 
eyery-day  work  about  engines,  boilers,  and  their  accessories.  It  is  not  intended  to  be  scien- 
tific or  mathematical.  All  formulas  are  in  simple  form  so  that  any  one  understanding  plain 
arithmetic  can  readily  understand  any  of  them.  The  author  has  made  this  the  most  prac- 
tical book  in  print;  has  given  the  results  of  his  years  of  experience,  and  has  included  about 
all  that  has  to  do  with  an  engine  room  or  a  power  plant.  You  are  not  left  to  guess  at  a  single 
point.  You  are  shown  clearly  what  to  expect  under  the  various  conditions ;  how  to  secure 
the  best  results;  ways  of  preventing  "shut  downs"  and  repairs;  in  short,  all  that  goes  to 
make  up  the  requirements  of  a  good  engineer,  capable  of  taking  charge  of  a  plant.  It's  plain 
enough  for  practical  men  and  yet  of  value  to  those  high  in  the  profession. 
A  partial  list  of  contents  is:  The  boiler  room,  cleaning  boilers,  firing,  feeding;  pumps; 
inspection  and  repair;  chimneys,  sizes  and  cost;  piping;  mason  work;  foundations;  testing 
cement;  pile  driving;  engines,  slow  and  high  speed ;  valves;  valve  setting ;  Corliss  engines, 
setting  valves,  single  and  double  eccentric;  air  pumps  and  condensers;  different  types  of 
condensers;  water  needed;  lining  up;  pounds;  pins  not  square  in  crosshead  or  crank; 
engineers' tools;  pistons  and  piston  rings ;  bearing  metal ;  hardened  copper ;  drip  pipes  from 
cylinder  jackets;  belts,  how  made,  care  of;  oils;  greases;  testing  lubricants;  rules  and 
tables,  including  steam  tables;  areas  of  segments;  squares  and  square  root;  cubes  and  cube 
root;  areas  and  circumferences  of  circles.  Notes  on:  Brick  work;  explosions;  pumps; 
pump  valves;  heaters,  economizers;  safety  valves ;  lap,  lead,  and  clearance.  Has  a  complete 
examination  for  a  license,  etc.,  etc.  Secotfd  edition.  285  pages.  Illustrated.  Price  .  $2.00 

EMINENT  ENGINEERS.     By  DWIGHT  GODDAKD. 

Everyone  who  appreciates  the  effect  of  such  great  inventions  as  the  Steam  Engine,  Steamboat, 
Locomotive,  Sewing  Machine,  Steel  Working,  and  other  fundamental  discoveries,  is  interested 
in  knowing  a  little  about  the  men  who  made  them  and  their  achievements. 
Mr.  Goddard  has  selected  thirty-two  of  the  world's  engineers  who  have  contributed  most 
largely  to  the  advancement  of  our  civilization  by  mechanical  means,  giving  only  such  facts  as 
are  of  general  interest  and  in  a  way  which  appeals  to  all,  whether  mechanics  or  not.  280 
pages.  35  illustrations.  Price $1.50 

ENGINE  RUNNER'S  CATECHISM.     By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 

A  practical  treatise  for  the  stationary  engineer,  telling  how  to  erect,  adjust  and  run  the  prin- 
cipal steam  engines  in  use  in  the  United  States.  Describing  the  principal  features  of  various 
special  and  well-known  makes  of  engines:  Temper  Cut-off,  Shipping  and  Receiving  Founda- 
tions, Erecting  and  Starting,  Valve  Setting,  Care  and  Use,  Emergencies,  Erecting  and  Ad- 
justing Special  Engines. 

The  questions  asked  throughout  the  catechism  are  plain  and  to  the  point,  and  the  answers 
are  given  in  such  simple  language  as  to  be  readily  understood  by  anyone.  All  the  instructions 
given  are  complete  and  up-to-date;  and  they  are  written  in  a  popular  style,  without  any 
technicalities  or  mathematical  formulae.  The  work  is  of  a  handy  size  for  the  pocket,  clearly 
and  well  printed,  nicely  bound,  and  profusely  illustrated.  To  young  engineers  this  catechism 

26 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 

will  be  of  great  value,  especially  to  ihose  whu  may  be  preparing  to  go  forward  to  be  examined 
for  certifi  ates  of  competency;  and  to  engineers  generally  it  will  be  of  no  little  service,  as  they 
will  find  in  this  volume  more  really  practical  and  useful  information  than  is  to  be  found  any- 
where else  within  a  like  compass.  387  pages.  Seventh  edition.  Price  ....  $2.00 

ENGINE  TESTS   AND  BOILER   EFFICIENCIES.     By  J.  BUCHETTI. 
This  work  fully  describes  and   illustrates  the  method  of  testing  the  power  of  steam  engines, 
turbines  and  explosive  motors.      The  properties  of  steam  and  the  evaporative  power  of  fuels. 
Combustion  of  fuel  and  chimney  draft;    with  formulas  explained  or  practically  computed 
255  pages,  179  illustrations $3.00 

HORSEPOWER  CHART. 

Shows  the  horsepower  of  any  stationary  engine  without  calculation.  No  matter  what  the 
cylinder  diameter  of  stroke;  the  steam  pressure  or  cut  off;  the  revolutions,  or  whether  con- 
densing or  non-condensing,  it's  all  there.  Easy  to  use,  accurate,  and  saves  time  and  calcu- 
lations. Especially  useful  to  engineers  and  designers 60  cents 

MODERN  STEAM  ENGINEERING  IN  THEORY  AND  PRACTICE.  By  GARDNER 
D.  Hiscox. 

This  is  a  complete  and  practical  work  issued  for  Stationary  Engineers  and  firemen  dealing 
with  the  care  and  management  of  boilers,  engines,  pumps,  superheated  steam,  refrigerating 
machinery,  dynamos,  motors,  elevators,  air  compressors,  and  all  other  branches  with  which 
the  modern  engineer  must  be  familiar.  Nearly  200  questions  with  their  answers  on  steam 
and  electrical  engineering,  likely  to  be  asked  by  the  Examining  Board,  are  included. 
Among  the  chapters  are:  Historical;  steam  and  its  properties;  appliances  for  the  genera- 
tion of  steam;  types  of  boilers;  chimney  and  its  work;  heat  economy  of  the  feed  water; 
steam  pumps  and  their  work;  incrustation  and  its  work;  steam  above  atmospheric  pressure; 
flow  of  steam  from  nozzles;  superheated  steam  and  its  work;  adiabatic  expansion  of  steam; 
indicator  and  its  work;  steam  engine  proportions;  slide  valve  engines  and  valve  motion; 
Corliss  engine  and  its  valve  gear;  compound  engine  and  its  theory;  triple  and  multiple 
expansion  engine,  steam  turbine;  refrigeration;  elevators  and  their  management;  cost 
of  power;  steam  engine  troubles;  electric  power  and  electric  plants.  487  pages.  405  en- 
gravings. Price .  $3.00 

STEAM   ENGINE   CATECHISM.     By  ROBERT  GRIMSHAW. 

This  unique  volume  of  413  pages  is  not  only  a  catechism  on  the  question  and  answer  princi- 
ple; but  it  contains  formulas  and  worked-out  answers  for  all  the  Steam  problems  that  apper- 
tain to  the  operation  and  management  of  the  Steam  Engine.  Illustrations  of  various  valves 
and  valve  gear  with  their  principles  of  operation  are  given.  Thirty-four  Tables  that  are 
indispensable  to  every  engineer  and  fireman  that  wishes  to  be  progressive  and  is  ambitious  to 
become  master  of  his  calling  are  within  its  pages.  It  is  a  most  valuable  instructor  in  the 
service  of  Steam  Engineering.  Leading  engineers  have  recommended  it  as  a  valuable  educa- 
tor for  the  beginner  as  well  as  a  reference  book  for  the  engineer.  It  is  thoroughly  indexed 
for  every  detail.  Every  essential  question  on  the  Steam  Engine  with  its  answer  is  contained 
in  this  valuable  work.  Sixteenth  edition.  Price $2.00 

STEAM  ENGINEER'S  ARITHMETIC.     By  COLVIN-CHENEY. 

A  practical  pocket  book  for  the  steam  engineer.  Shows  how  to  work  the  problems  of  the 
engine  room  and  shows  "why."  Tells  how  to  figure  horse-power  of  engines  and  boilers;  area 
of  boilers ;  has  tables  of  areas  and  circumferences ;  steam  tables ;  has  a  dictionary  of  engineering 
terms.  Puts  you  on  to  all  all  of  the  little  kinks  in  figuring  whatever  there  is  to  figure  around 
a  P9wer  plant.  Tells  you  about  the  heat  unit;  absolute  zero;  adiabatic  expansion;  duty  of 
engines;  factor  of  safety;  and  1,001  other  things;  and  everything  is  plain  and  simple — not 
the  hardest  way  to  figure,  but  the  easiest.  2nd  Edition 50  cents 

STEAM   HEATING   AND    VENTILATION 

PRACTICAL  STEAM,  HOT- WATER  HEATING  AND  VENTILATION.  By  A.  G. 
KING. 

This  book  is  the  standard  and  latest  work  published  on  the  subject  and  has  been  prepared  for 
the  use  of  all  engaged  in  the  business  of  steam,  hot  water  heating,  and  ventilation.  It  is  an 
original  and  exhaustive  work.  Tells  how  to  get  heating  contracts,  how  to  install  heating  and 
ventilating  apparatus,  the  best  business  methods  to  be  used,  with  "Tricks  of  the  Trade"  for 

27 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


shop  use.  Rules  and  data  for  estimating  radiation  and  cost  and  such  tables  and  information 
as  make  it  an  indispensable  work  for  everyone  interested  in  steam,  hot  water  heating,  and  venti- 
lation. It  describes  all  the  principal  systems  of  steam,  hot  water,  vacuum,  vapor,  and  vacuum- 
vapor  heating,  together  with  the  new  accelerated  systems  of  hot  water  circulation,  including 
chapters  on  up-to-date  methods  of  ventilation  and  the  fan  or  blower  system  of  heating  and 
ventilation.  Containing  chapters  on:  I.  Introduction.  II.  Heat.  III.  Evolution  of 
artificial  heating  apparatus.  IV.  Boiler  surface  and  settings.  V.  The  chimney  flue  VI 
Pipe  and  fittings.  VII.  Valves,  various  kinds.  VIII.  Forms  of  radiating  surfaces.  IX. 
Locating  of  radiating  surfaces.  X.  Estimating  radiation.  XI.  Steam-heating  apparatus 
XII.  Exhaust-steam  heating.  XIII.  Hot-water  heating.  XIV.  Pressure  systems  of  hot- 
water  work.  XV.  Hot- water  appliances.  XVI.  Greenhouse  heating.  XVII.  Vacuum 
vapor  and  vacuum  exhaust  heating.  XVIII.  Miscellaneous  heating.  XIX.  Radiator  and 
pipe  connections.  XX.  Ventilation.  XXI.  Mechanical  ventilation  and  hot-blast  heating. 
XXII.  Steam  appliances.  XXIII.  District  heating.  XXIV.  Pipe  and  boiler  covering 
XXV.  Temperature  regulation  and  heat  control.  XXVI.  Business  methods.  XXVII. 
Miscellaneous.  XXVIII.  Rules,  tables  and  useful  information.  367  pages.  300  detailed 
engravings.  Price $3.00 

STEAM  PIPES 


STEAM   PIPES:  THEIR   DESIGN    AND   CONSTRUCTION.     By   WM.  H.  BOOTH. 

The  work  is  well  illustrated  in  regard  to  pipe  joints,  expansion  offsets,  flexible  joints,  and 
self-contained  sliding  joints  for  taking  up  the  expansion  of  long  pipes.  In  fact,  the  chapters 
on  the  flow  of  steam  and  expansion  of  pipes  are  most  valuable  to  all  steam  fitters  and  users. 
The  pressure  strength  of  pipes  and  method  of  hanging  them  are  well  treated  and  illustrated. 
Valves  and  by-passes  are  fully  illustrated  and  described,  as  are  also  flange  joints  and  their 
proper  proportions,  exhaust  heads  and  separators.  One  of  the  most  valuable  chanters  is  that 
on  superheated  steam  and  the  saving  of  steam  by  insulation  with  the  various  kinds  of  felt- 
ing and  other  materials  with  comparison  tables  of  the  loss  of  heat  in  thermal  units  from  naked 
and  felted  steam  pipes.  Contains  187  pages.  Price $2.00 

STEEL 

AMERICAN  STEEL  WORKER.     By  E.  R.  MAKKHAM. 

This  book  tells  how  to  select,  and  how  to  work,  temper,  harden,  and  anneal  steel  for  everything 
on  earth.  It  doesn't  tell  how  to  temper  one  class  of  tools  and  then  leave  the  treatment  of 
another  kind  of  tool  to  your  imagination  and  judgment,  but  it  gives  careful  instructions  for 
every  detail  of  every  tool,  whether  it  be  a  tap,  a  reamer  or  just  a  screw-driver.  It  tells  about 
the  tempering  of  small  watch  springs,  the  hardening  of  cutlery,  and  the  annealing  of  dies.  In 
fact  there  isn't  a  thing  that  a  steel  worker  would  want  to  know  that  isn't  included.  It  is  the 
standard  book  on  selecting,  hardening,  and  tempering  all  grades  of  steel.  Among  the 
chapter  headings  might  be  mentioned  the  following  subjects :  Introduction ;  the  workman ; 
steel;  methods  of  heating;  heating  tool  steel;  forging;  annealing;  hardening  baths;  baths 
for  hardening;  hardening  steel;  drawing  the  temper  after  hardening;  examples  of  hard- 
ening; pack  hardening;  case  hardening;  spring  tempering;  making  tools  of  machine  steel; 
special  steels;  steel  for  various  tools;  causes  of  trouble;  high  speed  steels,  etc.  366  pages. 
Very  fully  illustrated.  3rd  Edition.  Price $2.50 

HARDENING,  TEMPERING,  ANNEALING,  AND  FORGING  OF  STEEL.   By  J.  V. 

WOODWORTH. 

A  new  work  treating  in  a  clear,  concise  manner  all  modern  processes  for  the  heating,  annealing 
forging,  welding,  hardening,  and  tempering  of  steel,  making  it  a  book  of  great  practical  value 
to  the  metal-working  mechanic  in  general,  with  special  directions  for  the  successful  hardening 
and  tempering  of  all  steel  tools  used  in  the  arts,  including  milling  cutters,  taps,  thread  dies, 
reamers,  both  solid  and  shell,  hollow  mills,  punches  and  dies,  and  all  kinds  of  sheet  metal 
working  tools,  shear  blades,  saws,  fine  cutlery,  and  metal  cutting  tools  of  all  description,  as 
well  as  for  all  implements  of  steel  both  large  and  small.  In  this  work  the  simplest  and  most 
satisfactory  hardening  and  tempering  processes  are  given. 

The  uses  to  which  the  leading  brands  of  steel  may  be  adapted  are  concisely  presented,  and  their 
treatment  for  working  under  different  conditions  explained,  also  the  special  methods  for  the 
hardening  and  tempering  of  special  brands. 

A  chapter  devoted  to  the  different  processes  for  Case-hardening  is  also  included,  and  special 
reference  made  to  the  adoption  of  machinery  steel  for  tools  of  various  kinds.  4th  Edition.  288 
201  Illustrations.  Price  $2.50 

28 


CATALOGUE  OF  GOOD,  PRACTICAL  BOOKS 


TURBINES 

MARINE  STEAM  TURBINES.  By  DR.  G.  BAUER  and  O.  LASCHE.  Assisted  by 
E.  Ludwig  and  H.  Vogel.  Translated  from  the  German  and  edited  by  M.  G.  S. 
Swallow. 

This  work  forms  a  supplementary  volume  to  the  book  entitled  "Marine  Engines  and  Boilers." 
The  authors  of  this  book,  Dr.  G.  Bauer  and  O.  Lasche,  may  be  regarded  as  the  leading 
authorities  on  turbine  construction. 

The  book  is  essentially  practical  and  discusses  turbines  in  which  the  full  expansion  of  steam 
passes  through  a  number  of  separate  turbines  arranged  for  driving  two  or  more  shafts,  as 
in  the  Parsons  system,  and  turbines  in  which  the  complete  expansion  of  steam  from  inlet 
to  exhaust  pressure  occurs  in  a  turbine  on  one  shaft,  as  in  the  case  of  the  Curtis  machines. 
It  will  enable  a  designer  to  carry  out  all  the  ordinary  calculations  necessary  for  the  con- 
struction of  steam  turbines,  hence  it  fills  a  want  which  is  hardly  met  by  larger  and  more 
theoretical  works. 

Numerous  tables,  curves  and  diagrams  will  be  found,  which  explain  with  remarkable  lucidity 
the  reason  why  turbine  blades  are  designed  as  they  are,  the  course  which  steam  takes  through 
turbines  of  various  types,  the  thermodynamics  of  steam  turbine  calculation,  the  influence 
of  vacuum  on  steam  consumption  of  steam  turbines,  etc.  In  a  word,  the  very  information 
which  a  designer  and  builder  of  steam  turbines  most  requires.  The  book  is  divided  into 
parts  as  follows:  1.  Introduction.  2.  General  remarks  on  the  design  of  a  turbine  installa- 
tion. 3.  The  calculation  of  steam  turbines.  4.  Turbine  design.  5.  Shafting  and  pro- 
pellers. 6.  Condensing  plant.  7.  Arrangement  of  turbines.  8.  General  remarks  on  the 
arrangement  of  steam  turbines  in  steamers.  9.  Turbine-driven  auxiliaries.  10.  Tables. 
Large  octavo.  214  pages.  Fully  illustrated  and  containing  18  tables.  Including  an  entropy 
chart.  Price,  net $3.50 

WATCH  MAKING 

WATCHMAKER'S   HANDBOOK.     By  CLAUDIUS  SAUNIER. 

This  famous  work  has  now  reached  its  seventh  edition  and  there  is  no  work  issued  that  can 
compare  to  it  for  clearness  and  completeness.  It  contains  498  pages  and  is  intended  as  a 
workshop  companion  for  those  engaged  in  Watch-making  and  allied  Mechanical  Arts.  Nearly 
250  engravings  and  fourteen  plates  are  included.  Price  ...  -  ....  $3.00 


29 


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